well im not really sure how races work... but if im not racing i will be jsut driving around the track trying to get a feel for it and all that...
would you think that the components will ever get too hott to run?

like after a full 30 min runtime or anything?

46/13 should give you pretty decent track speed, unless it's a really big open style track. I don't think you'd want it much faster while your just getting used to racing.
46/14 should be as fast as you need it to go on the track, even once you get used to it, but if you do need to show off at racing, a 15t pinion would do that.
Geared 46/13 I don't think you should have any problems with temps, unless it's really hot weather or you drive really hard.
30 minutes racing will be close to the batteries runtime I think. You might get a few mins more or maybe few mins less, just depends on all the normal amp draw stuff. Plus if you spend a lot of time on your lid, that's time that your not drawing much power :oops:

well the track is only open at night so temps arent a big deal...
and at first i will definetly not drive it hard lol... i wont be able to.

its amazing at what 1-2 teeth on a pinion can do for you...

on brians calc can you check speeds?

and im guessing 46 is the stock spur?

what is the diff ratio? 4.3?

i put 4.3 and got a speed of 36 with 46/13 gearing and 5s.

Yeah, the diff ratio in truggy's is usually 4.3:1.
I couldn't say for sure what the stock XT8 spur is. I think tallyram had a steel 48t spur on his, so maybe 48t is stock? I guess you'll find out once you get it, but 2t on the spur gear won't make that much difference, maybe 1.5mph.

I think that gearing is a good place to start.

got it in today!!! YESSSS!!!!! stupd mailman came at 9 in the morning instead of the regular time so i didnt even know the package came till my mom checked the mail at 430....
turns on i needed to sign for it so they left me that horrid note saying that they will deliver it tomorow... o but hey... tomorow is thanks giving! so they werent going to deliver it till friday! i didnt feel like waiting so i jumped into my truck and got to the post office a couple minutes before it closed (5PM)

anyways!!! truck is here!!!YESSSSSS!!!!! its not like i can do anything with it lol... but still!! ITS HERE!!!!

good news is that i have more money than i thought. so the project will be completed by january.

here are some pics!

awsome packaging.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301146.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301147.jpg

before
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301150.jpg
after
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301152.jpg
ill definetly be getting another body but for now this is all i have!

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301160.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301159.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301158.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301157.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301154.jpg
as you can see i still have the other half of the motor mount connected... the screw is stripped... its a hex head so what do i do? drill it out?
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/S6301162.jpg
and theres the 16018!

was looking at this battery tray maybe to buy for it...
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...MFPbatterytray

how would i mount it on there? or keep it from coming out?

do i just drill it onto the chassis or what?

also do you think it would fit the true-rc 8ahs?

I don't think it would fit the TrueRC packs. That Xray looks NICE!.

You could count the number of teeth on the spur while you don't have much to do on it :smile: You might be able to find out more about all the tuning adjustments at somewhere like http://www.truggyracers.com/
Sometimes you can get screws out by using a cutting wheel on a dremel and putting a slot for a blade screw driver in the head of the screw. Could be hard if it's a counter sunk screw and you don't want slices in the bottom of your chassis. If not you may need to drill. Do you care if the motor mount get damaged? If you don't drill perfectly straight it will be easy to damage the internal threads in the mount.

It says it fits the flightpower 5000's, which are 166mm x 44 or 45mm.
The older 10C true rc packs will fit length ways, but they're 50mm wide, so they probably won't fit.
The new 15C versions will fit length ways and they're only 45mm wide, so they should fit in the tray. The new 15C packs are a bit taller and heavier than the 10C ones, so keep in mind that it's going to be a big chunk of battery to have on one side of the car. Their also more expensive than the 10C ones, and won't be that much cheaper than the Flightpower 5s 25C 5000mah packs.
Are you buying new batteries or do you still have some from before?

i have a true rc 2s pack. so all i would need is a 3s pack and i got my batteries.

