does UE a-arms fit the FLM hybridbulkhead?

Some clearencing is needed.

hmm.maybe not the best option?i have find a guy with a lot of stuff...a lot of UE stuff

Billytrucks is your best bet or go on the UE forum In the bst forum. Lot of parts availiable there.

i have a contact!!
what do i need to do with the UE arms to fit the hybrid?

Do a search on UE'S website.!!!

what to do? its 3 weeks ago i gave mike my list of stuff... i dont give me any answer!
i think i will order from some other shop..
my problem is the diff. i looked at Front/Rear Differential Lightning in mikes store but it is out of stock and i cant find it anywhere. is it an old model?is it possible to use the "pro" model:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLGX0&P=SM
pinoin:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJBM3&P=SM

i will use MMM 2200kv combo and i think i will use the gearing 18/68 in the beggining...

sorry i found it at amainhobbies.
BUT is it possible to use the pro anyway?

EBAY! do I have to say it again? EBAY! Gearing seems too low to me how many volts?

Dont use the Pro diffs, they will lower your gearing too much, meaning you need a tiny spur and/or a huge pinion. Hotbodies lightning buggy diffs work fine, and should be easy to find, if not look for ofna buggy diffs.

18/68 does sound a bit low for 4s lipo, probably about right for 6s maybe (aiming for ~40mph).

To make the UE suspension arms fit the FLM bulkheads, you just need to shave a little material from the arms where the hinge pins go, as they are a little wide for the mounting points on the bulkheads- only a mm or so from each side, nothing major or difficult to do.

okey thanks. what i you gear suggestion when i use 4s?

Are you serious???:surprised:

Asking questions somebody allready asked somewhere else again is OK, no one can read every thread in every forum and memorize it.
But you could at least remember the questions YOU allready asked and got answers to, especially if it was in the same thread:

And yes, Neil is right again, as I was back then: you can't use the pro diffs unless you use a center diff because otherwise your gear ratio would get messed up.


About you order: You sent a PM to Mike telling him that you sent him an order via e-mail?

68/24 = 33mph on 4s lipo
68/18 = 37mph on 6s lipo

Thats with 1/8 buggy diffs & the 3905 tranny + 5.9" tires (stock 3905 sized).

With truggy ratio diffs (pro), you need a 24 tooth pinion on 6s lipo to get 38mph; on 4s lipo its pretty much impossible to get a workable gear ratio.


Ebay is the best place to look for the diffs and certain other items, dont get too hung up with wanting to buy new items/ kits from the big hobby stores- save yourself some money.

yes i have send mike 3-4 PM but he dont answer me... i will order from someother shop

if i order at ebay i maybe save som money but teh shiocost to sweden use to be very high.i save more money when i buy everything in the same shop and pay one shipcost..

Better to contact Mike directly- here, though if you use a free email acount like hotmail, messages often get trapped in his spam filter. True about the shipping issues, but certain parts like a complete transmission will have to come ebay- some sellers do charge way too much for shipping, but others can be alot more reasonable (check ebay.co.uk along with ebay.com).

now i ahve order almost all parts i need.
i have 4 UE shocks and 4 black and 4 blue springs. harder springs in the rear? and shoch oil, on UEs websait ´the recommend 60-70wt oil. do i have 70 in the front and 60 in the rear?

now, battery....are this one okey?http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=9172
will they fit?are some other at hobbycitys sait better?

Those batts will work but I recomend the 30c batts over the 20c. Though I think sombody tested them out on rcm and figured they are the same batts.

I would use a pair of these in series, or if you want some serious runtime and better lipo temperatures, a pair of these in parallel. They're so cheap its worth thinking about.

As for shocks, I believe stiffer springs in the rear yeah, but Im not sure on the oil weights- might be worth having a read of this suspension tuning guide:

http://www.myrcbox.com/?p=955

it will be the 2s i series, thanks for the link.

i wonder if i sould by 3s... 2x3s=6s. is it possible to run the car with 6s or will i break my car? its alot of power...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=9515

Which esc were you using again? If its the MMM2200kv combo, then it will be alot of power, but also lots of fun. 4s is good for general bashing, 6s for speed runs, but I have found 5s lipo to be the perfect mix of power and speed.

The lipos you linked to would be fine, or a combination of a 2s and 3s 30c 5000mah to get 5s total (truck wont be unbalanced as the lipos are so light).

All depends on what you plan to do with the truck, and how much room you have to use it in- a tight street woudl be better with 4s, but a big open field or gravel pit would be more fun with 5 or 6s...

i will use MMM 2200kv combo
i will drive my car in big fields so i think 5s sounds very nice.how should i gear the truck?any suggestions?

Start with maybe, 18/68, see how it feels and what the temps are like, then bump it upto 22/68 and check temps again. What I did was buy all the available spurs that will fit my tranny, and then picked up a 20 & 24tooth pinion, giving me a wide range of options to tweak the gearing based on the temps and my driving abilities at that speed :lol:

3 pinions is usually plenty and they will last a very long time if you get hardend steel versions and use plastic spurs, say 18, 20 & 24tooth, then all the spurs for the 3905 tranny (62,65,68tooth). From what I understand, a smaller pinion than 18t wont mesh with the 68t spur, so that will be the lowest gear ratio you can run, probably good for about 35mph or so.

what temp. should the motot have?

Motor = maximum of 180*F, ideally in the 120-160*F range.
Esc = maximum of about 160*F, ideally in the 100-140*F range.
Lipos = maximum of about 120-130*F, ideally 100-110*F.

An infrared temperature gun is a very important thing to own for this purpose.

i will soon start to build my truck

set up suggestion:
7k front diff
3k rear diff
60wt shock oil around
black springs around( UE supershocks)
6s lipo 20/68

other suggestions?

Nope, that looks like a fine list to me :yes:

Picking a shell will be the next hardest thing, but thats more about personal taste- pretty much any 1:10 - 1:8 scale truck or truggy shell can be made to fit...

i am not shure about the batt. 6 or 5s? yes i know that neil recommend 5s and i think about it. but, i guy in my rc-store said it wasnt possible to make a serie with 2+3s.
or maybe use 5s and put it in parallel.
this:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=9175
or this:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=8589
or this:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=8585
the question is, will it be to heavy with dual 5s? and should i choose 30 c instead of 25c?


yes the body is my problem now. i really like the "suv"look. ex. proline escalade or hot bodies dodge durango hemi body. but i cant find them. i bought the hemi body from the "quich tech hobby" 18/9 but i havent get it yet... have mailed them 5 times...
i have 1980 Chevy® Pick-up from proline but i dont like it.

i like the truck look more than the truggy look.suggestions?

The guy in the store is WRONG, you will have no problems at all using a 2s and 3s lipo in series, just so long as they are both the same brand/age/specification, and the total voltage doesnt excede 6s with the MMM. Wiring a 2s and 3s is no different than a pair of 3s or a 1s and a 4s, just different total voltages; dont ask for advice from a hobby store, only go there to get parts, otherwise they will happily sell you any old crap just to get rid of it- thats what forums are for = lots of second opinions and experienced users to seek help and advice from (unless you're on the traxxas forum but thats a different story... :lol:).

All you need is a Series harness to wire the lipos together & to the esc.

A pair of 5s lipos (parallel setup) isnt a bad idea though- I love my hobby city lipos, but I do run 5s2p myself, as I prefer the extra capacity and greater overhead in terms of current draw that the esc may demand. Given the cheap nature of hobbycity lipos its no bad thing to run packs in parallel, though with better quality hyperion or thunderpower packs etc its not something to worry about- those brands can more than handle high current draw withut having to parallel the packs together.

Personal choice really- I would say that anything 25c or over will be more than find in a 5s2p setup; I dont get lipos temps above 110*C ever, and you know how heavy my truck is (13lb). The Flightmax packs get good feedback and have been around a little while now, the Turnigy packs get equally good feedback and are slightly newer > personal choice again, take a look at the feedback for all of them. 30C is always worth a few $ extra though in my opinion. As for weight, a single 5s pack weighs about the same as a 6 or 7 cell nimh pack, so running 5s2p is no worse than having 12-14 nimh cells, a very common setup and not that bad for weight really.

If you paid for that missing body with paypal, then raise a dispute before the 45day limit is reached, or if you paid via creditcard, raise it with the credit card company and you *should* be able to get your money back for non-delivered goods.

Bodies... towerhobbies has a lot of the Proline & hotbodies ones in their 1/10 & 1/8 bodies section, though neither of the exact ones you want- still worth having a look though, some nice ones in there. I would also try Amainhobbies and ebay as a last resort- a general search for Proline should turn up more results than a specific search for those exact bodies, especially seeing as how people like to right really poor descriptions for that vital part you are searching for usually... :no:

i was thinking put the esc wires togheter in a serie and then have 2s+3s.but if i ues 5s2p in parallel i will get a longer time to use the car. 5s2p 5000 should be over 1h to drive.
i will use 30c

i found this store:http://www.stormerhobbies.com/
anybody used them?are they okey?

thank you neil for all your help.

Yeah Neil you are an assest to this community. *Tear* and round of applause :na: LOL But seriously :yes:

I wish I had more time to contribute but so often I only have time to read through the threads and little time to comment, not that I have all that much to offer.



Looks good to me!

All 8 shocks right? I think thats best. I use a similar setup on my Maxx and 4 shocks just doesn't seem to be enough for any jumps.

I can't remember if you've mentioned taping the tires. It will greatly help with handling at high speed especially since you are running 5-6s. Duct tape works great, but fibered(stranded) packaging tape works even better as it is lighter.

:lol:

Stormer hobbies is fine so far as I know.

You will definately get plenty of runtime with a 5s2p setup- I havent managed to run my setup continuously until the lvc point since it tends to overheat the motor- have to take cooling down breaks.

In that case, a parallel harness is what you need- I would use either deans or traxxas plugs as the premade harnesses are easy to find, though I personally use 5.5mm god bullets > personal preference really any and all of the mentioned plugs will work fine, though I would replace the plugs on the lipos is they uses cheap deans copies instead of genuine ones.

i think i will go for 2s+3s in serie, if you(neil) say its okey i belive you.
i will just use 4 shocks...
what abuot tape the tires?how?why? just ordinary plastic tape on the inside?

As for the batteries, yes, it is definately OK.
Tapeing the tires: I turned the inside out, cleaned the surface I wanted to put the tape on with alcohol. After that I took duct tape and put it on. You should put the tape on straight so you don't get a too bad unbalance. I first taped one half of the tire (like left half or right half), without overlapping the tape at the ends, because my tape was too narrow to cover the whole tire. Then I taped the other half starting the tape on the opposite side of the tire (take where you finished the left/right half, then turn the tire 180° and start the other half).
After that I wated a few secs, so that the adhesive of the tape can connect better to the tire and turned the outside out again.
After that I put some holes into the tire for venting the tires, but this depends on what sort of rims you use and on your personal preferences.


Edit: It worked great! No noticeable unbalance, and absolutely no visible balooning.
The tires do get a little "stiffer" though, but I don't think it's too bad...

is it possible to put the diff in the wrong way in to the hybridbulks?what way should i put it. anybody understanding what i mean..?

Jep, I understand.
You have to put them in the oposite way in each bulk.
Let's say you put the spur gear to the right side in the front, then you have to put the rear diff in with the spur gear to the left.
Or the other way round.

okey thanks, the important is that they not are at the same way?perfekt

Exactly, otherwise the front wheels would spin the other way round than the rear wheels do.
That wouldn't result in too much movement of the truck ;)

Help
I have FLM hybrid bulkheads and RPM arms. included with the hybrids i got pins for the lower arms. what should i use for the other arms?
can i use Traxxas Suspension Screw Pin?
or can i use Lunsford Racing Titanium Hinge Pin Kit T-Maxx 2.5 (8)?

hmm is this right?
is it just the output that stop/keep the bevel gear to go in the diff?

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010037.jpg

I used a set of hinge pins for the top arms from a stock based ride.
The drive cup is what keeps the bevel gear from going deeper into the house.