neil, i know i do not have any dead cells as a friend checked it on his multimeter. (i dont have one though)

BB16, if i was in the states i definitely would send you my hyperion to have a look at it, but considering im in the UK and need the lipo this weekend to run, i think i need to do it myself...

When you say the "front board" opposite the battery leads... which part do you mean? because i have battery leads on either end of my lipos which is different to all my other lipos.

I believe the damage was caused by a massive nose dive :( so i need this repaired...
Thing is, i cannot see any breaks or cracks in the solder... maybe i am not looking at the right place...
You do not by any chance have a pic you could post up? otherwise when i get home, ill post one for you to point out the area you are talking about...

Thanks for the responses guys.

Take the heatshrink off the pack, the end that does not have the wires coming out.. Check all the older joints and the board.

My board was craked and bent... which pulled one of the solder joints apart..

Reflow all of the solder joints to ensure a good connection.

i have taken the heat shrink off but i have wires coming out at either end... here are some pictures close up of either side. If you can spot something that i am completely missing, then please let me know and advice on how to sort the problem...

Thanks

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193740.jpg

In the picture below... is this metal part meant to be sticking out??? or should it be tucked in somewhere like the rest?
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15194047.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193855.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193958.jpg


I hope these pictures help... As you can see there are positive and negative wires at either end and balance leeds connecting... i cannot see any cracks in the solder or obvious breaks. Is the flap that seems to be sticking out possibly the problem??

Thank you

Josh

Hmm, it all looks okay more or less. The sticky out flap shouldnt be an issue, though Im wondering if the join it solid or not- just looks like its stamped together ( all the little dimples ). Im also looking at the other join on that end and wondering if that is solid too- might be worth doing a continuity test with the multimeter to find where the break is, though if its only intermittent it could be tricky...

OMG that looks like it was soldered by the same 5 year old kid that made my HC packs...:whip::whip::whip:

THat picture, left side, looks like a crack in the solder, hard to tell. Reflow those puppies- they look ghettooo(means alot coming from a black guy):lol:


that metal peice is where the cell's aluminum tab is attached to the copper tab for soldering

Tuck it up out of the way

i cant believe how rubbish the solder job is on this expensive hyperions!!!

BB16 i think i know what you are talking about...
should i remove the current solder? or just resolder over the top of it?

The aluminium tab... should i be soldering that back on to the copper tab or just tuck it tightly next to the copper tab?

Thanks for the help guys...

Can anyone recommend a decent, well priced multimeter?

Hi, im back again as i still have the same lipo problem.

I tried my soldering iron to reflow the solder but my iron must be rubbish as it didnt get hot enough to melt it. Tried a friends iron and the same problem...

So before i go out and buy a new iron i used a volt meter to check the cells via the balance connector...

I DIDNT GET ANY READING!!!! all my other lipos give a reading... but this wouldnt?
What does this mean? can you work out where there is a problem? what the possible culprit is?

Please get back to me asap

THANKS A LOT

Josh

Do you get voltage on the balance wires?

no i dont :(

Man, this thread just will not die...

The soldering on that pack looks like the stuff I did before I got a decent iron....

If you are not getting any reading thru the wires go directly to the cells where the wires are soldered. Isolate each cell by putting the pos probe on the pos end and the neg on the neg and check each cell. The switch your multimeter to ohms and check the continuity of the balancer wires. I have had a few balancer wires go bad...

If you may have a loose tab on one of the cells. At that point you can toss the pack of have it reconfigured to remove the bad cell (my choice).

Hope this helps.

34 pages, wow. My rc legacy.

thanks a lot mr pimp :) appreciate the help! i will isolate and check each cell separetly... hopefully ill get it dont for the weekend.

One of my small 3s 35c 3700mah lipos puffed on me big time... i thought it was weird i only got a 2 minute run time out of it, so i check it and thought that this was annoying as i now have no sets of work lipos... so i through a rock at it and it did this

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-28193603.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-28192723.jpg

^^^ That's a sweet pic. Best lipo fire pic ever. Not so much magic smoke, but a ghost fog. I see faces too... ooohhh... scarry....


That joint is a bit ugly. BB16 right on the reflow. May want to clean the flux and dirt off 1st so you don't trap any crap in the solder.

I don't think it needs more solder, looks like plenty on there. May need just a bit on the iron to get the iron to heat the joint properly if you are having trouble. I low power crap iron is not going to do the job tho.

Always check at the cell tabs where possible to check the voltages, then work your way out to see where the break is. Then go with one probe on the pack, and the other on the balance taps going down the line to see where the break is. A paper clip or small pin inserted into the tap will help if you can't get the probe in.

Bit of a repeat of other advice, but all of it was good already