Awesome! I got my motor mount from Mike too!(as we discussed earlier in the thread) He does great work! Why did you put the motor over the diff? I put my motor in the left read of the truck... Looks very slick though!

I have some pics of mine if you want...

Bye :018:

Very nice! After seeing that, it makes me want to make an integrated diff holder/motor mount for my hyper 7. Egads! Redesign!

Sleebus

Pretty sweet, Brian. Is Mike keeping the design on file so he can make more?

Edit: Jeeze, I post a reply within like 5 minutes and get beat out twice already, lol

Looks good Brian, cem-would love to see yours too!!!!

Due to popular demand here they are... (sorry for the thread hi-jack, Brian)

I designed the mount in emachine shop and had mike machine of for me...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...otormount2.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...otormount1.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0920.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0919.jpg

Bye:018:

Thanks guys.

@cem: I put it over the diff because it gives me more options for batteries. Plus, I like symmetry and think it looks better that way. :)

@sleebus: I'm not sure, but the Hyper7 and Hyper8 are very close in design so I bet this will fit in the H7 as well. Besides, redesigns are fun!

@GD: Actually, Mike said the idea was already from a past design so I imainge it will be kept on file. I had him raise the diff a little so the motor clears the rear brace. He also re-centered the diff so it is now dead-center.

@cem (again): I like it! It's simple yet effective. At some point, I really have to sit down and figure that emachine program out. And don't worry about the hijack - it's not it's the first thread ever hijacked before! :)

...dood thats cool :D Super chunky...Blingy too :P

Emachine shop is easy! Also how thick is your mount, mine is 8mm...

bye:018:

That emachine is not hard. It takes a little practice.
Nice mount design.

Cool :). I've always thought the integrated mounts work best. Perhaps that's why I've been doing them for a year now :027:. However, Mike's work is a hell of a lot cleaner/neater than mine (due to tool availability).

I'm not sure how thick the mount is. Mike just sent pictures because I was impatient. :o I just told Mike what I was looking for and he just did what he felt was best. He's one of the few people that I'd trust to give carte blanche to...

MM, give yourself some credit where credit is due; your mount looks very nice. Unless of course you doctored the pic in Photoshop or something. ;)

I'm not so sure I deserve credit for it, just saying that it's an excellent setup, that I happen to have been running for a year :). Here's the first (year-old) design for my X-Terminator:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/IMG_0724.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/IMG_0726.jpg

That tool aviliblity is a good thing to have.
I sure wish I did.

Well, I did it; I ordered the rest of the parts. My poor credit card! :026: :027:

• Mike's motormount
• Neu 1512 2.5d
• Quark 125B (gonna have to mod this one too :))
• 2 x 2s 8000mAh Maxamps Lipos
• Misc odd and ends: 14T pinion, Neu end cover, 46T spur.

Now the hard parts; waiting for shipping and paying the credit card company! :)

Ah, no Mamba Max? You could have spent $140 less :mad:1. In any case, I can't wait to see it when it's running!

Sweet! I am thinking of running the same setup in my LSP. When you get the motor and batts, can you tell me how it runs?

Thanks in advance!

Bye:018:

Hmmm... I guess I won't sell you my new-in-package 125B!

Hee hee.... I've been trying to decide if I shoudl keep it and try it or sell it. Maybe I'll still have it here NIP when you get your buggy running... see how it runs.

:)

@MM: Glassdoctor's (and others) experience with the MM and a Neu motor makes me a little shy with that combo. I was going to get the MM and a 1940/8, but decided to go with a Neu instead. Yeah, it was more money, but cheaper than if I had gotten the MM, been dissatisfied, and then having to go get the 125B anyway.

@cemetary: But of course! :)

@Glassdoctor: Well! I wish I had known about that! Oh well. You've maybe seen the 125B in my Revo so you have an idea how it runs. I've had no problems with it so far, especially after I modded it for cooling.

Brian,

IMO You made a wise chioce in going with the Quark rather thatn the MM with your Neu motor.

I posted this in another thread somewhere around here, but here is a vid of my test of the MM with a Neu and the MM with a Lehner. The MM ran the 2 pole Lehner bo problem. It ran the Neu, but not well IMO. In the end I actually wound up frying the MM in testing wtih the Neu motor. In its current state the MM is much less than ideal for motors with more than 2 poles. Still waitjing for an update to the MM software to help with this. I wound up replaceing the MM in that buggy with a quark and it runs the Neu motor like a dream now.

The setup you just bought is the exact setup Im running in my revo right now. Love it:027:

Get some pictures posted when you get it together. Isnt it fun to get new toys.:D



http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...rs12-18-06.jpg

So maybe I shoudl open the 125B and install it.... than the next day Castle will release the new software update to make the MM work liek a dream with my Neu.

