Here is my Z-car and I also got a box full of spare parts.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05265.jpg

is it being discontinued at hobbypeople?

dumb question, but when you moved the chassis brace, did you need to drill a new location or just use different holes, and, could you use the stock chassis brace or did you need to use a tubed brace?

You won't be needing them. I have not broken a single part on mine, aside from two bent shock shafts and a front CVD shaft is slightly bent.

nope not being discontinued. no one ever bought them at $360 or $460

ok. Very tempted. Does this vehicle try to centralize the engine like the eight and other cars? curious how the battery pack placement would go.

This buggy does centralize the engine, by tilting it inwards. Thus the rear brake has to be mounted on the rear diff.

Battery placement is cake with this buggy.

Cain, I had to move the chassis brace over because I needed more room for my TeknoNeu 1515 brushless motor. I could not move it over enough to use the smaller pinions, it would hit the chassis brace. To move the brace you need to cut a small slot on the bulkhead brace for the top mount. I used the tubular Kyosho rear buggy brace because it lined up with the existing hole in the chassis. The stock brace when moved over did not line up with any of the existing holes. If your going nitro you want to leave the stock brace where it is.

dyed those ugly stock yellow wheels and wing to black for 1.39$ thank you Rid dye
(disregard crappy glue job, and writing on tires)
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/blackmags.jpg

Just an update. I ended up picking up some associated brown (stiff) springs and used ofna spring retainers to hold them in. The stock upper retainer fits the springs fine, and the ofna ballend retainer fit the stock ballend fine. The buggy is alot stiffer and does handle alot better. I filled the front with 50wt and rear with 40wt. I haven't gotten my body painted yet, but I took it out and did some very small jumps on a 1080 ramp into some grass. The buggy does jump really nice and feels like it has alot of control in-flight.

I managed to flip it couple times, scuffed up the front shocks and wing a bit, but nothing broke. Popping wheelies is definitely cool, but i'll probably be tuning the ESC a bit to tone it down. I'm not going to play with it hard until I get the body on. I don't want to break any of the electronics, if I flip it.

How do you guys land huge jumps with buggy's? I want to hit the jumps at a faster speed to get more air, but I'm afraid of bottoming out and banging up the chassis.

I found a small indoor track near my work, I'm going to see If I can race it there.

thats some nice info there trike about those springs...I need to get a stiffer pair myself as well. I got an email back about those one springs that look like the Z-car ones that are flared in the center that A main sells, these ones http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12695 and the dimensions are Inner diameter is 17mm both top and bottom, front and back. They are 71mm long (front) - 90mm long ( rear) Can anyone confirm these dimensions might work? Ill be checking my buggy tomorrow.

I forgot to take some pics comparing them, I'll to get some later. but here's what they look like on the buggy.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/780-2/IMG_3870.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/772-2/IMG_3874.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/776-2/IMG_3873.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/784-2/IMG_3868.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/788-2/IMG_3900.JPG

Early I mentioned that the shock valve on the stock Z-Car didn't look very effective, because it had holes in it. I have been using shock valves in my Kyosho and Revo PE for a while and decided to mod the Z-Car shocks to incorparate a true valve. I took some Traxxas variable damping valves and added them to the stock Z-Car shocks. The Traxxas valves are solid and block most of the oil flow for true valve action. The small screw used for the stock valve keeps the valve flap from rotating away from the holes. I had to drill out the uncovered hole to adjust the main flow rate (since the two other holes are now covered I needed to increase the main flow) I started by drilling it to 2mm. I can now definetly feel the valve action on the rebound stroke. I like to have more compression damping, and a faster rebound damping, with no valve the damping is basically the same both ways, with a true valve you can adjust the compression damping to suit your needs. As soon as I can find some stiffer springs I will test it out on the track.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05302.jpg
Stock Z-Car shock pistons with Traxxas variable valve added. You can see the stock Z-Car valve with holes in it.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05310.jpg
Valve, stop screw and a new 2mm hole.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05303.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/Image2-1.jpg
Hard to see but I am checking the valve action with a small pin. Valve open.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/Image1-4.jpg
Valve closed.

Have 1 of these. Don't plan on using mech brakes so i didn't install them will that be a problem seeing that u installed them, although i see ur not using them. (no brake servo or linkage) :yes:

I'm just about done with the body. I'm going to dye the wing black and get some black wheels for it. Here's a preview. Turned out pretty good, considering this is the first body i've ever painted.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/836-2/DSC_7384.JPG

Really look good :yes:

Damn that body is tits, one of my co-workers might use his mad airbrush skills and paint my Zcar body. Which exact associated springs did you use?

Cool, I'm happy with it now. I'll have to switch wheels when I actually go race. Stuff gets caked on pretty good between the spokes. Here's a few pics before I start driving and racing it.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/847-2/DSC_7422c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/850-2/DSC_7461c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/853-2/DSC_7497c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/856-2/DSC_7549c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/859-2/DSC_7567c.jpg

Thanks for the comment!
I had to search around for the part numbers for the springs, since I lost the packaging to them. But these should be it.

They're RC8 Bronze springs.
ASC89188 Team Associated Front Shock Spring (82) (RC8)
ASC89193 Team Associated Rear Shock Spring (70) (RC8)

I don't know any details about the springs, if anybody else knows anything about them, please share. I think they can be stiffer, but they do handle alot better than the stock springs. Though I'd like to try the progressive rate springs.

