I just got my 1410 sidewinder combo 3800kv to drop in my rusty $97.00 shipped now this boggles my mind though $110.00 for a 1406 motor alone or 97.00 for a combo with a sidewinder.......is there that much of a difference between the 1410 and 1406 motors besides kv and a little longer can??

I'm not complaining by any means just curious as to how one motor is $50.00 vs the $110.00

I killed it!!!!
 

wow this came as a huge suprise to me today. This would be the third thing i had break in a couple days counting the fridge, my thumbwheel on my dx3s and now my beloved 1406 has jumped on board and decided to give me s#!% too. This being the only of the three i couldnt fix is whats pissing me off. This thing has ran like a raped ape from day one but today I switched the rash over to my dx3s and was setting the endpoints and what not, calibrated the speedo an picked the truck up to see how the startup was with and without load. Motor was making horrible noises so i shut her down right away. upon further inspection a found the rotor very tough to turn so i opened her up and this is what i found inside(see pics). The center race and the cage and all dropped out after i took the photos and now the outer race is stuck in the motor endcap. CRAP!!:whip: Havent checked but does castle sell rebuilds for the 14xx line yet? or will the cm-36 style rebuild work?

We do not offer the 1406 motors in a combo, they are only available by themselves; whenever we combine a motor and ESC, it is always cheaper than buying them individually. And keep in mind about 70% of our cost on the Sidewinder SCT is in the motor; so when we offer the 1410 3800kv by itself, it would be more than $50.00.

But yes, the only difference between the 1406 and 1410 motors is the kv and length. So if you don't need a higher kv motor and the 3800kv will get the job done...get the Sidewinder SCT combo and get a good ESC with a great motor at an amazing price. :)

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations

Eep, that's some bad bearing failure right there. That kind of thing really shouldn't happen; but unfortunately when you build enough of anything, there are bound to be defects. What Kv was this and what battery were you using it with? I think they might be the same endbell/bearing combination, or if they're not the same they may still be interchangeable; but I'd have to wait until I'm back in the office to do some measuring.

Strangely some retail sites are listing the 36mm rebuild kits as discontinued and they are not on our website either. This is news to me, so I'll have to look into what is going on when I get back in the office as well. Hopefully we'll be in tomorrow, but it really depends on how much more snow we get and how well they can get the roads cleared. I'll let you know as soon as I can. Thanks!

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations

Cool thanks Thomas. It was a 4600 on 2s. Same motor and batt setup as in the first post on this thread but it's been in my 2wheel for the last month or two. Was kinda strange too, raced it on Friday night and all was good. Let it sit until I screwed with it today and it gave out. Better than it doing it flying down the track though!

Can I use the 1406/1Y 4600kv in a 6.5lb car like the 3800kv on CC site is rated at?
I plan to use it with an MMP also.

I ran it in my 4x4 slash in the first post on this thread for about a dozen races. It was right at six pounds but it was purely for tourture testing purposes. Never ran hot or anything like that and had tons of power. Not sure if cc would recomend it but if you know what your doing you can make it work.

+1. You can do a lot of things we don't recommend if you know what you're doing and know what warnings signs to look for if something is being stressed. As a blanket statement, we say the 1406 is not to be used in a short course truck, use the 1410 or 1415. But if you gear it correctly and monitor motor temps carefully, it should be able to produce more than enough power. Just don't try running it on 3s or try gearing it for 50MPH and you should be just fine.

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations

What? Do you mean I can't go 100mph+ with this setup? That's just bull! Can I use three of those motors on a Sidewinder then? C'mon, I want a super fast vehicle without spending over $200. :sarcastic:

Seriously, no matter how hard you guys try to idiot-proof your stuff, there will be a bigger idiot out there. :lol:

Heeeyyyyy I resemble that remark!!! Anybody know where I can find an front endbell and bearing for this 1406? I know cc has been closed cause the white stuff lately so I will call them later. It just pains me to see a cc product sitting in my pit bag not out there tearin it up.

To be honest it was exactly what I was thinking, but sometimes you want to hear others confirm your thoughts, so I do appreciate the feedback.:yes:
I plan to be conservative as the results allow and then go from there. :whistle:

Anyone know if the cm-36 rebuild kits are still abailible? Can't find em anywhere. Was hoping they would work on the 1406 front endbell. If not I'll have to hit it with the heat gun to get the old bearing out..... Should be fun!

Unfortunately the 36mm motor rebuild kits have been discontinued. You may find some still floating around some of the resellers though.

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations

Ran the 1406-7700 last Saturday but still wasn't able to make any worthwhile passes. Was sluggish off the line and then came on like a freight train after about 25 - 20 ft. Not what I'm looking for in my dragster or funny car (motor had similar performance in both). So I stuck a 4S pack on there and same thing happened. Only this time, the freight train was a bullet and car was uncontrollable after the initial launch...

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...gsterwreck.jpg

Watch the reflection of the tree on the body, lower left corner.

Thankfully, the only carnage was the front wing mount and the body got torn up a little. Electronics are all A-OK.

Ouch! Could have been worse I guess.

I've got the 1406 5700 combo on order for my LCG Slash. What pinion and ESC setting would you recommend to start off with?

ben

The 4600 was quit enough for the lightish 2wheel sc but with good throttle controll the 5700 would work too, just be ready for wheel spinning power. I would start around 18-21 maybee. Not sure. I have a 8.5 in my lcg now at 21/87 and it's plenty fast, but it's a two pole. I would start with a 18 and go from there with temps. Good luck!

Hopefully I can dail it down to where it is controllable. I wanted more motor than was necessary so things could run real cool. I wasn't really taking into account the 4-pole differences though when deciding.

ben

The higher kv motor will run a little hotter than a lower kv one but in such a light car I don't think it will be much hotter. The four poles makes it alot smoother and stronger on the bottom than a two pole IMO. Have fun with I and post a pic when ya get it all together.

My order is on back order. So I asked Dena if she can change it to the 4600kv combo. We'll see what she says.

ben

Right on man, the 4600 rocked in my lcg. Ran sooooo cool and made so much power. Can't wait for the rebuild kits to come out so I can use it again. You will love the smooth power and low temps.

Well, even though yesterday I was told it was on back order for two weeks, Dena emailed me today to tell me the order already shipped. She offered that I could send it back and exchange it. Is it worth the hassle do you think?

ben

Idk I like my rigs fast. You'll be lookin at around 40k rpm with the 5700. Quite a bit but not too much IMO. You run on a fairly big track? You could always limit it with the esc settings like max throttle or torque control. Punch controll is horrible for racing from my experience but to each his own I guess. I would run the 5700 since you were planning on it anyway and just see how it does. It will definately be fast!

I've ran the new 7700-0m9wTf in a Sc10 for a spell. Some kids watching me bash, asked if the truck had a turbo, I said "yes it does", I couldn't stop stabbing the throttle. At 12/87ish 2s the rpms sounded wicked. I overheard another racer ask his friend after seeing it excelerate(high grip track) if it was a 4x4. He didnt understand, It's a Castle 1406!

This Bud's for you Patrick and the Castle Creation team

I would go 4600 for more voltage options.

Slim,

I agree punch control is terrible -- but the new "torque control" option is AWESOME... give it a try.

Patrick

I agree with Patrick !
torque control is really great !

Well, because Dena was kind enough to do an exchange, I sent the 5700 back. It means I have to wait, but it should be worth it in the end.

ben

I sure hope someone has a suggestion for me. I just installed a new Castle Creations 4600kv 4-pole motor in my 2wd Slash. At the same time I changed the diff fluid to 50,000wt and change the gearing to 18/86.

On my test run in the street it pulls very aggressively to the right (to be honest now that I'm back in the house I can't remember if it was left or right) when on full power. I mean it will sometimes just spin out because I can't counter steer it enough. Especially from a stand still. Clearly one of the wheels is getting more drive than the other, but why?

I've checked the wheels and drive axles and nothing seems to be binding at all. There are no weird noises either.

What could be the cause?

I hate tearing into the diff on this truck. You have to remove so much to get to it. Otherwise I'd investigate, but hoping to get some clear suggestions from people who may have experienced this before I open anything up.

ben

I've experienced this where a hub pin is broken and you can't see it until you take the hubs off.
Come to think of it make sure your center drive shaft is working with both front and rear hubs attached properly to the center diff/slipper clutch and the front diff too.
Once a set screw was able to back out and not until I took it apart I didn't see it.

This is a 2wd Slash.

Power seems to getting to both wheels, but more to one of them. If I hold the truck rear bumper, it lays an even amount of rubber on the ground. To me this means neither side is really slipping or losing drive.

ben

It's a 2wd Slash, without diff fluid. The tire that breaks traction first will get all that 1406 power.

I just took the diff apart and it still had most of the fluid I had put in previously. To experiment I put in some HPI diff grease and buttoned everything up again.

On this test run, the problem wasn't as pronounced as before on the throttle, but it was still there. It was especially noticable when braking hard. The left rear tire would lockup but the right would continue to roll. This would cause it to swing left during breaking.

This is going to make driving it in the dirt tricky.

ben

Sounds like your diff is not working properly at all. Under braking if one tire locks up the other should do the same cause the motor won't let anything spin. The fact that one tire still spins is highly irregular. Check your susp for binding and make sure your right side slider is not stripped or the axle pin has not sheared behind the hex. The 1406 put out crazy power and is capable of destroying said parts. I'm still waiting for cc to release the rebuilds so I can get a new front endbell on mine and put it back into my lcg slash for more punishment.

I'm at a complete loss. The 2WD Slash is kicking my butt with this issue. I just checked the axles and pins on the hexes and they are good. No binding in the suspension. The diff gears are all in tact too.

On the bench everything looks like its supposed to, but of course not while driving. I'm having to run the slipper pretty loose to keep it from stepping out while on the throttle. And as I already mentioned, the braking is also making it step out.

ben

Try this, hold the spur and spur side tire and try to turn the left tire. If it turns your diff is shot. If it doesn't spin your diff is good and the problem lies elsewhere. Could be any number of things such as balance, preload on your shocks etc. Asphalt is not really a good testbed for offroad setups IMO. Tighten up your slipper and take it to the track for testing. Honestly I think your just diffing out due to the light oil or grease you have in there. I run 30k in my flm diff and it's still a bit light but gives me the best balance for my driving style. Kinda tough to work with the stock diff but try to find some of ofnas diff grease in 30-50k. Should really help with all that power your 1406 is putting out.

Well, it passed that test too. Just did it now.

I had put in 50,000 wt diff oil before putting the motor in, and it was still acting like this. I only changed it back to grease to try and return to what worked before the motor swap.

I'm going to take it behind my house and play in the dirt a bit, see how it acts.

ben

ben

I just ran it in the dirt. Good news is the motor temp was only 125 degrees and that is all out on some dry dirt in 90 degree ambient air. :yipi:

It behaved much better in the dirt. Still using the stock tires too, saving the new rubber for the track. I didn't get to experiment with the slipper because I ran out of juice before I decided to try. It will still step out on the throttle or on the brakes, but not really anymore than I'd normally expect with a 2WD.

I feel like an idiot testing on the street and allowing that to confuse my results.