that sucks! dismantling? why?

Just do like I did, bring your truck to the lhs and kindly ask to test fit the body from one of their 5t display trucks. No display truck? Hopefully they have a new body to try then, again ask nicely and they might take it out of the packaging as it only needs a couple staples to seal back up. FYI the HPI and Proline 5t bodies are precut (all hpi's have a cut out around motor also) and need only a little finishing with a sanding drum for the edges. But being precut makes it harder to make changes in wheelbase, without making the wheelwells huge.

thats a good idea. i was thinking that same thing. my lhs usually always has either a 5t or a 5b on display but when i was in there last week they didnt have one. i will have to stop in there next week and see if they have one in. i think the 5t body will fit but would be nice to check before buying. i recently bought one of those FG Beetle bodies thinking i could make it fit so i paid $140 for it and it doesnt fit well at all so now its on ebay.

I picked up that Neu on Ebay for $377 shipped. Finally got a good deal...

Didn't I read somewhere that RC-Monster Mike is using a Hydra HV180 on his Baja? How is that working for him?

thats a great deal Kaz. are you gonna be converting your rampage? if so, i could have one of these motor mounts made for you. i will post pictures of mine when its done. should be done next week.

got my spur gear today from SDP. it is by far the best quality gear i have ever seen. i am worried my machinist will not be able to drill holes in it. i am taking it down there today so i will find out.

i will post some pics.

mike is using the hydra 180 hv on the baja and said it is surprisingly smooth.

i have learned the hydra doesnt have braking though so that is a concern. i want to build mech. brakes on my rampage but i wanted the esc braking as a back up in case i run into too many issues.

Yeah, I think so.

What size gear did you get? Is there room to get a bigger one? Let me know about drilling holes? I think we will be screwed if he can't drill into it...

LMK about the motor mount.

Are you sure about the brakes on the Hydra? I had one before and there was a brake option on the Castle Link.

PM me your email and I will send you pics of disc brakes on a Rampage.

I think those are drag brakes.

here is the break setup i want to run. this is from a 1/5 Nutech/Smartech. i cant find anywhere that sells parts though except for in AU and it is $50 to ship. however, Redcat becomes the new USA dist. for Nutech next month and then they will have the parts. anyway, i just want to buy the complete diff mounts, top plate, and brake parts and i know i could make it work on my rampage. imo, this would be the easiest brake solution.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=15brakes.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/15brakes.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Can't you just bolt up a 1/8 brake setup?

1/5 scale parts look somewhat larger- remember its alot more weight to stop compared to a 1/8 buggy ot truggy..

although the 1/5 parts look identical to a 1/8 in these pics they are actually much larger. the 1/8 stuff just wouldnt work for reason like neil stated.

anyway, kaz showed me a pic of some integy brakes mounted up to a rampage so i went ahead and ordered 2 sets of these. one for front and one set for rear. i hope i can make them work.

https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...94&p_catid=126


another thing i would like to do but not sure if i will is to get a 1/5 viscous diff like this that is normally used in the rear for a 2wd 1/5 but make a custom center diff mount and use it for the center diff. this unit is for the Nutech buggy.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=15viscousdiff.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/15viscousdiff.jpg" border="0" alt="1.5viscousdiff"></a>

How much is the NuTech diff?

sucks when your only option is intejunk, but I'm sure you'll make them work. Looking awesome, anxiously waiting for vid!

I thought you were on the right track with the neutech setup, looks like a center diff in there too. If you're thinking about doing the rear diff from a 2wd 1/5 in the center, FG/Carson/Duratrax have a nice simple plate mount similar to a standard center setup I'd look into. The mounts are cheap, the FG diffs not so much, maybe the clones would be cheaper.

