It's the HPI Baja 5B body. :) Check out my gallery (http://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodo...x5BConversion#) for some more shots of how I mounted it.

Right now I'm using the ProLine 23mm hubs that are wrapped with some metal tape to get the "fit" snug. I, like probably most folks with conversions, are waiting on the 24mm hubs from HPI that are still on backorder.

keep in mind that the hpi 24mm hexes for the savage 5t are for 6mm axels not the 8mm axels that are common on most 1/8 scale trucks

Thanks, but they aren't the 24mm for the Savage 5T.

These are the 24mm hubs I am talking about:

http://www.hpiracing.com/press/102530.html

Well after four bash sessions, here are some pics of my collection of broken parts; both the front and rear I managed to destroy, but the rear was worse. Needless to say I've gone to the "bullet proof" diffs, we'll see how long they last.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TB...576/Whoops.jpg

Then over the 4th, I landed a 6' air jump or so on the left rear and snapped the axle at the thread.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TD...0/IMG_4983.JPG

In addition to the broken axle, I seem to be running through Pro-Lines 23mm hex adapters. IMO they aren't very good as they remove too much material; while less unsprung weight is good, if it does not have enough strength then its worthless. The HPI hub adapters (http://www.hpiracing.com/press/102530.html; if they ever come out) look to be much better as they have a set of 6 holes to help lighten, but it still leaves lots of material for strength.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TD...0/IMG_4986.JPG

However they also suffer the issue of being mounted on the vehicle via the threaded end of the axle shaft.

Think I'm going to see what Mike might be able to do to mount the http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIC5357&P=7 24mm Adapters from the Baja. They have a 4mm pin that goes through the hub so that should be stronger. Issues are that the axle shaft would need the pin hole drilled out to 4mm (shouldn't be too big of an issue with a drill press) and need to have a 8 to 12mm adapter sleeve. Would also need some type of end cap that would screw onto the end to keep the sleeve in place and relieve some stress off the pin.

Also considering just switching to the Pro-Line Trencher 3.8" All Terrain Front/Rear tires. They are about the same size as the rear Baja 5b; 6.88 vs 6.89 but a bit wider, like 3.43 vs 3.3 (or 2.6 for the fronts). Should be a bit lighter then the Baja tires and they run on the standard 17mm hexes, which are dang cheap. Won't get the staggered width size thats the "buggy" look, but oh well.

Still, need to get either a 4mm, or perferably a carbon fiber, chassis instead of the 5mm; think the latter is overkill and adds too much weight.

Some other thoughts would be to run something like http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWSY0&P=7 on at least the rear end to keep it from dancing around; would go with the HPI suspension kit, but you really can't get spare parts for it without buying the entire thing again.

Be nice though to get some front/rear hub carries that can handle a 24x12 bearing, then just run the http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIC6488&P=7 rear axles from the Baja; would just need to have a new dogbone that had a 11mm ball on one end for the diff, and 15mm for the axle on the other.

i was thinking of the same using the Axial 40 series wheels with the proline trenchers - That way i'd still get the offset

http://www.axialracing.com/tools/loc...cb2172324c.jpg

Keep us informed. I love this thread.

If you are doing standard Flux stretched, the offset is probably needed; mine started as an XL so it doesn't really need the offset... really I'd recommend getting wider axles as opposed to offset wheels. I don't really care for the Axial wheels, at least the beadlocks; have a set with some BigJoes sitting in a closet.

my 5t conversion also has been having problems. went through 2 standard drive gears till i switched to a HD drive gear, that problem fixed. I broke an axle also, but up where the dogbone goes into the axle, one whole side broke off.

i'm having steering problems also, i have standard diffs and have heard putting some heavy diff fluid in will help with steering. Nothing stripped out in the diffs but may go to bulletproof next just in case. i did find both of my bottom arm pins on the front were bent, as well as the aluminum arm brace was screwd up so that may be doing it also.

just seems alot of problems come up when all that weight gets added on.

Too heavy of diff fluid will actually hurt the steering, not help it.

Are you using the Flux axles or the HD axles from the XL?

Well the Savage was designed as an 8th scale vehicle, not a 5th scale... :) So unless Mike is going to wow us with a 4WD mod for the Baja 5B/T now that his electric conversion is out the door... we're stuck.

i've got the hd axles in it from an XL

what weight of fluid do you think would be good? i ordered some 30k, was going to do that in front and back, some people even suggested 50k in front and 30k in back, but i didn't want to just jump into 50k without trying something a little lighter.

one last question, when upgrading to bulletproof diffs, do all we need to change is the two gears on the outside, or are any of the insides different on the bulletproof diff? just need to know if upgrading my diffs is better, or if i should buy full bulletproof diffs off ebay.

also want to let you know i use the integy axle carriers for the rear, and its nice not having to worry about toe links in the rear. i had a couple hub carriers break at the spot where the toe link connects to it, havn't had a problem with the rear since.

now its all the front thats causin headaches. i also need a better servo, but will wait till my hpi servo breaks before i spend the cash for a good hitec or something.

i run 30k front and back... 50k in teh front will kill your steering and is way to thick.
You could run 30k front and 50k back if youwould like... Would give you some nice oversteer which i prefer with a longer truck...

The BP Diffs will hold up nicely, but i did manage to break a pinion but that was because i landed on throttle very hard... Otherwise you should have no problems

If i were you, you will soon find that the tranny will be the weak point for all the power... You will prob need to eventually look into a centre diff mod.

You should get the RSC Savage suspension conversion by HPI.... Increases steering and is very strong so no more probs with your hub carriers.

I love those baja wheels and tyres!!! They look great! But i hate the beadlock design... Im hoping some baja rims will come out without them...

To upgrade to the BP diffs, all you need are part #102692; it is just swapping the ring and bevel gears, all the internals are the same.

I've been running 20k/10k. Here's some info on what increasing/decreasing the thickness of oil will do:

Front

Thinner
• Increases steering into corners (off-power)
• If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,
especially it can lose forward traction (and steering)
during acceleration out of corners

Thicker
• Increases stability into corners during braking
• Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Rear

Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner

Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin

Most truggies run between 7k and 15k in front, and 1k and 10k in rear from what I've found (results may vary). I run 10k/30k/3k in my RC8Te, so I basically took roughly the same ratio and went up in thickness due to the weight of the vehicle, although I may reduce it to 15k/7k.

The tranny should be fine under 6S power; there are some benefits to going to a center diff, but it is also not a straight forward mod either [either you end up running really large spur and small pinion, or you need to do a gear reduction of some sort].

Jahay, I know about the Savage Suspension conversion kit; pricey and undoubtable decent, but try finding individual parts for it *if* something does break is nigh impossible (try it for yourself; go to amain, tower, stormer, horizon, etc. and see what you find... not the entire kit but just say a rear hub) so that makes it much less of a quality upgrade.

Hmmm i never thought of getting parts for the conversion as a problem, as they are readily available here in the UK. Plus i think its going to be nearly impossible to break the front or rear hubs anyway from the testing i have done so far... I have broken the upper arms multiple times, but i found out that i could use the same parts from the adjustable a arms that HPI sell anyway...

Ah, ok. Good information, may go that way instead then since I am leary of Integy.

I don't know about the rest of the parts, but the Integy rear hubs for the Savage have gotten pretty good reviews from the people here. For $20, I'd go this route for the R hubs.

You still have this 5B? I just bought one off of ebay and I'm trying to gather as much info as I can. Great build though.

This isn't a HPI Baja 5B. Rather it is a HPI Savage Flux converted to 5th scale to resemble the Baja 5B.

But yes, its sitting on my floor with a broken axle.

I know, I just bought a Flux with the TCS kit. Looks just like yours. Just wanted to see how many fellow Flux 5b/5t owners there are.

Well I got them... with the Tech 5 wheels (glued, not beadlocks) the weight differences are:

ProLine 3.8" Trencher: 15 5/8 oz.
Rear Baja ProLine BowTie: 20 3/4 oz.
Front Baja ProLine BowTie: 16 3/4 oz.

The Tech 5 wheels have basically no offset, the ProLine Baja Desperado wheels have like .5 offset.

Here's a shot showing the difference between rear Baja BowTiie and the 3.8" Trencher.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TD...0/IMG_4988.JPG

wow the trencher is huge and lighter!!! must be the beadlocks right?

I'll be very interested to see what it looks like with the tires on the car?

Well the wheel is a bit smaller in diameter, but yes I would say some of it has to do with it being a beadlock. The wheel was also designed for a heavier vehicle than the trencher/tech 5, so its a bit sturdier which typically means more weight.

Sure unsprung weight isn't the best, however to some extent its not the "devil" its made out to be. The 5mm thick stretched TVPs are actually worse for the vehicle than the heavier wheel/tires.

Question to a fellow 1/5 Flux owner. Does your TCS kit have all of these sideways TVPs stiffeners or did the previous owner of my buggy add those?

I want to mount my batteries inside the chassis, but two of the posts are in the way.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...x/IMG_4989.jpg




OP, more questions. What foam did you use on your roll bars and how is your battery mounted?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/S7...0/IMG_4924.JPG

Yes....came with lots. I only use a few. See my gallery link in original post. Has lots of pictures on how I mounted my batteries internally. I used some rubber from some wire I bought at HomeDepot.

Thanks. I just took a few of them out including the front diagonal piece. Got it looking like yours. The battery tray should be simple enough to make. I'll be using velcro straps to hold them in place.

This thing just rocks:great:

Personally I think the cage is to big and too far fwd... Waiting to see the FLM version...

The purpose of this kit isn't meant to look like a 5B so the position of the cage doesn't matter. Its probably in the perfect spot for a 5T body.

Only thing I'd like to have different is the position of the transmission and motor. Have those moved further up because mine still pops wheelies on 4s.

Hopefully moving the battery forward into the rails will help.

Actually the cage is smaller, but yeah it is forward. Probably is prefect for the 5T body; but I personally didn't wanna pay 125+ for a body! And the 5T wheels are like 7.5" diameter as compared to the 6.9" 5B wheels... think 7.5" might really be pushing the Savage a bit too far.

With FLM you might be waiting awhile, we'll see. Mike is supposedly doing one too.

I don't use any of the plastic cross bracing anymore. :)

I'm running 5S on 47/18, but I also have like 20% punch. Gearbox could be moved forward a bit to allow for longer motors. However, that would interfere with the 'stock' battery boxes.

I had noticed that too, but the previous pic thzero had with the body and the wing evened it out quite a bit. Still a bit long in the rear section to me, but still looks really good and a very nice build.

Really the only thing that really bothers me is the hideous stock radio box in the front. Needs to have something more streamlined with the rest of the body, else covered up

Very much waiting to see what Jaime comes up with.

No stock radio box showing here. :)

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TB...0/IMG_4965.JPG

Mikes not making one, Jamie at FLM is - The prototype was being cut this week and shipped to NJ ;)

Ah. Got any details on it?

Well some more pictures because the HPI 24mm Hex Adapters finally came in. These are pretty nice, much better than the ProLine stuff, but not sure if they'll cut it or not as they have some of the basic problems due to the axle.

Nonetheless here is a pic of the comparison showing the difference between the HPI 24mm hex adapters and the ProLine 23mm hex adapters (wrapped with metal tape). The HPI units are definetly bigger and beefier. The pin area has plenty of material surrounding it so should help some of the issues I was having with the ProLine units where the pin would end up spinning inside the adapter. See the http://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodo...27172706040626. The HPI nut is also segregated which is a nice touch.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TE...apters.png.jpg

Note that the ProLine adapters do not spin freely when you slide them onto the axle. I've tried using different lubes (Gorilla Snot being the best) to try and allow them to slide on and off easier but to no avail. The HPI adapters spin and slide on the axle freely so there should not be any issues.

And then another shot of yet more damage caused by ProLine adapter issues...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TE...Damage.png.jpg

Here's also my current thoughts on a design to allow the 24mm hex adapters from the Baja to fit on the Savage. Why? Well because the Baja units have a pin through design, and also a 4mm pin vs. a 2.8mm, which should help keep the pin from spinning inside the hex adapter and causing damage ala the ProLine unit from the link above. Also it would perhaps help strengthen the axle where it is weakest (i.e. where the hex nut screws onto the axle).

Drawing of how a system might be constructed to allow the Savage axle to support using the 24mm hex adapters for the Baja. The Savage axle is 8mm, but the Baja hex adapters expect a 12mm axle. So we basically have a 12mm OD (8mm ID) sleeve that slides over the Savage axle, and a endcap that screws onto the Savage axle. The Savage axle would need the pin hole bored out to 4mm rather than 2.8mm it currently is to utilize the 4mm pins from the Baja.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TD...SavageAxle.jpg

The other way to go is to just get some custom C-hubs made that will take a 24x12mm bearing (as opposed the 16x8mm bearing from the Savage) and run some custom dogbones that will have one ball for the Savage diff cups and one for the Baja axle cups.

nice1... first time i have seen them... They def look like a quality part!

Yeah they do. Just my concerns with all that power going through the small pin.

I also heard from Jamie at FLM; he did say that the FLM conversion is in the works and that he would see what he could do about the axles!

The axles and pin never seemed to be a problem, but i guess when the truck is this long and the added weight... The truck does definitely need stronger, thick axles with a large pin

Pretty sure you mean serrated.... But segregation is often handy too, just not in rc!!!!