The pros vent there tires & there is very little balloning of the tire if any balloning at all. The tape can acctually hurt the tires performance especially when racing . The most popular method of doing this is to use a leather hole puncher. some use 2 vent holes in the tire & some use 4 holes in the tire. A added benifit of doing this is it lets any dirt or water in side the tire get out, which helps the tire stay more balanced . Some even plug the holes in the rim to help keep the dirt out.

Cool thanks for the advice y'all. I just ordered the Maximizer 1/2" offset black beadlock wheels and proline masher tires, they look like a good combo with aggressive tread pattern. I dont understand how punching holes in the tire will keep ballooning to a minimal and wouldn't it even possibly cause it to tear in high HP applications? On the bright side I dont have to use CA glue anymore since I've now got beadlocks :D

Proline and maximizer both suggest venting the tires. I used a leather punch and they haven't torn yet. I haven't been driving with them long though.

Thanks Tim, how are those lst shocks working for you on your savage? I'm thinking of ordering some for mine as its pretty heavy and I dont see the stock shocks lasting all that long.

Got a quick question, if the LVC is set correctly on my ESC what should it do when I reach that voltage? Cut off completely or just lose power all of a sudden?

It'll dump like nitro runs out of gas.

That's a good question. I know on my mini-t it doesn't just stop. It will stop if I gas it hard but then it will keep going if I just give it a little bit I stop when I notice that happens. With something bigger I assume it would just stop or is it meant to be like that all the time.

And the LST shocks seem to work well. They are mounted with an Innovative-rc shock mounting kit which is very nice. Once again they haven't been on the truck long enough to give a full report but so far so good. My only issues with them are that with the shocks being mounted slightly out from the plastic towers they bend the towers in slightly so my body holes don't line up like they used to. Also I think they helped make this happen http://lh6.google.com.au/MTBikerTim/...0/IMG_0614.JPG
It's nice they are adjustable too. I stiffen them up for jumps (to get that extra height and soften them for normal racing around. The aluminium bars destroyed the back of my body really quickly though.

basically, how it works is this. When the voltage gets to that point, it will stop. Obviously, when you don't keep on the gas, let it go, wait a minute, it will go again, but only a short period until the voltage drop hits again. Like I said....like when nitro runs out of gas.

Some controllers allow you to set up a slow cutoff. Which will slow down your vehicle before the cutoff is reached. Hard cutoff will basically shut the controller down.

I think I have seen LVC devices that sound an alarm when you hit the cut-off voltage. Can you imagine what you happen happen if the esc shut down on a plane or ducted fan jet mid-flight, or an MT whilst it was running in the street and a 1:1 came along?....

OK just makin' sure I was hitting the LVC and not over discharging the packs. When I ran it after about 30 mins it all of a sudden lost power, like it would barely move, I didn't run it after this happened as I assumed the LVC kicked in but I wasn't completely sure if Mike had set everything up when he installed the equipment. Though I did check the battery stats on my charger and the 3s showed a voltage of 9volts and my 2s showed 6volts so I'm assuming the voltage cutoff was right at 3.0v/cell, which to me sounds about right. After reading through my Quark manual 3.0v/cell is the highest voltage it allows the cutoff to be at. Does this sound ok?

Yeah, that sounds ok. Unfortunately, the Quark only allows 3v cutoff max, and I like something more like 3.1-3.2v/cell. How long are you waiting after running the pack before you get those voltage readings? The pack voltage should drift back up to ~3.4v+ after sitting unloaded for a while. If not, maybe you're pushing the batts a little too much either by too-tall gearing or using packs that really aren't up to the task...

I'm only waiting a few hours when I get those readings. When the LVC kicked in the motor was red hot, ESC and batteries were barely warm. I know nothing about gearing so I'm pretty much up a creek right now if my gearing is wrong. Though I should mention I was running in medium heigth grass the whole time, goosing the throttle constantly

Wow, they are only 3v/cell after a few hours? Usually they drift back up after ~20 minutes. But, they aren't warm so it doesn't sound like they are being overworked.

Hehe I hope not, if they're not up to the task I'm kinda out of luck as they fit perfectly in my truck. And they were kind of warm I didn't have a temp guage on me ATM so I couldn't tell you exactly how warm. What's considered overworked warm in li-mn(po-ion) standards?