yeah, I hear ya.

Cain what body did you get? Since the buggy has no mudguards and the bodies are a little fugly it makes me wonder if Proline is working on a narrower chassis hugging body for it.

Just to let you know that the rear bumper is a serious weak point of the buggy. It holds the whole rear suspension together, it isn't that strong either. It's the same design as on the Hyper ST. One strong bump and the rear suspension collapses. That's why I fitted the Answer RC optional rear toe brace, just a normal brace like on other cars. (It was already fitted when I took the original photos for the 1st page).

Having said this, being hit up the back is quite rare, especially when you have an electric! :intello:

not sure, how can I tell which body?

As for the hopup part you used, is that available somewhere in the USA?

I don't know, I'm pretty sure they're European, so maybe not. The part is the
ANSWER-RC HYPER 9 "STS" SIMPLIFIED TOE SYSTEM - REAR. It costs £17.50 (when I bought it). I'll have a look around for it on Google.

At a guess, they are only really available in the UK. (Typed the Part description into Google, only about 2-3 relevant results). If you want one then the link is http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_in...oducts_id=6896 . I'm fairly sure they will ship abroad, though shipping to the US is probably something they won't have done often.

unfortunately that site only ships in the UK. I'll check around and see if anyone out there has anything similar. wonder if Ectek does?

Really? I'd have thought they'd make an exception if you email them.

I would order it for you through the model shop I work at, but we don't have an account with Answer RC.

I could order it for you if you Paypal me the funds, then I could ship it to the USA for you if you can't find anything similar elsewhere, and they won't ship abroad.

I think I found the USA distributor:

http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/

Though, suprised it didn't come up at all in google. went through about 16 pages of the Hyper 9 site to find it.

Do you know if there are any skid plates for the Hyper 9E out now? I have seen a few for the 9, but not sure if they will work on the 9E.

They will work fine, since the front and rear suspension and steering arrangement are identical to the normal 9.

cool. I'll probably pick those up too.

The U.S. distributor shows out of stock on that item. I had a Hyper ST and the back bumper is actually pretty tough, King Headz will probably make something soon also.

US distributor said about 10 days for next shipment. wouldn't mind preordering if they had that option.

Hey guys, recieved the Hyper 9e yesterday. Just finished building the shocks, they are not the same shocks as on the nitro version. The 9e's are bigger, the nitro version looks like the Hyper 8.5's only threaded. One thing I'm not sure about is the plastic spring adjustment nut, guess time will tell how well it holds up. I got the same body as you guys did, looks like the prototype body of the original nitro Hyper 9 from the early pics of the Hyper 9 nitro.

I'm pretty impressed with the buggy so far, I really like how all the weight is very centrally located on the chassis, not just front to back but side to side also. Nice battery tray and the I like the radio box, I don't think COG will be a big issue since the esc will still sit lower than a nitro engine and tank would.

distributor said they will take perorders, which is why its showing as "in stock". anyone know a working coupon code for there site?

Did you go through the diffs? do they have the upgraded o-rings?

Yes, I did the front and rear diff's, as far as I can tell the o-rings are good, just like any other diff's I've done. They do use a gasket type seal between the ring gear and diff cup instead of the o-rings like on the 8.5 and ST, plus the diff's are alot smaller than any other 1/8th diff I've seen. So no slipperential for the 9e :no:

When I get to the center diff I will post pics, front and rear are back in already.

The cups sorta look like the crt.5 cups? Anybody with a 9e manual handy to check the p/n?

Ofna lists the cups as 29003.

I am looking forward to this buggy, I am really happy to see a company leave the nitro heaviness in tact but rethink what could be a better lay out for electric.:yipi:

Anyone have a pinion size they would suggest for this buggy with a 2200kv MMM set up on 4s? Would like to be up in the mid 40s mph range and keep things cool. Thanks for the input in advance.

The buggy comes with a 14 tooth pinion, 40 tooth spur and 43/11 internals. Internal gears are the same size as any other 1/8th.

i was told that if the seals are red, its the new seals, if they are black, its the old seals.

as for diff comparison sizes, the box has a picture on the box comparing the two, I think I posted a pic of that comparing I am assuming the previous standard size diffs versus the new small diffs.

as for gearing, on a 2200kv motor, the 14T pinion on 4S assuming a 4.5in tire diameter (ala crimefighters) from the RC Calculation website gives a speed of about 40mph. Usually you gear for that speed to start with in general.

I would say if you want mid 40s, go with a 16T pinion

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

too bad the coupon for answerrcusa site doesn't work for anything under $40. 20% off would be nice.

Apparently you can switch the diffs, i.e. side that the ring gear is on. This I would see as beneficial because with the motor on the right side, to spin in the right direction the torque of the motor is going to the right. It would be better to have the motor torque into the center of the chassis, like the nitro cars do. The gears are not spiral cut, and in this interview Tim Bump says they switched the diffs when running sensored motors. I will be doing this and testing it out.:yes:

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/1502216

can you take a pic when you do this? I think I get what you are saying, but A pic would help just to confirm.

Yes I will take a pic. What they are saying is stock, ring gear is to the left, switch it so it's to the right. I need a low speed power drill, diff's are my least favorite thing to do and I was just in there.

Pics, Left pic stock, right pic diff reversed.

Except there's a bump on the inside of the diff housing that prevents this, it can be shaved off though. Used a little router type bit on my dremel to do this.

The bump in question:

Left pic is before the shaving, right pic is after, now the diff housing fits with the diffs reversed.

Confirmed, diff o-rings are red, and this buggy does actually have loctite in some places, but not all.

Good to know. I haven't had a chance to go through my buggy yet.

If you are wanting that answer-rc rear brace, give the usa site an email and see what they can do to hook u up with a discount for the part. I got one on the way now!

Reading up on the Hyper 9, a mod that I am going to do / have done is to use the hyper 8.5 upper a-arms . From what people are saying, once you do this mod, the lower arms seem to hold up better, and, in general you don't break the upper a-arms.

I'll be boiling my front arms upper and lower.

Diff fluid suggestions
 

I have been keeping track of this tread, so much so I ended up buying a Hyper 9E this week. I am fairly new to buggies and was wondering if anyone had any suggests that the diff fluids be changed. I am just bashing around with mine, no racing, so I would just like good level acceleration (No unloading by the front diff on hard take offs) . Any help would be appreciated.:yes:

I race, and I run 5000 at the front, 5000 in the middle and 3000 at the rear. I may not be running as powerful a set up as some, but this stops it from wheelying on high grip surfaces, yet does not unload the diff too much.

I went ahead and placed an order for a variety of spares, and I am going to do the Hyper 8.5 upper front A-arm mod.

Should finally get to sit down with my Hyper 9 when I come home sunday night.

The Punisher II
 

Ok, finished up the 9e today. Now do I take her on her first test drive at the track or wait on the skidplates?:whistle:

More pics.

More...

Looks Great. Ofna makes great products.

I envy you FG101C. You've got a Hudy Set-Up System. That's one thing I STILL don't have...

And,

Run it at the track anyway! 1 race meeting won't do the chassis enough damage to really hurt, in the UK, most people don't use skidplates, and chassis still last ages, (and our tracks are far rougher over here than the US ones)

Ok running the buggy. Good so far, rear end is a little twitchy. Things got a ton of steering. Motor is running a little hot. 1800kv, 5s, 14/40. So the motor and Esc are hot, battery is cool. Does that mean I'm undergeared?

Think I figured it out. This is my second 60mm Medusa and they both have ran hot, 150-165. Maybe it's me my driving style, maybe the Medusa can take it. Anyway, going to put my 70mm 1600kv in and try 14/40.