Thanks for the info trike, also what wheels are those?

Well here is my competed rig. [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/Assocsc8.jpg[/IMG]

Here is my competed ZZZZZZZ ![IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/P2122066.jpg[/IMG]
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/P2122063.jpg

a guy next store to my work got the sh z car and i build it for him and made it brushless using mikes motor mount and battery tray with a mmm/2650 combo and 4s 30c batteries. and i have to say it was pretty nice. it had the stock 3000weight diff oil in the center and felt really good.

it made me re do my diffs in my rc8. going from 30,000 to 7000


But i have to say for only 200$ this car is pretty nice and hey they are still on sale!

Bumping it up. I've wanted a race RC for some time now, was thinking about 8ight but they are expensive from the US. Found a LRP S8BX roller for sale for 70€. It's supposed to be the same as this ZMXB-8.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/rc-car...y-rtr/details/

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9783/snc00309.th.jpg
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/153/snc00308c.th.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3792/snc00306q.th.jpg
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/7493/snc00305.th.jpg
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6976/snc00304.th.jpg

Is it worth the price? (might get it a bit lower)

It's got a broken wing, the clutch bell and the body are bad and it's missing a spring. Since I'd convert this to brushless that's not too important? LRP also sells its own E-conversion kit but I don't know if I would use it. Are spares easy to find in US shops? (for the ZMXB)

It's a very good buggy, mine still hasn't broken anything other then 2 shock shafts and it has had bent front CVDs. I don't know how much 70€ is in USD but that still sounds like an excellent price.

http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3729

Good?

What are some compatible harder springs?

That's a great deal for a motor. As for springs, I think earlier in this thread it was mentioned that RC8 springs work on stock shocks if you get the RC8 lower spring retainer. It might have been brown springs all around that work well.

is there anywhere you can still buy this Z-car online? it seems very rare but i like how its unique. came across it in an old rc mag tonight and thought i would try to find one online. lucky for me i found the great thread on RCM. great looking rides everyone. where can i get one?

I think HobbyPeople still carries them (and parts). Every month or so they have them on sale, and I have seen them for as low as $199.

Well unfortunately Hobby People discontinued the Z-Car line due to low sales. The low prices they've had on the kits and RTRs have been to blow them out. It's sad, but you can still find the buggy under the LRP brand (at least in Europe).

Hey you don't have to give up on the Z-CAR. They are still available in US and Canada. The Canadian Dealer is www.terranovahobby.ca
Check out this post by the Terra Nova Hobby Team racer about his Z10XB http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...-sh-z-car.html
I have a new kit here that I have thought about converting to BL (for someone else) I am still a Nitro Adict.
The Z-Car Truggy should also be an interesting conversion because it is basically the same setup as the buggy.
I run the new Z-CAR Buggy, The Z10XB.
http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata...ges/977399.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata...ges/977417.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata...ges/977400.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata...ges/978236.jpg

LRP / Z-CAR Brushless Motor Mount
 

Hey, does anyone else know where I can get a Motor mount for the ZMXB-8 Buggy. RC-Monster does have 1 in stock but when I went to purchase it, the shipping was way too high. Because I operate a website also, I know this is sometimes a mistake.
I have sent about 5 e-mails to Mike @ RC Monster, but no reply.

I just ordered the LRP S8 BX. It was like 35% off in a norwegian store. I think building/converting a brand new kit is one of the best things in life:party: I can't wait. I will let my dog, Doffen, give me the car for christmas:tongue:

From RC Monster I ordered a motor mount, batt tray and MMPro. I have some castle/neu 1800kv motors, in both 1512 and 1518 size. I am planning to run 6s lipo, so I may have to move the rear brace. Looks easy to do from the pictures.

Thomas G

I have built my Z-CAR ZMXB-8 Buggy and I put in the Brushless mount from RC Monster. I am new to Brushless and probably won't keep this buggy. I love the noise and smell of nitro, and after 10 years, you become addicted.
What would be a good ESC/Motor for a buggy like this?
Is there a way to run the Mechanical brakes or do I just use the motor for brakes?

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/media/k...8_Stettler.jpg

Wait until you try brushless, you might not have such a hard time giving the nitro up! :wink:

Mamba Max Pro and Castle or Tekin buggy motor (1512 size) is a good combo for 1/8 buggies.

I will not give up nitro. I enjoy running the nitro. I have a Losi Strike with a Dynamite fuze BL and it is fun for a few minutes, but then I put it away and take out the Nitro Buggy.

Batteries are a great invention, for flashlights.:lol:

LRP buggy in da house:yes: Got it yesterday, but didn't start building because I would have to clean/tidy my workbench first. I have my own system, that most people would call a mess:wink: Today, after some thought, I just made the kitchen into workbench number two:lol:

Starting build now, I will post pics when it starts to look like a car.
Hope my RCM stuff comes before I finish the build...

Thomas G

Here is my Z-Car with the mech brakes hooked up. Its a little hard to see but I am running a brake servo just behind the ESC. Because the Z-Car runs the rear brake on the rear diff the motor has plenty of clearence.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1010021-1.jpg