If you starting putting higher than 50K in the front diff steering will start to suffer.
I do a lot of climbing and hard bashing and have found that 30-50K Front and 50K rear works very well.

Thanks I will keep that in mind when I try 100k in the front anyway :na: :lol:

It was a nice sunny and warm 34 degrees F winter day today and we played with our trucks a lot. A lot of people were taking walks in the neighborhood with their dogs and children so my son took care of terrorizing the small dogs and I went darting for toddlers. Just joking :whistle: When I changed the rear bulkheads, I forgot to tighten down the nuts for the rockers so they were sliding up and down the shafts and eventually, one broke at the beginning of the third set of lipos. Sadly, I don't have a spare so I just watched my son play until he decided he had enough. No broken bulkheads though http://www.revo-world.com/forums/ima...ilies/yay2.gif

My switch was not holding well anymore because the screw holes were stripped so I decided to finally get rid of it. After almost a year of running it in a balloon, it still looks pristine with no trace of dust or moisture or corrosion.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch7.jpg

I took out the old bag of multi colored marshmallows and went clown hunting. I talked about this trick before on how I leave a trail of multi colored marshmallows leading to the end of a dark alley. When a clown takes the bait, I jump out and grab his bag of clown balloons, the ones he makes balloon puppets with. My Jato shock boots were torn so I went back to clown balloons, they are tougher then Jato shock boots. I also went with blue front springs and silver rear springs. here's a pic of the truck with missing rocker and no place for a switch anymore.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/th_erbe4.jpg

I run 50k oil in my front diff and 10k oil in my rear diff with no center diff and it is perfect (after trying many different combos)! I also still run Nitro-Revo diffs instead of E-Revo diffs & they are holding up just fine, and I beat the living crap out of my truck! Plus, I hate to beat up on the already beaten up horse, but a properly set slipper will protect the rest of your driveline, diffs included.

For anyone that doesn't already know...you are supposed/need to run thicker oil in the front diff and thinner oil in the rear diff, to help with steering. The thicker the oil is in the rear diff, the more your truck will push (understeer) in the turns and not steer very well at all, which is why you run thinner oil in the rear diff and thicker oil in the front diff. You can even run a spool in the front if you want, but you will get very over-aggressive steering (oversteer) and it will be hard to control...oil in the front diff that is too thick does the same thing.

Crash, what rocker posts are you using?

I use the stock Traxxas posts, I put a M4X12 mm set screw in them with red Locktite then use a lock nut to secure the rocker. I was tired of trying to unscrew that M4 button head screw and the post would come with it. I got the idea from Lunsdford titanium posts. They are machine with a threaded post on top for a nut instead of a threaded hole for a screw.

So you break your last set of rear P2 rockers and you are still waiting for the new sets to come in. What do you do? Leave the truck on the table and wait? I say no way! Take your unused Long Travel rockers, make P2 rockers out of them and keep on bashing or racing.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...2_rockers1.jpg

Putting the broken P2 rocker on top, it might not be absolutely perfect but I would say it's pretty darn close. All the holes line up very nicely.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...2_rockers2.jpg

I just tried the truck on 6S. I was surprised at how well it worked.

Interesting idea on the stock rocker posts. I have been considering the Lunsford ones, mainly because I already have a bent one and if I'm going to spend the money... My only gripe with the lunsfords is that the nuts are annodized... lock nuts don't work right annodized. I like the idea though.

Lock-nuts working has nothing to do with being anodized or not...the "locking" part of the nut is the hard rubber insert in the last few threads of the nut. Anodizing has no affect on lock-nuts.

MC, I think you need a set of NIP Hardcore Racing Titanium Rockers, and I just happen to have a full front & rear set! ;)

Remember the Kershaw chassis experiment? Remember how it failed? Remember I had to pay $40 to get a new top plate? I got it today. It's the 2.2 version with 20 degrees kick up in the front and 3 degrees kick down in the rear :whistle:
yeah those angles are all wrong, they don't match the bulkheads at all. But not to worry as the aluminum is so soft, I can bend the plate to the correct angles with two fingers. What a piece of junk! I'm done with this guy. The plate is not even flat.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...plate_2_2a.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...plate_2_2b.jpg

Chad, if crash doesn't want em, PM me and I might take em off your hands. :mdr:

Thanks Chad but I don't want the rockers, I do fine with the stock ones.