I agree that they can be reused, but let me ask you, how often do you think you can pop out the gold plated connector out of the plastic holder and pop it back in? I would say that it wouldn't take long that the plastic holder would not hold that gold plated connector very securely. And at almost $7 a pair, not including shipping and custom fees, I will get as much satisfaction if not more with the Deans for half the price. I don't have a money tree, and even if I did, it would be CDN money so Deans it is for me. :yes:

Touche, that's exactly what I thought.

The price is definitely turning me off, but for some reason I'm growing tired of Deans...
The wire seems to be heating up, which is starting to worry me. (The wires from my Battery to ESC.. May be something else though)

I've never reused Deans before... Wouldn't like to either, seems like.. i don't know, just doesn't seem likely me to do.

Are TRX connectors reusable, can de contact plate be disconnected from the plastic?
Or will the same problem occur as MC just stated?

Pretty sure the same thing.
Will be really hard to take em out of the plastic housings.

Rear body mount brace
 

Running a rear wing puts a lot of strain on the rear body mount. Many have made all sorts of braces to strengthen that body mount. Here's my take on it. Very light weight and much stronger than it looks.

The parts

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...unt_brace1.jpg

A small piece of 3 mm thick carbon fiber to fit over the rear shock tower, some nuts and screws, a brass insert for the rear body mount and a rod with ball ends glued at each end. The rod is a carbon fiber rod, I drilled the ball ends so that they would fit snug on the rod with CA glue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...unt_brace2.jpg

If anyone wonders if the ball ends will stay on the rod, stop wondering. On my nitro Revo, I replaced the sway bar turnbuckles with the same kind of CF rod and it hasn't failed after using them since 2006.

DEANS FTW!!!!!:lol:
never failed me yet.

i chose to use summit axles over the CVD's cause CVD's have a doggie bone at one end...and this always pops out on me :neutral::diablo:

where as the summit shafts are technicaly a CVD at both ends.

we'll see how strong they are :whip::whistle:
trying to scrounge myself a hyper 7 diff too :P..casue the traxxas one with 500k oil is not thick enuff methinks (but i never re-build it :rofl:)
shaun

Looks very pro MC. :)
Question,
do you compensate for the CF plate on top, and the one underneath you placed earlier, by using longer screws for the rear shock mount?

absoloobly :mdr: I use M3X.5X45 mm cap head screws 12.9, they stick out the bottom like I showed in post #32 and I lock them up with M3 nylok nuts from underneath the chassis.

Ahh right, I remember that. Man that thing is going to be bullet proof, what I like most is that it just looks so professional. :intello:


I copied your idea of the rear skid plate made out of cheap sheet metal a while ago, works great.
Today I was looking to make one for the front to, as it is needed most there.
It ended up nice, and without any drilling into original parts. (I wanted to keep stock parts undamaged so it'd be easier to sell later. I have an E revo, and want to go BL later... money you know:rules:)

Deans deans deans deans
 

I'm dizzy from the soldering fumes :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_deans1.jpg

A little thing I do when I solder Deans plugs. Although I am very careful and plan ahead, on occasion, I have to keep the soldering iron tip longer than I should on the Deans' metal tab making the plastic start to melt and the tab moves and becomes crooked. This results in a bad connection or no connection at all. You know, you suddenly have a little twitch and the iron tip moves with the wire and you try to reposition it, it only takes a couple seconds but that is enough to over heat the plug's metal tab.
Some say to connect a male plug into the female plug you want to solder wires to and vice versa. That extra plug absorbs a lot of the heat and often makes for a poor soldering job, cold solder.
So here's my trick, I stuff tiny pieces of hard wood in the female plug I want to work on. Those pieces of wood have been sanded down carefully so that they fit snug but not tight. The wood does not absorb heat and it holds the plug's metal tab in place in case something happens and the plastic starts to melt. For a male plug, I took a scrap female plug and yanked the metal tabs out oh it and replaced them with the wood pieces. This holds the metal tabs of a male plug in place in case the plastic starts to melt. Easy and effective, it made the job much easier.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_deans2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_deans3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_deans4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_deans5.jpg

And that my friend, is another reason I switched everything over to 5.5mm bullet connectors....

...Anderson PowerPoles...no soldering necessary!

Thanks for the suggestions. 5.5 bullets, Deans, Traxxas, Anderson PowerPoles, EC5s... :oh: I like how everyone agrees on one good connector :mdr:

I know right?
I thought about PowerPoles and Deans when I first started RC.
Then, just a few eeks ago, I started thinking about EC5s.
Then, a few days ago, I'm thinking about TRX connectors.

I think I'm just gonna stick to Deans, but just gotta switch over all my HobbyCity plugs to some real Ultra plugs.

You should try a more powerful iron, or a soldering gun. I use my 230W gun to solder Deans and 5.5mm bullets. I let it heat up for a bit so when I put it on the Deans' solder tab it heats/solders so fast that the other end barely gets hot. It also helps to tin the wire/tab just before soldering it so they're still warm and the solder re-melts more easily.

:yes: