With the Losi conversion, the Slipperential requires about 1mm of shimming under the motor and diff bulks to allow the 46mm spur and adjustment nut to clear. It is a drop-in fit with our Losi motor mount. No other modifications are required. :)

for the XRAY XB8EC, Can we reuse the centre mount bearings? Thanks. Mine is on the way now! w00t!

8T ? again
 

Forgot to say that i have the tekno v3 conversion do i still need to shim that set-up or just get your mount to be able to drop right in.

Yes, you can re-use your xb8 bearings - should be a drop in fit in this car as well.
When using my mount on a Losi, there are no mods needed. This should apply to the Tekno chassis as well. At the most, a small amount fo shimming would be needed under the cd bulks for nut/thrust bearing clearance.
If using mechanical brakes with a Losi(or any other car), both brake levers must be located above the center diff top plate, as the slipper occupies the space "over the diff cup" where some brake levers often go(some cars have both on top anyway, like AE - others have one above and one below the cd top plate).

Hey Mike, got a chance to start playing with the slipperential this weekend and I have to say I was impressed. What kind of temps should I be seeing on this thing?

Temps will vary with various factors. High slip settings will obviously generate more heat(and the heavier the vehicle, the higher the heat potential as well). It should keep itself fairly cool with any usable amount of slip - I don't think temps will ever really be an issue(it does cool itself in use with the small fins built onto the slipper-side cap). If it slips so much that forward motion is an issue, I would expect higher temps, but this scenario wouldn't make sense in practice. Have you temp'd it after a run?

Yes on a medium too slightly loose surface, medim/large track that is fairly high speed. I ran a few times making adjustments until I liked the feel. After a 10 minute run I measured 110 too 125 deg F on the outside metal parts of the diff. The air temp was in the mid to high 70's.

Perfectly normal and acceptable temps. The center diff in my Losi truggy would routinely be 150-165 after a run......without a slipperential - the heat was generated mostly by the drive shafts rubbing inside the drive cups(front was always very hot due to the angle). The Slipperential cools itself pretty well - unless your slipping it halfway around the track, temps should not become an issue at all( and if you have to slip the slipper halfway around the track, you are probably running too much power to begin with). :)

OK thanks that what I was thinking (never temped a stock diff). Just wanted to know if it was normal. Great engineering effort on this thing, works very well.

Glad you like it! :)

Mike, Are you still planning on offering shim kits for the slipperential?

Will other outdrive cups work in the slipperential? In other words will a stock Losi outdrive work in the slipperential? The outdrives on mine are junk. And I would really like to use it this weekend. Just wondering if anyone has tried something.

I actually cut half a bearing n use it as a spacer better than shimming.

Yes, we plan to offer shim kits - have some Orings coming to try out(quick, inexpensive option), but will make shims if they don't work out.

I would like some pics of where and how to shim.. I don't have one yet! But for sure I will! I'm new to the 1/8 th scale E thing... Just gettind my Losi 2.0 converted now! Have the losi E- conversion with the Tekin Esc and motor..... Like the slipper Idea... Have them in all my 1/10 scales!!

The Losi doesn't require any shimming between the bulks - it is a drop in fit. With the losi conversion, the entire center diff assembly needs to be spaced up about 1 mm to allow the spur to clear the chassis, but no other mods are required. :)

Ok I see thanks for the lightning quick reply! I'm saving to get one.... :mdr:

i am looking at this with very keen eyes. i have a nitro converted revo with all the MMM and NEU goodies running a 5s 18.5v lipo set. i have managed to lock my clutch bell to the flywheel whilst still retaining the elektro clutch as an adaptor via a diy mod with and aluminium billet. the only slip i have now is on the tranny with those 3 shoes. can the slipperential be used as a torque split diff like in rally cars. i can dial in how much front grip i get and how much later the rear wheels get power or a % of the power? my revo is insane to say the least and at this stage the tires act more like the slipper than anything else. i feel however its only a matter of time before the drive train will fail. wil this help me and is it a drop in fir for a converted revo 3.3?

very keen. :)

I have been running the Slipperential in my RC8e since they first came out. It is a very nice unit, but there are a few things I don't like/would like to see changed:

The teflon ring inside the spur gear wears very quickly and now the spur gear runs a bit off center, making tight spots in the gear mesh. I'll have to order extra teflon rings, but it would be nice if they lasted more than 2-3 weeks before letting the spur gear get off center.

The diff outdrives are WAY too big inside for RC8 dogbones. Any reason they were made so big? Or should I ask, what brand 1/8th uses diff outdrives with that large of an inside diameter? Unfortunately, stock RC8 diff outdrives are a bit too short to work, on at least the spur gear end.

The diff outdrives are supposed to be hardenend, and I guess they are or they'd wear out in 2 runs. But after only 3-4 weeks of racing, they are showing serious wear.

As a slipper pad material, plain fiberglass works OK, but it sure changes its slip characteristics when it gets hot. Was testing done with 'normal' slipper pad materials like Rulon or Teflon?

I haven't done back to back testing vs stock center diff yet. I'll have to reuild my stock with a 46T K car plastic spur gear to keep gearing the same, and see how it feels.

