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Well, the spur gear would fit between the X-braces, but if I'd lower the CD-mount, the motor would colide with the rear plate. As it is right now, the motor (with a 12t pinion) sits above the rear plate by just 3,5mm.
Concerning the price, I'll send you a private message. Since I've never seen Mike directly answering to one of the "how much does a CD/motor mount cost" posts in the forums, I won't do it for him... edit: PM is sent. @Bondonutz: Thank's, but what do you mean with "The Lightning diffs is a fantastic idea." ? And why would I need Ofna stand offs? |
I think he means the HB 1:8 scale diffs for the hybrids- I have the Lightning buggy diffs myself, great items.
No reason to change the shock standoffs though, they look fine (I need to do something with mine as the hole in the top shock cap is larger than the little inserts supplied with the GorillaMaxx suspension that is designed for normal maxx shocks, not 8T buggy shocks that I use). Doesnt leave much room for the esc, but it should just about squeeze in behind the motor- uber short wires which is always good :yes: |
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I still don't get what the fantastic idea is in choosing the diffs mike has in his shop anyways :neutral:
And different shock stand offs would simply not work with the shock towers I'm using. But never mind! What do you guys think of this? http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/rad.jpg I think, considering how cheap a trick this is (5€ for a tyre marker), the effect is remarkably :yes: |
Even though it looks spiffy and was lots of work(time consuming), It'll get scrubbed off the first run. :neutral:
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It looks good and isn't a lot of work :wink:
And how would I know how well/bad something works if I never tried anything because there is a posibility that it wouldn't last long. Based on this I shouldn't have built a bulletproof g-maxx, as there still is a chance that it could break. So I'll stay with the "you'll never know before you try"-principle :yipi: |
I agree, Nothing's bullet proof in this hobby. Gears in general are almost first on the list to go.
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Little update:
As the Bigmaxximum has a 3mm muff(?) on it's front, I designed a sort of 3mm spacer for the rest of the motorfront because I wasn't satisfied with the overlapping of the pinion and the spur gear resulting from this muff. Furthermore I ordered some shims from a lokal nitro-truck-shop (will most likely be the only thing I'm ever going to order there:lol:) and some dogbone springs and HB output joints from tower (because german dealers seem to think they can rip me off and demand three times the price:oh:) because I don't like how the 8mm drive cups are fastened on the hb pinions. When all those parts arrived, I'm going to disassemble the whole truck and rebuild it again but with threadlock on the metal on metal threads. And I'm going to seal the hybrid bulks with Dreibond. So the diffs should stay free of dust and generally any other kind of debris. Dreibond is like silicone for sealing purposes like in a bathroom but it doesn't get that sticky and is easier to remove if you need to, great product I know from my years as car mechanic :yipi: Finally a short question: Do FLM diff cups for HPI Savage diffs fit with the Hot Bodies diffs? I thought, since HB is a part of HPI, the parts might be 100% compatible. |
Good question, dont know the answer. Im fairly certain there are metal cups available for the HB diffs though, seen em mentioned on another forum a while back, havent been able to track them down though...
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Have you checked nova for those diff cups?
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Nova has HPI diff cups, but no word if they are compatible to the HB stuff:neutral:
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Update:
I mailed FLM about their Savage diff cups yesterday: "I just wanted to ask if those diff cups (FLM44000) for HPI also fit the HotBodies Lightning pro diffs? Since HB is a part of HPI I think there is a possibility the diff parts may be compatible." That's the answer I got today: "Their is actually a difference. We do have a diff for buggy gears, but I cannot say for certain if it will fit the pro diff." I fear this is no that helpfull information... |
yay:yipi:
*tripplepost!* On Monday my shippent form towerhobbbies arrived and with it the last needed parts to get my g-maxx ready to roll. So from monday evening till yesterday night I completely disassembled the g-maxx an rebuilt it, but this time using threadlock, sealing the FLM hybrid diff cases and shimming the pinions. http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ondhybrid1.jpg Hope this keeps any dust away from my diffs. http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ondhybrid2.jpg Furthermore I had to modify the shock mounting system / shock stand offs because the I wasn't satisfied with the way you had to tighten them. http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ferpfosten.jpg You can see the flat spots I had to dremel to get a grip with tolls, before it was completely round and you had no way to lock the bolt while tightening the hex nut. I assume nobody has an idea what I'm talking about or how this system works, I'll take detailed pictures of that later, as I'm going to take pictures of the whole chassis later today. And I'm going to put this monster on a scale and look how heavy it is. To do: Tape the tires and get some venting holes into them. Waiting for money to rain form the skies so I can go buy some batteries.:whistle: edit: would really love to edit the title of this thread by adding something like "g-maxx build starting page 3". But it seams this is not possible with the used board-software :sarcastic: |
(Sorry for yet another post in a row but when I wanted to edit this into my last post there was something with "you got 17 pictures in you posting, 10 is maximum".)
Took the pictures and weighted it. The chassis as it can be seen on the pictures below weighs 3235 gramms or 7.132 pounds if I converted it correctly. Is this ok or too heavy? First the promised pictures of the shock stand off construction: http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling.../standoff1.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling.../standoff2.jpg Secondly, especially for Neil, the requested side profile shots with mounted motor:party: http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/forneil.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...x/forneil2.jpg And finally some pics of the wohle chassis, if anyone want's to see some more detailed shots of certain parts, please just tell me. http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito1.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito2.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito3.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito4.jpg http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito5.jpg |
I thought I jump in and post so you dont have a 4th post. So far everything is looking awesome. I am also building a g-maxx the silverback build . I just want too let you know you are lucky to get one of those center diffs because I have been looking to get one for over a year. I emailed mike multiple times and never get a reply, well at least about the cd. Maybe the old mighty dollar isnt worth as much here in the states anymore. OH yea! it isnt lol. I just bought some zippy lipos 2 3s 5000mah 30c for around $140 shiped I obviously havent used them yet but everyone says they work great and are probably the best bang for the buck. Maybe you should check them out as an affordable option. I didnt pay extra for the airmail option and still got them in a week.
Edit: too late Wow! that looks great a couple of questions though. Doesnt the ecm have a built in power supply for the reciever I was wondering why you are running a extra bat pack for it. Who makes those towers? and did you have to drill the towers for that thick bolt or am I seeing things wrong. Can you lay the ecm down I think it would look better. Over all looks awesome and that stand is cool. |
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