Kinda like buying a snowblower to make sure it won't snow again till next year.
:)

Yeah, i think they will get an update sooner or later.

Thanks for posting that vid, i am sure it will be handy to show to others..

Now i only need to remember where you put it..

Thanks Jhautz..

I was considering using a Neu with the MM controller, but now i know to get a plettenberg or use my 1950.

@jhautz: Yeah, your post (along with what I've heard/seen of GlassDoctor's setup) is one of the reasons why I didn't go with the MM/Neu combo. Even though the MM technically works with larger motors, I still feel it should be kept to lighter 1/10th scale vehicles. I was a little skeptical that the smaller 1512 series Neu would be up to the task of powering a buggy while remaining cool during the summer heat, but I think it should be fine from what I've seen here.

Yeah, buying new toys is fun; paying for them isn't. :)

@GD: lol, it's like buying computer parts too. The minute you get whatever part, the next generation offering higher performance is released for the same price. :mad:1 But, it's not like the Quark is not a good controller, just expensive comparatively, and needs (IMO) a mod or two to make it perfect.

The Plettys are 4 pole also aren't they? Rotaryrocket has a MM and Maxximum and he says it works great.

The first time I ran my buggy with the 1512 and MM I don't recall any cogging at all. It seems that the more runs I put on it the more it started cogging. When the weather turns I will try a new MM and see what happens.

Still, I can race my car and usually not have a problem... but I do wonder every time I go from a dead stop if it will cog this time...?

that looks awsome brian!

Well, got all my stuff in!

I wired up a Y balance connector and adding Deans to my 8Ah lipo packs. I then stuck them on my LBA10 so both 2s2p packs get balanced together as a 4s2p pack. Good thing too, one pack had a slightly higher voltage and required several hours on the balancer to equal out.

Then, I installed the 46T spur on the center diff. Thinking it would be a simple swap, I just slapped the plastic spur on there but the gears were binding badly. After reading a few posts here, some people remove all the shims. I really didn't want to do that as they are put there for a reason. So, I made a "gasket" out if some lexan I had laying around from the last body I cut out. It added just enough thickness for the gears not to bind, but still thin enough (at 0.85mm) to keep the sealing o-ring where it needs to be to prevent leaks. I haven't run it yet, so time will tell. Too bad there wasn't a rubber version...

Below are a couple pictures of the gasket:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/kyosho_spacer.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/kyosho_spur.jpg

I'll be doing some metal work this week to get the Quark, RX, and UBEC mounted. Maybe by next weekend, I'll have a functioning buggy!

Nice work on the spacer. How'd ya cut it out?

Sleebus

Your buggy is looking great and I can't wait to see it finished. Sorry if you have mentioned this, (I dont want to read through 10 pages), but is this going to be a racer or a basher?

Anyways, looks great so far.

Thanks guys!

@sleebus: With Lexan scissors, then using a dremel sanding wheel for the fine stuff. As you can imagine, it took a while. I'm sure if you look closely, you'll see a couple imperfections. Also, one of the holes is about 1/4mm off center, but since the 3mm holes were drilled with a 1/8" bit, there is enough play to make it work. If this doesn't leak when in use, maybe Mike can make up a rubbery-type batch for non-Kyosho diffs?

@***RC***: It's going to be primarily for racing. And it has to look pretty as well as perform. :)

Guys were removing the gaskets??? Wouldn't that make the gear mesh worse? Hmmm...

Seems that you should add a couple gaskets to get clearance for the gears if they are tight.

I think you might have to sandwich the lexan gasket with the paper gaskets to keep it sealed tight.

So how close is your buggy to being alive???

Show some pics of the whole thing! :)

@GD: I noticed that even stock with the steel spur, I could feel the teeth quite easily. When I added the plastic spur, it was really bad - almost to the point where I couldn't turn it! I all but had a spool in my hand! So, I did a search here (what a novel idea; searching for an answer! :)) and found others having the same issue when using the Ofna diffs. They removed most, if not all, the shims. That was not acceptable to me so I made the gasket/spacer. I really think it won't leak because the o-ring is still inside the spur lip so it's still sealed. Only time will tell I guess. I would've used paper/rubber/etc gasket but it would've been MUCH harder to make. I'm limited here! :)

It's still got a ways to go. I have all the parts, but I have to figure out where that gargantuan Quark is gonna go! I had everything planned for a MM, but decided on a true 1/8th scale ESC with the Neu.

It seems like I am running into all kinds of snafus too:

1) First the diff thing. But now that's solved (I hope).

2) Then, the motor mount mesh adjust holes are not quite wide enough to get the Neu motor screws in right, so I have to have the motor cock-eyed a little. No big deal, but now I can't get the motor down low enough to fit my 14T pinion! 15T is the absolute minimum tooth count I can use. I just hope it's not overgeared now. So, this is solved too (maybe).

3) Now, the mounting of the Quark. The ESC by itself is easy enough to mount, but I want to install some heatsinks on it and the resulting increase in footprint is giving me problems. Just a few minutes ago, I made a couple mods to the body mounting posts so it sits about 5mm higher for more internal clearance. So, I'm trying all kinds of layouts using Legos for mock mounting. Once I get the mounting idea down (and I'm really close now), I then have to fab the mounts and paint them to match the scheme.

So, it'll be until at least next weekend before it's done.

@Sylvester: Oh, you can be sure I'll get a bunch of nice pics when I'm done and you guys will be the first to see it.

Can you shave a little on the screw slots so the fit is right? I know you probably hate to do that but if it's pretty close I would do it. I've had to do that on my homemade ones more than once. ;)

Diff: what some have done is use some extra stock gaskets to shim the gear.... same thing you did with the lexan, but just using several gaskets. I'm not sure the lexan will seal well enough by itself, but if not it's no biggie to add a gasket.

Definitely get some pics, even if it's only ALMOST done, lol.

When I first found out the slots weren't quite right, I was ready to do something like you suggested before I decided not to. I even had the dremel in my hand, but I got scared. :002: I'll see how the temps are with the 15T before I go ruin, I mean modify, Mike's motor mount. :) If I find I need to go to a 14T, I'll have to do the modification you suggested and hope for the best.

Where would I find these gaskets? Before I made the lexan one, I looked at Tower and saw these, but the screw holes on the one I made are VERY close to the edge of the diff compared to the pictures at Tower, so I didn't think they'd work. At any rate, I'll see if this works and go from there. Mike ought to carry some of those in the RCM store (hint hint ;)).

Right now, it doesn't look much different from pictures posted a month or so ago except for Mike's mount and the Neu mounted to it. By the time I do anything different, it'll be done anyway! So, you'll just have to wait. :) Besides, it's not like this is the first (nor the best) conversion on here...

Thanks for the suggestions!

Those gaskets should work fine... they are soft adn flexible enough that the holes don't have to be perfect.

As for the gearing, 15/46 will be ok... very fast for the track. :) I'm figuring it will run about 36-38mph based on what I clocked mine at. And I suggest you get an 18T gear for some +45mph fun in the street. :027: I made mine from an emaxx lightweight top shaft.

13 or 14 pinion would be a nice option for the small track so keep the dremel handy, lol.

I did have mine geared 14/46 with the 1512 1.5Y motor at hobby haven (about 10% lower gearing than your 15/46 factoring in kv) but I went up to 16/46 when I raced at a bigger track in Waterloo so it could stretch it's legs a bit more.

OK, thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Looks like I might as well do the dremel mod. I don't think I'll be traveling too far outside DSM unless I really get into racing, so HH is about it.

And you're right, I figure around 36mph with my setup. Really, that's fine as I plan on keeping this strictly for track use. But you never know. :)

brian g, k first is first lol

I LOVE UR BUGGY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now second u got pm!!

PM answered and thanks. :)

Well, I dremeled out the mount slightly to get the motor to fit right. It's amazing what less than 0.5mm will do! Now I can use my 14T pinion. Yay!

I ended up ordering those Ofna gaskets at Tower. The diff still isn't leaking, but I might as well do it right, especially now when everything is apart.

I'm still having a heck of a time trying to fit the Quark on there! What's tough is trying to find a position that will make wiring neater while keeping it away from the body enough so it won't get abused if the buggy lands on its lid. But, I think I have a plan. :) So I also ordered some 1/16" thick 6061 aluminum sheet (pretty good price at Tower too). If it turns out like I think it will, it should be pretty.

keep us updated lol i will need all i can get! lol

and thanks for insipreing me to convert a buggy!! and spend 2k on a rc car lol its worth it tho, especially when u can make a few parts for it that u cant buy off the shelf

This is only one of many buggies I've seen here. Do a little searching and you'll find a LOT of very nice setups.

The only trouble with fabbing your own parts is that if one breaks, you can't simply run into your LHS and get a replacement; you have to build it over again. This of course effectively kills a race day!

Do you have a part number handy? I was unable to find 'em, and my diff is bleeding silicone oil all over my chassis. That plastic ring is exactly what the diff needs. How did you go about making it?

I'm seriously considering a 777 diff, just for ease of maintenance.

Sleeb