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Good to see your still working on this, love how its turning out.
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Weird looking
That channel is kind of weird looking. I think I would have tried to find some way to shape the chasis a little bit to reduce the flexing instead of adding more parts to the setup? That exta aluminum just looks a little bit ghetto to me. Maybe just a piec of althread would not look so over bearing. Just another view or idea. Don't get me wrong we have to find what work for us, but I think I would have found another way. R&D is always a series of trials and tribulations. It is good to see that you have not given up on this.
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Do the U!!!!!!
Compared to a traditional r/c the u looks a little out of place, but for a custom build I love it!:love:
There is plenty of strength there, a few random holes won't weaken anything, I say you cut holes to run wires and further cleanup the wiring. I like what you did with the motor wires.:yes: |
I've seen angle used like that in a few cars. TBH it does look a bit ghetto but it adds so much rigidity. Nice work Brian.
I was thinking of getting some of these baja wheel extenders. I was thinking to use the fronts, lop off the 12mm axle and dill out the centre to suit the lst axle. Do you think this would work? |
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It occurred to me that I could use a sleeve but it would need to be a snug fit to reduce slop.
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But if you want the full extension of these pro-line adapters I'm using, they are a direct fit on an 8mm axle. I only have to add an insert to them when I make them shorter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-23m...item2318c5e810 |
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I actually put a lot of thought into bracing this - as it is a long truck and I chose to use a flat chassis for this build - for the ease of layout. I don't have a mill, nor will I use any machine-shop services for this build, so changing the chassis was not an option. I thought of different ways to bracing the length of the truck. Smaller braces front and back (like on truggies) would not work because it is too long. I thought of doing something down the center on the principle of the ue razorback - but the design was becoming too complex with the center diff and too much material would be used, in my opinion. In the end, the simplest solution seemed best - a top plate, which is all I have here. I couldn't use a flat top plate unless I attached it to the chassis at many points along its length - which I didn't really want to do. Finally, the u-channel is incredibly simple - just attach front and back - and has the extra usefulness of a place to route wiring. I'm still open to buying some different size u-channel (I looked at 1" x 1/8" with 1/2" legs - so lower profile) but this is what I had on hand and decided to try it out. I don't think it looks bad, and in the end, I am going to put a body on it, so we'll see - maybe I'll stick with this and maybe I'll try something else. |
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The price of those prolines is pretty hard to go past:lol: |
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I had some pvc channel that fit over my al channel perfectly - so decided to use it for a cover and contain my wiring and bec underneath:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2705Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2706Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2707Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2710Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2711Small.jpg The receiver will mount on top of the pvc in front by the hole with the wires coming out ready to plug in. |
Caving in to peer pressure? Just playin, the pvc does make a nice cover and finishes it off. Function over Form, but there's nothing wrong with dressing things up a bit at times.
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Anyway, for those of you who want to incorporate this unique design feature into your next custom build, I used: 1"x1"x1"x1/16" aluminum u-channel from McMaster-Carr pvc u-channel from smallparts.com (but order from amazon for free super-saver shipping). I cut the pvc legs down to 1.125" for a perfect fit. |
And for those of you wondering, the reason I switched to a black 1717 is this:
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And here I thought you painted your green 1717. At least wer can get 1717's again
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I finished making a rear body mount with some rpm maxx posts, some pieces of a Baja 5b roll cage, a piece of Al angle (of course) and a piece of lexan:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2733Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2731Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2735Small.jpg I'm using the existing holes in the FG Hummer body. So here's how it looks with the body on: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2730Small.jpg |
Looks like the front posts lined up, that was easy. Not sure how strong those 5b rollcage parts are, but you might want to run a brace from the front side of the Al angle to your U channel. Just some flat stock bolted to the Al angle with a 90 degree bend at the bottom to bolt to the U channel would add some strength there if needed.
Almost there. Love the look! You must be itching to pull the trigger on this thing, I know I'm getting anxious over here! Hopefully I'll find some time to chop my LST in half and stretch it out soon, then I'll have more room for my 1717 and cd. Edit: Nevermind, I see now that the 5b rollcage parts do extend down to where the U channel is. |
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At first glance I totally missed the vertical Baja pieces under the Al angle. I thought nothing was there to support the horizontal pieces which wouldn't be good in a rollover. I did notice them soon after posting though. I know you wouldn't have left it like that either way, but you know how everyone likes to add their .02, I'm not an exception to that one...:whistle:
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I was looking again at the FG Hummer and what they have done with their truck and the body I'm using. Here are a few pics for comparison:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2730Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...R-1Small-1.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...024pxSmall.jpg I made my wheelbase a little shorter than the FG truck to try to match it to the body better. My tires should be almost the same diameter (edit: actually probably not as large - mine are 6.5", the FG's look bigger), but are narrower. |
I think you are spot on with the wheelbase, I wouldve done the same. I like how you have the body almost at the bottom of the chassis.
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Hurry man, I'm so anxious to see this baby run...
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All I can hope is that it doesn't turn out too badly. |
I decided to try some stiffer shock springs since the 5ive-T front springs are only slightly larger than the RC-Raven springs:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2736Small.jpg They may end up being too stiff (11.6lb) - we'll see - but they fit on the LST shocks without modification: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2737Small.jpg I'm also working on some side guards that will attach to the bottom of the chassis and cover the gap between chassis and body - I'll be able to velcro the sides of the body to these: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2741Small.jpg |
This is by far my favorite build. Keep up the good work!
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Thanks, I'm getting there.
Side guards are finished, holes drilled and tapped in the chassis to attach them. Here's how they look installed: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2749Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2751Small.jpg And you might be able to see how the body lines up with these here: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2756Small.jpg These guards should help protect the batteries - and maybe keep some debris out of the chassis. They will also protect the bottom of the chassis from getting scraped up - we'll see how long they last there. I need to make a skid plate for the front of the truck and then, I guess I'll need to do some painting. |
Very hard to see the side protectors in pics but what I can see looks great.
Can't wait to see the paint on for a more stand out effect. |
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That's because I made them out of special invisible material, so that if I don't paint the side guards or body, I can have the "Wonder-woman invisible jet" look: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ppP-3m8emk...er+Price+2.jpg |
So, the side guards are no longer invisible - they've been painted black:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2760Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2761Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2759Small.jpg |
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Looks really good!!!!!I can't wait to see video!!!!!
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Now those were the pics I was waiting for! Angle shows how everything fits and sits. Can't wait till I can start on my LST, at least I have your thread to get my fix! Great job, can't wait to see more!
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I'm sure you've checked, but was wondering if the tires rub against the body when the suspention is fully compressed. Hard to tell by the pics.
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Questions time. I was mocking up my LST with a RC-M Losi cd mount and I noticed that the 1717 would hit the diff output with 12/50 gearing unless I clearances the fins on the motor. You have the same issue with your custom mounts? Looking back at the 1st page of this thread I noticed you were going to go with 12/54 with an AE cd, you happen to know if the AE 54t fits the Losi cd?
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http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2769Small.jpg The AE 54t spur is not a direct fit on the Losi diff cup. But if you got the entire AE diff, I think it would fit in the Losi mount. Here is the length of the RC8T diff: http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2771Small.jpg |
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Thanks for the info! I didn't think about spacing the motor out until you pointed that out. Would save me from buying another cd or hunting some down Muggy diff gears.
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Body mask cut:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2774Small.jpg First color painted (Tamiya PS-9 green rattle can) : http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2785Small.jpg That's the best picture I got w/o a flash so you could see the color. I'll be painting the trim in black. |
Paint job is finished - here are some outdoor and indoor pics:
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2827Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2828Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2842Small.jpg http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._2843Small.jpg I'm happy with it. :smile: |
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