Nah, Im not going to get blue. All of my projects I have a red and black color scheme since those are my favorite contrasting colors.

Your red & black color scheme will look great.

Glad you guys like the chassis. That was just a mockup, the final one will look much much better. Crazyphantom had the crazy idea of trying to sand off all the milling marks, which resulted in a matte finish. I would advise him to keep it the way it is for the final one, which will be much more shiny.

When looking at the amps on the lipolys, should I look at the continues, or max? how does it go to max? becasue if it goes to max, the controller (80 amp) wont handle the batts.

Let me know
-Joe

If you base anything off of the number of amps a Lipo can handle, look at the continuous. For a 380C 13t (on 4s Lipo?) something with 35amps continuous capability is enough, and won't get very warm. I run a Rustler with a Feigao 540 12s, which is basically the bigger brother to the 380C 13t (for kv), and I run a 3s 3300mah (33amps continuous) Lipo geared rather high. The motor takes the high gearing, and the highest temp the battery has gotten to is about 115 degrees, well within the limit.

Well I will be running dual packs both wiht a 37.2 amp continous. The packs as 2S, so im guessing 2-2S packs, that the motor will be able to handle it. So if Im looking to buy a 80amp controller, I only have to look for the continous amps coming from the batts then?I am also designing a cooling setup with a couple of fans, that will sit on top of the batteries to keep them cooler.

I'm at school right now, so I will get some more stuff up when I get home.

Don't base anything off of the batteries. Base everything off of the motor that you are running. In your case, you could get away with a controller rated at about 60amps continuous with the Feigao 380C 13t.

You shouldn't need to cool the batteries. In fact, it could be more harmful than helpful. The inner cells of a Lipo will get the hottest, so if you are cooling the coolest cells, then that means that the inner ones will suffer the greatest, causing them to fail earlier.
If a setup is capable of making the batteries hot enough that they need to be cooled, then the batteries aren't capable of handling that setup.

Chassis is being redesigned again because the measurements that starluck posted on their site for the lipolys wernt exact. The chassis should be done in like 20 minutes.

Here we go. FINAL CHASSIS!

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/chassis2.jpg

And here is one with the batteries mounted:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/chassis3.jpg

What you guys think?

I finally completed my motor mount design.

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Motormount.jpg

The weight is .5oz

Should be getting it cut tomarrow hopefully and then I will have some complete pictures.

Let me know what you think.
-Joe

looks good!

*Update*

Here is what the final mount will accually look like. Had to make a few adjustments for strength but it should be fine now.(I also plan on getting it anodized black)

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...motormount.jpg

Let me know what you think
-Joe

That motor mount is pretty nice, I need something like that, but I'm cheap and I just use bent metal :P

and with a chamfer..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...otormount1.jpg