thats me. same avatar, same name, same guy.

ok, for the good of the forum. ezrun it is. heres to you guys!

any 5s experimentation yet?

That makes it easier to recognize folks from forum to forum.

I did the Mamba Max mods for my first 4S LiPo brushess project, but I decided to grab the EZRun 80A for the next 4S project. Just seemed to me to be a better value and less work. Even purchasing a used MM, it cost more to put that system together. The nice thing about using the MM in the first project was it's compact size, giving me more placement options such that I could package everything up neatly on the chassis. Small size would still be nice in the next project but there should be enough room for the EZRun, which is huge!

If the fan fails on the EZRun, it looks like it would be pretty easy to swap in a replacement. Appears to be a screw it on and plug it in kind of deal.

Generally where electronics and computers are concerned, it is the electro-mechanical devices that tend to be the first point of failure from a reliability perspective...assuming the system is operating within design limits. Like with computer servers, things like hard drives tend to fail more often than other components.

good info DARKWAV, and hello to you as well from the other forum.

i was thinking the same thing abotu the fan replacement. seems easy enough to get the fans. another good thing about the ezrun compared to the MM is the internal BEC.

Fans are easy. I've replaced so many fans, I've lost count (these are home-made setups where I made brackets attached to the chassis). Regardless, fans are easy to replace.

Just to clarify, the MM has a BEC, but the EZRun has a UBEC (switcher).

Also, while the ginormous size of the EZRun does make placement more difficult, the additional mass (PCB, heatsink area, and contact area to heatsink) for thermal dissipation should help with heat issues.

right, you are right about the BEC, just wasnt thinking it through, of course it has one.

just not strong enough for 4 cells.

it will be a couple weeks til next pay period, but i will be getting the ezrun 80 amp.

one issue though. how do the motors stack up. is the 2350 that comes with the 80A good for a 4cell buggy application? will adding a tooth or two in the pinion help out the lower KV? and how it the quality of the motors?

has anyone used the ezrun 80A with more potent motors yet? Neu or medusa's?

Yeah, I ran it with a Neu 1512/2d on 4s. Ran fine, pretty smooth once you get over the ~2mph mark (lurches at really slow speed). But gets HOT HOT HOT with no fan. With a fan, it's fine.

cool cool. i assume you mean the ESC was getting hot hot, and not the motor!

anyone have feedback on the ezrun motor. i saw something somewhere about them being pretty decent but cant recall where!

I've seen a few posts of the EZRUN motor for the 150A setup breaking the rotor assembly. Who knows what voltage was being run... but personally I think the Medusa EZ-RUN combo looks the best.

Why I suggest this:
-Medusa has proven quality and track record
-Medusa has a good warranty
-The ESC is only like $80 alone
-Might as well get the ESC alone and then buy the advanced programming card separate since it has more functionality and allows for theoretical firmware updates.

Yes, the ESC. The motor is a Neu, so if that gets hot, any motor will too. :smile:

i like that advice. the medusa motor seems like a much better and tested powerplant over the ezrun one. i can also get just the ESC from Mike, and have a trusted vendor to deal with for both parts.

the advanced program card is easily gotten on ebay, so no worries there. just gotta save the funds,

I'll be running a Medusa MR-3660-2200V2SE-5 with the EZRun 80A in a 1/8 buggy. I have these and all the major piece-parts in-hand, there's just a few minor bits I'm waiting on before I start...well, that and putting a TamTech back together which is currently scattered across the workbench. I feel like this will be a right-size, good value solution at lower cost without really sacrificing performance, quality, or reliability. No need to spend money on a more powerful system if I'm not going to be operating at those levels. I could easily spend as much on a system for a 1/10...actually now that I'm thinking about it, this project, including the used buggy roller will cost me no more than what it took to put together a brushless 1/10 ST a little over a year ago!

I'll report back once I've got this together...maybe a couple weeks or so.

The reports I've seen with failed (completely cracked) rotors was with running 6s on the 2350kV motors, which is 52k rpm I believe (no calculator on me). That's too high for a lower-end motor. On 4s, it's just hovering around 35k and would be mighty happy. I run my 3665-2300kV motor on 4s and it stayed cool throughout the entire run. The ESC stayed around 85F and the motor about 95F.

If you can afford it, I'd definitely get a Medusa motor over the HW EZRun motor though. Medusas are known to be well made, perform well, run cooler than Neu's, and make tons of torque. Having to equip 3 trucks though, I couldn't afford the extra $70+ per truck for the EZRun 80A + Medusa setup. If one of my HW motors fail, I'll probably pick up a Medusa then.

Hi I have a HW 150 esc, I'm quite happy with it...I'm testing it with a 600 xl align motor, it is 1700kv and 6 pole, I'm using 6s lipo.
What do you suggest for timing? Do you suggest to keep it at 15 deg as std motor or to increase as this one has more poles?

I'm quite happy of the HW 80 amp too, I just moved the timing to the first value of the program card...I think 0deg, I was on 4s...ok I was told this was the right thing to do to use less battery...truly it was the right setup to burn the esc....with 15deg timing was running perfect, really i liked it.

So please If you can help me with this align motor I really appreciate I wouldn't like to fry this one.

cheers
Gab

Does the HW 150A run alot cooler than the 80A version? I've managed to kill my MM (with 50% punch control) on 4S on a 4.2 Kg modded e-savage recently and is looking for a replacement.

Regarding timing for brushless motors, a lower timing is used for 2 poles motor and higher timing for higher pole motors. Certain timing is more efficient on certain motors. The default 15 degree timing should be good for most 2 pole motors. According to my mamba max manual, increasing the timing will usually result in a slight increased in speed (I assume that they are talking about the 2 pole MM motors) but the efficiency will be lowered. It is not recommended to do so. It is better to play around with the pinion size.

Running higher timing on lower pole motors can increase the heat substantially. I ran my Mamba Max 5700 at highest timing and it showed an increase in performance and speed but my ESC, motor, and batteries all ran hotter. I turned it all the way down to lowest and the performance wasn't much worse but the ESC, motor, and batteries all ran cool.

Is it possible to have a suggested value for my 6 pole motor or I have to find it with testing? How can I understand if i got the correct value? do I risk to brake the esc or the motor if i choose a wrong timing value?
thanks

I've been told by a very knowledgeable person that for a 6-pole motor, a min of 15deg timing is required.

http://e-savage.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37495


Read the post by Kostaktinos_mt.

Thanks I'm appreciating a lot this help...very interesting what Kost says...
Last question, my motor is outrunner I think the one in that topic was inrunner...does this fact make it necessary modify the timing some more???

There is some differences between HW 80 and 150...for example inner resistence is lower with 150 which means it will stay cooler at same ampere condition.
cheers

I don't believe an outrunner would have an affect on the timing.

Yes, the 150A will likely run cooler in an identical setup as you're stressing the FETs less. Still, I have not had my 80A even break 90F.

Another question as to which esc should I be getting....

My E-savage on 4S peaks at 81A (the highest of all recorded peaks - the average peaks are at 70A) so should I get the 80A HW or the 150A?

Either will work fine. The 150 will just stay cooler. And it will support 6s should you ever want to upgrade.

Hi thanks for the reply. I am wondering about the temp of the HW80A at 80A. Do u have any real data on the temp of the HW80A running at 4S 80A (around 1184w) ?

I have no test data, but transients are for a short period and don't carry that much energy. That's why surge/transient ratings are always considerably higher. The 80A EZRun is rated for 270A surges, which sounds well guardbanded for your 81A surge setup. Continuous currents shouldn't be that high and thus not stress the ESC much.

BTW, how you do guys monitor the current consumption in your setups?
Do you have a datalogger that monitor voltage and/or current with time?

I am using a watts up meter.

You could use something like the Eagletree E-Logger:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...gger&search=Go
Only problem with this is its maximum 10sample/second rate, which means that the peaks it records will still be averages over a 100ms period.

Thanks guys. Doesn't look like either of those would catch a surge. Knowing the duration, and better yet the ramp rate, of the current surge would tell you how much energy was there.

I wonder if I can find one of those meters, either one, used...it'd be to at least know peak current.

FYI - the 150 amp ESC and program cards arrived today. :)

I made a promise to myself that I wouldn't buy anything until my MGT sells... but those are the easiest promises to break...

awesome, now i can get the card, and the esc at one awesome store. good stuff.

Any news on if it handles 5s????????????

I did run it a little bit on 5s. It arms and runs. Just don't know for how long. I didn't want to run it for too long as it was on a 1512/2d and the current would be rather high.

Has anyone tried this with a sensored motor yet?

Sensored? What's that? :wink:

Wouldnt the current be lower on 5S than 4S?

Not if the gearing and the motor is the same. A=V/R. If voltage goes up, and resistance stays the same, current will go up. I'd have to drop gearing and/or use a lower kv motor (increasing R) to reduce current.

Guess you were trying to say (increasing R & inductance) to reduce current. :yes:

lol, yeah, I meant increasing R...original post edited. :oops:

I have an excuse: it was late and I was tired. :tongue:

But Power = current X voltage ---- P=IV

So to produce the same power with higher voltage, current drops. In effect this equation is more direct to the VI relationship than I = V/R isnt it?