so it will be 150 for the batteries and im done. instead of 300... but im not sure what im going to do yet.

also i dont care about the mount at all so i will just drill right through it tomorow.

im going to end up buying the evo 30s so i wil prolly just buy the tray and if it fits the truerc packs then awsome! but if not then ill find another way to mount them.

idk. i will see what ima do later in the build when i have the moneys.

ill go to truggyracers tomorow and see what i can learn!

thanks!

so im probably going to end up with the 1515 1.5d i think it will save me a TON of money in batteries and save me weight.

if i gear it at 46/15 with only 3s a123 it will hit around 34 mph!! or 4s lipo with 46/13 it will hit around 45.

only thing about that motor is im worried about it overheating. since its a high kv motor i feel like it cant take a beating. idk why but i am going to keep the truggy as light as possible to help it out.

3S A123 is nowhere near enough juice...4S minimum.

dude, that thing is SWEEEET! i'm excited for ya, ryan. heck, i'm excited for me too - although i'm going to have to put mine together after it comes in next week... which is fun too i guess.

edit: i agree with squee - i'm planning to run 5s a123's in mine.

i didnt think it sounded right either but on the speed thing it sais i will hit 34 with the 3s123... will it be really sluggish? or no torque?

tell me right now if it is a bad idea to go with the 1.5 cause i dont want to spend the money then realize i need more.

well if i ran 5sa123 with the 1.5d motor then according to the calculations it would be 50mph... which i DONT need nor do i want. 4s does sound a little more like it though.

plus if i bought 2 dewalt packs i would make 5 4s packs... which is not bad to me at all.

is the 1.5 not going to be enough? or with 4s will it be fine?

why not volt up and gear down? to me that would be easier on the system than low volts and higher gearing. i'm also using a LMT 1940/7, which is ideal on 5s a123's.

First of all, don't buy a motor yet...You can't even make up your mind on what batteries you want or can get. Simply think about things a little longer. Personally, I would go with a 4S setup in it. You can get a 4S2P pack from TrueRC for only $140. That would be my choice. And is. I'm gonna get one for my Revo. I would NOT go with A123. There just plain to heavy and not much cheaper than buying TrueRC LiPos. Besides, there heavier, bulkier, harder to mount, and there just plain ugly.

your right about the a123s... they are a big PITA when it comes to mounting and it is hard for them to look nice.

i will buy another 2s true-rc pack and call it good from there. if i feel the need to get a123s or the evo 30s then i will. but i will save that for later.

what motor would you recomed for 4s? the 1.5d?


also clod... the reason that i dont want to go with a HV setup is mainly the price.

maybe later when i make more money i would love to go with a 6s setup, but for now im going to go with a 4s like squee said.

I would probably go for the 1y/F. If you go with that, it will leave room for 5S in the future. The 1.5d would be good if your not completely concerned with runtime. Ones spinning about 32,000 RPM, while the other is around 39,000. Something in between would be best. Its your call.

so the 1.5d would kill runtime?

Not necessarily kill runtime. It depends on your driving style for one. Personally, I would go with the 1y/F. That would leave room for 5S, and would give good runtime, which you'll need if you race since your gonna be racing nitros.

that is true.

thanks alot squee.

im hoping to be ordering the batteries soon then the motor.

Wow, you change your mind a lot.:whistle:
Personally I wouldn't get the A123's for a race car. Big, bulky, ugly, and not as powerful. They drop their voltage a lot under load, so it sounds like you need 2p to get decent performance and runtime, unless you go really high voltage. I guess they're cheaper and safer, so they'd be good for a basher, but I'd prefer lipo for racing. If you only went with 3s A123 you'd need a lot of amps to get decent power and hit 34mph, which would mean poor runtime, more heat and poor performance, because the A123's wouldn't be able to hold their voltage under so much load. I wouldn't use less than 5s with A123, and I think you'd still need 2p too get decent runtime and performance.

I still like the 1515 2.5d on 5s lipo (it's good on 6s as well), but the 1515 1y on 4s should be ok as well I guess. I think the 1.5d's kv is a bit too high for such a big motor.
I went with 5s instead of 4s, so I could keep the amp draw and temps a bit lower when geared for a certain speed. I wasn't sure if using the 10C true rc packs on only 4s would be pushing them a bit, but they hardly get warm on 5s, so I guess they'd still be ok on 4s geared for the same speed. The 3s2p true rc packs are only $25 more than the 2s2p packs, so going 5s wouldn't be that much more, since you already have the controller and the motor will still be the same price.

yes i do change my mind alot. i do not know why.

once i actually have the money in hand it is a different story.

i like to brainstorm all the options i can do i guess.... which isnt bad... just very annoying for you guys im sure.

as of right now i have 2 options...

buying sowers crt RTR (neu 1.5d 2 4s lipo packs and a mgm 16018) for 850. that would save me the trouble of buying a motor and batteries. i could sell the mgm and the roller for around 4-500 then spend only around 400 on the motor and batteries.

or if i dont do that i am just going to go ahead and get the 2.5D and get another 3s truerc 8ah lipo. that way i spend around 450.

i might change my mind again soon but you never know with me.....

and patrick you are right about a123s. they would be nice for a big beastly savage, e-maxx or lst. but for a pure racer it is not what i need.

i am going with lipos.

now to figure out what to do for my motor.....

i should have the money in a week or 2....

maybe by then i will make up my mind for sure lol...

it's good to have options..

yes it is.

sometimes.

it can get difficult and annoying though.

For what it's worth, the 1.5d (2700kv) motor on 4s doesn't get over 110 degrees under hard race conditions. The MGM never over 120. Granted I have a fan on my motor, but nothing on the ESC. Gearing is the key on that in my opinion. I run a 10t pinion and a 51t spur. Just FYI.

well i will have your truck in the next week or so so i will be able to test it all on my own!!

what my plan on your truck is to...

-first try it out. see how it drives and see how it performs.
-then put everything on the xt8. see which truck i like better. -from there i will decide which truck to keep and which roller to sell.
then i will decide whether to sell the batteries or not.
if i keep them then awsome.
if i sell them then i am going for the 4s or 5s evo 30s.
once that happens i will be done =)

That's true :mdr:

Well, sounds like a good plan to me. What other brushless vehicles have you or do you currently have to compare it to?

i have a nice MDT =D (micro desert truck)

and what i meant was i will compare the xt8 to the crt. i will just swap their stuff and see which one i like better.

but i cannn compare it to my old bl trucks (bl supermaxx and 2 diff bl revos)

all 3 of those were trash. i never had anything good on them. always 8xl, mm combo or novak hv-maxx. i am not saying that the electronics are complete crap but compared to neu and mgm they arent the best.

i had good speed but lots and lots of overheating issues.

I see . . . well that's what I was wondering. If that's what you've dealt with before - this will be a nice surprise :whistle:

lol i cant even wait. you have no idea.

before i was using 16 cells 3500 mah on a mm with no BEC so id get about a 5 min run MAX. and that was with good weather conditions so my motor wouldnt burn up before it.

i had a crappy setup. im sure my gearing sucked but who knows.

i am so tempted to just go into my dads bank account and pull out the money and pay you now then just pay him back when i can! but i need to learn how to wait.........:whistle::whip:

That's hillarious :lol: Well, I think that's a good thing - besides I have it packaged nicely in a box in my trunk. Ready to go.

No doubt you will be happy with this setup. :wink:

lol i bet i will!

im a kid so im destined to make mistakes... maybe my next mistake will be taking some money out of my dads bank account...... (i will pay him back in about a week)

Sweet. That's pretty funny.

Evo 30 all the way

and that is what im going for =)

You'll be limited to 4500 mahs with the evo 30's, unless you get the 6400 2p packs, but the 5s version is 90mm tall :surprised: