Yes, I agree that copper is a better conductor than alum., but are you going to mount that Quark to a heatsink? Even then, the heat has to pass through two thermal interfaces, not just one (when in a Quark case), that will be limiting it. If I made my clamp from copper, I would maybe lower the temps by a few degrees. I just wished that I had found a smaller/ligher heatsink for my Quark, as mine is too tall for mounting if lot's of places.

This makes me want to get Mike to make my 'custom quark case' that I designed 6 months ago. :smile:

Yeah, nothing is that simple saddly. Although..... **ding, idea**

Wouldnt it be cool if a manufacturer could release a brain board or unit, that could be plugged into different size/rated power boards, so you could easily upgrade your esc to a more powerful unit for less $$$. I like that idea alot....

Yeah, that would be very nice for all of us! :yes:

Modular design approach makes a lot of sense in a lot of electronic designs these days, but sadly, very few manufacturers do it.

Actually, I had sorta expressed that desire a while back; a modular type of ESC with a universal brains board, and then the user can pick the power board to match their needs and just plug them together. And while we're at it, might as well also make the power boards stackable.

Stackable for sure! :party:

Wow, back to sensored systems, ... long time no interest and finally.
I'm slowly (for one of my projects) making a power board for HV-Maxx, but was not expecting any interest in that combo here. Feigao has full line of sensored motors and Aveox as well. Well, I had a thread here on HV-Maxx and Feigao combo...

Mamba first, Quark second which brains we want to add?

To zeropointbug:
How much power you think you dumping on ESC?
What kind of Amp ratings you would like to have from ESC and why?

Is this a question about an esc Artur?

Can you elaborate on what you want to know? I just don't know exactly what you are asking. :oops:

Ok, step by step:

Related to your ESC-
a. Why you need heatsink at all?
b. How much power you need to dissipate?
c. What temperature range of the ESC and FET's you would like to have?
"How much power you think you dumping on ESC?"

Related to future ESC-
a. What temperature range of the ESC and FET's you would like to have? (copy of "c")
b. How long you would like your ESC to work continuous at 25%/50%/75%/100% load?
"What kind of Amp ratings you would like to have from ESC and why?"

Heatsinks could be a mute point if the capacity of the board/fets are sufficient right? but by weight what weighs less to do the same work, a small board that performs well with a sink and fan- or a large board that does the same work with minimal heat?

Speaking of stackable, is it possible to get a MM powerboard without buying a new ESC, and how many power boards will the brain control befor it's overloaded?

Welcome to RC-Monster!

Castle Creations didn't replay on any of my e-mails, so do not know.

As far how many boards you can stack, 2 boards would be the sweet spot. Then you will create layout troubles and total gate charge of more then 24 FETs will exceed 1.25A driver ratings at 10kHz.

Hmm, talking about MM powerboards made me wonder: What happens to all the 'broken' escs which have just blown a fet or some other minor component? I know alot of people seem to just throw their dead esc in bin since its out of warrenty, but perhaps we should have a recycling program (read that as watch the forums for people who have just killed their esc, and offer to buy it from them for next to nothing- then turn it into a brand new esc even better than it was before)....

I thought that they can be fixed for $50 by Castle...

Yeah, thats exactly right. But when I read around sometimes it seems that a few people just toss them in the bin because they think the damage is to bad. I dunno, I could be imagining things again though....

As for sensored motors, looking at the prices of the Aveox motors, they are rather expensive when compared to similar spec Neus, so I may be barking up the wrong tree with my idea there. Still, it would be good to have an esc that doesnt conk out when running the Hv4.5, seeing as its a bit too much for the HvMaxx esc sometimes.

Mabey a sticky for people to donate their dead MM's to science (all be it mad science)?

Tee-hee, mad science is the best kind.

Related to your ESC-
a. Why you need heatsink at all? - So I can use it for almost any application, and stress it all I want, without it complaining.
b. How much power you need to dissipate? -Easily 2000watts peak handling
c. What temperature range of the ESC and FET's you would like to have?- Does this mean ambient temp? Or the operating temp? I would like to keep the FET's under 30F above ambient.
"How much power you think you dumping on ESC?"-Is this power output? Or heat output?

Related to future ESC-
a. What temperature range of the ESC and FET's you would like to have? (copy of "c")-Again, less than 30F above ambient
b. How long you would like your ESC to work continuous at 25%/50%/75%/100% load?- 25% Continuous, 50% Continuous, 75% 5 mins, 100% 1 min
"What kind of Amp ratings you would like to have from ESC and why?"- Psshh, 200 amps? I don't really want to draw any more than 100 amps, but the FET's will not be stressed, thus no need for heavy cooling.

You must mean power output? If an approx 90% efficient ESC needed to dissipate 2,000w, the output to the motor would be 20,000w! :wink: :whistle:

HEHE, what can I say, the questions aren't that understandable! :whistle:

MambaMax FET's driver has troubles driving my new FET board, so I will make new board with built-in drivers...
I will check my math again as well.

