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-   -   Traxxas Zero (1/10th Revofluxpede) (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29425)

cmac 08.22.2011 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDS (Post 411116)
Well I ordered a motor today but its not the tacon 2150kv motor that I showed you guys earlier...that's because I found a steal of a deal on a used original neu 1515 1y/f 2200kv motor for $50 shipped! For those who aren't well versed on neu motors...(most of you on RCM probably are) neu is the company which castle creations partnered up with to make the castle mamba monster line of motors. Neu is known for making arguably the best brushless motors you can buy..but they are also known for having very high prices. The motor I just bought is very similar to the castle 2200 motor. So...basically..im getting perhaps one of the best motors you can get for the same price as the tacon motor...im pretty psyched!

Right now im working on the motor mount so that I can mount the motor once it gets here.

Where did you get the motor from?

EDS 08.22.2011 11:52 PM

Its used, I found it on the forums at Rctech.net.

EDS 08.24.2011 07:43 PM

I got the motor today and it looks to be in great condition. And uh...its pretty darn big,but it fits perfectly in between the front and rear shocks. On to the pictures..

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2417-15-02.jpg

Here is a comparison between a regular 540 motor, a 550 motor (the motor I previously was going to use in this truck) , and the beast Neu 1515 2200kv.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2417-13-48.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2417-14-09.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2417-14-34.jpg

This thing is going to be insane! Anyway, the next couple days I will be working on the driveling and will get some pictures of this thing mounted on the chassis.

EDS 08.26.2011 02:53 PM

I got the motor mounted today. I mounted it with a RC8e motor mount. Like I said before this motor fits perfectly! Adjusting gear mesh will obviously be a pain in the butt but it won't be to bad since I have a L - shaped allen key that I trimmed to get into that space. My only concern with this set-up is that the slots on the motor mount are vertical...so I can just imagine going off a big jump having a hard landing and the motor sliding down on the motor mount since its so heavy, so I'm trying to figure out a way to support it from underneath so that doesn't happen. But other than that it fits perfectly and the black can will fit in one I cover the aluminum in flat black vinyl.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2612-31-58.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2612-32-10.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2612-32-38.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...2612-34-35.jpg

Next I have to work on the drive line. Does anybody have a suggestion for diff fluid for the front/center/rear diffs?

Aussie Nerd 08.26.2011 09:52 PM

This is an awesome build, I check RCM every day just to see if you've posted an update. Massive props to you for essentially building your own RC:intello: I eagerly await the end result!

Kieren

brainanator 08.26.2011 11:05 PM

now lets see whats in the chassis...HOLY CRAP! IT'S ALL MOTOR!!! lol

Lookin good! Diff fluid really depends on how you want it to handle, somewhere around 10k ish in the outter diffs and 10k ish in the center if you don't want wheelies and want it to unload, or if you're looking for controllable wheelies go up to 100k or more. Someone with better experience will chime in I'm sure :)

Overdriven 08.26.2011 11:48 PM

Nice build, I really like the concept too. I'd go with 30k up front, 10-20k out back, traxxas diffs need thicker oil than 1/8th diffs. For the center it depends on how resistant you want it to be from unloading and the style of handling you want. If its going to be about buggy weight 30-50k would be a good starting point though for an all around basher. I like mine with 30-50k, gives enough resistance to unloading for me, yet I still get diff action on low grip surfaces so the handling is there. IMO 100k has very little diff action unless its on high grip surfaces, a heavy vehicle, big tires, lots of power or a combo of those. So the handling is more like a MT with a trans than a buggy or truggy. Experimentation will likely be required to get YOUR desired result either way.

mamba max1 08.27.2011 03:54 PM

Nice man. I like how all of the weight will be crammed as tight as possible. :) I bet it will handle amazingly well too.

EDS 08.31.2011 09:38 PM

Aussie nerd: That's awesome that your so interested in the project!

Brainator: Yep its all motor :)

Mamba: Just wait until I get the batteries,esc,receiver,and servo in there..its going to be very cramped

Overdriven: Since this is going to be a hardcore basher I think I'm going to try going with 100k in the center..sounds like this is usually what people suggest for bashing. Like you said it will take some testing.

Tonight I got the drive-train all put together. I have decided to go with 100k diff oil in the center Since I had modified some Revo axles in my Evo8 project to fit in the Rc8 center diff I was able to use that..Some of you haven't seen my Evo8 project so I will describe the process of being able to use slider drive shafts for a 1/8th scale diff.

1.First I had to shave about 1/8th inch off of the black plastic part where the axle hooks on to the sliders.

2.Then I spent about an hour and half using my hand saw to cut down the axles so that they where the same length as the Rc8 inputs.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0702091911.jpg

3. That's about all there is to it after that I just started putting it back together.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...702091911a.jpg
(Right is stock, Center is cut-down, Left is the completed one)

4. Once you have it put all together it should look like this.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0702091919.jpg

Since I had that all done..all I had to do was measure to how much I needed to shorten the Revo drive shafts I recently had bought. It turns out that I didn't have to trim the drive shaft for the rear at all so that was easy as pie.

