i had a question about the kersaw e-revo chassis i found a company that will make the top plate out of CF do you think that will help with the ALU bending or will it just break and not be worth it

Also is there any other mods you can think of that will help out. I am trying to make a basher 'cause there are no tracks here.

3mm or 1/8" (3.2mm) top-plates will work great, but you are just putting a Band-Aid on that chassis (sorry Dan)...you really should use either the stock E-Revo chassis or a converted nitro chassis (preferably the Vantage CF chassis).

Not to mention the problem with adding the front kickup and rear kickdown to the upper plate if made out of carbon fiber...

Yep, didn't think about that...you would have to get carbon-weave fabric and resin and mold your own pieces with the correct bends in them.

Which would probably have to be vacuum formed, and alot of $$$$.

Yep! I, personally, think the Vantage Carbon-Fiber chassis is the best way to go...and you can use whatever transmission you want; E-Revo, E-Maxx 3905, E-Maxx 3906, or Nitro Revo with an RCM Motor-Mount!

Indeed...I have the Vantage chassis as well (with the V-Armor) and it is GORGEOUS, but unfortunately before I even finished the makeover so to speak of the Nitro Revo to BL conversion (Tekno tray, RCM motor mount, two speed Revo tranny with center diff and mechanical brakes, etc.), I decided to go with the E-Revo chassis. Much more convenient really since that would be the only truck I have that would need a single pack and I didn't wanna deal with that, as well as the complicity of it.

I run the Vantage Extended 3.3 carbon-fiber chassis, a Hardcore Racing full-length one-piece front-to-rear titanium skidplate, Mike's RCM motor-mount, nitro Revo transmission with FOC & locked in 2nd gear, two 30C 4S 2650mAh LiPos in parallel (14.8v @ 5300mAh & 159A) and I made my own 2mm carbon-fiber trays for the LiPos, ESC, Rx, Motor-Mount Brace, 2nd Servo Hole Cover, and an empty tray/spot between the front of the motor and the steering servo.

i found a company that will did the chassis for free (I uesd to work for them) so the price isn't the main problem i was just woundering if it would hold up to bashing

gonna go out and test the smart diff again tomorrow.
but current oppinion...smart diff is a waste of $$ in a revo IMO.
but we'll see :lol:

I like the solid output shaft in the transmission instead of a center-diff and either the stock E-Revo diffs or Mike's RC-Monster Hybrid Diffs.

This is where I'm at with the battery compartment project. I ordered the wrong PVC angle. It's too small. So I improvised by making extensions. Everything is put together with double side tape just to see if it works. I made a mistake in cutting one of the doors so I had to make another one out of different material so that's why they are different. Both doors will be like the black one.
I have a couple sheets of PVC coming in and I'm going to redo evrything the proper way, without extensions.
This PVC is easy to work with, cutting, drilling is no problem and using a heat gun to make bends works very well.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp4.jpg

Wow, I like it!

That is dudey, low CoG ftw!

Not gonna move forward with the battery compartment thing. The club I used to race at is going 1/8 Truggy and Buggy exclusively. So it's just bashing for me and my son this year. The stock chassis will do fine with the stock battery openings.

I'm thinking, there might be some reasons why Traxxas made those battery compartments the size they are. If the size of the batteries is limited then the weight added to the truck is limited resulting in less broken parts.