Well, it is rounded on the sides, and has a lower area that the hinge pin goes thru, and an upper L shaped arm that the upper link attaches to. I was thinking that I can make a block out of plastic/wood that holds the hub by the lower and upper portions, as they have flat parallel sides, and it would have a cutout in the center for the rounded portion to fit. Make any sense?

Heres a link to the part and a pic: http://www.rcdirectonline.com/produc...-TRA-1952.html

Yup, you could also melt wax into it to hold it firmly stick it in the fridge and then bore it out. Since it's plastic you won't have much problem boring it, but getting it perfectly centered is going to be a problem. I am assumung that you are going to do this on a drill press. I don't know what kind of measuring tools you have but I have yet to see a drill press that is square to the spindle, so make sure to compensate for that. The vice I have is in this thread.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...highlight=vice

I also have some Delrin I could give you so you can make a jig. I don't think I would have time to make one for you, I have to go to Baton Rouge on Monday. But I could either ups it to you or if you want to meet me half way I could bring it with me.

It looks like a regular Rustler hub I have some of those. If it is then I think I might be able to whoop one up for you.

Jeff

Yes, it will be on a drill press. You would laugh if you saw me setup stuff like this.

I have an small vice that bolts to the press table. I am thinking I can make a platform with a slot in it that will hold the upper portion of the hub, and them use some material on either side of the bottom area to clamp the hun in place. The platform will hold the hub perpendicular to the endmill, and the spacers will stop the hub rotating.

I like your wax idea, but I would have to do one side at a time, remove the wayx, and them reset the hub the other way around in the wax to do the other side.

I have a way to "precisely" center the hub so that I get the bearing centered, again you would laugh if I described it.

The delrin would be handy, I cannot leave work due to family issues and lack of staff, but would gladly pay the shipping.

Believe me if you saw half the ghetto stuff I have to do. I am in the middle of R&D on a new scale and I have 2 precision blocks welded to a 3/8" thick plate. I had our welder make it for me and he just tacked it in place. One was about .5* off and I had to cut and tack it back in place then weld it across to make it stronger but when I did, everything shifted on me (as SST does). So I had to use a precision hammer to beat it back into place, precisely. So no I wouldn't laugh.

Let me know I'll cut you some blocks of Delrin in the morning. I have some that is 2" thick and is flat top and bottom. I also have 1" thick and some other sizes.

Jeff

2" would be good, as it would clear the vise I have and allow me to eyeball stuff (my precision instrument) a bit better.

And these hub carrier are actually the same as the nitro rustler/pede, a little different from the elctric 2wd rusty/pede models. 1952 is a very old traxxas number, looked funny when I 1st saw it!!

Can you use 1" Thick 2" tall? I looked this morning and all I can fine is a bunch of 1"

Jeff

Good thing you didnt' say 1" thick, 2" long... linc might have gotten confused. ;)

Yes I have seen Linc's posts that's why I worded it the way I did. :lol:

Let me know soon I have a guy on the mill right now so, I'll whoop up a couple of blocks later after he is finished. How wide is your vice?

Jeff

1x2 should work. I think the vice will go at least 2". What is the 3rd dimension?

OK, just got some parts in.

I have a pretty much off the shelf cvd option here. It does require bearings with a 6mm inner, so either go with a 6x11 as a drop in replacement, or enlarge the hub carrier to fit a 6x12.

Using these parts:

HPI 80853 70mm savvy center driveshaft (made by mip)
Mip 1488 tmaxx axle
Mip 1147 rebuild kit
stock hex drilled to 6mm inner or the tekno 12mm hex for 6mm axle?
stock tmaxx wheel drive pin trimmed slightly or a shorter pin?
revo diff outputs (drop in fit for the stampy diff, with 6mm outputs)
6mm bore drivecups, long length (will need some help identifying these)

So you end up with a seriously stong 1/8 scale size mip rear cvd setup, larger 6x12 bearings and 6mm outputs in the diff.

You are all welcome.

Pics to follow.

I have 1" in like 4' by 8' sheets, and tons of scrap in about the 12" X 12" size. Most of it is UHMW (Think cutting board material), but it should work fine for a jig. It's 1" thick so whatever dims you want I'll make for you. I'll just cut it up on the bandsaw then mill it flat so it's parallel, just let me know.

Jeff

Ok, sounds good. I will measure the vice and let you know.

Where are these pic's Pimple ?

Bite me. On second thought, keep your hands to yourself!!!

I will get some pics up when I have something pic worthy.

So I did try to open up the stock carrier with the 12mm end mill. Not easy to do without a mill, and some sort of contraption to hold the carrier.

So I ordered a set of the tekno rear hubs, cost about 10 bucks shipped. I got the .5 deg models as I really do not like alot of fixed toe in on my basher rides. I would rather they go a bit faster than turn in super tight.

The tekno carrier is big, beefy and looks really stout. Very well made part. It uses a 6x12x4 outer bearing, and a 15x10x4 inner bearing. Outer bearing size is just what we wnat to use the 6mm tmaxx axles. The inner bearing is too big, but it can be replaced with an off the shelf 6x15x5 bearing.

I did not order the bearings, as I was not sure if the maxx axle would be long enough with the 6x15x5 bearing installed, as it is 1mm longer than the bearing tekno specs. I did some measuring and we are good to go with the 6x15x5 bearing.

The tekno hub is about 12.75mm thick at the bearing area, measured from the face of the front bearing to the back of the carrier, imagine the same plane the axle rides in. Since the inner bearing is recessed into the carrier with the tekno spec-ed bearing you get about 11mm from 1 bearing face to the other. With the thicker 6x15x5 bearing in there we are looking at around 12mm. The tmaxx axle is a bit longer than that from the cvd area to the pin hole. So it looks like 1 traxxas 6mm id teflon washer will take up the slack. Perfect.

I will order the 6x15x5 bearings and some 6mm id washers.

This will increase bearing life and load holding alot, as the bearings are much bigger than the stock 5x11 turds. Traxxas really needed to step up to 6mm axles and larger sliders, the old rusty/pede stuff is way overtaxed in a heavier vehicle like this.

So total cost so far:

hpi cvd shafts $2 for a pair (super ebay sale)
tmaxx axles $8 for a pair
mip cvd parts (free)
tekno .5 deg rear hubs $10
long drive cups (free)
6x12x4 bearings (free)
6x15x5 bearis (tbd)
revo 6mm diff outputs (free)
assorted hardware (free)

So I have about 20 bucks in this, if you do not count the endmill ($7) and my time (priceless).

And I will end up with some super sturdy cvds/axles! Much bigger cvd joints and thicker shafts than the tekno or others. Hell, this stuff works on maxx and savvy trucks, should last forever on a pede 4x4, which likely weighs 4lbs less.

I will say that the front driveshafts have not worn at all. (only had about 3 packs thru it) I will leave them in untill they crap out and see if my rear solution will work in the front. I will buy the tekno hubs as it makes fitting bearings alot easier with limited machine tools.

Ok, went with these bearings: http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

Little less than 2 bucks each shipped, when I bought 4. So I am up to 24 bucks for this mod. If starting from scratch and buying everything you may get close to the cost of the tekno kit at 50-55 bucks, but this has to be stronger.

Ok, so no one cares... I guess the lack of pictures turned everyone off.

So I will pose a cvd ?:

Would like to get some other cvd options. What other mfgs make or made a maxx cvd to fit the old 2.5?

Also, if anyone is aware of a 7-74mm cvd bone let me know. It would be nice if the mfg also made a maxx cvd, but not a requirement.

I also considered drilling a new pin hole in the lst axle so I could use it w/o the spacer. But they have hardened this axle, and I doubt it would be easy.I could grind flats and use a setscrew reatined hex. Not sure if those exist as I would like to use them. Maybe someone knows of a 12mm hex that is thick and made of steel or al?

Sorry, I went with Tekno's so my interest in them has twindled. I will say this, you might want to get started on some front shafts. I totally snapped a stocker off, and I know you have more torque, then mine.

Yeah, you are right. I am thinking some tekno ft hubs, and the bearings are coming that will fit those as well as the rears. Might give the modded lst shafts a try, as the front will see less load than the rears, and I would like to use the pede wheels I have, which means the electric 2wd rears will end up on the front of the 4x4.

I will also be working on a setup for the 2wd pede. I have a big 7th scale 2wd pede based buggy thaty I run a 9l feigao on 3s. It eats driveshafts for lunch.

Sorry I wasn't able to get by and drop off the material, I'll send it when I get back. We ran into some major problems on the customers part today and didn't get out of there till 8 tonight. and we are driving back to H'town in the afternoon.

Jeff

Hey pimple- I'm pretty sure I have a pack of 4 12mm hexes with a set screw. PM me if you want them.

Have you even looked at this? (look) http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM26333&cat=31

No prob Jeff, I had a rough day as well. Just let me know what I will owe ya for shipping. Had a good time when we were chatting, we will have to catch up someday.

I did see that, but I did not really have any isses with the axle, I was ripping the inner plastic axle piece that attaches to the diff outputs.

I just picked up a set of the tekno 12mm hexes and some more m6 hubs to play with the front of this truck and the rear of the 2wd pede.

I was just drilling out the srock plastic 12mm hexes. Seemed to work fine.

Here are some pics of the tekno carrier vs the stocker:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4883.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4885.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4884.jpg

Waiting on inner bearings and this project should be done. About time, huh...

WOW, hadn't realized how Deisel the Tekno carriers were !
I will be buying a set for my Stampy rather than mucking with the PE parts or trying somthing else..

I was very impressed. After seeing them I decided they were a much better idea than fooling with the stock carriers. I figured a few comparison pics would help others decide!

Here are a few pics with everything installed.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4902.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4901.jpg

The 6x15x5 bearings fit the carrier perfectly and require 3 of the the traxxas 6mm id teflon washers to space the tmaxx axle. I put 2 on the inside of the axle and 1 on the outside.

The hpi dogbone and long cvd cup work, would be nice to have a 73-74mm long shaft and use a med length cup but this is the best I can do with off the shelf parts.

Will get the other side done and post up some results.

Looks very nice and burly strong Pimple, Good job.

I will be doing the same thing to my SLash 4x4 and to my Pede.

Thanks for doing all the leg work and posting.

No prob bondo.

Glad I could be of some help!

I will likely use lst1 cut down cvds for the front, so I can use the 2wd pede rear wheels I have hanging around. I have the tekno knuckles coming to do the front and another set of rears to do my 2wd pede. We will see if the hpi/mip cvds will work for a 2wd.

Now that I have everything I can actually drive this truck again, yay... Been sitting on the bech for too long!

Ok, so I got the rear cvds finished. They work fine. Took the truck out with a new battery I recently got, a turnigy 4500 30c hardcase.

I blew up a front driveshaft after 3 mins. So back to the workbench. Waiting on the tekno front hubs then I will get to building the front driveshafts. I hope the rest of the truck is built better than the driveshafts.

i agree, i had no idea Tekno's items where that much larger.
I think i am going to sell off my PE parts to help afford the Tekno..

My only issue with the tekno cvd setup would be the size of the actual cv joint. It fits inside of a 10x15 bearing, so it must be pretty small. Even the old shiny mip cvds that I have for the 2wd pede are larger than that. That is why I used the 6mm tmaxx axles and matching cvds, they are at least 15mm wide. and the drive pin will be bigger, etc, etc.

I went ahead and bought another full set of Tekno's for my Slash 4x4. They have yet to show any signs of wear on my Pede 4x4, and it seems like people just don't have many failures. I also have the old MIP CVD's, and can say the Teknos CV seems more heavy duty. The pin is a bigger diameter, and none of those little set screws. I'll take some pics before I install them. But after running the 2400 on 4s with the big old Trenchers, I ended up with 2 messed up hex nuts, the pins stripped the inside of the hexes so Aluminum hexes are also on the way .

BTW the other things I have upgraded are my arms to RPM and both shocktowers, the front to aluminum because I had it, and I shattered the rear, so went RPM. OH, yeah I bent a shock shaft, but that was my fault. Other then that the truck has taken a beating.

Rpm parts are favorites of mine. They flex, and that is not that great for precise handling, but they survive stuff that the stockers would not.

I was a bit reluctant due to the price on the tekno parts. The hubs and carriers are very nice, glad I got them. Since the pede 4x4 can support the bigger cvds I will use them. One less thing to break.

I also plan to make a big cvd set for my 2wd pede based tube buggy. The 9l in that tears up rear driveshafts.

Yep, RPM FTW I've watched them flex, and I just know the stock stuff would have crumbled. Not sure about ever getting precise handling out of a Pede, but not knowing where it's going is part of the fun.

I just wish I had all your parts laying around, then maybe I could just throw something together , also.

But I'll be watching your 2wd progress, also. I have a Slash 2wd, with full Jato arms, and rear carriers, so it has the 10x15x4 inner bearing , I run modded Jato driveshafts and can twist them like pretzels.

I will say the mip shiny cvds I have for my 2wd pede have held up very well. Just lost a pin in one last run, I did not have heatshrink on them to save the pin if the setscrew backed out. I made a new pin out of a drill bit shank, ground a flat on it, and used heatshrink around the joint. Should be good to go. Those cvds have seen alot of motor combos, and never run anything mild.

I will say they look a bit weak for a heavy vehicle, say a full al pede or big tires. That is why i plan to use the larger cvds designed for the old maxx. Sure 6mm axles are a bit weak for 1/8 scale, but they should do fine on a 10th 2wd. Mine will likely be built out of cut down lst1 cvds, as i have a bunch.

Now, any idea where I can find a cvd cup with a 5mm hole in it? I have a few but the slotted area is not really deep enough to account for the in and out motion of a wheel cvd, these were for a center drive setup, and the cvds do not move, just rotate.

http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....8a217800d142dd What about the Tekno's? The front and rears are a little different, so maybe 1 would work better.

For my Slash driveshafts I need something about 1-1.5 inches longer then stock,I've never measured. But I guess at this point I could use the Tekno outputs, and carriers, and just mismatch the rest.

Hmm, they might work great. The rears are 1mm longer, does this mean the slotted part is longer, or the entire assy is longer and the slots are the same length? Could you check for me, I want the longer slot out of the 2, as the cvd shaft does move a fair amount in and out thru the suspension travel.

The slots appear to be the same distance from the diff side. Which means the rear would have that 1mm deeper slot.

Then that is what I want. Many thanks matey!!!

I shall have to pick up a set and get to work on the 2wd pede as well as the 4wd. I shall try to do both this week, although I can see myself being very busy at work.

Sorry, wrong dang pic,

6yrs later, i am actually finishing up this mod...

Doing some fresh research it looks like xo-1 axles and knuckles/carrier would be the best bet. Or just buy the techno setup and be done with it. My maxx/savage setup here is likely much stronger, but it may not matter.

I'll post pics, since that is the only thing you gents like....