Yes I forget to type words also, it happens me all time. It would be very cool to have a RC Monster 8th scale CD for the ERevo. We already have the hybrid diffs (been eyeing those recently) so an 8th scale center diff would be awsome for a complete 8th scale drive train. It could even be ordered with the gear you need for either the ERevo or 3.3 nitro Revo.

Truck stand
 

I had this Duratrax Pit Tech car stand I wasn't using so I modified it to use with my truck. It just needed a stronger base and to be a bit taller. It is sturdy and swivles on a bearing.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...uck_stand1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...uck_stand2.jpg

Should I wing it or not?
 

I got this VW Baja body. I have a simple theme for it that should be cool. Now that it is trimmed, I am wondering if I should use the wing or not. With no wing, I think it looks good, the body is very strong and the top is high above the motor so I bet it will protect the inside of the truck. Also without a wing, the truck would be a little lighter. But since this truck is mainly used for racing, I wonder if it will affect it's jumping characteristics if there is no wing. With the wing, I would have to loose the body's engine compartment completely.

I don't know :neutral:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_vw_baja2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_vw_baja1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_vw_baja3.jpg

i think you should not use the wing with the bug body. do you have any video of ur truck in action?

use the wing it will look like its very competitive but your still there to have fun lol

I'm there to have competitive fun :mdr: I will keep the wing off to start and see how the truck reacts in the air. I don't think it will make a big difference. I'm going with an Herbie the love bug theme with a twist by the way. Since this truck was named ''ERBE'' (E Revo Brushless Edition). ERBE is the official name, I don't care about the other names anyone can come up with, ERBE is official :tongue:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_1aef38ad.jpg

E- slayer
 

I have a e- slayer roller if any body is interested I'm asking 275.... I have the 3.3 motor as well that has never been ran other than the break in.. Cjmc4chris@gmail.com

MC or any one else, this weekend , I took out my 1/8 scale CD, and replaced the 30k oil with 50k oil, the reason I did this, is i wasn't happy with the front unloading a little in the front end when I was running on the track, and so far I'm happy with it's results....MC, what are you running at this point?

What's with the for sale ad? :oh:

sjcrss, I was a bit unhappy with 30k also so I mixed 30k and 50k to get around 40k and tried that. Then I did the same thing you did and just put 50k in my CD and I am still running this to this day. It still unloads, although much less, but wheelies sometimes so with some throttle control, I like it better with 50k.

Work began on the Baja body today, I found some pics of Herbie the love bug on the net and did what I could to replicate the stripes and the 53 number. I also made a special ERBE decal. I printed the decals on cheap photo paper and glued them on the inside of the body with XXX Main Lexan picture glue. I have to let it set for 12 hours. I hope Disney doesn't sue for Copyrights.

I couldn't find rattle cans of the exact color for the body, Herbie is painted in some kind of Pearl grayish white. So I'll try a thin coat of white backed with silver in hopes that it resembles the real thing. I will also have a light gray patch on the roof to replicate Herbie's soft top. You probably notice that I didn't trim the body on the lines made by Proline, it just hads so much struture to the Baja by leaving a little Lexan all around. I also left a lot of Lexan below the doors to cover the ERBE's battery doors.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe3.jpg

Thanks for the info about the oil, so far I like the 50k, but like you said throttle control is still needed, as i can still wheelie if I'm not easy on the throttle....the body looks great so far....looking forward to seeing it finished....

what gearing are you running in your e-revo with 4s?

im running the following setup
20/68 gearing
using my 1/8 scale CD w/ 50k fluid , that MC is using the same diff as well

I couldn't wait 12 hours for the picture glue to cure so as soon as it felt cured enough, I put a thin coat of white and backed it with silver. The pics show the body whiter than it really is. I'm satisfied with the effect of the white and silver, it is very light gray like the real Herbie and has a definite pearl sheen to it. I like it. The body doesn't come with a wing, in the scrap Lexan left after trimming, I saw a piece that could become a wind for it so I made it but left it clear.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe4.jpg

looks good. i can see some of the pearl color in it

that's tight mrcrash I'm liking it alot!:great:

Racers' opinions please.
 

Thanks guys, I went racing this weekend but couldn't convince myself of running this body yet. :smile:

I am wondering after this weekend's race. After a 15 minute main, running Neu 3900 mah 4S in parallel, geared for 40 mph, My whole system was pretty hot. Motor 185, ESC 165 and batts 130. Ambient temperature was in the mid 80s, I have holes in the body for ventilation. The track has a new layout with two long straights that lets the MMM breathe almost to max rpm. Could it be that the CD, which always unloads to the front a bit more to prevent wheelies, puts too much strain on the system because it revs too high a lot of the time especially if the CD unloads too much in certain parts of the track? Because of the loss of traction due to the CD unloading, I think more throttle input is applied trying to get the same amount of acceleration as with a solid axle in the tranny. Does this make sense? I know my gearing is fine, I absolutely know that my drive train rolls very freely with no biding anywhere.
I seriously think that with the MMM's torque, a CD may not be beneficial and a solid axle with better throttle control might make me faster with lower temps and less strain on the MMM and batts.

What is everyone's take on this?

MC, im not sure what to tell you about the CD, im running the 50k, and my front end stays down pretty well, as long as i don't get heavy on the throttle...what is the gear ratio for the LST2 diff that you made into a CD?.....that could effect the overall ratio possibly...just a thought is all...

Next time at the track, I'll try a couple things. First, I will gear down to 35 or 36 mph instead of 40 and see what happens. I want to try thickening the CD a bit, maybe mix 50k and 100k to get around 70 or 75k. Finally I will try a solid axle to see how the truck handles.

hey mistercrash, what weight diff oil are you using in your lst2 diffs and what gearing are you using?

Right now I'm running 10k front and 5k rear. I use 54 spur and 22 pinion. I will try 56/20 next time.

well mrcrash..
following in your footsteps ive begun the mods to my revo (2.5, 3905 convert)
yesterday the imperial screws i needed finally arrived and i put in the threaded inserts to the bulkheads:yipi:
bet it's loads stronger now.

and so far for the record ive had about 2.5 hours racetime on the summit driveshafts and they are showing minimal ware:intello:
just a note on the summit shafts tho...there are 2 grub screw threaded holes in the CV's..yet the summit shafts only come with enough parts to put the grub screw in one side only, so if when you do the driveshaft conversion (seems like a good idea to me) try and get some extra grub screws, i have a hunch that they are the same grub screws that come in 32p pinion gears (5mm shaft ones)

gotta save up for the diffs now to copy you some more:lol:
ive only got stocker E-revo diffs (CD too w/ ofna 500k) and i bet they suck compared to the LST diffs.

has anyone tryed the Torsion diffs from ofna or the Losi smart diff in their revo?

shaun

MC your the man, been using your revo as inspiration for mine.. started life as a 2.5r, getting the 3.3 chasis and body, e-revo trans and lst diffs.... not much of the original truck will be left :lol:

also thanks to all the other who inspired my inspiration, linc, sjrss(sp), etc. :yes:

How do you inspire an inspiration?

Thanks for the words of inspire of inspiration, as to B.boy's question about the smart diff, I've been kicking the idea around about putting on in my erevo, using the mod ring gear that i came up with, but i have been talking to the gassers, and they have told me that the springs fail sometimes, and honestly, there is a whole lot of stuff to remove , just to replace the springs in the CD, for now..I'm running 50k in the CD for now...but i will see about the other..I havn't fully committed to it yet....however, myself and MC have info for anyone who want to do the mod to the CD for the erevo....also a great big thumbs up to you MC, for keeping the thread alive, along with the variations of the original design....

why get the 3.3 chassis?
in MY experience hte 2.5 chassis handels better...well on the race track at least, dunno why the 3.3 chassis is always considered to be supirior.
i reckon the best setup you can have on a nitro revo is a 2.5 chassis and mod it to take a rear break kit and CD!! OMG it goes soo much better than the 3.3 w/ CD and rear brake

so i used the same principle and use a 2.5 chassis and a CD.

guess it's every man to themself. :great:


as for center diff..i run ofna 500k in the yuckey traxxas diff and my temps are ok
i'm geared for 45mph ish on 5s w/ the MMM 2200 combo and after the highest load bashing i can dish up the MMM fan only comes on for about 3 secs and motor never gets to 120.
even after a 30 min main race the whole system is cool (120 max motor).
so i dont think the un-loading CD is causing the issue.

Well I never thought this would happen but my 8th scale center diff failed. The diff cup broke. I think it is my fault because I turned down the cup a little bit for more clearance which I'm sure weakened it. So I replaced it with a new unmodified cup and I went to extremes and put 100k in the diff and will see how I like it.

This is what I did to the cup before. The stock cup on the right and the modified on the left. Not a good idea as the whole center part of the diff cup broke off.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_aacc8f9c.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4a80c664.jpg

Are there no alu cups?

I don't think a aluminum cup is needed, i think what is happening, is when MC, does a small modification, like trimming or something ( don't get upset on me), this tends to weaken the part, I have been running my same original 1st prototype 1/8 hyper CD, and havn't had a single issue at all, not even a small one, I inspected the whole thing this weekend when I switched out the 30k for 50k fluid, and saw no visual wear in the cup, gears, modded shafts or reng gear, the bearings all rolled freely as well.

That too...

I haven't had a chance to try the truck on the track but I'm liking how it handles on the street and grass with 100k in the CD. With some throttle control, accelerations are better than before with less unloading to the front. I'll keep on running it to see if I will stay with 100k. Up to now, it's good. I don't think I will ever try to go higher though.

I was at the track today for open practice and I got to run many batt cycles with the repaired CD with 100k. The truck ran awsome, I really like it and I am going to stick with this set up. A lot less unloading to the front but no wheelies. Wheelies only happen on asphalt, not on dirt. The temps were a lot better also with the new gearing. After a 25 minute run of pushing hard, with ambient temp in the mid eighties much like last time, motor = 140, ESC = 125, batts = 120.

glad to hear you found a setup that you like & works for you....for know I'm pleased with 50k in the center for me and with my gearing 20/68 as well. Any more suprise updates coming?

I don't know what I could do or mod on this truck that would be categorized as a surprise update. I'm out of ideas for now. I have been thinking of a 4 mm thick tempered steel motor plate. I don't think the ERBE would even notice the few grams added in weight compared to the double aluminum plates I'm using now. A steel motor plate would definitely not flex like aluminum. But I haven't had any problems with the double alu plate I use now, other than some flexing under hard landings. And aluminum is better at dissipating heat.
My Deans connectors disconnected on two occasions while racing. Now I tape the connections with a piece of electrical tape and that solved the problem but it's a PITA. I'm thinking of going to 5.5 mm bullets but I'm afraid to make a mistake with connecting them when I'm in a hurry. I don't pay too much attention to what I'm doing sometimes and I don't want to make anything go poof :mdr:
Also, I have had one occasion when one of my battery door opened and I was dragging one of my Neu lipos in the dirt :oh: So I want to come up with something that will keep those doors shut no matter what.

Velcro around the battery compartment?

Switch to EC5's or PowerPoles, I heard EC5's are a PITA to remove...

Mistercrash, I had my E-revo out racing last night for the first time and had similar problems. My deans plugs came unpluged multiple times and I had a battery fall out 3 times!! One i didnt notice dragging untill i saw it dangling underneath my truck as it sored over the 30 foot feature jump!!!!!

Luckily the battery survived and is still in top working order, but i will be working on preventing it from happening again as it tends to slow you down on the track.

I was lucky also that my battery didn't get damaged. Love the Pocoyo avatar.

For the battery doors, I thought of a strap of something tough, like Kydex, bent into an L shape. One end bolted to the side of the doors and the other end would have a 1/4 inch hole to snap on a short body post screwed on top of the batt compartment. Once the strap is snapped on the body post, a body clip would go through the body post to keep the strap in place.

I looked at EC5s a few times, seems like good stuff but expensive. I wouldn't mind if I had four or 6 lipos but when you run with twenty lipos and you have to make a parallel connector and the charger plugs to charge two lipos at a time, it ads up quickly. I know some will say that this hobby is expensive and that I should not try to cut costs but I can't be spending money like there's no tomorrow. Can't afford to do that but I still want to be a part of this hobby so cutting costs is part of the game for me. I'm going to try these, I will use the females on the lipos with color coded heat shrink, the kind I get at the electronics supply store, very thick and tough with hot glue inside. It should be good at preventing the two leads from making contact. I have seen others use these bullets with great results.

Why not that velcro for the trays instead of going through the work of kydex?

Those seem to be quite nice mistercrash...

Have you looked into powerpoles? They have powerpole retainer springs to keep them in place, until you pull off the retainer, then you can unplug it...

Looks really neat..

Yeah I looked at PowerPoles too. They seem to be very good and versatile. I don't know, seems like any talk about connectors brings different opinions from everyone and you end up with the same question: Which one to get? :mdr: I tried the EC3... Didn't like them. I tried the Deans... Better but still some problems with them. Now I'm going to try those 5.5 bullets and how I like those. What a great way I have to cut costs eh! :rofl: :whistle: If the bullets don't work out for me then PowerPoles it will be.
I came up with an idea for the batt doors. I should start making some parts tomorrow. I don't want to use Velcro. Velcro is great when brand new, but I find it quickly looses it's ability to hold together the more you use it. Just my personal opinion from personal experience. A tough plastic part that holds onto a tough plastic body post with a metal body clip will hold strongly every time... Unless it breaks. If the little system I have in mind breaks then a piece of Velcro wouldn't stand a chance.

:lol:

That's why you go with industrial strong Velcro silly! :lol:

Do let us know how you like those 5.5mms....

I need to pick up some more 4.5mm for my hardcase to rig up some new connectors!

No Pocoyo! No Velcro! :smile:

I did one side this morning. I used parts of what I think is a TMaxx rear body post. Don't know why I had that. The high lighted parts are what I used. I secured it to the top of the batt compartment with an M4 flat head screw, countersunk in the plastic so that the inside of the compartment stays flat and smooth. I will try thick Lexan for starters to see if it holds up, I cut it in the shape I wanted and secured it to the batt door with 4 M3 flathead screws and nuts. Those screws are counter sunk also inside the batt door. I have a feeling this is going to work very well.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors4.jpg