Cool. I am looking forward to the results. Pictures would be cool, too!

Everything is installed. ESC programed. It's too late to go outside and test it, but I did drive it around in the house and I'm really surprised how smooth it felt. A lot less jerky then on the 9918 from what I can tell. I'm also told that the stock timing of this esc is 15* and that if I back it off to 5* I'll get more run time and even smoother throttle feel. I can't wait to try it all out.

I'm not happy with my installation however. It's all solid, but not only was I NOT able to shorten the wires, they were about 2" too short due to my large mount being all the way in the rear of the truck. I can't really change that. Also, I overheated my DEANS plugs while making sure I got dead on solder connections. Let me tell you, those twisted pair of 12GA wires on that controller cool off a 150W soldering gun in a heartbeat. I had to go buy a mini-torch kit to get it all hooked up (thats how I burnt the edges of the plugs - had to scrape off the black)

It's all tight though, and BRIGHT solder joints ;)

When I get everything looking the way I want it too (wires and stuff). I'll send you a pic.

It don't look that bad, but I know it could be a little better looking.

Mike, I may have to next order an extended Gorilla Chassis Kit to make more room, but I'm going to wait until I know it runs solid and reliable.

crjackson, if you get the motor mount everything will fight perfect. I can send you a picture of how i had mine setup if you wish.

Awesome. I can't wait to get the pictures. There are several programming options with that controller. I believe the stock timing for the micro series is set on automatic (controller optimizes timing constantly through the run). I will have to look it up to be sure. If you go for the Gorilla chassis, I recommend the extended version and the motor mount as well. The motor mount will allow you to mount the controller right next to the motor and moves the tranny down and the motor towards the rear, which really helps balance out the truck.

post it

Okay, I'll do that...

Now on to the 1st run testing....

Awful Performance
 

1st run was VERY bad, I thought I was running MadDog's turck. It cut in/out like an old Buick with a bad coil wire.

I'm charging an rx pack right now for the next attempt. If that doesn't do it, I'll throw in some extra 6-cell packs I have here and try.

After that, the only thing left is the rx box it's self. I'll put the Traxxas radio back in and see.

I mean that's the whole darn truck (electronically). One of these has to be the answer right?

I am not familiar with the old Buicks, but it sounds like BEC problems again. This controller does not have a bec, which points to the UBEC or the receiver or transmitter. Please let me know how the receiver pack works. I am thinking this will fix it. If it does, I will take up the UBEC issue with Kool Flight.

I charged up a new rx pack and tried it. Same results.

I'm charging up some fresh 6-cell packs righ now (easiest 1st at this point).

If that's not it I'll put back the Traxxas radio gear and see what happens.

That more or less seems to eliminate the UBEC as the culprit (I am glad for this, but still somewhat befuddled as to what is causing the problem). It would appear as though the radio is causing some problems now. What are you using for the main batteries? Are the batteries in your transmitter charged? Do you have another JR receiver to try?

They are JR NiCd Radio tx Pack made for the tx unit.

It's the main bat packs. I'm 99% sure. I put in some freshly charged but older 6-cell stick packs. No stuttering at all in 1st gear. No power either though. It's les power that stock Titans, but I'm hoping thats due to the packs.

In shiftig to 2nd it will cut off under load. 2nd gear isn't usable really. 1st ran very good just no power.

I think what is happening is that the bats aren't able to handle the current draw under heavy load and the esc shuts it down due to poor voltage or something. That's my best guess anyway...

I'm going to order some new (again) 7-cell packs and see what happens. I wish I knew someone around here I could just barrow for testing to be sure.

If you think of anything else let me know. If new batts don't fix the issue, then it's the rx I guess...

Low quality batteries are no good for brushless. That is for sure. It is kind of like a corvette with a 4 cylinder motor, if you know what I mean:) . It is tough to troubleshoot any further with substandard batteries. A good quality set of batteries will do wonders for any system and especially a high end brushless system. Do you have any hobby shops near you? If so, someone there may have a few decent battery packs to let you try.

Nothing really close that does electric. The one close to me only carried nitro related items. I guess I'll have to order of the internet and just wait.

Can you tell me of a place where I can order some top notch 7-cell packs w/deans installed and will overnight? I've got to get this worked out.

My next question would be, "I wonder what killed my NEW 7-cell packs"? They are GP3300's about 1 month old. They worked perfectly until the burned up controller. Could it have somehow shorted and done damage to the packs?

BTW, on the low gear run I just did, the controller was COLD, and the motor was slightly above room temps., Just thought I'd throw that in...

Where those the maxamps 3300's? or am I halucinating?


Perhaps you could give maxamps a call? or do you carry batteries Mike?

I do carry batteries. I am working on a new supplier today that will be able to supply pretty much any custom pack us monster truckers need. Give me a few minutes and I will see about getting some off to you, Charles. I will e-mail you the details if I get something worked out.

You must be halucinating...

They were SPC (Spec Point Concepts) assembled.

http://www.specpointbatteries.com/

Okay, that sound good. Let me know...

Will do. Hopefully I here something soon for you. It may be a faster option for you to buy directly from the supplier for now (as much as I would love to sell these to you, if you can get up and running faster by another means I don't blame you. - my main goal is your satisfaction!). Here is the web address: www.surgeworldwide.com

I just checked. They don't have any assembled 7-cell packs on the site that I can find. If you can get it hooked up, yell at me. As soon as I finish processing my payroll, and visiting with my accountant, I'll be on a rampage for them. I really want to confirm that this IS the problem...

Here is a picture of it before i sent it back. As you can see the esc fits right under the motor.

You also have got two brown and two black capacitors on the 9918...

Mike,

You asked what was wrong with the HV Maxx system.

I jsut got notified by Novak that the esc was defective and causing the motor and everything esle to overheat. They are sending me out a new system for it today...

HA! I didnt even notice that. I wonder if that could have been the cause of my problems :eek:



*Rant* I CANT WAIT TO GET IT BACK!!!! I wanna drive my new $1500 maxx!!

No, that won't be the reason for your problems. I just noticed it..

Just like your wheels, they are mounted the wrong way.. ;)

ya i know. I just had those on temp so i could test the suspension. Im still waiting for my wheels that im going to use (got them off ebay).

I just wanted to let you know the batteries got here and are all charged up. As others predicted, it didn't fix the problem at all, so the other batteries are probably just fine.

I disconnected the motor from the rest of the truck and it sounds like a knocking noise inside the motor when a certin load and/or rpm is reached. I even took the motor off the truck and held it in my hand and it does the same thing. I switched out radio systems and it had no effect. Since the motor was removed from the truck and gave the same result, I can only conclude that the problem is electronic or electromechanical. I'm ready to poor gas on the thing and forget about it.

What other radio system did you try? Did you also program the controller before you tried to use it? I don’t blame you for wanting to burn the thing up, but it must be something we are missing. Also, I don’t quite understand the motor knock you described. Is it a rough spot in the bearing or does it seem like something else?

Mike, I answered by email. For the benifit of others reading, I'll reply here as well.

Traxxas stock radio system

Yes, I programed the controller many times

The knock is internal. It sounds like something on the armature is expanding when the rpms increase, and then knocking against the winding cores. It happens with the motor out of the truck and being held in your hand. I knocks so hard, you must hang on tight or it will jump out of your hand.

It does not feel like a bearing. The rotation of the armature is smooth when turned by hand, and at low rpms.

Also the motor has no power. It's very weak.

Sounds like this motor lost the rotor(came unglued from the shaft).

Mike,

The package is on the way overnight air. You will have it tomorrow. I sent the UPS tracking # by email.

I just saw a post on the traxxas forums with the same problem as mine! I guess im not the only one with a bad Warrior or something else is coming into effect :s

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...hreadid=273300

My HV-MAXX just came back from NOVAK. The tech report said it also had sensor problems. They sent a whole new system.

It's nice to be able to drive the thing again. Finally some good news. It's runs great...

Do you have any news on whats going on? Does the hv-maxx work flawlessly, and your other brushless setups kept breaking down?

The Novak broke down first. The jury is still out on the cause of the other system breakdowns. The BK/Feigao systems are at least as reliable as the Novaks and BK has covered any troubled setups (only 3 so far).

The NOVAK had a factory defect w/esc. It acts totally different now, and it's running great. It's no where near as powerful as the Feigao setup.

The second system has so far been found to have motor problems, and the controller was thermaled but unsure if the controller got damaged. The controller is still being checked out, the motor will be repaired or replaced.

The third system had a crappy solder job done by yours truely. I don't think that caused the issue, but it didn't help any. It's still being checked out.

Mike,

I've been out of the loop for a while with medical problems and business problems. If you ever have a $1.8 million dollar loss, you'll understand how that can cause medical problems.

I was just wondering if you ever figured out what the problem was on Madd Dogs system. I hate not knowing.

I've never even had a chance to reassemble my system yet. I'm hoping to do that in the next couple of weeks.

I can't remember if you tested the new setup you sent me or not. I remember you were going to, and I was wondering how it ran in your setup. I can't wait to get it all back together again.

Thanks for all your help.

I replaced Mad Dogs system. BK said it was damaged (crash?) somehow. I did test your system before I sent it back to you. It is simpoly plug and play now. Let me know how you like it when you get it hooked up.

I wish you the best with your business and medical situation as well. Hopefully, I never experience this type of misfortune!

Thanks Mike!

I attempted to get it running, but i couldnt get it to program or even make a noise at that. But ive been really busy since i tried it last and i havent tried messing around with it yet so once i have some more time to see whats going on im not sure if it was me or the controller.

I tested your system before I sent it back to you as well (it was new, so I simply programmed it and quickly tested it for operation).

OK i got it to work. After messing around it turned out the receiver went bad. My guess is it sat for a while in the garage and probably got wet or something. I through in a new one in and it worked without any problems!

Thanks Mike!