Look at the image above. This is my actual setting.

Grisa will find that interesting as it will be the second e-mail regarding this LOL. I'm going to try it now and see what happens.

That is interesting because I am using already the new version 3.21 !

I made a video of the problem and I'm going to upload it in youtube.

Here are the settings I have now:

A: 3
B: 5
C: 1
D: 1
E: 1
F: 6
G: 1
H: 1
I: 2
J: 1

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Try to put the "Automatic correction of neutral" at YES and try it again.

And as i can see, with the newer version, we have the "No Brake" option?
That's good when we use mechanical brake!!

Topas, Freewheel should be set to 'yes' right?

Actually I just double checked the check marks on the manual and I have H as YES. I sent an e-mail to Mr. Grisa and I will wait to see what he'll say and I also sent him a link to this thread.

Look at this funny current values ;)

If my eagletree logger is correct, the max current was 89 A ... (10 samples per second)

300A or 180A is impossible for my old 14cell nimh !

:surprised: That is something. I received an e-mail from Mr. Grisa and he said for me to set the neutral range at 12%. That didn't work. I will make a new video of everything from programming to the problem.

It didn´t work for me either . But I did not get a reply to my email yet .

Yours is running good now after you you made the change in the brake setting, but did you set it for B: 7 or B: 5? I'm going to try a few other changes to see if it helps.

I tried to see if adding drag brake would help, but now the car just accelerates without me applying brakes. The faster it goes in forward the faster it'll spin when drag brake is applied.

I don´t know what you mean with B 7 or B 5 - don´t you see my image of the settings ?

I'm not using the PC to program it. The manual has B as Brake and option B: 5in the manual is Very Hard/1,3 sec. and B: 7 doesn't have a brake value, but it shows the 2,3 sec., so it seems that one can actually get more options with the PC programming.

News about low voltage cutoff :

Now I tried a LIPO-setup with racing modus turned off and had the same problems (rpm was reduced when I gave full throttle) .
The eagletree logger indicated that the voltage went to 2,89 V/cell on full throttle. I think this won´t be a problem for a short period and I don´t know why the ESC cuts off or reduces the rpm.
So there are three solutions for the problem:

1. Turn on racemode
2. Buy better LIPOS
3. MGM has to improve their algorithm of low voltage detection

im still trying to get mgm to respond to my emails asking for info to ship 2 of the 16018's to them.

That's the method I'm gonna try. I bought a lipo saver low voltage cutoff from mike but it came with Dean's ends on it. (I had converted all my ends to the new VXL ends by Traxxas)

I've decided to go back to Deans so I'm waiting for an order to come in so I can install the LVC.

Hopefully that'll cure that problem.

So as i can see, the new 3.21 version that i'll suppose to recieve in my 16018 will not solve the problem?????

To bad....
But with this new SW version, i'll can download futur version myself, and i hope that MGM will finaly able to exit a software who'll allow their high $$$$ controller to be as reliable than a little $100.00 Mamba max:whistle:

Maybe MGM will argue that the cut off is correct, because voltage is too low for a lipo.

When I will receive my new batteries I can post more facts about this problem.

But : My MGM ESC runs very smooth and cold. I hope this is only a software issue. It maybe a hardware problem because the current values are too high. I don´t know how they measure it, but 300 A /peak out of old cells is impossible.

So in conclusion, you can have the latest SW version, but the best thing to do with this controller is to run it in race mode with an external li-po saver.

That's it that's all:neutral:

I don´t think so ... if you have good lipos which don´t go under 3,2 V / cell under the highest load you don´t have to enable the racing mode . Tomorrow I will test a setup with 5s on a feigao 8xl. This lipos are brand new from maxamps. They will easily be able to deliver 100 A ! So stay tuned ;)

Good, but i only run on 4s and my curent is suppose to be higher. I think to buy another li-po this spring, and this will be a Flightpower 5 or 6s. Like that the curent will be lower.

