I didn't know the brushless had a filter. Is that some new technology?
Does it make it run cooler?

I think he may be referring to his Nitro vehicle... Unless you were being facetious?

Facetious?!?! well your Ducialam! SEE! I can make up big words too!

Hmm i just heard that you do not need to balence all the tiem. That its only occasionally. Is that true? If thats true then it makes sense that the balencer doesnt help the pack charge, it only helps stabalize so then you remove the balenver adn then allow it to charge directily. But im hearing diff stuff from you guys.

The reason why you're hearing different responses as to how often you should balance your pack is because there is no 100% correct answer. Balancing is only needed when the cells go out of balance. The question is - How do you know when the cells are out of balance? The answer - By hooking up a balancer and seeing if it does anything...

In other words, it is best to use a balancer all the time, as otherwise it is difficult to tell when your battery needs balancing.

It's not made-up; it means "tongue-in-cheek", humorous. It's actually a fairly common word. ;)

You probably didn't understand it because it was spelled right! :005: :dft012:

OK, maybe that was a bit harsh... Bad Brian! :007:

And MM is right: You don't need to balance every time, but that's like saying you don't need to change your car oil exactly at 3,000 miles. It won't hurt, but it could help.

Good analogy! Except that my dad doesn't change his oil anywhere near 3,000 miles, probably closer to 10-15,000+ miles. So in that sense it might not be so valid, but still works well as a concept.

Yeah, truth to tell, I change my oil at about 5,000 miles. The 3,000 figure is just the manufacturer recommended interval (which is probably just a ploy to part us from more of our hard-earned cash, which could be better used to buy R/C stuff.:))

So therefore my apache wont cant charge with the balencer hooked up? It stops charging/balencing when they are balenced? Should i balence both packs at same time since i am putting them both in series?

Basically, if you are runnign them in series, then it's a good idea charging and balancing in series as well. I balance mine before i charge. But i run maxamps :)

i contacted the seller of the balencer. He says that the green means fully charged. also, woudl it really matter if one pack is drained more than the other? hte lvc woudl detect the lowest volt pack and cut it off before the voltage drops too much.

Also, would a rd quickturn work on a e-revo? i was thinking bout making one for my e-maxx center drive shafts.

If you are running both packs in series, then you would have reduced runtime as the pack with less charge will dump first.

The quickturn will work, except if you are using the motor brake, only the back wheels will brake. Also, if you still have reverse, only the back tires will drive.

lol, aint got much choices with these volts. Gotta do series. Tried out my limn packs for first time, killer packs! just as much power as the 16 cells. I like how its SOO much lighter, when it does jumps, i dont worry about breakign stuff. Prob is the brake fade is a bithc. Im tired of my undebpendable nitro. When i drive next year, ima race electric all the wya. The major problem is the overkil with the torque. I wheelie too much. How would u suggest solving this? Also, my driveshafts cant take that type of abuse. ANy alternatives?

Yea. I made one and love it. It handles great.

made one...what? race revo?

Made a oneway...

A center diff would help unload the rear on strong takeoff. Or, just use finer throttle control. You could also play with the settings in the Quark so it doesn't send as much power to the motor at once. This might also help your runtime.

I don't think he has a Quark...

nope 9920.

Oops, nevermind about the settings then.

The centerdiff would help, but you're probably not using the stock Revo tranny either.

So, that leaves you with better throttle control...

Yea...Learn how to drive...

lol, even god cant help me now! :(

:005:

You all believe electric could own nitro on tracks right? should i sell out all my nitro and focus on electric? What i hate is the fragility of of electric. I want a setup which i can bash like crazy and not worry about damage. I can confidently take my revo off a 9ft jump but not my electric one.

Why can't you bash the electrics? A LOT of it depends on how the conversion was done. Was it just thrown together or was it done with structural integrity in mind? If both versions of the same vehicle are about the same weight, then it shouldn't matter.

Usually, when I do a conversion, I look at how the Nitro version is set up to see what considerations were made for chassis flex, stress points, etc and try to duplicate those (or at least compensate) in the electric version.

You can't forget; the companies who make these trucks have a lot of R&D invested in it. I'm sure they have tried different designs before releasing the one you see on the shelves. We are simply slapping an electric motor (and other parts) in there with basically no testing phase to find weak spots. Plus, they are designed to handle Nitro power, not electric, so you need to specifically strengthen parts that are stressed from the extra power.

Well said Brian. Being prepared for the power is best. How you set it up takes some thinking. Months ago, I would nto take my truck off a 9 ft jump. I would now, but I also redesigned some things and thought about it, did a little testing as well. Took it from there! I got coming what I need for my truck to handle this type of bashing or racing. I found that when I secured things, they would fall off in a jump. So I would go back and redo it better and better. Now I can take my truck off jsut about any jump I want(with limitations of course) with no issues on bad landings.

Don't get me wrong, I would not attempt to jump my garage or anything like that, but a 9 ft jump? Hmm, I think my truck would hold up and I would definitly do it!

Im confident on teh conversion, what im not confident is in the strenght of esc! the first backflip i did fried my first 9920 :(. Dunno how. Mike was clueless to why. It wasn't really "FRIED" cuz it wasnt burnt or smelled. But it did cogg like crazy. Scared somethign hapen will happen like this again.

Sounds like a defective controller to me.

But it was a bk. :D

oh great, my new one is broken tOO! i tried to turn it on and see if the batt still had same punch from yesterday. I only ran for a couple minutes yesterday, never fully drained packs. NOw when i accelrate, the thing would just STOP and then go. I thought it might be teh diff (i just installled new ones cuz old one got ripped up). So i put it down to test one mroe time but this tiem it went CRAZY. IT reveresed full thorttle and wouldnt stopp. Made a nice hole in wall. Ima reprogram but this is realy weird. Have u ever heard of somethign like this?
PS, i got spektrum so i doubt its radio. Rceiver antenna is flawless.

With spektrum if it looses signal it will reverse at wide open throttle.
What lvc do you have and was it hooked up.

ya lvc was hooked up. WAIT u telling me lvc did that? thats retarted, that'll drain teh bats even more!
http://www.boomboombatteries.com/Sea...ults.asp?Cat=5

The BK ESCs are nice power-wise, but I don't like to trust a simple heatshrink shroud to protect against shorts. When I had my 20120, I made a little tray with foam padding on the bottom and sides to pad it and to provide insulation.

If you have the full spektrum radio, you set the failsafe positions of the steering and throttle during the binding process.

The LVC should put the ESC into a neutral condition if it senses the batteries are getting too low. Is there some type of tiny adjustment dial on it anywhere to set the neutral output? Generally, the receiver puts out a 2ms signal at full throttle, 1ms at full brake/reverse, and 1.5ms at neutral. When the batts get too low, the LVC interrupts the throttle signal and outputs a neutral signal instead. If not, the ESC is going to interpret that as "go". You could verify this with an oscilloscope, but not too many people have those.

If he has a LVC made for airplanes, then it will go into wide-open reverse, like there have been reports of the LiSaver doing. With airplanes, there is no reverse or brakes, and neutral is with the throttle stick all the way down. To a car ESC, this throttle setting is full reverse.

Yikes! It sounds like there should some kind of notice or warning or something on the item. That is not a desirable feature for a truck!

WTF?!?!? Alos my ps keep cycling! and now it wont start up at all. WTF?!?! My balencer is red on the 2 cels, but its also BLINKING green. IS it an eror? dont tell me the voltage is too low!

Its working now, but should i run my li-saver ever agin?

Your li saver is for cut off and i would use it until you can get one for a car.....Mike has them.....just watch you time and shut down before cut off

Ya..but i dont wnat it going fullthortle in reverse everytiem power gets low!

what you could do is to program the controller only for forward en brake.