Brains side and FET's side

Wow, that looks better than some 'proper' escs do. Do my eyes deceive me, or are there only 6 giant fets on that?...

It looks very nice. Those FETs are really tough. I hope it works out. What are the specs on the FETs? What will the specs be after you are done?

I will try to answer in this thread (I missed that tread completely, will try to catch-up)

Nice work, you can tell its designed for high currents- the copper traces are massive compared to the gaps between them; its usally the other way around whenever I get bored and di-sect some broken electronic device before I throw it in the bin.... Here's hoping this one works better than the last one, Im sure it will though.

While waiting on parts from Digikey, decided to play with Schulze.
Prototype works alright, no problems so far.
I'll try to dress it up and check on the truck.

Cool work Artur!

why not use a mamba 25 as a controller-board?

Thank You, Rene!

$80.00 for 25A looks expensive for me when you can get 100A for $135.00 and I can re-use parts from MambaMax, not sure about mamba 25.

But I don't see any problems with using Mamba 25 brains with my power boards. Once I make it to work with MambaMax it would work with all Castle family, I hope :)

great!, good to hear.

What's the current limit on these proto-types?

Artur,

On the Schulze controller, I see the small SMT resistors next to were the MOSFET goes. If I wanted to make extra powerboars, would thee work with the same resistance or would I have to use different resistance for everything to work ok? The reason I'm asking is because I see a few controllers that stack powerboards to up the AMP rating.

GriffinRU, just want to let you know that this double-stacked MM still holds up great!

If you noticed, I'm not using them because I have them on my power board. If you stack power boards (identical) there is no need to change resistors (but they need to be tuned if you happen to replace stock fets with newer/better ones).

So if you have two schulze controllers then you can make a double decker, like mambamax with minimum effort. But do not exceed the current ratings of the fet drivers, do the math with# of Fets, # of resistors in parallel, Rg and switching frequency. But with 2 boards you should be Ok, otherwise start sharing resistors and fight with ringing.

Probably PCB limited to 75A, Fets are 330W rated up to 160A at 100C

Hi Dafni,
Great, did you build one?

I think Dafni is using the one you sent to Mike for testing.

Yes, must have been one of the first you did. Mike got it back in september. We put it on my XT8

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../041007009.jpg

MambaMax mod2 Step by Step
 

New boards are very well done, hard to take them apart. But heatsink attachment was very poor on 2 units out of 3 :( This one fall off by itself...

So first step is take 2 ESC's apart and prepare them for future assembly.

Remove:
- wires
- capacitors
- separate boards
- remove header from FET's boards
- clean holes from solder

At the end you should have this.

Further steps will follow...

At least if the heatsinks fall off by themselves, there's no risk of damaging the fets by prising them off.... :/

Anyway, I had another crazy thought the other night: since it is simple enough to synchronise two motors of the same type & connect them to on esc, do you think it could be done with two HvMaxx motors and the HvMaxx esc? Im thinking if you just wire up one motor to the esc with the 3 main power wires & sensor wires, then wire the 2nd motor to the 1st (in sync), could the esc handle it with a few simple mods? I've seen how you (GriffinRU) beefed up the pcb traces with copper wire & extra solder to increase amp handling, so do you think it the could handle the amp draw of two 6.5 motors (since they are less demanding of the esc than the 4.5s), or would better fets be required than those fitted as standard?.... just another crazy idea, since twin HvMaxxes would be as good as the Twin VXL setup almost, but having to use two escs, two motors and 28 sub-c cells sounds a bit mad, and 2x 4s is abit expensive for my pocket....

For what it's worth, I had an e-maxx with 2 hv-maxx 4400's (2 esc's). I ran 24 and 28 cells. It was pretty fun, my Neu 1515 1y on 4s is better though:mdr:
Pic:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0092.jpg

Bye:mdr:

Thats the good stuff right there. It does seem much more viable with smaller/lighter Lipo batteries, but then again a good motor like a Neu or Lehner etc will still beat it. Oh, apparently the techs at Novak said the new HV system they are working on wont be ready until the later half of next year, which sucks a bit, but I can wait & experiment in the mean time...

MambaMax Mod 2
 

• Sanding FET's for better adhesion and flatness
• Silver epoxy Top side of middle Fet's board
• Silver epoxy Bottom side of middle Fet's board
• Attach brass heatsink to top and bottom (Remove LED's)
• Solder Header to Top Fet's Board
• Solder new Caps to Top Fet's Board
• Check alignment of top and middle boards
• Apply heatsink grease to bottom Fet's of Top Fet's board
• Solder headers and caps, trim caps leads
• Attach brains pcb, trim header
• Prefinal view

Further steps will follow...


To suicideneil:
Why using bad motor when you can utilize better one, have you checked my thread about 7XL running on sensored mode, borrowing sensors from HV-Maxx motor?