thanks, i just wasn't sure how well the internal cutoff worked.

heh, stuff* happens :dft001:

new, much stronger design.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/2...mountv2tp2.jpg
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/6977/assemv2kt2.jpg

50lb of pressure:
<EMBED SRC="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=3560058103243309728" WIDTH="600" HEIGHT="489" PLAY="true" QUALITY="best">
</EMBED>

you going to get that milled out for a final? looking even nicer!

I think you might want some batteries that can handle more current. At 5s, the 7XL is going to need the amps. I don't think you should be looking at anything under 60amps continuous for that application.

that's my plan. don't have the $ right now, so slowly but surely, shouldn't take much longer :024:

it'll be a 5s2p pack, 96a constant / 128a burst

The 7XL takes 120-130 amps with ease on 5S. (I've got it logged with my eagletree) in acceleration it takes a solid 1500 watts for about 2 seconds. (till it reaches top speed)

Silly me, I just wasn't looking. I think the setup that you have chosen should suffice.

On that strength test in the short video.... where did you put the restraint points when calculating the test?


Also? We are machining the whole battery/middle piece out of 1 piece?(Thought it was going to be 2 piece)

what vehicle was that in? Do you think i'll over draw the lipo's then? this'll be alot lighter than monster trucks, so I'm guessing it won't pull as many amps then?

restraints were put on the 4 tabs, that get screwed to the stock chassis.

and, yep, 1 piece for the battery trays. 2 pieces all together (motor mount and battery tray)

ok, what do you guys think batterywise....

will 96a constant / 128a burst be enough for a 7xl in this car?

and as for balancers.. I just read the thread about the eos 7i lba6 balancer here: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3971
it somewhat cleared up alot of questions i had about lipo.

questions:
can the Smart Balancer & Guard 505 balancers balance without being hooked up to the charger? do i just put a load on the charge input? or do i just plug it into the battery and it does it's thing?

would it be better to just get two lba10's, networked, and get a charger capable of charging 10s packs, and charge them wired in series?

would two lba10's networked work if I charged the packs seperatly, with my two 109's? if they're running off the same power supply?

help me make sure I'm doing the right thing. what would you guys decide if you were in my shoes?

You might want to look into a Xtrema. It charges 10S. And no, you can't balance them together but charge them seperated I don't think.

I think you will be fine on those batts. You aren't drag racing so the current spikes won't be that bad I don't think. Once you are up to speed I think you will be well within the limits of the batts... wild guess would be 50-60A.

I also think that battery setup should be fine.

You can use the Smart Guard 505 with it connected only to the battery. I'm using that balancer with my batteries now, and since you can only charge up to 3amps with it between the battery and charger, I am charging with it separated so I can charge at higher rates.

You could use two LBA10s networked together, but as has been stated you can't charge them on two different chargers.
What you could do is get two SM505s and charge each battery separately on your 109s. That would end up being the least expensive balancer setup.

Or you could just use the 2 LBA10s seperate of each other for charging and then simply network them together after the batteries are charged to balance them further.

thanks for all your help w/ this guys.. the more answers i get, the more questions i think up :eek:

new question, do you think that'd be needed? if I'm discharging the packs parralelled, and am charging with the same setups, off the same power supply, how much do you think the two packs would differ after a run? after 20 runs? this is all foreign to me =\

Instead of getting two LBA10's, why not just get one ThunderPower 10s balancer (can't recall the model number)?

The TP balancer is the TP-210V. It's $100, so it costs more than the other balancing ideas mentioned. It would only be worth it to use the TP balancer if you also have the TP-1010C charger, so the two can be linked together to help keep the packs in the best shape (and to have the safest charging station).

squee's idea would work, but two SM505s would be cheaper. I guess it just comes down to cost.

Okay, now you did it!

i was thinking about a project like this too, i was looking for a nice chassis. the serpent 960 is just a bit too expensive to use imo.. Nice, but for the few times i want to ride it, or can ride it this xr8 is perfect.

I personally would make the battery-mounts from carbon fibre. Lighter and stiffer. the 7XL is awesome on 5S, i use it too, on 5S 1P maxamps, the current draw is a tad too high, so i thought about getting another 5s1p pack to support the others a bit..

carbon fiber's could happen, if I want to spend that much money on this.. I don't have all that much to spend right now, that's why this is such a slow progressing thread =\

I just read about the neu motors, and I'm very curious about them... the 1515s will fit, but what rpm am i looking for? the 1515/1.5D is 2700kv, which seems like it's the best motor for my voltage.. does the fact that these are four pole motors instead of two change my rpm range? ideas?

No rpm is rpm... so you want to still match the kv to your speed goals. These motors are very nice. The batteries and speedos like them better than the chinese motors...

4 pole motors are normally know for their higher torque. So power/rpm wise..

I took the Neu 1515 that does 2200rpm/v. which should be more than okay on 5S lipo..

ok, so I got the controller and motor..
went with a neu 1512/2.5d smooth canned motor.
i also got 16, 18, and 20 toothed pinions. the 20tooth doesn't fit on the shaft.. just a hair too small, so I'll have to file it out a little bit. but.. with the 20tooth on, it just BARELY will work w/ the stock 49t spur (1st gear). rather then get even bigger pinions, I'd like to try different spurs. they make a 50t spur, but I'd like to find larger than that.. say 52-54 tooth spurs? needs to be nylon/plastic, and needs to be M1. the mounting configuration doesn't really matter, because it will be very easy to adapt to the car. the quark controller is fairly big. I can set it down right where the tank used to be, but it doesn't sit flat then because of a plastic mounting piece.. so i've got it laying across the chassis, but it's VERY close to the brake servo and the center belt.. I may make a quick shim so it will fit lengthwise. I'm hoping to get this running sometime this week.. I still need a steering servo, and ubec.. as well as the lipos.. I got a good deal on a laptop, so the lipo's will have to wait another 2 weeks or so. I'll run my 2400's until then.. and for right now, it only looks fast :) I'll get pictures once I get the servos, and ubec, and have it all ready to go.

eh.. so anyone want to point out some larger M1 spur gears for me?

HPI makes a 52T plastic gear... I don't recall what type gears fit your car..

Yes, there are 52 spurs for the savage. GPM makes them from delrin (cnc'ed)

The Monster GT spur gears are also mod1, and go up to 52t:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ur&FVPROFIL=++

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5638/imag0129jo7.jpg
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/8854/imag0128zu5.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/134/imag0127lu9.jpg

got ubec, body, and 52t spur gear (thanks metalman :) ) on the way. aaany day now.

Glad I could help :). I got that 52t spur a while back and used it on the center slipper clutch using Revo slipper components. All I had to do was bore 3 of the holes on the gear to 5mm, and it fit PERFECTLY onto the Revo slipper clutch plate thing.

ever so close..

"workspace" is kind of cluttered, and camera needs help, but here's where i'm at:
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4773/imag0131cw4.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/962/imag0135ed9.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8080/imag0134bs1.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2156/imag0136yu2.jpg

still need to:
fasten the controller and ubec
drill/tap the battery strap holes
double check my connections
drill 4 holes to mount the fan
triple check my connections
paint/mount the body
and then learn all the features of my XS3 all over again.

In one word..

Awesome..

You need some better cells to get the voltage up at higher loads.

SAA-WEEEET!!!!!!

You gotta let us know when you plan to run this thing. I live so close I would love to see it.

It looking good. I am glad I could help on this project, it looks insane. I can't wait to see some videos. I think you should drive down by me ,and forget JHautz :) . Keep us updates. When you getting your lipolys?

-Joe

my paint skills need work lol.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6350/imag0132rv0.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/701/imag0134gz7.jpg

NICE :) It doesnt look as bad as I expected

You should quit smoking..

:028:

but seriously.. i know.

Tar is for the road.. not for your longs.. LOL

You mean lungs?

Yeah squee, that's what i mean.. it's hard enough to be a foreigner already. But appearantly you understand it.

Thanks for being so accurate. Try answering in Dutch the next time..

http://041206.com/xr8.mov

last step: charge batts.