I hope the baja brakes work out for you. I think the rear knuckle looks like it would be easiest to mount to. And if you keep the solid center drive you'll still have 4 wheel braking, even with brakes only front or rear.

hey,

what about installing the front break at the front diff, like they did it at the rear diff of the lrp buggy:
http://www.hpi-shop.at/assets/own/13...eam_detail.jpg

third pic in 1st row


like that you can keep the motor where it is, keep the rear break at the center. you only need a long, stable pushrod, you probably need to drill a slot into that beatuiful steering-plate to have enough space for the disc, maybe a little slice in the chassis as well. and you need a mount for the diskbrake. it might be very thight, but I think it should work. just take an "outdrive" or diffcup which can hold that disc. dunno how to describe it, but it's not that difficult I think.

it should be lighter and cheaper then these baja/fg-aftermarket breaks. sure, they're cool, but also expensive and heavy.

I don't think you should run a heavy truck like this whith the breaks of the esc. first problem is, there are only a few esc's around for 10s and w. proportional car breaks. maybe a mgm (which I don't favor) or Lutach's esc.

if you go for a boat/plane esc, if they have a break, its like full break or not.
I have a plane esc in my buggy conversion, it's great (solid, smooth, reliable) but the breaks are just cr*p. well, kinda got used to it.
you could take the hobbywing pentium hv, it can handle up to 12s, add some caps, probably a fan, and that's it. the're quite solid and have a good throttle.

btw, I really like that truck!

florian

hey, thanks for the idea. that looks pretty good. i get the break kits soon. just ordered today. but when i do i will just have to play around and see what i come up with. i already have some very long push rods. if i mounted like this i could put one and the front and rear diffs, servo in center of chassis somewhere, and a long pushrod going to each brake from the servo. could work. technically i only need one with the locked center diff but i want to go with 2 for better stopping power. i know the baja conversion with only one disc gets burned up in a few minutes of running. takes a lot to slow down a 30 pound truck from 50mph.

They Integy and RAMTech brakes are mounted with 2 bolts...nice and simple.

so the 36t gear that i got is the same diameter as the stock bevel gear and fits perfect. however you could go larger for sure and get that 40t gear by just flipping the center diff mount upside down. this gives you another 3/8" of room off the chassis. you could maybe even make a 44t gear fit. i think the 40t is gonna be the ideal gear but we'll see how this one does.

dont know about drilling holes yet. the gear also needs to be milled out a bit. it is too thick and needs to have the center section made skinnier in order to mount up right. i hope they can pull it off otherwise its back to the drawing board and will just have to have SDP make a custom one.


here is my 37t spur that i am gonna have made to fit

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01240.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01240.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


here are some pics of the SDP gear.


<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01241.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01241.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01242.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01242.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

HV ESC. anyone heard of this?
 

is anyone familiar with these Navy esc's? this one sounds pretty good.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...i-e046&cat=123

The Etti's are extremely popular and well built! Lots of boaters use them with great results. The CS is pretty good as well.

do these esc's have brakes or not?

That gear is big. Seems like the whole thing could be thinned out,maybe 1/8, and then a smaller section out of the middle "counter sunk" where it botls to the locker.

Is that gear hardened?

The sdp gear will not be hardened. May be the only issue with it, depending on what pinion gear you plan to run. I would leave it full thickness, or only mill it down to match the teeth width on the rcm mod 1.5 pinions.

Yeah.

i am just gonna do like what you said Kaz and mill out the central area of the gear so that it sheds some weight and mounts up properly to the drive shaft but still is very wide. it is not hardened but i have to tell you it seems way stronger/harder than the gears that i have that are hardened. plus, there is a company here local that i could have harden it if needed but i dont think this gear is gonna have any issues. and acutually the rcm pinion is wider than this. the sdp gear is 10mm wide. i havent measure the rcm pinion but i would guess it is about 14mm wide.

You realy need to get it hardened... its very easy to do if you have blowtorch, just heat it untill it starts to go from red to white then drop it in cold water and thats it.
You might want that spur last longer than pinion, so it should be hardened.
I have hardened HotRacing pinions and those last just long as other hardened.

I had an etti, but blowed it due to wrong gearing... the throttle curve was a bit strange to me, but I probably could have played a bit more w/ the settings.

as far as I remember, the breaks were similar to my plane esc's in my buggy, break automatically when throttle is in neutral position. I think, compared to my plane esc the breaks were more instantly. I guess, they're well manufactured. but it got warm. they claim to have high quality and ultra low restistance stuff, but it didn't stay cooler than the plane esc.

those breaks are not a permanent solution; I had the 200a plane esc as a short term thing (which became permanent). modded w/ some caps and a fan very solid, good throttle etc, but the breaks just suck, when you don't keep the mechanical breaks.

to be honest, in every day use, I don't see any better performance then my cheapo-plane esc (200a, looks like a suppo, dunno if it's one).

about the hardening, take it to the local shop to get it done properly, it's not that easy. they should do that for a few bucks, regarding how expensive this hobby is, its worth it. go with the pro.

Hi mate,

Great thread! I've been wanting to convert my 5B for ages, but the motor mount is the biggest issue for me :(.

Anyway, with regard to looking for a digital servo, is it for steering or brakes or both? I run one of these for my steering and it's been bulletproof.

Multiplex Rhino Digi 4

Even when the steering linkage or servo saver gets jammed up with mud and stuff, servo keeps going.

wow, that servo is fast. so 200oz is enough huh? i hear lots of good things about the rhino. is it large size or regular sized spline? and do they make HD alum. servo arms for it somewhere?

i dont think i have a torch that would turn this gear red. what kind of gas?

To harden gears, I thought you were suppose to heat it up and drop it into oil..

you need carbon to harden steel...

You heat it up until it is red and non magnetic (going to have to check) then clench it in oil. then heat it back up and clench in water.

Using just water DOES case harden but not as well as added carbon.


See here
http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/heat2.htm

where would i get this type of carbon?

i think i am just gonna leave this to a professional shop to do but just curious.

is the hardening process what gives it that black coating? cuz that i show my other mod1.5 gears are.

Quench it in used motor oil.

he is correct ^ :)

Do I win a prize? :lol:

Does a poke in the eye with a sharp stick sound OK?

ignore this post. it's not really here.

have it done properly. after that you can be sure that it works. It took you some efford to get the right gear, so it's worth to take it to the shop.

the steel has to have at least 0,2-0,3% carbon to get hardened like that. It's a process on (at least) the surface of the material, it doesn't get the carbon from the oil, you can also take water (wich needs additives due to the boiling).

afterwards it needs "annealing" or tempering, that's what you usually do after hardening, the surface is just too hard and like glass. annealing makes it kinda "flexible". that's what they do with alloy after welding to get rid of tensions. eg. cannondale (bicycles) do it like that.

That's the usual process when hardening knives; when you miss out on annealing, the knive breaks like glass.

thanks for the tips. i am gonna have it done at a shop cuz my torch wont even get the gear red. or even discolor it at all. needs to be much hotter than propane flame.


anyway,
i have been busy modding my car but my camera is having issues so i cant take pics. as soon as i get it fixed or get new one i will post lots of pics.

put on baja 5b shocks on the rear so far. the difference is night and day. waaay better than the rampage shocks and have 6mm shaft so no bends or breaks will happen.

installed aluminum spindle carriers.

heat tempered diff outdrives. (something i learned from the rampage forum to increase their strength)

modded front bumper to look more like a truggy bumper

a few other minor things. today i have a ton of parts arriving. i think my 4 wheel disc brakes get here today. i hope so.

my speed control gets here mid next week and motor mount and spur gear should be ready about then also.

i am really trying to build this thing to drive as much like a 1/8 truggy as possible. i dont want a huge sluggish monster truck. i am installing sway bars and also droop limiters. both of these will have to be custom made but will help the handling a ton i think. without the droop limiting this thing sits so high and will handle poorly. i want to get it so it sits pretty low to the ground for improved handling.