Off topic, but Stealth, what receiver box do you have installed? I have been rigging up an RC8e box to fit my Mugen MBX-6 but yours looks like what I wanted from the get go.

I was thinking to order some spares for my slip diff, wat will wear out first?

Slipper plates.

Good spares to have on hand IMO. Teflon rings, Slipper pads (both are considered consumable wear items) also not a bad idea to have an extra set of outdrives and extra gaskets.

wear items
 

Stealth(and others),
The Teflon bushing is the 1st point of wear - more slip will of course yield faster wear on this item - no way around it. We sell the replacements in packs of 3 for this reason. Anything that moves in conjunction with another part will wear of course. The wear items we suggest stocking are(in order of likely importance):
Teflon bushings
gaskets(possibly o-rings as well)
diff out drives(pending new out drives will fit typical bones better and last longer, but this is still a wear item)
Slipper pads
End caps(increased shaft angle will accelerate wear here - Losi 8 front for example)

The current outdrives accomodate a 9mm dogbone ball - this allows them to be used on the HPI Savage bones(and a few 1/8 truggies) and also "works" on the more typical 8mm bone. We are working on a harder, lightened out drive version with an 8mm outdrive bore for the more typical 1/8 center shafts. "one size fits all" was the intention initially. We are working on tweaks and will continue to do so. We are working on shimming scenarios for fitment in some larger diff openings, as well as other enhancements. The product will be tweaked and updated throughout is life, as every product is. :)

It's an RC10GT2 gas truck receiver box. I made a new top cover for it out of plexiglass, from when I had it mounted on my RCM chassis. I'm back to the stock chassis, with new holes drilled to move the center diff over 3/8". The RCM chassis was awesome, except for the bodies not fitting well and not keeping the dirt out.

thx Mike

hi, do i need to loosen the screw wen i tighten the slip diff? It seems that i strip the screw holding the adjusting ring

If you are stripping the retaining screw on the adjustment nut, you are probably tightening it too much. The thrust bearing removes the twisting force from the nut in use, so it will keep its adjustment pretty well(tested it without a cinching nut, actually). You only need to "snug" the adjustment nut screw to retain the setting. If you use threadlock on it, use a very small amount. You must loosen this screw to make adjustments, and snug it back down when adjustment is complete(this is in the instructions that came with the unit and linked by brushlessboy16). :)

Yes but now I must figure a way how to remove d screw:(

The slipperdiff is between 30-40 grams more than a plastic diff/metal spur depending on the size of the spur.

Thanks Mike for doing the interview...
 

The HandyRacing crew made the trek to the iHobby Expo in Chicago two weeks ago, and we were very lucky to find Monster Mike himself manning the booth at the show. Mike is really "the MAN" - he even let us film an on-the-spot no practice or planning interview to tell us and our viewers about the Slipperential.

THANKS MUCH, Mike!

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUf4gU8fevU[/YOUTUBE]

Hmmm, I dunno how to make the YouTube block quote work I guess.
The vid is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUf4gU8fevU

If your gearing, batteries and motor are correct for your vehicle can having the slipperential too loose and slipping too much cause the battery wires to overheat and melt a little?

Definitely not!

The only thing that will overheat in that case is the actual slipper on the slipperential.
Slippers should slip then grip. If it slips too much, it will heat up rapidly & cause the slipper to fail & require replacement.

I don't believe your set up is correct.

Wire heat generally indicates that there is too much load on the motor & it's drawing a lot of amps.
Keep that going & you could potentially have a massive failure of both motor & ESC.

What motor are you running with, what gearing & in what car?

Also, are you running on grass that is half the height of your wheels? My mate did this with his MT & fried a motor & MM ESC. Initially we thought the motor wires had just gotten hot & melted the solder enough to separate, but, after fixing that & trying to run again we discovered everything was shot.

my setup is a 40 x 82 mm 2000kv motor, 4 cell A123 batteries and 14T pinion in a Muggy.

Is it a Leopard motor by chance?

You're right about your set up, it sounds just fine.

If I were you, I would try a different motor.
I heard from a guy that bought a Leopard motor (not saying yours is) & it heated up the wires & was running well within it's limit, but, it ended up frying his ESC for some reason. He has never discovered why nor has had the opportunity to run a different motor for testing on his now toasted ESC's.

Just some ideas I thought I should throw out there.

It is a leopard motor but the motor doesn't really get hot at all. I dont have the money for another motor but can possibly try it sometime in the future.

Well, funny you mention the motor never heats up, this guy's motor never did either. Just the wires.

Perhaps you have a mate that could let you try one of his motors?

If you use it & the wires don't heat up, you know where the problem lies.

Good luck with it. :smile:

Hot wires
 

Hot wires could also be caused by other issues as well. Bad solder joint, lose connection, or maybe you have a nearly invisible short some place. Make youself a list of possible causes and go through your entire system one by one (simplest first) until you run into the likely culprit. Swapping out equipment may not always be the most viable solution, but it is the easiest way to eliminate components one by one as the problem. If you try another motor and things still heat up, than the motor is likely not your faulty link in the chain.

I dont have the money for another motor :( I can go through and look for bad solder joints though.