I installed the fan on the MM, and ran a pack in the hotel parking lot. It sure is sweet to just walk outside with the truck and controller and let it rip. I probably don't need the fan, but was bored so I put it on. I can always take it off again. I should have taken the pics before running in the snow:lol:
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3140008.jpg

Here is a pic of the Traxxas cvd's using the HB dogbone cups. You can see that it is a little short. The bone hasn't popped out yet, but it could.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3140004.jpg

And here is the front with the Traxxas dogbone cup. It is a bit longer and holds the cvd better.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3140005.jpg

Next time I have the rear diff apart, I will change the dogbone cups to the Traxxas ones. Too bad I have to split the bulks to get the diff out.:tongue:

do you have a video of it? id love to see what it can do

You may want to put some fuel tubing behind the bone in the cup. Should help prevent everything and keep rattling to a minimum.

Awesome work though!

Here is the crappy test vid I have, hope to get some better vid soon as I get some more days off.

E-Revo test Vid


Thanks, but cvd's usually don't need anything behind the bone to keep it centered, plus the traxxas rubber boots keep everything from rattling.

I got some more video finished today. I took this after work the other day. The suspension was a little stiff due to the cold, lol. You will have to forgive the shaky camera work, I am still working alone on this. I am really liking the way this truck turned out, although I might try some thicker oil in the center diff to slow down the unloading on the front tires.

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1rdOIvi5FuE"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1rdOIvi5FuE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

Here is the video from yesterday. Most of the snow is melted from my sandpit, so I went bashing. I'm still not sure about the center diff. I have 120k diff fluid, and will try some 300k or 500k, but might just make a center spool like David Lamontagn did. Temps stayed pretty good, the motor got warm, but not hot, everything else was barely warm. Got a good 20 minutes of bashing from the batteries, now I have to get a couple more pairs.

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/SCdQzXYN7Lw&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/SCdQzXYN7Lw&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

Well, I ran it some more and blew up the motor. Everything was running really nice, motor temps around 130-140, esc 110-120 and batts around 80-90 degrees. I was doing backflips off my big jump, and with the center diff, it was taking a lot of rpm to complete the rotation. I think the motor was over revving, as the magnet split in half.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130214.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130218.jpg
The magnet separated and scuffed up the windings. I can see that some of the enamel is rubbed off, but I don't think any of the windings are shorted out.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130217.jpg
I JB welded the magnet back together and wrapped it with some kevlar thread. Hopefully it will hold together until I can get a Neu or some other better motor. After 6 hours, I reassembled the motor and test ran it at low RPM and it seems to be running normal. I am planning on running it tomorrow, so I will see if it does hold up.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130229.jpg
While I had the truck apart, I decided to change the wires on the esc to 12g wire, don't know if it will make much difference, but it can't hurt. I also cleaned up the wire routing a bit.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130228.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130225.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130226.jpg
I picked up a pair of the Checkpoint 5400's to try out. They seem to be pretty good for an 18c battery, about the same power as the Trakpower 4900's, but they seem to run 10-15 degrees warmer. I only have 1 run on them so far, so I can't say for sure, but I am happy so far.

Well, it ran perfect for a half pack then the glue failed. The kevlar wrap protected the windings, so no damage done.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/.../P41400021.jpg
So, does anybody know of a glue stronger then JB Weld? It will take a couple of weeks to get a new motor from the states, plus nobody has a 1515/2d in stock, so I would like to try and fix the Feigao. I was going to wait until the Castle Neu's are out, but that won't be for a while yet.

RCM has the 1515/2.5d in stock, how will it work on 4s? The speed calculator says that an 18 tooth pinion will give me the same speed, but the motor rpm is only 23100, which seems really low. I would like to stay with 4s for now, as I just bought some new batteries.

Thanks

I think red loctite is the best permanent glue for metal- it penetrates in to the surfaces to form a nice strong bond. I do know of other places that sell Neus- scroll down this list to the plane/boat section: Clicky. I wouldnt go any lower than about 2000kv for 4s lipo operation, at least thats the general feeling I get from reading around this place.

Hmm, I might try the red locktight. Can't hurt at this point. Thanks for the link, that is an awesome list you have there. Bookmarked:lol:


I needed my fix, so I swapped the twin tranny back in, and the Novak 6.5 is pretty tame compared to the Feigao. Plus not having all the programming options is a step backwards.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4140002.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4140004.jpg

While the center diff was out, I decided to take some pics. It is a little rough, but works good.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150006.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150007.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150008.jpg

Well, off to find my red locktight.:mdr:

That looks pretty cool- a nice drop-in unit/assembly. I wander if Mike could do somethig like that, and provide a little template for drilling the required mounting holes in the chassis....

There is quite a few differant types of red locktite so becareful. The stuff I first got was locktite 569 and that stuff was too strong. I would suggest going with something a lil weaker :)

but with the armature spinning that fast and hard, wouldnt you want the strongest stuff you can get?

I guess so I wouldnt suggest using it though in most areas of the car unless necessary. I just get all sorts off locktite from work so I prefer to use the weaker stuff cuz there is no need for it yet. First time I used it I had a hell of a time breaking torque with out stripping out the screw so i try to advoid it. If he plans on leaving the same motor in there then I dont see any problem with it.

then you might have solved his adhesive problems!