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-   -   Mamba Monster dead? (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11960)

e-mike 05.23.2008 11:57 PM

i dont no but with the 8000mah i can run without issue.18 minute of fun tonight:mdr:tomorow im:wink: gonna try the 4000 again just to see what happen

phatmonk 05.24.2008 07:43 AM

So if I dont get the "phone call" I will get my MMM repaired?Castle received my MMM wednesday of last week.

GriffinRU 05.24.2008 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176001)
Nothing wrong with the Rubycons, couldn't get FMs. Remember WE ARE NOT BUYING CAPS in Asia.... so no possibility of getting "seconds" or phonies or manufacturer rejects like there is with Chinese manufacturers.

BEC doesn't look right eh? In what way?

Understand that I've been doing this for 22 years... it's not like this was designed by an amateur...

Patrick

It is alright at the end it is your "baby" and you are in charge of getting right components.
Strange relation with subsidaries you have, if you cannot request seconds, how do you know that you got the best in the first round?

I just had it my hands for 10-15 minutes and I was missing some caps's in switching BEC, what are the ratings for this BEC anyways, amps wise.

Fair, 22 years is alot, and you do have a respectable company and product. But do not underestimate people around you, I am simply trying to help you here even promoting your stuff.

If you have any concerns or recommendations, PM it to me I am willing to work as a team and would be happy keep some aspects private.

Pdelcast 05.24.2008 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 176220)
It is alright at the end it is your "baby" and you are in charge of getting right components.
Strange relation with subsidaries you have, if you cannot request seconds, how do you know that you got the best in the first round?

I just had it my hands for 10-15 minutes and I was missing some caps's in switching BEC, what are the ratings for this BEC anyways, amps wise.

Fair, 22 years is alot, and you do have a respectable company and product. But do not underestimate people around you, I am simply trying to help you here even promoting your stuff.

If you have any concerns or recommendations, PM it to me I am willing to work as a team and would be happy keep some aspects private.

Fair enough ...

There is 100uf of output capacitance on the switcher -- ceramics, not electrolytics or tantalum. The input capacitance is 44uF of ceramic, right on the FET inputs, in addition to the approx 1000uf of electrolytic. Fets are snubbed.

As for the capacitor quality -- We've been using Rubycon and Panasonic both for many many years, and have never had a quality problem with either one. Rubycons are usually more difficult to get. The Panasonics usually have shorter lead time, and are more available -- but in this case we had the Rubycons available and Panasonic needed 12 weeks.

In our testing, the Rubycons ran a little cooler than the same value Panasonic FM series.

I'm not sure what you mean by "if you can't request seconds" -- we could, but we don't request seconds. I'm just saying that there isn't any possibility of us getting seconds or rejects -- we don't buy through brokers.

Patrick

phatmonk 05.24.2008 04:08 PM

So how long will it be until I get my MMM back.CC received it wednesday and no phone call yet informing me of its possible terminal condition.I havent received a email either.I actualy have seen a MMM on ebay that says its a updated/fixed and not the original.So are some of them fixable and some are not?not counting the units that fried.Mine never even got hot and used for 40minutes total run time and just stopped.It still looked like new.Or do I have to wait till mid June.I was probably one of the first to receive my MMM it was sent monday and got it wednesday.I have no problem with Castle and I am fully confident they will hook me up.I was just stoked that I was one of the first to get my hands on one.:whistle:

lutach 05.24.2008 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176287)
Fair enough ...

There is 100uf of output capacitance on the switcher -- ceramics, not electrolytics or tantalum. The input capacitance is 44uF of ceramic, right on the FET inputs, in addition to the approx 1000uf of electrolytic. Fets are snubbed.

As for the capacitor quality -- We've been using Rubycon and Panasonic both for many many years, and have never had a quality problem with either one. Rubycons are usually more difficult to get. The Panasonics usually have shorter lead time, and are more available -- but in this case we had the Rubycons available and Panasonic needed 12 weeks.

In our testing, the Rubycons ran a little cooler than the same value Panasonic FM series.

I'm not sure what you mean by "if you can't request seconds" -- we could, but we don't request seconds. I'm just saying that there isn't any possibility of us getting seconds or rejects -- we don't buy through brokers.

Patrick

I know a few brokers who buys from the factories just like many of the top factories, ems and odm out there. We brokers also have the upper hand when dealing with shortages and long lead time and I can tell you that Hon Hai (Foxconn), Flextronics, Elcoteq, Jabil, Benchmark, Videoton, Bosch, Philips, Sony and many others are glad that I'm around to help them. Most authorized distributors don't like how the brokers get the prices to actually win a company over. I even sold to a few authorized disti.

Edit: Forgot to mention every electronic components that I sell are factory sealed.

Electric Eel 05.24.2008 04:42 PM

Mine was 4 and a half business days door to door.

no mods 05.24.2008 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatmonk (Post 176293)
So how long will it be until I get my MMM back...:

i sent my out with only a repair sheet that i printed offline. castle did not call to discuss repair options simply fixed it and shipped it. I too think it was about 4 days door to door

which in my mind is excellent CS

phatmonk 05.24.2008 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by no mods (Post 176310)
i sent my out with only a repair sheet that i printed offline. castle did not call to discuss repair options simply fixed it and shipped it. I too think it was about 4 days door to door

which in my mind is excellent CS

Thanks too bad I have to send my second MMM back also same senario as the first.Very bummed.:diablo:

Sparky 05.24.2008 09:48 PM

Ok, here is an update on my Mamba Monster. My first one is back in for repairs the second one I bought from my local hobby shop, so it must have been from a different batch. My second Monster had 80 minutes of practice time going into this weekend’s race. The fans on both of my Monster died within 20 minutes of run time. I’m luck my setup is based on 6s 22.2 volts because it runs cool enough without the fan. It was very hot here at Houston during the race 95F, so it was a good test for the Monster. I ran one practice battery for 15 minutes. And I ran three qualifiers each 5 minutes. I qualified 5th for the sportsman A-main. I also finished 5 in the A-main. The A-Main was a 15 minute race. The Monster performed awesome the entire time. It really took some hard hits too. If I would have had my suspension a little better I could have done a little better. The fan plug had gotten knocked off the bottom of the ESC board early during practice, so all this was done without a fan. I check my ESC temp. after every race and it was always about 150F and my motor was also 150F. I plan on drilling a few extra holes in the case next to the capacitors for more air flow and not use the fan anymore. Fans with dirt and jumps just do not mix they can not survive very long. The Monster also has a clearance issue on the bottom side of the case. The fan plug and the big black component on the ESC’s bottom side ware on the case. I think this is causing some of the failures. I am installing a very thin square rubber gasket between the bottom case and the ESC board. This will keep the big black component for getting hid on the bottom case on the big jumps. I’m really happy with the way it preformed this weekend and I should be able to win one of these races soon. It’s a tuff class of about 35 to 40 people. I’m starting to get some real confidence in the Mamba Monster:yipi:. I think it going to be a very good ESC. Were just having a few first production bugs.

Setup
RC8
RC-Monster Conversion
Mamba Monster ESC
Maxamps 6s 22.2 volts 4000mah
Neu 1515 1.5y
Gear 46/17

e-mike 05.24.2008 10:32 PM

150f without a fan wow!!!!! im interested by your issue solution,, i want more detail for the modification to prevent some issue....if i understand you put a little piece of rubber between the case , the fan plug and the big black component????:mdr:

i can open my mmm ???

DRIFT_BUGGY 05.25.2008 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky (Post 176351)
Ok, here is an update on my Mamba Monster. My first one is back in for repairs the second one I bought from my local hobby shop, so it must have been from a different batch. My second Monster had 80 minutes of practice time going into this weekend’s race. The fans on both of my Monster died within 20 minutes of run time. I’m luck my setup is based on 6s 22.2 volts because it runs cool enough without the fan. It was very hot here at Houston during the race 95F, so it was a good test for the Monster. I ran one practice battery for 15 minutes. And I ran three qualifiers each 5 minutes. I qualified 5th for the sportsman A-main. I also finished 5 in the A-main. The A-Main was a 15 minute race. The Monster performed awesome the entire time. It really took some hard hits too. If I would have had my suspension a little better I could have done a little better. The fan plug had gotten knocked off the bottom of the ESC board early during practice, so all this was done without a fan. I check my ESC temp. after every race and it was always about 150F and my motor was also 150F. I plan on drilling a few extra holes in the case next to the capacitors for more air flow and not use the fan anymore. Fans with dirt and jumps just do not mix they can not survive very long. The Monster also has a clearance issue on the bottom side of the case. The fan plug and the big black component on the ESC’s bottom side ware on the case. I think this is causing some of the failures. I am installing a very thin square rubber gasket between the bottom case and the ESC board. This will keep the big black component for getting hid on the bottom case on the big jumps. I’m really happy with the way it preformed this weekend and I should be able to win one of these races soon. It’s a tuff class of about 35 to 40 people. I’m starting to get some real confidence in the Mamba Monster:yipi:. I think it going to be a very good ESC. Were just having a few first production bugs.

Setup
RC8
RC-Monster Conversion
Mamba Monster ESC
Maxamps 6s 22.2 volts 4000mah
Neu 1515 1.5y
Gear 46/17


Very nice update, seems like you are having a blast with it. Some people have phoned CC about the fans and CC have sent replacement ones out to them

Sparky 05.25.2008 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e-mike (Post 176358)
150f without a fan wow!!!!! im interested by your issue solution,, i want more detail for the modification to prevent some issue....if i understand you put a little piece of rubber between the case , the fan plug and the big black component????:mdr:

i can open my mmm ???

I will try to clarify. The gasket is to rise the ESC board up in the case so the components on the bottom side are farther away from the bottom case. Nothing should touch any of the components on the board. So the gasket is like a little rubber ring around the outside.

I also have holes in my car body next to the ESC so air is moving over the controller. That is the only reason I'm able to get by without a fan.

GriffinRU 05.25.2008 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176287)
There is 100uf of output capacitance on the switcher -- ceramics, not electrolytics or tantalum. The input capacitance is 44uF of ceramic, right on the FET inputs, in addition to the approx 1000uf of electrolytic. Fets are snubbed.

Patrick

Nice caps, what ESR value they present and why your inductor is not as compact as caps? Ceramics should have zero, but this high capacity once must have some, more care about power ratings for them and cooling.

What do you mean by "Fets are snubbed" i.e. on-die or with the caps network?

By the way which component is failing, or it is too much to ask?

Pdelcast 05.26.2008 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 176582)
Nice caps, what ESR value they present and why your inductor is not as compact as caps? Ceramics should have zero, but this high capacity once must have some, more care about power ratings for them and cooling.

What do you mean by "Fets are snubbed" i.e. on-die or with the caps network?

By the way which component is failing, or it is too much to ask?


The ceramics show about .005 ohm or so. The inductor isn't as compact as the capacitors because there isn't any inductors as compact as the capacitors -- not really sure what you mean. The smallest 22uh 4 amp inductors are at least 10mm square.

The FETs are snubbed using an RC snubber -- to prevent ringing.

The component that is failing is the switcher controller -- a National LM3485. National is looking into it with us -- seems the overcurrent circuit is failing internal to the LM3485, and leaving the chip in constant overcurrent state. That's why the output voltage drops to 1.08V - -it's in hiccup overcurrent mode. Replace the LM3485, and all works well again.

Patrick

azjc 05.26.2008 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176758)
The ceramics show about .005 ohm or so. The inductor isn't as compact as the capacitors because there isn't any inductors as compact as the capacitors -- not really sure what you mean. The smallest 22uh 4 amp inductors are at least 10mm square.

The FETs are snubbed using an RC snubber -- to prevent ringing.

The component that is failing is the switcher controller -- a National LM3485. National is looking into it with us -- seems the overcurrent circuit is failing internal to the LM3485, and leaving the chip in constant overcurrent state. That's why the output voltage drops to 1.08V - -it's in hiccup overcurrent mode. Replace the LM3485, and all works well again.

Patrick


for the techies
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM3485.html

GriffinRU 05.26.2008 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176758)
The ceramics show about .005 ohm or so. The inductor isn't as compact as the capacitors because there isn't any inductors as compact as the capacitors -- not really sure what you mean. The smallest 22uh 4 amp inductors are at least 10mm square.

The FETs are snubbed using an RC snubber -- to prevent ringing.

The component that is failing is the switcher controller -- a National LM3485. National is looking into it with us -- seems the overcurrent circuit is failing internal to the LM3485, and leaving the chip in constant overcurrent state. That's why the output voltage drops to 1.08V - -it's in hiccup overcurrent mode. Replace the LM3485, and all works well again.

Patrick

Is it possible that having 2 Fet's tripping the overcurrent, meaning your sense resistor (via Fet) readings are not consistent and Isense is way to sensitive from IC to IC? I am assuming that it is 1 fet per IC (6pin, close to inductor).

Yes, 4 amps inductor is hard to find, but I thought that you can get openframe ones and direct solder them to pcb.

Sparky 05.26.2008 05:14 PM

Here are some photos of my Monster
Monster case issue.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...dle/MMCASE.jpg

Gasket I installed for more clearance
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...e/MMGASKET.jpg

Case mod for air flow without the fan.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6.../MMCASEMOD.jpg

Body mod for air flow without the fan. I cut out the front window.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6.../MMBODYMOD.jpg

phatmonk 05.26.2008 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 176758)
The ceramics show about .005 ohm or so. The inductor isn't as compact as the capacitors because there isn't any inductors as compact as the capacitors -- not really sure what you mean. The smallest 22uh 4 amp inductors are at least 10mm square.

The FETs are snubbed using an RC snubber -- to prevent ringing.

The component that is failing is the switcher controller -- a National LM3485. National is looking into it with us -- seems the overcurrent circuit is failing internal to the LM3485, and leaving the chip in constant overcurrent state. That's why the output voltage drops to 1.08V - -it's in hiccup overcurrent mode. Replace the LM3485, and all works well again.

Patrick

Thanks for your personal involvement in this issue Patrick.Both of my Monsters have died you guys received one of them last wednesday and no one has called me so I am assuming you ars fixing it.It will be interesting to see how long it will be till I get the first one back.I will be sending the other one in when I get the first defective Monster back.I now have no speedcontrols so pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease fix it soon.

thanks
Will

dubkatz 05.26.2008 09:15 PM

hey sparky the spot on the case, is that burned? from that component getting that hot? Or is its rubbing? the later seems unlickely, but...........

Sparky 05.26.2008 10:23 PM

The marks are from rubbing.

e-mike 05.26.2008 10:37 PM

this mmm is completely nude:surprised:it look like my old mm:lol:no fan hole in the case...wow im scared just to toutch mine:mdr:

jhautz 05.26.2008 11:01 PM

Sparky, I have the same problem with my case rubbing on the board components. Like yours, my fan plug has broken off, and I was showing wear on the black component also. Instead of the gasket to raise the board I actually took a dremel to the inside of the case bottom to remove a little material from the inside of the case to create clearance where those components were rubbing. My first MMM already had the broken fan plug by the time I found the problem. My 2nd MMM is holding up fine without any rubbing or breakage yet. Both fans are dead already though. I just pulled the stock fan out of the case and strapped a 25mm fan over the vent holes in the top of the case and plugged it into the reciever. I was tempted to do what you did and cut the case (only even more so than you did) but I didnt want to have to worry about voiding the warantee with the way these things seem to be dropping like flies. So far so good for me though... I still have 2 out of 2 running fine with the exception of the fans. (knock on wood:tongue:)

glassdoctor 05.26.2008 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhautz (Post 176911)
I still have 2 out of 2 running fine with the exception of the fans. (knock on wood:tongue:)

Oh, sure... now you're in trouble! :mdr:

jhautz 05.26.2008 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassdoctor (Post 176914)
Oh, sure... now you're in trouble! :mdr:


:lol:No doubt... I was really hesitant to even post that. Just seemed like bad Juju.:oh:

glassdoctor 05.26.2008 11:34 PM

Both of mine are still working too, but I wouldn't actually say it. Opps... :whistle:

phatmonk 05.27.2008 04:12 PM

Castle sent me someting today via USPS we will see if its my first failed Monster fixed or replaced.I am gonna send the second failed Monster back today.:whistle:

RBMike 05.27.2008 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatmonk (Post 177113)
Castle sent me someting today via USPS we will see if its my first failed Monster fixed or replaced.

Same for me, good turn around. I sent mine in last Monday.


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