^^^ +1. Really, man - where ARE your priorities?!

I couldn't believe what i was reading either.. Speaking of which.. I've got a hellfire to build!

I really think you ought to finish your e-Revo first. ;)

A couple of weeks to install a few cupboards.... drink 10 cans of redbull and take a packet of pro-plus; you'll be finished in an hour!

Too funny..

To be honest, the revo is nearly finished.. but that's not the only truck that's waiting to be finished.. the hellfire is screaming my name at this moment, i think i need to obey..

Well, since my wife is so understanding about RC, the least I can do is install the new kitchen. I could probably do it in 3 or 4 days, but I have that darn job thing to worry about too. I also have to gut and paint the kitchen before the new stuff can go in. Don't worry though, my OCD will kick in and the E-Revo will be breathing fire before you know it!

Ah, the wife.... I understand now. And jobs, those get in the way of our fun alot too.... Never mind eh, something to look forward.

Ok, I have a question right off the bat. The motor didn't come with any mounting screws, what size should I use? I don't want to screw up my brand new motor by using screws that are too long.

Thanks guys!
Cajun

3mm diameter, but the length depends on how thick them mount is, and whether you use the RCM heatsink/clamp (it adds ~1.5mm thickness). I usually turn the screw very gently into the unmounted motor and when it touches a coil, back off 3 or 4 turns. That'll tell you how deep to go.

Thanks, I can figure it out from there. I will be using Mike's mount and heatsink, so I'll figure out what to add for those.

Here's some progress photos:

Paper mock up of trays and mounts:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...perMockUp1.jpg

Aluminum beat into submission:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...uminumFab5.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...uminumFab7.jpg

Trays and mounts sanded, painted and bolted in place:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup1.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup2.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup3.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup4.jpg

With electrics sitting in place:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup6.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup7.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup9.jpg

Stay tuned, more to come!

Good job man! That's a very different setup!

What did you end up doing with the tranny (lock into second, keep 2 speed, etc)? Also, is that Hammered finish paint I see? I love that stuff - it makes a nice hard finish.

Thanks Brian! The idea was to get it as compact as possible. I want to be able to use a stock body without it being pushed out. The batt tray should accompdate up to 16 cells. The only drawback to the configuration I see is that I'm going to have to lengthen the ESC to motor leads by a few inches.

I locked the tranny into 2nd using your method. That is Rustoleum Hammered finish paint. I love that stuff too, nice and hard plus it hides all the imperfections better than any other spray paint I've found.

I have a couple of little things coming from Tower to finish the setup, then I'll be ready to run.

Yeah, hiding imperfections is a "good" thing. :)

A little tip: So you don't need to use as much of the more expensive hammered paint (or multiple layers) to cover the pinholes, spray a thin coating of flat black metal paint first, let dry for 10-15 minutes, and then go over with a thin layer of the hammered stuff. Seems to work better than primer, covers pinholes much easier, and is more chip resistant for some reason. BTW: Your paint job looks fine, this is just for future reference.

looks great, wish mine came together so quickly, will you be testing this wkend or next