And yes i stay tune, realy want to know how your controller run.:yes:

Thank you buddy!!

If the lipos are droping below 3v/cell then that truly is a problem with the lipos being to weak for the setup. I dont see this as the problem the MGM claimed to be the overcurent kicking in to early do to software probems.

I would hold judgment on the software fix untill someone can test the new software with lipos that can proper voltage under load.

Today I tried my new 5s lipo - setup with racemode turned off .
I did not have any problems - the emaxx was incredibly fast !
So the cut off was really a problem of weak lipos.

Pheww, thats a relieve. Anyone received their upgraded controllers from MGM yet? I hope mine comes in soon. Supposed to have left MGM last Monday but so far no tracking ID or word from MGM yet.

So what are considered weak lipo's? I run 2 orion 4800's which are rated at 15c, or 74 amps. I have yet to experience these cut-out issues on lipo mode. I have it set to reduce RPM, 4s.

Weight of your car ?
Gearing ?
Motor ?

My Emaxx is new, stock chassis. My gearing is 68/20, Neu 1515 1y motor. Are these LV problems related to pushing the MGM hard making it cut out? I geared conservitive for a little over 30+ mph.

Same thing for me, left MGM last monday, any tracking, any news from Grisa........

That's smell bad....

This LIPO is exactly too weak for your emaxx !!!

Both my ESCs are going to MGM tomorrow so they should be back on friday the latest based on agreement with mgm. They have 3.11, do not have really any issues with them but does not hurt getting new firmware.

THough I'd have to look at my setup again, I don't think it was "reduce RPM" setting that caused the problem. It's when the setting is set to cut off.

I had my 5S set to cut off and had the same problem. Changed the setting to reduce rpm and it runs fine.

I was up till 3am last night replacing every Traxxas TRX end with a Dean's end. Now that it's done, I'll install the 5S low voltage detector that I bought from Mike.

Mark

Wallot, you leave realy near from MGM, you're lucky man, i'll like to leave near my Controller designer:intello:

i wanted to clear out the self fw upgrade and it is like this :

You will need CC03 cable + USBCOM version 3.0 or later (so I am sending my 2.12 version as well as it can be upgraded )

You'll need the CC_03 cable only if you want to download futur SW.
But for programming you controller via your PC, the CC_02 will do the job.

But i hope that MGM will send me the CC_03 cable with my upgrade controller:oh:
If not, i'll have to buy it, and i realy don't know where:neutral:

If we buy the CC_03 cable, can we download the firmware upgrade ourselves?

Or is the manufacturer the only one that will install the upgrade?

I ask because if it's something I can buy a cable and download the software myself, I'd rather do that than send in my controller again.

Thanks,

Mark

My truck ran fine in reduce RPM, I just had a feeling that I wasn't getting the power my setup was capable of. Turns out reduce RPM mode was reducing the rpm to limit the current. Basically just because your controller doesn't cut out on reduce RPM mode doesn't mean your not having the problem.

Still waiting on my controller. Used a different email address to send Mr. Grisa a message and got a quick reply. My controller should have been shipped early last week. I'm going out of town next week, hopefully there will be a controller waiting for me when I get back.

You mean it might be even faster? :surprised: I'm happy the way it runs now... I can't imagine breaking even more parts with more power.

you will need CC03 and USBcom version 3.00

since I will have it in few days being local please wait and i will confirm it

Has anyone gotten an updated controller back yet to vetrify that this does in fact "fix the problem," or are we still waiting for the first ones sent in to come back. I am considering sending my 16018 in, but want to hear from someone to verify that this is in fact actually a fix for the problem. I am getting by with running reduce RMP mode with a very conservative spool up speed, and for the track its fine, I honestly can't use any more power, but I would love to move the controller to my savage, and in there I will want to run it flat out as hard as I can as its just an open field basher and speed runs and wheelies are what its all about.

Can anyone confirm yet that their controller performs better after this software upgrade?