Now.. the front on the other hand was a bit more of a handful. I was planning on using just a cut-down slayer drive shaft for the front center drive shaft..but that ended up being way too long. The other problem is that on the Revo/Slayer/Summit the front differential is angled upward. My center diff is mounted horizontal. So I had to trim down the bulkhead so that the front differential could be at the correct angle to match up with the center diff.

I noticed that the male end of a Slayer drive shaft fits perfectly over the output shaft on the front diff. So I trimmed one down drilled a hole and put a pin thru it. To keep the pin in I made a simple sleeve. I have to say that so far this is the part that I'm the most proud of..because not being able to hook up a front center drive shaft is a big problem and I was able to fix it in a creative way..anyway enough talking..more pictures.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...3119-12-31.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...3119-13-16.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...3119-14-32.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...3119-13-46.jpg

Tomorrow or friday a little package with my battery boxes and some drive shafts should arrive....that means I'll be able to get the driveshafts installed but more importantly...I will be able to get the batteries, esc,receiver,and servo mounted!!

But till then...back to my calculus homework.

EDS 09.02.2011 11:35 PM

I waited around all day for a package of parts today so I could work on this....found out the package was in my neighbors mail box.

Anyway...got the battery boxes mounted and I'm getting very excited about this project!! Here is as it stands...need I say more?

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0221-13-15.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0221-13-58.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0221-15-32.jpg

The battery boxs fit awesome... and the esc,receiver,and servo will also be mounted in the boxes. I'm going to try and route as much of the wires in the boxes so that it will be a very clean electronics install. Here is how I'm planning on having the batteries/electronics layed out

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0221-16-22.jpg

I'm getting closer and I'm very excited about this project! Its gonna turn out sick.

Here's my to-do list

Mount esc/receiver
Mount servo
Order parts
Cut/mount drive shafts
Make roll cage (If time allows)
Trim TVPs
Fill front/rear diffs with oil
Cover parts in vinyl
Paint body
Take final pictures
Take videos!!

The Dude 09.03.2011 02:56 AM

in your list you forgot one thing
-BREAK IT !!!:mdr:

a really original project :yes: and a nice nice build !! :great:

ransom 09.03.2011 03:48 AM

wow those flux battery boxes fit sooo good on there

is that one of those fragile hk100 escs with the remote caps poking out there ?

JoFreak 09.04.2011 03:43 PM

Looks nice and packed, no wasted space in there, like it!
One thing though:
What wheels/tires are you going to use?
Because from the looks of it, I'd say pretty much everything without a lot of offset will hit the battery trays at full steering lock.
But maybe it's just the angle of the pictures that's missleading me...

brainanator 09.04.2011 04:21 PM

Make sure you get some velcro straps to throw around those battery boxes. Also, try switching them around, so the hinge is on the outside. They give you a little better access that way. I don't run that way, but my brother does, and I kinda like it...lol

EDS 09.07.2011 02:41 AM

The Dude: Yep, that comes with insane bashing.

Ransom: Thanks man... Yea it is a Hk 100a esc.. I'm going to try it and see if it holds up.. it held up in my Evo8 project on 4s and a Feigao 8XL so maybe it will hold up in this..i'm not sure..if not I'll throw it out and grab me a Hobbywing 150a... I love hobbywing.

Jofreak: Thanks. Definitely no wasted space on this.

I will be useing Imex rear Jato wheels and Proline 2.8 badland tires. The Jato wheels have plenty...almost too much offset to them..and don't come anywhere close of hitting the battery boxs.

Brainator: Yep, I have some tekno ones I'm going to throw around them. I looked into doing that and since the shocks and motor are there..I feel like it would be hard to squeeze the latches. Once I trim down the TVP's the battery box tops will open up more than enough.

I got a small update for you guys today...

When I got the Slayer Pro a-arms I was under the impression that the stock Slayer Driveshafts would be long enough to work with the Pro extended a-arms. I didn't feel like they would be so I bought some Revo Driveshafts. Summit driveshafts would've been better since you don't have to worry about the little e-clips falling out but the Summit drive shafts are crazy expensive. So, I went with Revo drive shafts. Revo drive shafts are obviously way too long...so I got out the scroll saw and trimmed them down.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0623-39-57.jpg

As many of you know Revo driveshafts are beefy...how beefy you ask? This beefy!
(Left is a Jato/Rustler/Stampede drive shaft, center is a stock slayer drive shaft, and right is the revo drive shafts )
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0623-41-47.jpg

With the drive shafts installed...
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0700-03-52.jpg

While I was at it I put some Jato rod-ends on the Rc8 steering turnbuckles I had used on the Evo8 in order to make them long enough and mounted them

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0700-04-11.jpg

On the rear I installed the drive shafts and installed Jato rod-ends also on the Toe links.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0700-08-21.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...0700-11-24.jpg

I ordered the last of the parts that I need to complete this project and they should be here Friday or Saturday. I have a busy week and weekend so I'm not sure how much I will be able to get done. But we'll see....


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