http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...2s_split21.jpg

The third lipo I have splitting those 2 3S lipos will be for sale, probably to someone in Canada since I don't know if I can ship it outside of the country.

Servo blocks
 

It was an exciting race weekend, not as many MT racers showed up due to the threatening weather but the rain stayed in the clouds and the racing kept on going. The ERBE was running fantastic, I TQed and ran the fastest lap but a steering servo failure kept me from taking the win in the main so I got second place.
Three things failed on the truck this weekend, the servo stripped gears, when I took it out to know the extend of the damage, I noticed that one of the ''ears'' was broken.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_blocks2.jpg

And finally, the rear body mount brace I made with a carbon fiber rod broke. I was jumping the triple in the back stretch and while the truck is just leaving the jump, I notice a marshall in the middle of the path of my ERBE so my reflex was to apply the brakes.... in mid air :mdr: I landed very badly with the back of the truck hitting the ground first. That is when I broke the brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...unt_brace3.jpg

This goes to show that a brace is needed to keep the rear body mount from flexing too much when running a rear wing. Without the brace, it might have been the body mount or even the chassis breaking. I made a new one using a spare steel P2 pushrod.

This is what I made for my steering servo after I replaced the gears and put a new upper case on it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_blocks1.jpg

These little blocks spread the tension of the screws and nuts I use evenly and keeps the servo case from breaking.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_blocks3.jpg

Too bad to hear about the CF rod breaking. Indeed it proves the rear body mount flexes a fair amount...

Now you're using a steel pushrod you lost some weight advantage, are you planning to use aluminum later on, or a thicker CF rod?
What was the diameter of the CF rod btw?

The diameter of the CF rod was 3 mm. I think the CF might just be to stiff and even if I tried a thicker rod, the same result may happen. Or if the rod doesn't have a little give into it, it might just transfer the impact to the rear shock tower and damage that area. I will run with the steel pushrod and see what happens. I am not worried about 10 grams added to the rear of the truck. I don't even think a factory driver would notice an added 10 grams of weight on a truck that is close to 12 pounds when running two 4S 3900 mah lipos :smile:

MC, thanks for posting the lipos splitting guide. I followed your guide and fixed my 3s lipo w/ a puffed cell. It was scary :)

Sure you didn't short anything out?

:P

I'm never secure at my soldering jobs, I'm always worrying, not a good self-esteem =/

i have been running a steel P2 rod as a brace for months not and have yet to have it break. The shock mount piece broke a couple times, as initially they were made of pieces from the E-revo chassis that i broke. But now i have a carbon fiber mount so that issue should be fixed. I eventually will replace the steel with a traxxas aluminum one to reduce the weight.

Yeah it's an old mod that has been working well for many Revo owners. I plan on putting a red aluminum pushrod also for weight and good looks.

Turnigy 2s1p 5000 mah 15c/20c
 

The Turnigy lipos I ordered came in today, they were very nicely packaged in individual boxes with bubble wrap, they look very good, as flat has they can be. Very well put together.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...igy_2s1p_1.jpg

Now the rumor about those batteries is that they are mislabeled as 15C/20C cells when they actually are 20C/30C cells. So since I'm a crazy French guy, the first thing I did to one of the batteries was to rip the heat shrink off to see if there was some writing on the cells that could prove they are 20C/30C. I remember that the Zippy packs I split had the C rating printed on the cells. I was hoping that the Turnigy cells would have the C rating printed on them too. The only writing I found made no sense and Googling the numbers gave no results. So I don't know if the claims of mislabeling are true.
The numbers I found were:
-ALP8650135S
+HY925110105
Is there a way to measure the C rating of a lipo battery?

Oh they better be 20-30C, I will kill HC if they're not, well, not really.

EagleTree Logger, will work, just hook it up to the battery and the ESC, and use it, and see how much it's really puttin out.

mistercrash I too got my turnagy packs today.
2 5000mah 3s 25c packs
one was perfect but in the other pack one of the cells is reversed. The cell voltages are
Total 3.65
C1 3.64
C2 -3.66
C3 3.65

and hobbycity requires that i ship back the defective battery for replacement. AT MY EXPENSE

That is not cool. I checked my 4 packs and they are ok. I'm trying to figure out how the cells and connectors of this pack of yours are configured.

That really blows. Maybe you could do the repair yourself or have james do it for ya. Probably cheaper than 2-way shipping to china.

Wow, talk about an easy way to blow something up if you didn't catch it before using it.
Edit: wait wait....What does the total voltage of the pack read? Is it only the balance node that is in the wrong order?

nope the total voltage is 3.65

Probably mis-soldered.

Turnigy 2s1p 5000 mah
 

Today I found some time to put some Deans connectors on the 4 Turnigy packs. I charged them using my CellPro 10S and took one pair of them for a spin in the ERBE. The performance is very good, I don't detect any difference between those Turnigys and my 2S1P Neu 5500 mah 30C/50C packs. I did not have time to find out how long they ran before hitting the LVC which is set at 3.2 V. Maybe tomorrow. The fit in the ERBE's battery compartments is tight to say the least because of the 10 AWG wires coming out of the side corner. If you don't have those little spacers installed on the battery doors (check earlier in this thread) you will have some difficulties closing them.

Here's some numbers on the internal resistance of each cell that came from my charger after the packs were charged to 100% capacity.

Pack 1:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 2:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 3:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 4:
cell 1 = 1.8 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.7 milliohms

Am I correct in saying that these low internal resistance numbers are a good sign that these packs are truly 20C/30C? And not 15C/20C. I read somewhere that higher C rate cells have lower internal resistance.

If anyone is interested in this, I finished running the first set of Turnigys I charged up yesterday. Sorry but no total runtime for now. My LVC is set to 3.2 V and I ran the packs until it kicked in. I let the packs cool down for an hour and hooked them up to the charger to recharge them. This is what the numbers were after the charge. Next time I should hook up the CellPro to the laptop so that I don't have to type this again :lol:

Pack 1:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.5 cell2 = 1.7
mah back in 4952
Volts just after charging 8.408

Pack 4:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.7 cell2 = 1.6
mah back in 5048
Volts just after charging 8.410

What did u make those blocks out of.

If you're talking about the servo blocks, they are made out of 3 mm thick twill weaved carbon fiber.

Mmm cf holder
 

I am trying to stop smoking. I needed to do something to keep me busy so I made this carbon fiber MMM holder. Not really necessary but it looks cool. Problem is... I'm done and I want a frikkin' smoke :grrrrrr:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mm_holder1.jpg

Whatever you say kid. :mdr:

I ran the second pair of Turnigys 2S1P 5000 mah tonight and got 15 full minutes of hard running. More like a race simulation than bashing. Not bad and the power was very very good. I'll let them cool down and recharge them later tonight. Right now, I'm very happy with these batteries that I bought for $19.99 each.

That CF holder I made for the MMM did very well. The MMM didn't move. And by the way, that MMM I accidently ran on 10S a couple weeks back is still running like a champ. Go figure.

no i mean the diff blocks

ok, sorry about that. The diff blocks were made out of a piece of cutting board bought at the dollar store.

After recharging the second set of Turnigys, this is what I got for numbers.

Pack 2:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.7
mah back in 4809
Volts just after charging 8.409

Pack 3:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.6
mah back in 5025
Volts just after charging 8.410

I think I'm going to run 1 and 2 together and 3 and 4 together.

Thanks man, and can you help me with my problem. Check it out, its called diff problems

I received my new MMM yesterday. I put it on, changed the settings to the ones I like and tried it. And....... It runs just like the other one :lol: I don't like the puky green color of the motor though. I also put a Traxxas red aluminum pushrod for the rear body mount brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_new_mmm1.jpg

Anyone else do this? I have a set of Neu batteries that have rather short leads on them and it was difficult to make the connections when they exited from the side of the battery compartments so I cut the fins out of the air outlets and I route the wires out of there. I do it with all my lipos now and I like it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._channels1.jpg

Gorilla Tape mud flaps
 

It's raining outside. So I thought of making mud flaps out of Gorilla Tape and will try them out. At first glance and feel, they might be the toughest mud flaps I have tried. The hard rubber flaps I made earlier are still good, I just wanted to try something different and see if it works.

materials needed:
my mud flaps template printed on a 8.5 by 11 sheet of paper.
about 34 inches of Gorilla tape
some transparent packing tape or pieces of Scotch Tape.
straight edge
hobby knife with new blade
something to punch holes with
6 tie wraps

I started by laying two 7 inch strips of Gorilla Tape side by side, sticky side up

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps1.jpg

then I stuck four 4 inch strips side by side and perpendicular to the first 2 strips

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps2.jpg

next I put one 7 inch strip in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps3.jpg

and finally, the last 7 inch strip is split in half along it's length and stuck on either side of the last strip that I put in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps4.jpg

I taped a template with packing tape so that it wouldn't move

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps5.jpg

using my hobby knife and a straight edge, I cut on the lines of the template and the soon to be mud flap underneath.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps6.jpg

I used this simple little thing to punch holes in paper to punch the holes for the tie wraps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps8.jpg

I used a Sharpie to color the edges for a finishing touch.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps9.jpg

Here they are installed, they look kinda cool, like leather mud flaps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ud_flaps10.jpg

I had a couple PMs of people asking me about the dimension of the shafts for the Thunder Tiger center diff. Here's a pic of the shafts with the dimensions.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...16_shafts1.jpg

Cool MC, I'm adding these pics to the collection that I allready have of mine and yours....I also had a PM today about the CD as well.... for parts info...ect., it seems there is becoming a interest in this diff design, I have sent the info to Mike twice and have yet to hear anything from him...maybe at the bash, I could talk to him....

It would be cool to have someone market an 8th CD for the ERevo. But keeping the selling price under let's say $60 is quite the challenge IMHO.

One thing that I haven't discussed in this thread is weight. The total weight of the truck. Many of the parts used on the ERBE are from the nitro 3.3 version. So originally, those parts were designed for a truck that weighs 10 pounds or less. A RTR ERBE with beadlocks and a couple 4S lipos in parallel can weigh much more than 10 pounds which I think can put a lot of strain on many components that came from the 3.3. So how much does your ERBE or conversion weigh? It would be cool to see if there is a big difference between conversions and ERBEs, or if there are big differences between ERBEs and ERBEs or conversions and conversions. To seriously compare the weight of different trucks, I say to weight them without tires/wheels and without batteries because there are huge differences in weights of tires, wheels and batteries. So take off the batteries, the wheels, put back the nuts, body and body clips on and weigh the truck.

Here's the weight of my ERBE:

3352 grams or 7.39 pounds.

I got a couple LST2 diffs on ebay for cheap because I thought it would be nice to build a couple spares for my ERevo. So in the process of shaving a little off the thickness of the diff cases to have them fit in the ERevo's bulkheads, I ruined one set of cases by taking off too much. So now I have one complete spare diff built and one diff without a case. No big deal.
Looking At that case less diff I thought, I bet I could make a center diff out of it. So I did, but instead of going with threaded holes in the ring gear, I made three holes, counter sunk from the inside of the gear to secure threaded stand offs with flat head screws, the output gear will be screwed on the other end of the stand offs on the outside of the ring gear. I saw this idea somewhere but I can't find where exactly. I wish I could because I would mention the name of the person who came up with the idea of the stand offs. It was much easier to just make holes in the ring gear and not have to put M3 threads in them. Another thing I like about it is that it is actually smaller from end to end than the stock Traxxas center diff so it will be easy to position it perfectly with shims inside the tranny. And it is thin enough to use the output gear to it's full thickness, no need to sand it down on the belt sander to make it fit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd4.jpg

did you use revo output shafts? is the gear you are using from a e-revo center diff or the gear that the e-revo comes stock with?

I used the TRA5415 and TRA5416 shafts from the nitro Revo center diff. I cut them to the right length and put a hole for the pin. The gear is TRA3984X so yes it is the output gear that came with my ERevo Brushless Edition.

Sweet. I think Mike sell something very similar as an upgrade to the stock unit, a sister product to the slipperential :yes:

Really, I didn't know that, never saw it in the RCM products. If you have a link that would be swell.

One of my bearings felt very notchy in a rear axle carrier so I decided to change it and check the other ones too. My carriers were starting to show signs of wear so I decided to change them. Instead of going to the same Traxxas carriers, which I like very much, I reinstalled my RD Racing carriers I had lying around and I will run those for a while. I forgot how great they are, the suspension moves very freely but it feels really tight, by that I mean there is no slop at all. Just for the heck of it, I took the metal rings off the Traxxas carriers and press fitted them on to the RD Racing ones. They don't really need it but I wanted to see if the rings would fit and they do.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers1.jpg

This is news to me as well

Best.
Typo.
Ever.

That ment to say "should sell"...

:whistle: