Yes - 23mm hexes in 24mm wheel hex.

Don't make me admit what I'm doing! :cry:

I'm using a very high-tech solution called folded over aluminum foil wrapped around the hexes to fill up the space. It's worked fine. When it has fallen out, they run without a problem, too - I didn't see any damage to the wheel hexes. If I get around to buying some aluminum tape, I'll use that and it will probably stay in better.

-brian

How is the custom front shaft holding up Brian015

No problems whatsoever - I'm very pleased so far. So I haven't needed any of the green loctite yet. :smile:

-brian

.5mm slop on each side really shouldn't be a problem with such a large hex.:yes: I'm just glad to hear someone else is doing it before I take the plunge!

Here's some aluminum tape if you can't find any anywhere else: http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl?c=88...0mm%20x%202.5M

My suggestion for the tape would be to drive through a new residential construction area and ask any HVAC (heating ventilation air conditioning) guy for a little, they'll probably give you a roll! (that's how I put racing stripes on my '84 crx- uber cool!)

Thanks for the info Harold.

I got tired of cleaning out all the dry grass that was accumulating inside my truck - around and under the center driveshafts, with so much piled up in front of the rear shock tower, it looked like I had a bird's nest in there after every run. So I made some simple side body panels from .03" lexan:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4513Small.jpg


It also serves as protection for my components. I didn't realize it until I painted these yesterday, but I had the black parts on the truck unpainted when i had my accident the other day - and you can see the dent a couple inches behind the front body clip, a dent which otherwise would have been in one of my batteries!

I'm only putting these on the sides, so I'll still have good airflow down the center of the chassis and air cooling should still be good. When I tested these out briefly last night they worked great - no junk inside!

I finally got a chance to get a video of this on 8s. Here it is:

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YJr4-wKNuhs&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YJr4-wKNuhs&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Looks like it floated over that jump. Nice car!

Thanks - I've been jumping this some more and really like how it handles. The one breakage I had came after I cartwheeled after a jump - the large inner bearing on one of the axles blew apart.

I know I'm stressing the axle bearings with the wheel extensions and heavier 5b wheels/tires (and heavier truck when it cartwheels). So I'm waiting on a part but I'm planning to add a bearing to each axle inside the carrier to bear some of the stress. I'll post pics when I get it done.

The other potential weak spot that I want to try to reinforce is where the bulkheads connect to the chassis. I bent 3mm screws there so now have 4mm screws. But with them going into plastic I just think it's a matter of time before they fail too with the added weight of this truck. So I bought some 70mm m4 bolts that I'll put through the bottom of the chassis, up through the bulkheads and bolt them to an aluminum top plate that I'll make. This will eliminate the weak spot of the screws into the plastic bulkheads and should be much stronger.

I have no desire to put $ into aluminum bulkheads, so this is my alternate fix.

Edit... I thought i had commented on your vid already... Your extended truck is jumping very nicely... Horrible when the tumble though isnt it... :) Are you going to be investing in the new castle ESC when its comes available???


i know what you mean about destroying bearings in the axles... One of mine fell apart the other day and i couldnt get the outer rim of the bearing out of the carrier! Was so annoying... how would you add another bearing without shortening the drive shaft and extending the axle? Really interested if you can come up with a fix... I was going to do a big boca bearing upgrade, but considering the stress put on the axles i would prefer to change the axle/hub bearings with cheap ones as they wont last long....

You bulkhead issue, i have realised due to the extra length of the chassis, a lot more stress is put on bearings, and more movement is found in the bulk heads. I have carried out you idea but it only last so long. Some GH Bulks are my next upgrade. Expensive, yes... keep my diffs protected and bearings free from stress, yes... I think its a necessary upgrade now... smething i have been trying to avoid in adding weight and cost.

I'm happy with the mechanical brakes on this, so I don't think I'll need the HV truck esc.

I'm planning on putting an extra bearing inside each LST2 carrier where there is now empty space - in between the two current bearings. For the front spindles it looks like only very minor shimming to get a snug fit. For the rear carriers I'm waiting on some thin-walled aluminum tubing to use between the bearing and carrier for a solid fit.

please keep us posted with some pics on how you fit the bearings... Shame there is no space in my savage knuckles for an extra bearing

I finally got a chance to weigh this thing today, and with batteries it's 18.8lbs. Slightly more than I was expecting, but I was in the ballpark. My Muggy weighs 12lbs with batteries. The chassis, wheels/tires, and extra battery cells are the biggest differences between this and that (also motor and esc are a little heavier).

I landed a jump today a little on the nose and a front spindle broke near where the turnbuckle attaches - this definitely looks like a weak spot. Anyone have any luck with aluminum LST2 spindles?

My replacement spindle lasted one week - I broke it this morning when I rolled the truck over. I realize I'm putting more strain on it with my wheel extenders, but I still can't see how it breaks so easily. I looked at them and can't see a good way to strengthen them so I ordered some RDLogics aluminum spindles. I figure, if they break, at least I'll be able to fix them somehow.

I'm also learning more about setting up the suspension on this truck. I never really had to worry about suspension set-up before - for 1/8th bashing, it wasn't a big issue for me - pretty much anything worked. For this truck, I see that the softer/lower I make the front, the better it handles at high speeds - by keeping the front wheels on the ground, it appears. I was doing some high speed runs on the soccer field again today (I stayed away from the goal-posts!) and can really see the handling improvement. When I started out with this truck, pulling the throttle all the way meant that it would be heading in a different direction than I wanted. Now, with a little throttle control, I can get it all the way pulled and going where I want.

I'm also testing out a new esc (Ice HV 160) with data-logging, so when I get this fixed and a longer run logged, I'll post data. I'm really interested in seeing what kind of current I'm pulling. On my first (shortened) test run, I only hit 90A (I'm still running 8s) - but I had the sampling rate low (2/sec). I'll use 10/sec and see if I see any higher numbers.


Edit: my mistake - it was the other spindle that broke. Maybe it was just their time. Anyway, I'm still going to give the aluminum ones a try.

I pushed this pretty hard this afternoon on the soccer fields - lots of full throttle runs. Here's the current and voltage data (geared for 50mph, lvc set at 3.2V/cell, batteries - 8s Turnigy 40c 5000mAh):

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...3110bimage.jpg

Max power: 3443Watts (= 4.617 hp)
Max current: 124.4Amps

Temps at end of run:
ambient: 80F
esc: 132F (internal), 117F (external)
motor: 160F
batteries: one 4s pack 116F
other pack (actually 2x2s) 128F

i've got a muggy with 1/2" offset hex and alu. spindles and all good so far,And another with 1/2" offset Jconcept wheels standard hex also good so far. I think yours is a bit heavier than mine,and cooler.

Nevermind.

I do think I'm pushing the limits on the LST parts with this much weight - but I have no real complaints other than these spindles. So I hope the aluminum upgrades are better - thanks for the input.

I haven't been driving my Muggy this summer - having too much fun with this one. I think it's going to feel small when I get it out again.


@Dj_Sparky - I saw your question about the motor and I guess you found it buried somewhere in this thread: Neu 1527 1.5y (825kv)

What size spur and pinion are you using?

Here's the whole gearing set-up:

Differential Ratio: 4.090909090909091
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 48
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 29.6
Motor KV: 825
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.84
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.012
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.4 : 1
Total Ratio: 9.81818 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.49 inches (545.81 mm)
Rollout: 2.19:1
Total Motor Speed: 24420 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 50.61 mph (81.3 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 825
KT constant: 1.64 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...

I tried this on 10s for the first time today. I again geared for 50mph (16t pinion) so that I could compare performance and temps to my 8s setup. Unfortunately my run was cut short by a broken pinion :cry:

I drove it hard again and used up 2.03Ah in just over 5 minutes. Comparing temps to my last logged run, it appears that both the esc and motor are running cooler.

Temps at end of (shortened) run:
ambient: 76F
esc: 105F external 118F internal
motor: 136F
batteries: 108F

The batteries I used for this were Turnigy 3600mAh 30c - and they didn't seem to have as much punch as the 40c batteries I normally use.

Here's the voltage and current plot:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...read/80210.jpg

Max current: 92.5A
Max power: 3147 W

What this tells me is that 10s is better, but I should stick with batteries with a higher current rating (although the 3600mAh 30c's should easily be capable of the currents I logged today). I'm looking at buying some new packs since my 40C 5000mAh packs are losing some capacity, and this shows me that I want to plan on running this on 10s in the future.

Just read the entire thread, very interesting and I like it!!!

As far as the spindles go, buy the al ones from New Era, best made for the lst2. I have them on mine and have no issues, run rpm arms and the stock lst2 rear hubs and stock lst2 c hubs. Stock hige pins as well.

Your idea to run long bolts thru the chassis/bulks and to a new top plate is a good one. Will give the shock tower something better to mount to as well.

I had a very similar idea to yours early in 09 and bough some al channel to make a buggy chassis using lst/muggy suspension and an 8ight center diff (have all the parts in a box ready to go). Mine was going to be shorter, to use the XTM XLB buggy body. Not sure on WB but it must have been around 16" or so.

I took my inspiration from Kershaw Designs and his mammouth based 1/6 scale buggy, he uses an Bergonzoni italian rc body, which is a bit bigger than the XLB body.

Had a look on his new site and it does not show the 1/6 scale buggy any more. Oh well, what you have done is better than his 1/5th scale anyways.

Since my buggy was going to be shorter length I had planned to use 40 series bowties on the back, and some truggy boties on the front to get the skinny tire look. Locking the center diff or going with very heavy fluid would help the front tires survive, as the skinnier tires are lighter and have less contact patch which will allow them to unload more than the rears (plus the weight transfer under acceleration) and wear faster. Alot of taping will be required, in my eyes.

I have a 10s car esc, and had planned to run esc brakes and reverse, on 10s lipo with a 1521 2y. I have a 1527 2y as well, but the kv is a bit low and figured the 1521 on 10s would be enough. I am aiming for 15lbs or less, as my tire choice is light, and I will run 10s 3200 30c lipos. I also have a 1717 castle motor and could run 6s, 5000 40c lipo. I think the 1521 on 10s would be better.

I am now rethinking the body, your exposed cage looks great, and I have made alot of tube bodies and chassis (I weld).

Look forward to seeing who your 10s setup works out.

Thank you.

Good - I'll keep the New Era spindles in mind if the RDLogics don't work out.

I think it's a good idea, too - I just have to get around to doing it! :whip:

I've been looking at some of the sand rail conversions they're doing on the Baja's and really like the look of some of them - if only I could weld.

Baja Sandrail conversions

Yeah, I'm pretty convinced that 10s is the way to go with my 1527 1.5y (that gives it 30500 rpm). I want to squeeze in an extra 2s 5000mah 40c pack to run 10s with those packs (I'll have to stack a battery). To give me more battery options, I wish my chassis were about 1/2 inch wider. Oh well, I'll make it work. :yes:

I ran this today with 10s Turnigy 5000mAh 40c. I had to gear higher since my 16t pinion was broken. Gearing set-up:

Differential Ratio: 4.090909090909091
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 48
Pinion Tooth Count: 17
Total Voltage: 37
Motor KV: 825
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.84
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.012
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.82 : 1
Total Ratio: 11.5508 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.49 inches (545.81 mm)
Rollout: 1.86:1
Total Motor Speed: 30525 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 53.78 mph (86.38 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 825
KT constant: 1.64 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...


Here's the voltage and current log:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...read/80310.jpg

Max current: 98.9Amps
Max power: 3619W

Temps at end of run:
ambient: 80F
esc: 122F (internal) 138F (external)
motor: 168F
batteries: 112-120F

So, I'd say my temps are about the same as 8s, considering I was geared slightly higher today. So much for my hope that 10s would bring my temps down. The only advantage might be battery temps were slightly lower - since I'm not pulling as much current as on 8s.

Then other thing I see is that my 5000mAh Turnigies seem to be giving out. I only used 3.97Ah today before hitting lvc.

So I need to look for some new packs - as much capacity as I can fit in this, I'll probably go with 10s, although it doesn't seem to matter.

Since you have a smooth can motor get some clip on heatsinks and some of that thermal paste. Should drop the temps at least 10f... Works for me, use them on everything I have that is not finned.

I see you have RavenRC springs too, I'm rebuilding my Muggy shocks ATM and noticed since they are dual rate, did you pay attention that they are all orientated the same way?

At one side the coils are closer (softer) and on the other more apart (stiffer). Do you think it's important that the springs are orientated the same on all 4 corners? Or it doesn't matter?

I'll go out on a limb and say it doesn't matter. The spring is going to compress the same either way - it doesn't know up from down.

I think these are great springs - they really allow me to adjust the front of my truck from stiff to soft, and I've needed that to dial in the best handling setup for different types of driving (jumping vs. flat speed).

Now, get back to rebuilding your shocks:whip:

Actually I only rebuilt one since the TiNi shaft snapped. And all the springs are already in the same order lol.

Never let a girl pick up the remote on 50% EPA!:whistle:


EDIT

It's also bent and snapped at the thread.

I've yet to break one - but I've bent them for sure.


Live and learn :lol:

Ok, I got my Al spindles today and added a bearing to each so they're ready to install when I get time. The inside diameter of the spindle where I want the bearing was about 15.85mm. So a little sanding with a mini-dremel sanding drum and they pressed right in for a snug fit.

Here's where the bearings are normally:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4647Small.jpg


Here's where the third one is:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4650Small.jpg

Inside view:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4646Small.jpg


The reason I did this is that one of my 15x21 skinny bearings blew out a while back and I wanted to try to give it a little help. I don't know how much this will help, but it was easy enough to do. For the rear carriers, I have an 18mm od, 16mm id Aluminum sleeve that I'll use to install an extra bearing.

thats a great design! 3 bearings to take the load on each axle! But how do the shafts sit in the axle? i cant see how that would work? can you post a picture from another angle

thanks buddy... i wish they did shafts and axles like that for the savage

OK, back from a week's vacation and a little time to work on this now.

Here's what I plan to do with the 70mm m4 bolts through the bulkheads. I have holes drilled up through the bulkheads for the bolts like this:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...4725bSmall.jpg

at an angle so they clear the shock tower:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...4728bSmall.jpg


Now I need to make an aluminum top plate and a skid plate for below the chassis to shield the cap head bolts sticking out. I'm using the regular holes in the chassis for these four bolts.


The m4 screws I have in the bulkheads now are doing the job, but get knocked loose from impacts - there's a lot of shear force on them with this 19lb truck. I imagine each time they get knocked loose and retightened, the plastic that's holding them is degrading (one of the eight is stripped now). I'm hoping that this is holds up much longer. :yes:

I rebuilt the rear end today with the bulkheads and m4 bolts shown in my previous post.


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4729Small.jpg



http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4730Small.jpg

The shock tower is now screwed into the 1/8" Al top plate I made with m3 screws - so I'm not relying on any screws into plastic to hold things together.

We'll see how it holds up.

I did some jumping with this today and had a few bad tumbles (the worst its had other than my soccer goal incident) and no breakages to report! My recent mods are holding up well so far.

good to hear sir! nice project also
Danny

Thank you.



Here's my other (little) summer project. I love driving 1/8 buggies but don't really like the normal buggy body. So I had a Sportwerks Mayhem roller to convert and decided on this:


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...4756bSmall.jpg


It's the Revo 2.5 Pro-line Baja bug body. Painted with pactra Lime Ice (RC303) rattle can backed with pactra backing black (RC304).

RCM motor mount, powered by MMM with Neu 1512 3d on 4s.

Winter maintenance/rebuild
 

Alright, I got this big thing out and started tearing it down to clean and rebuild. I haven't had much time to drive it since summer but am looking forward to getting it out again when the weather turns nice.

I took the front end off and started with the front diff. I checked the titanium nitride gears and saw some wear:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0686Small.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0685Small.jpg

These gears will be replaced with new ones. I'm happy that they have held up so well to 8s-10s power on a 19lb buggy. I'll see if I can shim them any better this time around, but if the next set gets me through a season of bashing like these did, I'll again be happy.



I also checked my home-made extended front center driveshaft, and it looks great - not twisting, bending, etc:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0687Small.jpg

If I have time this winter, I'll make a spare, but this one will go back in for now.

More updates to follow as I have time to tear down and rebuild.

I'm still rebuilding the front end. Today I rebuilt the shocks. I did something that mistercrash suggested when he was building his XXL - I put a thin lexan piece on the shock piston covering 10 of the 24 holes (imitating the traxxas variable damping kit). I've found I need to adjust the front shock pre-load a lot depending on whether I'm jumping (harder) or doing speed runs (softer) to get good handling. I'm hoping this mod will minimize the amount of adjusting I need to do - it should me good damping and good rebound. I used lighter oil (20wt) and I like the way it feels. We'll see:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0695Small.jpg


Here is the front end partially rebuilt:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0697Small.jpg

I bought new Al front bulkheads in a lot of parts some time back - so I'm going with them on the front. I have my "through-bolts" on the back holding everything together and will probably stick with them.

My homemade Al shock mounts on the front have done well and have only slightly bent one of the screws holding them. There was some questions raised earlier in this thread about whether the screws would hold up - so I'm happy to report that they have.

By the lookd of the gear the pinion needs to be shimmed closer to the diff, and the diff needs to be shimmed so it pushes against the pinion more. When I build diffs I like them to feel a little "tight" they way they will wear in and not be slack. Just did a hpi bulletproof set in a gh savage bulk and they do feel a bit tight in places when you rotate them. I also use synthetic grease on those gears. Given the vay lst diffs are sealed, some gear oil or oil stabilizer could be used for lubrication. Keeping a thin layer of oil on the gears will cut down wear and drag alot. I wish the savage gears were sealed in a case like the lst...