Oh wow! It's been too long since I last worked on this project. I've been way too busy for the past few months. My school year is coming to an end next week, so I think I will finally get this project back on track. Since the last update I unfortunately haven't done much. :sleep:
I'm planning on having a crude mockup of my chassis in a few weeks here, then I will follow that up with the slipperential, then the motor mount/esc mount after.
I am also thinking about getting CEN GST wheels an Tires to match the scale of my truck better. Does anyone have any experience with these wheels?

If I am not mistaken, lincpimp is running those tires/rims on his Savage. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Alright, well here's a bit of an update. I just finished drawing a mount/chassis brace for my slipperential as well as a motor mount. If anyone has any suggestions on the design of them let me know. I'm going to get started on the radio and battery tray next, then the chassis last. Please tell me what you think! Thanks! :wink:

Slipperential Mount/Chassis Brace
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ialMountV1.jpg


Motor Mount (6 holes on the back that face the TVP to adjust gear mesh)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...torMountV1.jpg

Not a big update or anything, but I am out of school for summer and I'm getting a protractor this weekend so I can draw the TVPs in Solidworks. My front and rear end are sitting here waiting for all of the stuff to go in between them. They now have the FLM hybrid bulks, and they look just amazing. It's nice to think that this project is slowly getting closer and closer to being finished, it'll get there, I promise! :yes:

Ah, good idea with the protractor! I while ago I too was going to make a chassis for my Savage, but couldn't figure a good way to base it off the stock chassis. Thanks for the idea!

Haha yeah, the places on the TVPs that mount to the bulkheads is the hardest thing to reproduce on the chassis, otherwise I can do whatever I want to the middle, really. I have the idea for the chassis in my mind, but I just need to recreate how it attaches to the bulkheads.

So the drawings are coming together, slowly. I'm almost finished drawing everything, but I'm a bit stuck on what to do next. Is there anything special I have to do to SolidWorks files in order to be able to run them on a CNC mill? Also, does anybody know of a someplace or somebody that would be willing to do this? (There's probably going to end up being 6 or 7 pieces)
Cost isn't really a huge problem at this point, as I've recently sold a bunch of my old junk, and I really just want to see this thing finished. :yes:

Mike can do it for you! :yes: He is quite busy, so it may take a little time. but when it comes to machining, he IS the man. :yes:

Alright, I think I will shoot him an e-mail once I finish the drawings then, thanks. :smile:

I'm so close to finishing the drawings! :yipi:
All I have to do now is to finish the chassis, and then modify some of the existing drawings a bit, then add a few more bits into the assembly to make sure everything is going to fit. I'm leaving for Canada this Wednesday, so I hope I can finish either tonight or tomorrow. I'll post some pictures of the assembly when I am finished.

Well, I have decided that my SolidWorks hates me. :whip:
It's crashed twice now, and of course it always crashes at the worst possible times. I'm going to sleep now(almost 5 am, wow) :sleep:
I'll finish up the little bits (all I have left, really) and post some pictures tomorrow.

Well, I finished the drawings (for the most part). My SolidWorks keeps crashing because my computer hates me, so I'm done with it for now. All I have to do is add some holes to the TVPs, and add a section on the top electronics plate for the ESC/BEC (when I decide what ESC I am going to run, I don't think I want to use the BK 3695). Other than that, the drawings are done, sorry I couldn't get very great angles, I'm pretty bad with the displaying of things in SolidWorks... :oops:

General View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...Drawing1-1.png

View from the side with one TVP hidden:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...geDrawing2.png

View from the front:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...geDrawing3.png

So I'm redoing the drawings in SW so the chassis can accommodate 12s and a new motor I just ordered to power this beast, a 1527/2D. The LMT motor is going to be put to use in another project... :whistle: I'm also going to go with mechanical brakes (brake bias woo!) and a HV-110, I really don't want to use the BK in this, and MGM's are just too dang expensive, and apparently the software has problems. I am also making the wheelbase shorter than the last drawings I did, so the wheelbase should be very similar to the FLM extended kit. I thought I wanted to make this truck into something resembling a 5th or 6th scale, but with the recent headache of trying to find a place to put my Baja, I think I'm going to tone it down a bit. Although with this new power system, I hardly think it will be toned down! :lol:
The only problem I can for see really is that I think that I am putting a bit too much weight in the rear of the truck, but we will see. I can always modify these new drawings I am working on to adjust the balance a bit. My personal deadline for these new drawings is 1 week from now. Once I finish these, there will be no more changes and they will be sent somewhere to be machined, and I will (hopefully) have my Savage I've always dreamed of!

So, I now have a question:
will this thing have too much power?
I'm afraid...

No, it will be fun power :lol:. I still have to try my 1527/1.5Y in my BPP truck. I tried my 1521/1Y with 10S that was still geared for 6S and that was too much. You will have a good time with that set up.

Lutach, that BPP truck is your major test mule eh? 6s gearing on 10s?! Jesus.
E-Traxxer (sp?) What are you going to put the Lehner in? Hope you have fun with this thing, It's gonna be NUTS!

The Lehner will end up going in another savage project. (I have a Savage XL I want to convert).
I have a question though, does anyone know of a BEC that will take 12s input voltage?
I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Quark-Pro-BEC-5A...QQcmdZViewItem , it takes up to 55v, but it's only 5 amps, would that be enough? I'm only going to be running one servo (Hitec HS-5955TG)

I wouldn't use that BEC. You could try this:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...BEC_for_Lipoly

That thing is only rated for 42v, I think I would fry it on 12s.
I'll just go with a receiver pack if I can't find one.

It was nuts. I ran it today really quick to show Arct1k how it is. Too fast and it puts down montrous amounts of power.

Well I just got the HV-110 in the mail, and all I have to say is... DAMN!
If there was a car version of this with a hard case, it would sell like hotcakes. This thing looks like a monster, the 10 AWG wire helps, as do the 6 capacitors. Now I have to wait for the Neu and order a PiStix and I will have a ton of power in my hands. :party: I already feel naughty! :diablo:

I have the HV Hercules BEC it is rated for 60v I havnt used it yet but its in the plan with a HV110 ESC...heres a link

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=4667

Oh nice!
Will it be enough though with only 3.5 amps of cont. current?

That HV-110 is very nice in the Savage... It's extremely smooth and the power delivery is perfect when you get it set up. Feels just like a car controller aside from the lack of motor brakes.

I think so, especially when you will be pushing 40+ volts through it, if your not comfortable with the Hurcules HV they do have a higher amp model but the voltage goes down and also there is the Koolflight

heres the Hercules 5 amp 45v model
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=4666

and the Koolflight

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ubec.htm

Good to know :yes: I think I will like mech brakes more than motor braking anyways. They just have a different feel.
I'm itching to get this whole project done, but I still have to wait on a few components to get in before I can finish the drawings. I'm sure I'll have it finished somewhat soon though.
As for the drawings, I have the motor mounts 100% done, and I am looking to finish the battery trays and the components going along with them tonight. So far I'm on schedule. :wink:

Oh, also. 12s fresh off the charger turns out to be 50.4v
The HV-110 is rated for 50v, although it says it will handle 12s. I should be fine, right?

Castle has a tendency to under rate thier products, and if there is a problem it probubly wont arm but I think you will be ok

:yes:So, I have, for the most part, finished all of the basic drawings. Everything is blocky, and there are no holes placed yet, but everything is in place. I have run into a bit of a problem, though. I can fit on a rear brake on the center diff without any problems, but I will not be able to fit one on the front unless I extend the chassis another 20mm (40mm if I want equal weight distribution). The chassis is already extended 62mm longer than the FLM Extended TVPs, so I really don't want to extend it any more. So I am thinking about putting a brake on the output of the front diff. So the question is: does anyone know if there is an existing kit that will allow me to do this? I've done some searching around, but I have had no luck. If there is no kit, I can probably draw one up in Solidworks without too much difficulty, but that means that I'd have to wait longer to finish the drawings, because I'd have to order brakes and measure them and such.
Thanks!

Here are a few pictures of the basic layout for those interested, it's all just basic blocks right now, but I just want to get everything ligned up correctly before I do the holes/reduce the block-age. I personally like this layout much more, plus there's more power in it! I think tht this is just cleaner too, it was much easier to work with SW the second time. If you have any suggestions or anything strikes you as possibly a weak link, let me know.

Trimetric View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV21.png

Front View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV22.png

Side View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV23.png

View without the battery covers or gears (at least, the cylinders that take place of the gears):
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV24.png

And here is what I have for the speed calc, I can get anywhere from 10:1 to 25:1, so I have enough gearing options I think. :yes:
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.3636363636363636363636363636364
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 38
Pinion Tooth Count: 17
Total Voltage: 44.4
Motor KV: 1150
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.9
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 100
Motor coil Ω: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.24 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.47594 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.68 inches (550.6 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 51060 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 59.98 mph (96.34 km/h)
Estimated Adjusted Speed: 55 mph (89 km/h) - 8% loss
Effective KV Value: 1150
KT constant: 1.18 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.61 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 10.7 ft-lbs
Final Power: 4440 watts (6 HP)

Looks real good, ive been watching this thread and can't wait to see this finished product, should be really awesome :intello:

One question, what difference is there between running a 1527/1D (2300kv) on 6s and a 1527/2D (1150 kv) on 12s. They'll both be running the exact same rpms, will one get more runtime or pull more amps or something??

cheers
jordan

Thanks! I can't wait for it to be finished either. I'll have it before the year ends if I want to fulfill my New Year's resolution (which I very much do, :) )

From what I know, (which isn't much compared to a lot of people on this site) the more volts a system runs, the more efficient it is. I don't really quite know why, but I think it is because a higher voltage system will pull less amps, causing reduced heat and less power loss. Also, (from what I know) in order to get the same performance, the 1527/1D running on 6s would require the batteries to provide more amps, so to match the performance of the higher voltage system, you'd have to run 6s2p. There is also the matter of watts, too. If the 12s setup pulls 100 amps, and the 6s setup pulls 100 amps, the 12s setup will provide more power. Granted, the two motors probably wouldn't pull the same amount of amps, as far as I know. Maybe somebody else can clarify for you as I'm not 100% sure on most of this, haha. :neutral:

I also just like running Higher Voltage setups because they are a bit more unique. :wink:

The higher the turn on the motor the higher the torque. A HV set up will run more efficient and will require less AMPs to produce the same power the 6S set up would.

One example is, if you want 3500 watts out of both set ups this is what you need to do:

3500/22.2=157.66A (You'll need 157.66A to make the 3500 watts)
3500/44.4=78.83A (You'll need 78.83A to make the 3500 watts)

AMPs is the cause of heat, not voltage. So by lowering the AMPs used, you'll also lower the temps and make for a very long lasting set up. Too bad ROAR can't see the benefits of it.

Here's what I gather about the good and bad om amps (very basic but typically true):
More amps: more power on less voltage, more heat, less runtime.
Less amps: same power on higher voltage as hi-amp low voltage setup, less heat, more runtime.

True, but we need to add battery capacity into the mix. Let go with 4S since that's what the racers are using. They'll need 5000mAh+ to get a 15 minute main done. With 6S you might need 3300mAh+ to get there. Now I'm going to try 8S and 10S and I might only need 2200-2600mAh.

Oops! I forgot. You can actually end up saving weight with the lower mah batteries.

Yes. Most people will also drag the price issue, but when it's all said and done, the price will be somewhat equal.

So, I am going with the brakes on the front diff idea, and I'm pretty sure that there is no kit for the savage. Does anyone know of a 1/8th scale buggy/truggy that has a brake on the rear or front diff? I recall seeing it on a buggy, but I forget which one, and searches aren't turning up with anything. Also, will a single mech brake on each side be enough, or should I go with 2 on each side, so they don't fade as much?
Thanks.

Edit:
I see now that it is on the LRP Buggy, and the brakes on that buggy looks pretty good, too. I may have to end up floping the whole design the other way around, and putting the brake on the rear diff though, because I'm not sure if I can clear the steering bellcranks...

So, I think I now have a solution for the front brake. I am thinking about putting mounts for a center diff up front, but not putting a diff in. Instead, I will put in a shaft with outdrives on each end, and mount the front brake to one of the outdrives. If I am explaining this correctly, does anyone see any problems with doing this? It's pretty much a faux-center diff in order to mount the brake.

Like the solid center from Ofna that I've been using in my BPP and Ofna buggy :lol:.

My 8s lipo setup for my savage with the 14xl cost 120 bucks new. I use 12c 3600mah polyquest cells. Can beat 35mins with hard bashing, and even the motor will stay under 150f. All I can say is that hv is great. Can you imagine what a 4s pack would cost to do this? At least double...

Yes, HV is the best. A 4S set up that will give you that run time would definitely cost a fortune.

I'm not sure if we are on the same page. I didn't explain it very well. I'd try to explain it with words, but pictures are even better!

Notice the brakes on the left hand side (rear) connected to the center diff mount like normal.
The brakes on the right hand side (front) connected to a shaft with outdrives on each end.
Between the middle part (where you cant see) would be a driveshaft connecting the center diff to the "faux-center diff" (on the front)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...V2Brakes-1.png

Picture of the brakes on the rear, nothing too special.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...eV2Brakes3.png

Picture of the brakes on the front:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...eV2Brakes2.png

If this makes any sense, it would be using 3 driveshafts total. Is there anything wrong with doing this, as It makes things quite a bit easier for me..