Well, I am sure everyone can say at least you an honest man... thanks for the info I am going to get on ordering up some parts now.

couple questions....I am installing lst diffs in my revo....I know the lst diffs have a different gear ratio than the traxxas diffs but are there different gear ratio sets that can go in the lst diffs or are they all the same regardless of what the diff came out of? I ask because the diffs I bought are in a silver case while most I've seen are in a blue case and I remember reading a comment from someone that implied there are different ring/pinion gear sets for the lst diffs.

Also, I have been running a 54/20 gear ratio on my revo with the stock diffs.....will going to a 24 tooth pinion be slower or faster than what I'm used too on it with the lst diffs?

There's a difference in ratio from the LST diffs and the Losi muggy diffs. Make sure you have the LST diffs which use a 13 tooth pinion and a 43 tooth ring gear. The Losi muggy has a different tooth count.

With the correct LST diffs and a pinion/spur of 24/54, BrianG's speed calculator evaluates the top speed of your E-Revo at around 45 mph which would be about 1 mph faster then what you are used too.

cool deal, I have the right diffs then:mdr:

I got the bulks and lst diffs fitted together today and tested the fit of the xxl cvd's and discovered that with my rdracing carriers I will be able to use the stock cups the diffs come with, they fit pretty much perfect with the pivot balls screwed in just past the threads, so it's all coming together with surprisingly few problems.

I ordered the kershaw center dogbones and will have to do what you did to make them fit with the rcmonster cups on the diffs I guess.

So a regular drill bit will put a hole through the revo tranny output shaft? Did you have to do that for both sides?

I'm going to use one of the kershaw cups clamped in my drill press as a guide for the bit so hopefully that will keep it centered on the shaft and help with starting the hole.


thanks for the help!

Reguardless of the color (blue,silver,black plastic)of the LST based diffs case the ratio is the same, only the Muggy ratio is different.

The lst diffs are a little different I know that the carrier is a little different the older ones are not as heavy duty as the new ones there are less plastic in them, but I am sure they are still miles better than the stock revo junk. I think the silver cases came from the aftershocks and the blues didnt start showing up till the lst's came out but color doesn't really matter at all. I wouldnt use the cup as jig for drilling unless you dont want to use it again, but that just me.

I didnt drill any holes in my shaft`s to fit the kershaw`s.. I just moved the tranny 1-2mm backwards.. 3 minutes with the dremel fixed that :)
The rear center axle actually was a bit short, not too short, but short enough to move the tranny 1-2mm.. Now both sits perfect, deep into the cups.

Well, I got the kershaw axles today and got those installed so at this point I basicly just have to put the truck back together and I should be good to go:yipi:

The longer rear dogbone fit fine but I did have to drill a new pin hole on the front tranny output and cut off about a 1/4 inch of it but thats all it took...I now have about 1/4 inch of play on front and rear dogbones which I think is enough to prevent any binding when the chassis flex's...besides most of the flexing it does actually opens up the gap rather than closing it so it should be fine.

I put a few o rings under the ends of the dogbones on each side to keep them centered and prevent them from sliding back and forth all the time....Any reason that may not be a good idea? They can still move back and forth, just not without a little pressure.

Is it normal for these lst diffs to be a little notchy when new? (I mean the ring and pinion, not the diff itself) One is fairly smooth but the other is pretty notchy, I assume they will wear in and I don't see any way to adjust the mesh aside from the one shim on each one and thats already on the side that opens up the mesh slightly.


heres a pic of where I'm at

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...sinstalled.jpg

Thats odd, Mine was too tight in front for that to work and the rear one would have been to tight if I moved the tranny rearward any. I did notice that the front dogbone ball had been ground down flat after the black finish was applied so I guess kershaw thought they are just a little too long too.

Yeah, mine front axle was also grinded down some.. Strange my rear fit so good then, but anyway you seem to be all good now!

My diffs where also _very_ tight.. I removed a shim from the ingoing "pinion" drive, and the mesh felt perfect after that.. They where so tight, that i belive it would be a problem.. I had problems tuning them with my fingers in the pinion drive, without cups on.. And they where noisy when turning them fast.

The first time I took out my LST-equipped E-Revo there was a lot of binding going on in the diffs, particularly the front. It made a grinding noise, but eventually it went away. I took it apart to replace the grease with true diff fluid and the gears didn't look worn so I guess it just took some time to break in?

I hooked up the batteries today to make sure everything worked right and it does except for one thing.

I have it on it's back while doing this.....While giving it some throttle (forward or reverse) it gets this jerkiness like something is catching or dragging when I turn the steering to the stops, left or right...it's smooth when the steering is straight and all the way up too about 85% of maximum throw.
When I have it turned off and turn the steering to the stops and then rotate the tires they spin smoothly, I just can't see anything that would be causing the jerkiness when on throttle and turned fully left or right.

I'm hoping someone has seen this problem and knows what is causing it?

Are you using a Mamba Monster?

yep, 2200 motor and MMM esc

Do you have a Capacitor (1000+ UF, Maybe 10volt to 16volt) you can solder on a old servo lead and plug it into the battery channel on your Receiver.

My MMM was going nuts without it. Actually cutting off all response...

Something like this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iver-Capacitor

You can make one much cheaper though if you have access to an electronics store...