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as did mine also stiffens up the suspension, i can drop it from much higher without it bottoming out with the lst towers plus ebay is flooded with them.
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I wrap a piece of electrical tape around the front end of the diffs so they fit tight in the bulkheads.
What Neu packs are you running? The 4100EP packs fit well in the losi battery tray (perfect actually) and I only had to drill one hole in the chassis to put the tray in there. And yes it was a nice day today here in the Pacific Northwest (first day of spring, Yah). I had better get my Muggy back together so I can try out my 1520! |
im still rocking the medusa 80mm 2000kv with great results but the 1520 would be a great step up.
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Looks good JT. Nice and clean.
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Jeff, are you calculating with Muggy diffs? The ratio is taller(slower) than LST. What pinion are you using? And 6s I take it? I wonder whats up with the speed.... |
i can go as fast as the tires will let me with a stock spur and still be under 16t pinion.
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Have you reprogrammed the MMM?
My personal preference is to use 0-.1 on the ballooning. However, I do think 14/50 is geared a tad on the low side. a 16-18t pinion should really wake it up! |
Well, thanks to Hootie, I seem to have a plethora of pinions to pick from. No, I haven't touched the programming on this one since the last official software update came out (I haven't put any of the Beta stuff on it). I'm definitly in agreement on moving up to about a 18.
I must have had a number wrong the last time I ran the calculator, 'cause here is what i got this time, using a 18t pinion. Which would be absolutely perfect... Quote:
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Nice! I was thinking you were running 6s as well.
Yes, looks like the 18t pinion should really wake it up. I thought 14/50 sounded a bit slow as well. |
Yep - ran it with the 18 and its much better. Might even jump up a little higher yet, but I want to run it hard through a pack frist and see what temps look like.
I swapped out the shocktowers, looked at it for a bit, tried a bunch of different body styles on it, and didn't like any of it. So I put the olds back on and just moved the shock to the inner mount hole. I'm happier with it like this, but had to try it. Well, M'in Law is in the hospital, and i'm taking off for Montana in a week, so probably wont do much on these for a bit. Would be great to take this back to the ranch to run, but, they still have a foot of snow. With it warming up, its gonna be a sloppy mess working the moo cows this year. |
Those red 7075 T6 TRX rods are a great choice for chassis bracing, but I'd(and am using) use bigger rod ends(links). These (by Dubro)are about 20% percent bigger and are made up of harder plastic. The screw hole that attaches to the rod will need to be drill out a touch as they are too small. I highly reccomend them. I've got 12 of them on my truck LOL and haven't broke one after about a year.
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1822.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1806.jpg The other 4 links are in the steering making 12 monster ball links in all. Nice trucks by the way! -Zack |
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Finally a bit of an update on the design. I decided to try a drop down center plate, and reversed the center diff and motor to get more of the cg to the front. Had to mock up the servo and front shaft to make sure there was clearance. Looks dooable right now. The drop is only a 1/2 inch - could go a little more. My original idea was to get it low enough that nothing was sticking up through the top - but that now seems to be a far fetched idea. I used the muggy center diff set up (1.806" tall).
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