Well, I worked on the rollbar a bit more and added a bolt with a rubber stop to the top of the rollbar. The rubber stop is very close to the tranny top. If the rollbar is pressed to the point of bending, the rubber stop will come up against the tranny. Since I plan to get a CNC tranny case, this should work quite well.

I also used some steel wool and buffed the rollbar a bit like rchippie suggested and it doesn't look too bad at all. I riveted the rollbar to the back of the battery trays and the whole thing is very solid. Although it's hard to say until I take it for a test run.

Anyone want to donate a radio/receiver, Feigao 8xl, BK Warrior 9920, CNC tranny case, tranny gears, and center shafts? :)

Unfortunately, I can't do much else until tax time when I get some cash. :(

Thanks everyone for their suggestions, ideas, answers, and comments!

Brian i would bolt the rollbar to the battery trays with 3mm flat head screws instead of rivots. It will be alot stronger in a crash. Just rember to counter sink the flat head screws in the trays.

P>S>

I use to live in waterloo iowa in the eairly 90's, i trained greyhounds at the dog track there.

I was thinking of using bolts, but thought the rivets would be more than sufficient, especially since they are 3/16" rivets. The ends of the rollbar actually rest on the battery tray supports, so there isn't much shearing force on them - the rivets are just holding the rollbar from moving side to side.

Re: P.S.

I moved here from Maine about 4 years ago. My job paid for me to move and since my wife has family in Minnesota, I figured it was as good time to move as any.

Some more motor/controller questions:

1:
I was looking at some of the other motors and was wondering if there is anything special to justify the price difference between the Feigao and Lehner motors (at the same approximate specs)? Are they more durable, run cooler given the same current/voltage, etc?

Also, is there a site and/or chart listing the Lehner motor specs for the various models? The 1930 and 1940 just list motor windings, but not the current, kV rating, and/or max cell count. The "basic" ones are a little better, but still don't say much.

2:
Are there better/more durable/cooler running controllers than the BK Warrior 9920? I plan on running 12-14 cells max. I'd like at least 100A or more current capability.

Like I've said in a previous post - I'd like to buy this stuff once and have years of use without overheating something (barring obvious abuse of course). I don't mind paying a higher price tag once rather than paying it twice!

Thanks in advance!

The only real difference between the lehner and feigaos is that the Lehners are made in Germany and have a screwed on endbell (won't fall off) and the feigaos are made in China, they have a pressed on endbell that is prone to popping off, but getting the rc-monster heatsink solves this, as it braces the motor.

The BK 9920 is a great controller, you can't really go wrong with it, if you want a bit more than 99 amps, you can get the 12020 warrior that can handle 120 amps and 20 cells, but there aren't many motors that can even pull too much mroe than 99 amps, so the 9920 is find IMO.

the lehner 19 series motors are high quality motor. It has better bearings, segmented magnets and higher tolerances. The 19 series will run cooler and smoother than a feigao. Just my experence of them.

So, the Lehner "basic" motors are roughly equivalent to the Feigao counterparts of the same windings then. Does Lehner have a site where I can check out the rest of the motor specs?

Thanks for your assistance.

http://www.bk-electronics.com/
yes they do. here is the link. I am not sure on the basic models or the xl.

Thanks cool, that was exactly the information I was looking for. They have downloadable data sheets for each motor that is VERY informative! I think I will probably end up with a Lehner basic 2400 or 2800 motor and the 9920 ESC.

I posted my next question in the Traxxas forums, but haven't had much luck. I was looking to mount the shifting servo where the empty servo slot is. However, I need an angled mount so the servo is vertical, not angled. It has been suggested to use the servo mount from an RC10GT and dremel the angle in, but I don;t particularly like the fit. I was looking for something like what Dafni used on his BL Revo, or this ,but they have been sold out for some time now. I tried using some aluminum bars bent to the right shape, but I am not satisfied with that either (I know...fussy). Any other ideas?

What if you bent the servo mount on the exsisting revo chassis flat and use a t maxx servo holder to push it up? Just a suggestion.

Actually, I thought of that too, but I'd really rather not. I'd have to bend the other side as well for consistency and it just wouldn't look the same.

I still like my servo mount. I thought about drilling a big hole in it, for looks and weight saving. It holds up good. And was easy to make. I used an alu rod and a drillpress.

As for ESC, I still love my 9920, never had problems. I tried it on the Revo with a 9L, 7XL and a Basic XL 2400. So far I like the 7XL the best. But I just bought an 8XL, let's see how it does.

nice! tell me what run tiems u get

Aluminum rod?? I wonder if we are talking about the same thing. I'm talking about these (I borrowed some of your images for reference during my project - hope you don't mind. :)):

http://bgosselin.home.mchsi.com/e-revo/servo_mount.jpg

I got some aluminum bar stock to see if I can come up with a "U" like mount. Failing that, I'll see if I can contact a plastics shop in town. I figure I can cut the pieces I need and then drill the mounting holes a little smaller than a typical 3mm screw so it will self-tap like most of the screw connections Traxxas uses. I'd try to build an aluminum mount like yours myself, but don't have the resouces to tap in the threads and don't wanna buy a tap-n-die set.

Yeah, we're talking about the same thing. Rod, bar, all the same to me....it's the language barrier, sorry. I used a 20x8mm bar, and cut an angle in it per hand.
I used a 3mm thread tapper, but I learned that if you drill a 2.7mm hole, the screw will cut its own thread.