they made a pistix 2.0. i got one from offshore, but they're out of stock now. here's a link:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=msw-pistix

they also sell it here under speed controls:

http://www.mikessubworks.com/page1.html

Skip the pistix and crap brakes of a air esc... get a 15s MGM with proper brakes and car software (no pistix needed).

Word!

sweet thats nice of you, still trying to decide on a kit. once i get that decided should flow from there hopfully, :lol:

having never used an MGM, i can't really lend an opinion but i had heard of horror stories about how hard they were to program. There's a guy over at Traxxas who got one a month ago and is still trying to figure it out and that was even after reading the instructions on RCM. isn't the place that warranties them in Chezloslovakia too?

go with Castle Creations if you can.

+1

Excellent customer service too. i would also buy a back-up because their warranty repair times can get a little lengthy in the summer months, but as i said in another thread with a great product comes great demand.

Programming the MGM with the radio can be a bit tricky. If your buddy is having problems, have him reset all to defaults and start over. The USBcom makes it so much easier (like castlelink). Yes they are in the Czech republic, and can take a while. I sent one in, not for repair, but for firmware update (old model). I have a couple and they work great. They are expensive though, but they run cool with no fan to break.

I agree... If you can use a castle MMM and 6s, then that would be best. But castle does not make a car controller for over 6s (yet), and an air esc just isn't the best way to go IMO.

i have a nother question about brushless and instead of opening a new thread i will just post it in this one. what happens when you push a brushless motor past 60k rpms? say 68k? does it over heat and blow up, overheat and shut down and the motor is gone? or just brake?

Break? no.

Its just a safe limit since thats what most bearings are rated for, in theory you can swap the bearings over for something better/ higher spec/ smoother etc and that wont be an issue anymore. The main issue really is that BL motors are most efficient in the 30-40k rpm range, so the higher past that you go, the hotter the motor and esc will tend to run. Its also an issue with the rotor, since not many companies wrap it with anything (like CF or kevlar), so the magnets can fly apart at very high rpms- not such an issue with small motors, but your typcial 1/8 motor is more susceptible.

so its really not a heat issue? its more of a magnets can fly apart and your left with a dead motor cause im sure heat can be treated. but the rotor and flying magnets im sure can't.

It is to do with heat- like revving the nuts off a petrol engine, its gonna run very hot.

Heat can be remedied to an extent, depends how much over ~60'000rpm you plan on going; its better to use a more powerful motor that can pull taller gearing, rather than over rev a smaller motor, at least the way I see it.

I got a question when your on the throttle does your motor kv spin up to the 3.7 cell voltage or up to the amount of voltage that is availiable? Lets say under full throttle your batt only show 3 volt per cell, so should you go by that voltage or by the 3.7 volts still. If you go by the lower number your motor is actually spinning slower so in reality you might be able to add another cell with out going over the 60000 rpm limit.

Quality motors can sustain 60k+ rpms for a short duration. So adding another cell to compensate for the lower voltage under load will work, but only if your esc can handle it. But I only recommend an extra cell if you and your car can handle it.

do they make a brushless conversion kit for a CEN Matrix FRE pro kit? im getting one from a guy and a bunch of parts enough he said to build it like twice over, for $225. but anyway brushless kits do they make one for it? or am i going to have to improvise a motor mount and stuff?