custom shafts
 

hi all/neil...silver steel is ground stock (to a fine finnish) nice and straight and has a bit of carbon content so it can be hardened when machining is complete. it's available in 4,5,6,8 mm etc and its 8.00mm dead on so bearings fit sweet :yes: hmmm...

On that vain/note, I looked up the bevel gears- they are 15 & 18 tooth, probably Mod 1 though no real way of confirming that at present (might be able to compare it to a mod 1 pinion gear from my old emaxx tranny- the 1st gear pinion on the input shaft). Now, if I do some digging I might turn up something suitable, so who knows, might be able to bullet proof the TXT-1 drivetrain just like the savy and maxx...

On a seperate note, I have my Kershaw, hobbycity and ebay (tranny parts) orders inbound; the fecking Turnigy servo that was out of stock when I ordered just came back in stock- 2 days after I decided to go ahead and order anyway. Nay bother, I'll get it next month, just annoying really...

module
 

hi all/neil...well its like this if the 18t gear is around 20mm daim (at the large end) then its p.c.d will be around 18mm, p.c.d is around halfway between the top and bottom of the tooth, so to find the mod we divide the number of teeth by the p.c.d, so no prizes for coming up with the answer of 1 :intello:.

would be good to bullet proof the diffs but i have seen others who have mm combo in there txt-1 so must be ok as long as you're not landing big air jumps with the throttle open. :whistle:

Alrighty then, pictures:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan52.jpg

Thats the Hobbycity Flightmax 5000mah 40c 5s lipos, and a butt load of the EC5 connectors. Im liking the connectors so far- quite stiff, but a nice positive action to push them together & then pull them apart. Also easy to solder & assemble. So far the lipos have only been charged & balanced, no runtime yet, but we'll see what happens in the next ~3 weeks I have off (may rig up and adaptor so I can use them on the Gmaxx).

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan53.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan54.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan55.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan56.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan57.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan58.jpg

XTM Mammoth 1/8 shell. Based on the F350, looks the mutts nuts, and fits like a glove over the extended TXT-1. For $35, its a bargain too.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan59.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan60.jpg

In case you're wondering about size, the XTM shell swallows the t-maxx shell and TXT-1 shell whole, its rather quite massive and looks silly even on my Gmaxx; definately only for BIG trucks... :mdr:

It's huge! (That's what she said....)

Looks great though. Ever consider using some wider axles, something like Kyosho Twin Force axles (I think those are wider)? Might be better for your servos so they wouldn't have to swing those heavy tires with them so far from the knuckle's pivot point.

Thank you Neil, for not posting pictures of the following:

The tracking # on your monitor.

The mail truck arriving.

The postman walking to your doorstep.

The box itself (at least 3 angles).

Opening the box.

Just want you to know, this doesn't go unnoticed, and thank you.

Looks BEEFCAKE!

Weight Gain 4000 is helpin'me bulk up :lol:

Ah that Mammoth body is nice - I've got one or two laying around for my Savage. But as you may have noticed it is quite thin, so when it's mounted make sure to use body washers! Otherwise it tears easily...

shoo-goo and drywall tape!

Not man-goo then? :whistle:

I have concidered wider axles yes- RC4WD.com sell aluminum Madforce axles that I've been eyeing up for a long time- they are about 14" wide I think, so they would give me roughly the same width I have now, only without having to use 2 sets of widers. $99 an axle which isnt that bad really, just have to find some donar original axles to get the diffs/ dogbones/ knuckles from- or buy new parts from the re-released Madforce..

I have noticed the shell is a bit thin yeah, I have drywall tape actually, will just need to pickup some shoe-goo or something similar; just thinking about a paint job at the moment, really have no idea what to do besides a chrome grill & bumper areas.

In the mean time, I've hashed out a plan for mounting the tranny- its so small compared to the 3906 version that the normal method of using L shaped brackets would look a bit messy, like having a shelf sat inside the chassis rails. Instead, gonna do something much like this:

**insert picture here if I can ever find it again**

The tranny is mounted to the centre skid using 4 standoffs, like its on stilts essentially. What I will do is use a sheet of metal or lexan between the centre skid and underside of the chassis ( to replace those little plastic spacers ), then mount the standoffs to that- saves hacking about my lovely NewEra centre skid.

hi all...neil that body looks good and well in proportion to the wheel arches and the front width, just cant help noticing the bad front body mounting.
just a small hill for you to climb.....looks great neil.

Aye, body posts at the front are just a tad rearwards of where they need to be ideally. I think a little bit of magic involving some spare rod ends & tie rods, and the alloy posts that detach from their base will solve the problem- I'll keep everyone posted.

Nostaglia time now:-

10 points if anyone can name the following truck without cheating (no right clicking to see the file name):

http://www.myrcmt.com/review/hebdr/wheels2.jpg

Looks a little bit familiar doesnt it, a bit like this?... :wink:

Well, small update for your entertainment; ~4 hours work later and we have this to show for my efforts:


http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan62.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan63.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan61.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan64.jpg

Now the front bodyposts will stick up through the hood (bonnet to us Brits) instead of the windscreen.

I have also enlisted the Candyman to make me some tranny mounts- basically gonna be like 4 legs under the tranny (stock mounting points), which will in turn be mounted to a plate which goes above the center skid, mounted to the bottom of either chassis plate (where the little plastic standoffs are currently). If you understood that you're doing well... :mdr:

In the mean time, it doesn look like I can use the stock lipo tray or electronics plate either- the motor will stick up too high; blasted traxxas designed the new tranny in such a way that the spur is offset too much to one side to have the tranny mounted low down within the rails, so the only option is to mount it higher for clearence. No biggie- wont be too long and I'll this thing up & running and ready for a test run :)

Jealous! I'm just itching to start a new build but have several that need odds and ends. Maybe next year:oh:

looks good neil, do you guys also call the trunk of a car the boot? what do ya call the bed? lol

Aye, trunk > boot. As for the bed, I think its still called that in the UK usually, though you dont see too many true pickups as such- might often just refer to it as 'the back of the lorry'... :lol:

Well, I just got a randsom note form Parcel force saying if I dont give them £30.68 they will hold my new 1518 motor hostage, bastards. I was expecting it, but all the same, it means that everything I saved by buying the motor during the Blackfriday special offer period, I have lost due to customs charges. Bah, humbug! :no:

was that truck the same one from RCMT? I dont remember the name for the life of me

at least you got a note:
waiting time for my maxx-steering (tower): nearly 4 weeks, no note
waiting time for my mamba monster (tower): nearly 3 weeks, no note
waiting time for my 1518 (castle): nearly 2 weeks, no note

Hebridean Black... :yes:

I feel for you JoFreak, its never nice waiting endlessly for packages with no idea if/when they will actually show up- at least if you get a randsom note like I did you know it hasnt been lost (yet). My motor will be here on tuesday,and the Candyman will post my tranny mounts on monday, though Im still waiting on the actual motor mounting plate at the moment, cant do much without that..

you could duct tape it in??? i prolly seen that on the idiot frums from time to time

:lol:

That wouldnt suprize me really, but on this occasion duct tape wont quite do the trick..

Yea maybe need to bust out some jb-weld to! note. I just realized i wrote frums lol. Is it snowing over there neil?

In some places it is, mainly up country though- down here in Devon its just bloody cold :lol:

Got my 1518 in today- very strong magnets :yes: Will post some pics up later..

hi all...nice job on the body posts neil, we had snow in thanet at the weekend but mostly melted now and yer isnt it cold, brrrr!! just been for a drive to my sisters to drop cards and stuff and is allready like a skating rink, and its only 7.00 pm. in car temp says 2.0 deg c.
power sliding around the corners was fun tho with the t.c.s off :mdr:

Indeed, I see alot of discussion about all these chelsea tractors being useless on anything other than tarmac; road tyres + 4x4 = fail, + ice = epic fail. Have you seen wheel socks? Like snow chains, only they are just an elastic fabric 'sock' that slips over the wheels, giving much greater traction on icey roads- quite good according to a few people.

Anyway, I digress- picture time:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan71.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan72.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan73.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan74.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan75.jpg

Compared to my Medusa 36-80-2000, shes only actually 1/8" longer, though somewhat fatter (~39mm without fins). Offered up to my 3905 tranny, its pretty huge, though there is easily room for a nice & wide gearing range; and thats my next task, to work out the gearing ready for next month when I order the esc and some pinions from Mike. { To the speed calculator!... }

ah....
it just dawned on me that with this beast the ESC will probably not fit in the back of my truck:oh:

anyways, still looking forward to see this great monster being finished:party:

I've been quiet recently, this is why:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan76.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan77.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan78.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan79.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan80.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan81.jpg

T.B.C.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan82.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan83.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan84.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan85.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan86.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan87.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan88.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan89.jpg

So, what we just saw was:-

1. GPM axle guard mount thingies, stripped and lightly polished with 300grit paper & wd40 :lol:
2. NewEra front and rear skids finally fitted, front skid trimmed a little to make it look... nicer.
3. Two days work on building the tranny mounts. Went through 2 or 3 design concepts before settling on the sturdiest and easiest to make option ( I have new plans for the mounting posts I had the Candyman make for me ).

If I had a better workshop, and a few nicer toys ( pillar drill/ bench drill, decent bench & vice ) it wouldnt have taken more than a few hours, but working at floor level basically on an old coffee table with a shonky vice and cordless drill makes life awkward- cant drill a hole in the correct posistion to save my life, even after marking the posistions with a centre punch & hammer. Got there in the end though- we now have a proper roller with the tranny mounted and driveshafts all hooked up- have to stretch the rubber boots a bit so they may have to be replaced with something longer or just removed.

Tranny does sit fairly high, cant be helped due to the off centre spur leaving little clearance on that side, would hit the upper rod ends otherwise, and I dont want to mount them on the outside of the chassis rails so.. Next up is the battery tray thats going up front, then some clearance work on the knuckles and axle guard thingies to increase the steering throw, before moving onto tweaking the suspension; ordered my MMM, 1/4 scale servo and a few other odds & ends like 10g wire and fixings, got an email to say they were posted today. Until the next time, stay groovy :intello:

Sweet!!! loving this build a lot Neil... can you make me one too?:lol:

good holes
 

hi neil/all...looking good neil, like the custom mounts.
just a bit of advice, allways centre punch and next time you are in the tool shop pick up a bs 1 centre drill and go through nearly all the way with it. then swap to your drill bit and it will follow the hole made better. if your using a hand drill make sure its 90 degrees to the work, lol or pack sum sandwiches and jump in your car and come to mine and use my mill :yes:. have a metal band saw here and a lathe too.
my e-maxx is still in bits, bit cold outside in the workshop atm...cold fingers :gasp: see ya neil...

oh yer and when u finnished with the 300 grit (i find 800 much better not so scratchy) rub over with 1200 wet and dry and water and i think you'll like that finnish. then u have the option to polish from there...

Angry Alien- sure, just deposite ~ $1500 in my paypal account :lol:

Chris- I was using a centre punch, Im just that crap! Some mistakes were just the drill bit wandering a little despite the punch mark, easily corrected with a tiny bit if filing, but other errors still have me scratching my head. Measured and marked the distance carefully, centre punched, drilled perfectly straight/ right angle to the surface.. yet still off somehow by a good 1-1.5mm ( holes too close together ). Im not gonna let it worry me too much as you cant see any of the mistakes unless you dismantle the truck (ignore the obvious hole in this picture as I recycled a spare bit of angle that had a few holes in it already), but I do look forward to this year as I will treat myself to some new workshop toys now that my little sister and her boyfriend have moved out of the spare room, giving me back my workshop; gonna get a proper work bench, drill press, few new metal working tools ( files and large hacksaw, junior one is no good for trimming up larger pieces of metal ) and a decent vice.

I would dearly love a small hobby shop type lathe and vertical mill, The Candyman bought some a little while back to make his life easier and its awesome some of the stuff he's produced, but I cant really justify spending £300-500 on each of those, then a load more on top for tooling; I'll just send you guys my drawings and lots of cookies :lol: :yes:

Yo neil the truck looks tough. Good job.

Neil, that looks sweet.

As far as why the holes are not true...I do a lot of drilling at work and if the chuck is not EVENLY tightened, the hole will be off just a bit..and that is just one reason. The drill press I use is older so the chuck/and or the shaft that holds the chuck is just not true anymore. Can be frustrating as hell at times.

the one thing that does help is to slow the press down a bit and drill very slowly but even that doesn't always help

Neil this build has gone blazingly fast for what it is. Its been fun to watch.

its looking good

Cheers dudes.

Will also be picking up some finer sandpaper ( or is it glasspaper... ) too yeah, thats a good tip- 300 grit aluminium oxide paper was the finest stuff available in town... :neutral:

Looks great man, can't wait to see it move...

#0000 or #000 steel wool for polished, #00 or #0 for 'satin' finish with aluminum, or good old scotchbrite. Local auto parts store should have one of those?

have you considered oven cleaner or drano for removing the anodizing? It would help in the little grooves and pits that you're missing with the sandpaper.

Also, if you're serious about polishing parts a small room and a bit of crystal meth go a long way...........................:whistle:

centre drill
 

hi all/neil...well 1.5mm aint far off considering your working by hand, sounds to me like drill wander, check your drills are nice and sharp and sounds to me like you need a centre drill, they are cheap like £3.00. place centre drill in punch mark and then start drill.
i have spaced holes using the mill and then measured them and they have been all over the place with a normal drill chuck.
to get a good hole you need to drill undersize and then ream out to size holding the ream in a collet, but this could still be around .20mm off, but as you say, you cant justify spending 100s just to drill a few holes:whistle:.
a good quality drill press can be used to mill soft stuff by using a compound table, but the drill must be a good one, or a bench top mill for the same money??
redshift is right wirewool or scotchbrite leaves a nice finnish in alloy.
never use sand/glass paper on metal, wet and dry is the one(tungsten abrasive) but the halfords stuff is useless.
personally i use scotchbrite (i get it free from a freinds workshop).
but to polish i use 1500 wet and dry then onto the polishing wheel for a mirror finnish but that is a mission and i dont usually bother.
see ya all...

Oh man I hear you... if anyone has advise on this, that'd be great. My measurements always seem to be freaking off.

But otherwise that looks great!