Why do I even post here, I have mistaken you idiots for other people that are not like you.

of course the thunder power are better than the nanotech ..... but also you need compare the prices before call "idiots" to the other people :whip: ......

A friend and I have been using Turnigy and the nano-techs for a few years with nothing but great results. As a matter of fact the only batteries I have had issues with were one Polyquest (two cells puffed) and two Neu's, both 5s packs that had a bad cell each, but whatever it's your money.

You do know you will never reach this power density number. First, 130C battery performance will never be the same from brand to brand. Secondly, at 130C your connectors and wires will be so hot that it would be burning the insulation right off, so don't use the burst current ratings... ever. Thirdly, the voltage drop at 130C will be so astronomical that it would make it noting short of useless in any application. The max ratings for batteries these days should only be the continuous C rating, which is 65C for those nano-techs. Compared to the cell IR of other top brands such as ThunderPower and Hyperion, nano-tech packs are very overrated.

Behind in technology
 

You must be behind in todays techonolgy. Have you not seen the advertising for MaxAmps batteries? True 750C power racing Lipos. Everything you just stated goes against what they are telling everyone is fact. They can't be wrong because they have been the hands down winner for what, the last five years running as the peoples choice for Lipo packs world wide, right? Are you saying they are lying to the public? Ha ha ha ha ha ha:rofl::lol:

first race with this awesome lipos ..... with a lot of sun and crazy high temperatures (37-42cº) .......... not puffy and great performance ....... each battery charge +7000mah

the car is the green

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXdisOD0gF0

There is that stupid talk again

after 30 cycles on each a-spec 6600 65c batt in a 1/8tt and a truggy 1/8 ......... dont puffy and charge the same mah than the first day .....

much more power/autonomy, lighter and smaller than the 6000 25c ...... the unic think I dont like is the temperature after 15-20min of race ...... about 45-48cº after the cutoff (same than the 25c)

No one cares about a battery after 30 cycles, as any 'real' battery should still be breaking in and indeed improving in that period...

the 99% of the lipos dont pass the 300 cycles ........ the nanotech normally arrive at 200-300 without problems .......... 30 cycles is the +10% and I think is important know how work at this % of her life .....


the 90% of the zyppy/turnigy and other cheap lipos normally die before 80-100 cycles ....

Stop posting PR

My PolyQuest XP 25 C 5000 mAh batteries are still going strong after 5+ years. The performance and capacity are just as good as day one.
"You get what you pay for!"
However, having owned and used the 45C-90C nano-tech 5000mAh 4S. The batteries do push out plenty of power. The down fall is, the battery degrades much quicker than a good quality cell soon as you start the cycle. I would buy the nano-tech batteries again, but I am a sucker for good quality batteries. It's a perfect battery to use for one season, but not something that will last you a long time.

You get what you pay for. Shipping is optional. They're all coming from the same place. Some people put stickers on them, some people charge more, some people put flames that coincide with ridiculous claims, etc... etc.... etc...

I'm running 16/50 on a converted Hot Bodies LSP-2, Castle Monster v3, and a 1600Kv Turnigy inrunner, with a Nano-Tech 4.0 6s 45-95c pack. I've been bashing the crap out of this truck for months. That battery is puffy after about 10-15 cycles. I only have the one to base this on, and used an older 3.0 nano 6s which was rated at 45c from the failed Trex 500 build. Both of them have gotten a bit puffy, but still seem to work well. I've noticed that the 4K pack has been more reluctant to balance correctly, and is more "puffy". It appears larger than it used to, but nothing that would discourage running it. I don't have the fancy data loggers, or anything of that nature. I use the old school "what happens when I plug it in" method.

They work, and for the price, seem to be a legitimate option for people on a budget. I DO NOT recommend trying to fry one. I've got opinions on the smaller packs that I've used crawling from actually seeing wires melt and packs go up in flames.

Volt Up! Gear Down!