I sent a link to this thread to MGM and received a similar reply:

Dear Mike,

this is no so clear. However some customers wrote to us and described similar problem. No possible test all combination of the cars/motors/gears/battery etc. - we are like, when customer help us and signalize when find problem.
We find some problem with some combination of the motor and battery. We prepare new version (suppose available from next Monday - Feb.18) without these problems. This new version have also possibility update SW in the controller via www and PC with USBCOM. This enable easy way for quick SW change when customers will find some next problem. I suppose this solve all problems which was finded in last days. :-)
I send you details during weekend.

In all cases, recommend your customer make "Automatic tuning", set "power reduce" no "cut-off", set "range of the neutral zone" > 9 or 12% (some customer set 3% and controller cannot find neutral position).
In some cases help set "Race mode", hovever this no checking battery voltage. Necessary is set min., max. and neutral throttle position by transmitter.

Best regards,
Grisa


This has been my experience with MGM all along - they are responsive to any potential issues and work to resolve any issues presented to them. :)

Thanks for looking out for us Mike, glad they could get it taken care of.

Shon

BashOn,

Thanks for that address. You had the problem with your MGM and a bit of white smoke, yes ? Mine did exactly the same. It worked find for quite some time, aside from the "lvc issue" (turns out, LVC is not the problem), and strange issues with freewheel setting. I changed it into race mode, and ran through a pack with no problems. I was heading out of town for the weekend so I charged the lipo's to a safe storage voltage and left everything disconnected. When I got back into town and topped off the batteries, I got everything all plugged in. Just before heading out to run, ppppffffffffffffftttt and a good bit of white smoke.

As it turns out, I found the controller still worked but with no BEC. I had to run it with a reciever pack or UBEC. It worked fine that way for about a week, and then it burned some fets. Bummer.

Does this mean we will all have to send in our controllers for the update? Fill us in on the details when you find out.

I have had many emails with Mgm too, and they try to be as helpful as they can (taking a little language barrier into account), and always reply promptly.

I’m not a big fan of the MGM because it is very difficult to setup. I can’t wait for the MMM. I have my system running good after 2 month of tuning. I finished 7 out of about 40 people in the sportsman class last week. I made it to the A-Main. In my heats I went 3,2,2.

Here are a few tips of what my problems were. I’m still tuning.

Problem = Braking and neutral and throttle control.
Solution= This was the big one for me. I had a hard time defining the real issues
It boils down to trigger calibration. If you have a digital radio, make sure you set the EPA to 120% throttle and 120% brake. And recalibrate you radio. Also you need to set your MGM neutral @ about 6% or 9%. And the Freewheel should be set to YES.
Don’t for get to Auto tune after changing any settings.

Problem= My MGM would cut out about haft way throttle
Solution= Set controller to reduce RPM. I had my gearing way to hi.
I’m running 6S 22.2 volt so my gearing ended up at 13/46 with a Neu 1512 2.5d
I think most peoples real problem is gearing! My MGM cut out like crazy until I got the gearing right. Also you should end up with a gearing that you set the throttle EPA back about 10% to 20%. This will help with heat build up if you are running 30 min mains like me. This will help you keep from using 100% of the available power out of your motor. Which is ok but not for long durations. Use a temp gun for this setting after a 30min run.

See link for more info
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=rc8+brushless

My understanding is that we have to send our controllers in to get the update. After the controller is updated you will be able to do future updates on your own using your PC. Per Mike's message it looks like controllers made after Feb. 18th will have this update.

A little tip. Ship USPS Priority. I went to ship UPS and it was $108! I went to the post office and shipped UPSP Priority for $18. Remember to put a customs value under $15

Yeah, UPS overseas is ridiculously expensive, I always use USPS. Sucks to have to send it in though! No ESC for a couple months, and spring right around the corner!

Damn it! I just ordered a MGM 16018 off Mike. Looks like I just lucked out on the revised edition. Oh well at least it appears MGM are quick to resolve the issue and the ability to update via USB is a great move.

Hey BashOn, did we have to put a little note on the box to explain the reason why we send it back the controller??

And what about the shipping fees when MGM will return back the controller to us?? MGM will return it for free???

The fact to put a customs value under $15 is very dengerous, because if the controler is lost in mail, you lost it....

BUT... if it's the curent fuse protection the problem in this controller, why not just use it in race mod with an external li-saver?????????

They did not say anything about return shipping. I did include a note with my address to ship it back and my email address just incase they need to contact me. Also make sure you put on the note why you sent it to them. I guess if they need payment for return shipping they will let me know.

You could certainly go with the setup you are talking about. Race mode with an external lipo cutoff. The better choice sounds like to set the controller in NiMH mode and leave the setting on cutoff (good idea jhautz). This way the MGM lipo cutoff is disabled but the over current protection is still in place.

If MGM is saying the problem is the over current kicking in to early not the LVC, then NiMH mode probably wont help the situation since NiMH just eliminates the LVC not the Over current cutoff. If the problem really is the over current, then race mode may be the only work around solution.

Good point. I guess if you used race mode and an extenal LVC you may not have the problem but I wouldn't risk it. Its a pain to send it in and wait but if your having the problem I'd say its probably worth it.

Notice how they implied that this is only a problem with some combinations (larger motor).

we tested this motor/controller/battery combination and we find this problem.
When avarage current (no peak current) go over the 105% of nominal current (current fuse start activate), can caused this mistake and controller save absurd value (and can cut off motor also).

I inquired about the return shipping costs and MGM mentioned that it will be at their own cost. We only need to pay for the shipment from us to them. Hope that helps.

Yes, thank you. I've send an email to MGM yesteday night about that, i'll wit for reply just to see if they will tell me the same thing.

But another thing about MGM vontroller, why so much guys here smoke their MGM??? Not sure if it's the curent protection or MGM is simply not much good they are suppose to be......

Look at this from BashOn, it's very frustrating!! No???

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
I had posted before that I run in NiMh mode and I really didnt know if my LVC worked correctly. I ran a test to see if my LVC would act like some are reporting on this thread. So I set it at 4 cell, and Cut-off on the ESC. Then put my ol Orion 15C 4800's and had a go. I must report it didnt cut out at WOT, and I did try to open her up alot to create this LVC, or over current protection kicking in like MGM is suggesting. It ran absolutely fine, maybe mine has newer software 3.12 I believe, bought it in Jan of this year. My gearing is conservative at 20T pinion and stock 68T spur. I'm just wondering I were to go to a 24T pinion and run it harder if it would then exhibit the same cut-out. Dont know, Just makes me wonder if the problems some are having can be fixed by a gearing change, instead of shipping it off to MGM for a possible lengthy return time, and absolutely no guarantee it will solve all the problems.