oh ya, thats no possible but thank you! i am in south florida. i wish there was someone else around here that could troubleshoot it. DickyT knows the problem but it is always good to have a second set of eyes on any problem.

as for your price problem, you might be right. for what it takes you to upgrade the bulks and diffs, you can almost get an e-revo or something. but then you will have to upgrade that, obviously. heh. it never stops man, its the sport.

Where in South Florida? I live in Sunrise.

I've found that BL motors, if they aren't secured, will cog when you power 'em up. I think it's because the ESC tries to kick the rotor, and instead of the rotor moving, the case tries to roll around the rotor, and yes, it will cog. Hold that sucker down tight and see if it does the same thing.

As for blown phases, if you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the phases. You should get the same reading within 10%. If you have a lab-type power supply, you can do a similar test, except you set the power supply up to supply 8A of power through each phase. The voltage reading should be within 10% here too. The first way is a good quickie test. The second way is more of a load test, it may show differences you won't see with the first method.

I'm not so sure that holding it loose or tight will make a difference with respect to cogging because the rotor is turning with respect to the windings no matter what is held stationary.

To add to what sleebus said; when you use your ohm meter, expect VERY low readings (or what the meter considers continuity) since the windings are in the 0.01-0.001 ohm range. You'll probably see just the resistance of your test leads. :smile: No matter what, the reading across each phase should be the same.

You can take a AA battery and touch it across each phase. When you do this, the shaft will turn a little. Each phase should turn the same amount and speed.

I don't really think it's a fully blown phase though since the motor does turn.

It could be partially burnt out at the very least (how many strands of wire are in the Neu motors per coil? Maybe a strand or two is disconnected or burnt for some reason). Or if one or two FETs on the ESC are blown in one phase, then the motor would probably still run, but that one phase would probably cause issues on startup, but it would still be able to spin a decent amount of RPM under no load since not a whole lot of current at all will be drawn as compared to trying it in the truck on the ground.

ok first off. thanks for the updated info and checking scenarios.

FIve-oh-Joe: i am at 10th and federal. maybe we could get together tommorow to trouble shoot this beotch? pm me your number and i will call you if thats cool!!!

i definatly want to check this out to find my problem. use a different ESC and a different motor to eliminate the problem. i wouldnt doubt it was the MMM, then again, this is all sounding like the 8XL motor. Joe, maybe you could help me out with this??

Sent you a PM back, but I looked at the PM before this post, so I forgot my number....damn... I'll PM my cell to you in a few minutes.:oops:

Like I said in the PM though, tomorrow is probably undoable for me. Some time during the week or next weekend may be easier though (depends on if I can get a job this week, and a few other stupid things....heh).

What does DickyT think the problem is? And what is this about an 8XL that you were having issues with? In the meantime, if you can crack the motor open and see if any windings are shorted or sliced, maybe that will give you a general idea as to whether it's the motor.

yes the motor turns.

how do i test the AA method exactly? touch one end of the battery to one wire and the other end of the battery to another wire? making sure to touch the +end of the battery to all three wires? i want to do this tonight to eliminate the motor. but then, how can i test the MMM to make sure that isnt the problem or make sure the MMM and the motor are both bad. just my luck.

I thought it was mechanical until now, now I have no clue as i have never had to troubleshoot the non obvious. My issues have always been mechanical, very obvious (look at the pics of my quark I posted somewhere), or easilly determined with the help of you guys (bad bec in my MMM).


I am at a loss here and can help him no further.

ya, great help you are DickyT, great help.. thanks for NOTHING!!!

;)

Gotcha. At first I thought it was between a diff issue and a motor/ESC issue. But I guess after looking at those diff gear pictures, I'm definitely leaning more towards motor/ESC. I wonder if the MMM has an achilles heel!:gasp:

Well now my friend, you are on your own... good luck.....:na:

I think Dicky T needs some help getting that knife out of his back.....:lol: