We will be waiting for some good results Artur! :027:

Yeah, I can see wire length of the feedback path being a problem. Probably would have to resort to some type of balanced and/or shielded feedback cable. I figured there would be a way to use one brains board, and then stack power boards under it to get the capacity needed.

Getting close to the testing stage...

Mamba duplex Side A and Side B.

New Caps, extra heatsinks in between boards, transorb and couple mods ESC.

CC change their design a little bit, painful to take apart and solder quality looks not as good as used to be...

Plan to finish by sunday and start testing next week.

SWEET! Are you going to make any software changes while you're at it? ;) J/K.

Awesome job! Looks better than some other manufactured ESCs. Hopefully it works once it's all put together.

Artur, good luck with the testing. If all goes well, you're going to have to come up with a price for the mod. LOL

DANG! Artur, that is smokin! Those are some monster caps on that thing... I LIKE IT! :004:

What kind of current rating are you giving it? 180A?

BTW, I still have the brains of my burnt Quark, it has some residue on it from the fire, but it might still work. You want it?

Thank You,

To Brian: I do not have tools yet to change software inside ESC, maybe later.

To AAngel: On success I will publish step-by-step process. Otherwise depends on demand. Maybe even get some parts from CC...

To Zeropointbug: Ratings will come later after testing, Blown ESC's are always welcome. :)

Uh, oh. I feel a digikey order coming on. LOL

Well, final touch side A and side B.

Video (7.91Mb) from first run. So far no problems.

The brakes certainly work well, and no sign what so ever of cogging- even though it isnt hooked up to a drive train obviously but still. Whats the next test- 12 cells I guess.

Q. Did you ever findout how manu cells a HvMaxx will run without going pop? 18 cells would certainly be a nice bit of speed, provided the motor bearing could hold up.....

Nice work!

Now why can't Castle do with the MMM in over a year what Artur has done single handedly in... a month??

Because they dont have Arthur working for them! The man is a genious....

Wow, and it still looks good! I think my Revo could use one of these...

Wow, looks great Artur! It seems to run very smooth as well. Is that you braking? I hope? :005: Should run nice and cool with dual power boards and those large caps on there, very nice work man. Congrats!

Wait till you see the Quark controller I'm rigging up. ;)

Couple tests here and there and then I will mail it to Mike for full-scale testing...

My HV-Maxx controller start losing control with 16 cells. I tried to modify it, but end up blowing internal caps.

P.S. Thank you everyone for comments, we will see how it works under the load.

Bummer. Im sure Mike will give the MM a thorough work out though. If it does go well, you'll have to think of a name for it...

There are updates to this thread here

I'm modding my mamba max as per your instructions. I'm not sure which TVS to order. Could you post a digi-key part number for the TVS you used in the stage 1 mod.

Sorry for late response, currently I am far from internet (vacation until Oct.10) but here is link for parts.

Have a good one Artur!

Thank You Rene,
Grand Canyon fantastic place, last week was in Vegas...

By the way mod3a and mod3b is coming soon.

Mod3a 5S 300A (~500A at 25C)
Mod3b 15S 100A (~250A at 25C)

For 15S version to set voltage cut off I'm planning to use trimpot or jumpers, which one you will prefer? I am trying to use the same MM software but to make a walk around :)

The trimpot would use smaller footprint, so i would go for a trimpot.

Have fun in the GC! we had a good time in the US as well. (NY, VT)

Damn, a 5s MM capable of 300amps or more? I think Lutach has some competition.....

LOL. I won't be competing yet. The engineer is having trouble programming the ESC for car use. I can only say that the 100A controller that he sent me had the best start up compared to all my BL ESCs.

Smaller footprint yes, but trimpots tend to get dirty and then you have to consider wear over time if tuned a lot. Jumpers are bigger, but better IMO.

Thank you Brian and Rene for input,

I think, I found better way to monitor LiPo cutoff without additional trimpots or switches, only programming with Castle Creation software.
There will be some odd wiring, but that shouldn't be a problem with more then 4S LiPo. Actually, that's probably will be the only correct way to use LiPo cutoff.

And, Yes I am back from vacation.

Mod3 prototype board for MambaMax.

Mods for Quark:

Copper heatsink, assembled (temporary with alum. side panels), bottom side with taped holes for fixing inside stock housing, top view inside stock housing, same view with brains.

Details later...

Dude, I am in awe at your work...
If that doesnt keep the 125b cool, nothing will (except maybe a bucket of ice, but I dont think that would be practical). As for the new MM mod3, well, looks complicated, so knowing you it will be good- looks beefier than the prototype MMM we've just seen pictures of at anyrate.

Great work Artur!

If you need a place you can get cheap PCB's made, let me know. Same style yours are (with desired thickness of copper, painted and text printed, through metalizations) for bargain prices.

Looks like this board can house serious fetts!

That looks great Griffin! I would love for you to make me one of those clamps for my other Quark that should be here shortly (thanks to AAngel). Looks like it should bleed enough heat away from the top FET's... although, not as well as my clamp. :whistle:

You see my clamp has to be used with a custom heatsink of some sort, and well, you have seen my Mega Quark, haven't you?

it's not said that a shitload of heatsink helps cooling anything. It's the thermal connection that matters. And copper is superior to aluminum.

Not with the heat density we are dealing with. The thermal interface on the side of this one is not as wide as the one I made, which would matter more... and there seemed to be only a few degree difference between the FET clamp and the fins of the heatsink. It keeps the esc under 90F under the most stressful, over geared conditions. :yes:

I'm speechless with all the custom stuff that I see he makes.

He does make exceedingly good escs. As for heatsinks, a big one with poor connection would be the same as a small one with excellent connection I would have thought, so a big one with excellent connection too would be even better- makes sense to me anyway.

Ha ! I just sent Artur a pm. I want to be an early paying adopter this time. The humidity & temperature here is an ideal place to torture test these.

Regards,
Joe Ling

PS : still running a sacker with 5S & recently busted my 8XL. Just managed to install a 9XL from Mike with 13/46. BK12020. I want something better :cry::cry:

While a larger heatsink is nice to have, there does come a point where you don't get much increase in cooling performance. A heatsink can cool only to ambient temps and as the delta between the HS and the air gets closer, cooling rate slows down. Besides, these ESCs being anywhere from 85% to 95% efficient means that not a whole heck of a lot of power is being wasted as heat TBH. Just doing the internal mod and adding a little extra heatsinking to the Quark goes a LONG way to improve its thermal performance without sacrificing size or weight.

I think the efficiencies are between 94-97% IMO.

Yeah, I agree, the internal mod does work pretty good at getting rid of thermals... but I still don't know how/where the thermal diode is placed. Which makes me worry, if it is pushed enough, the top FET's could overheat/burn up. But it is fine for great power that we need from it... I was just saying that mine would be able to handle a much larger and heavier vehicle than a MT, really, I would be limited to the tracers in the Quarks PCB long before the FET's were to get too hot.

Thank you,

Heatsinking is a complex problem, but if you familiar in the field then you can create very efficient system.
To help out with Cu vs Al I did a quick web search and found this:
Nice pdf. collection and general info
Hint why copper is the key here, very nice and compact write-up

to zeropointbug:
I think it is very difficult to find a member on this forum who haven't seen your Quark:).

And, yes I can make you plates, no problem, especially I am working with Mike's help on this one as well.

Hyperthetical question time again:

I had a thought last night in bed (pack it in). Ignoring how good sensorless escs are these days at reducing cogging, would it be possible to use a HvMaxx brain with a more powerful powerboard. The theory being that you could run a sensored motor which is much more powerful than the Hv6.5/4.5, yet do so at higher voltage and/or amp levels. Just a random idea I had, but it would be nice if it were possible (will have to see the price on Novaks new Hv system and how powerful that is when its released in the newyear). The only downfall is that there are precious few high-powered sensored motors easily available for Rc use.

Should be possible... with some additional modding other than "simply" adding a different power board.