According to the speed calculator, you are geared for 41.7 mph, when the Lipo is at nominal voltage (3.7V/cell), though when at 4.2V/cell, the speed is at 47.3mph.

I would say you are slightly overgeared. Try dropping to a 13T pinion instead.

Or, with the 1600, try a 15T pinion, these both get you to about 39 mph on 18.5V, and just under 45 on 21V.

I always gear for just under 40mph (like 38-39) when at 3.7V/cell, and my Medusa is so cool, I could put my hand onto it for ages, and it would be fine.

Ran the buggy today with the 36-70mm 1600kv motor, 5s., 14/40. Was absolutley amazing to run. Speed, torque and run time were exceptional. Temps were down quite a bit too, 140-150 degrees on the motor, ESC and battery just warm. Now if I were only a much better driver this thing would be unstoppable.

I've always liked Ofna/Hobao products and now I will only run their stuff. How cool would it be to see them do a Hyper 9-Te? :whistle:

What differences are there suspension vice between the hyper 9/9e and the ST ?
Other than the wheels :intello:
Could I just get the 9e and different A-arms and gear for the bigger wheels ?

No, it's a completely different design to any of the previous Hypers (including the ST). There's no way that putting the truck arms on would work, as the c-hubs and knuckles are not anywhere near the same design.

Sorry

Buggy width is about 310mm. The ST is about 430mm wide, they are not even close.

Here are two pdfs:
The ST:
http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/pro...ed_Drawing.pdf

The 9:
http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/pro...ed-Diagram.pdf

Ah, got you back for my useless google searches earlier! :yipi:

Made a few changes today. Took out the receiver mount and put the esc directly on the chassis. Now with 6s pack I am just under 8lbs (7lbs 15.5oz)
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...g?t=1243653291

I raced mine again last night with the 2200 mamba in it and it is pulling
270ma a min any ideas on another motor that will improve my run times that I don't have to turn all of the settings way down to run?
I am trying for 20 min on a 5000mah battery

Probably a 1600kv Medusa 70mm, or the 1550kv Tekin. I'm going to try the 1700kv Tekin tonight, but the smallest pinion I can fit comfortably is a 16 tooth. I'm also going to find out if the Xray XB808 42 tooth spur will fit.

Not really. The only way to get more run time from the motor would be to:

1. Increase Efficieny (not easy as the Castle Motors are basically Neus)
2. Decrease kV (and therefore speed)
3. Go for a slightly smaller motor (but not too small, as it might not be man enough, and will cause heat buildup, and therefore decreased efficiency)

Only thing is, none of these is likely to be enough. According to your readings (270mAh per minute) a 5000mAh pack will get you 18 minutes and 30 seconds. That's assuming that the pack drains completely to 0mAh, which it won't.

I would go with some of the measures above, and a slightly larger battery (like a 5300mAh).

well I broke my first arm at the track today. was able to finish with some good old zip ties though.

when I got home my ebay order was here so I already got a new arm on it.

did the arm split down the inside pin?


The shocks should come with these also.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hyper-9-Upgrade-...lenotsupported

yup right at the pin.

I was hoping they had aluminum caps. My plastic ones are already showing a lot of where from a few flips on the street. Wish I had seen those before I order some more plastic ones.

hello
which is the smallest pinion use with the 2650KV engine ??

have combo the someone has with 4s to run ?

greats from germany

I also broke a front upper and lower arm at the track today. Of course I launched funky off a small double and smacked a 4x4 piece of wood on pit lane. The arm did split down the middle right at the pins, but honestly any buggy arm would have broke the way I hit. I also broke the front chassis "brace" part number ofn29302, but again another freak thing. I was using a t-bone racing front skidplate/bumper, it caught the dirt on a bad landing and snapped and downflexxed the chassis enough to break this part, screwed my steering geometry up and was really hard to finish the race, but I finished third.

So far I have ordered enough parts to keep me rolling and I love this buggy.

had an issue with the set screw that holds part 29315 ( a little block that the center diff rear cup slides over), it was pretty stripped from the factory and I can't get it out. I'll be sending in that portion of the car after the race this sunday to see what ofna can do. Other than this, a leaky rear diff (had a similar issue with my RC8FT when new, maybe pressure change with shipping?), and the fact that whoever did the threadlocking looked like they spilled it on the front of the car it went apart and back together nicely. I like how easily the shocks assembled, and they are huge.

I went with the stock mounting location for my electronics. I removed the big outer casing that the speed passion ESC uses to get a better fit on the ESC mount plate. Here are some pics I took with electronics mounted. Rear pic showing the answerrc toe-in plate. just need to finish up the beater body. :

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1644.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1645.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1646.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1647.jpg

I've broken a front arm too (same split as everyone else - at the inner pin).

Apparently Hobao are working on a new design front arm.

Marvin,

can you post a pic of the breakage?

So by the sounds of it, this buggy is doing pretty well other than the weak front a-arms. Would a truggy motor fit in? Or is it too long? Is the battery tray pretty secure and strong? Is it made out of plastic?

the battery tray appears to be quite sturdy. Only thing to watch for is if you use long packs, the wires may bunch on the tray as its higher up than other trays.

I am excited to see what this thing can do.

Here's mine :

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h901.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h902.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h903.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h904.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h905.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h906.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h907.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h908.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h909.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/h910.jpg


Medusa 60mm 2000kv, 14t pinon, 4S 6000mah lipo.

Gonna try to run her tomorrow.

Regards,
Joe Ling

well I have had my first issue with the speed passion ESC. Didn't even get to run it. :flaming:

Had everything all set, ready to go, and when I went to turn it on, the switch was VERY loose, just tapping it would kick it on from on to off. Tried it a few times, and off it comes. Great... And since the switch is integrated (3 wires), I am not sure what wire can I splice together like you do on other cars to get the power to just stay on when you plug the battery in. Very dissappointed. Had to install a Mamba Monster 2200Kv setup in the vehicle which barely fits.

Here's the crappy power switch:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1659.jpg

I am sending this to shawn and see what he says. If it is possible to splice the wires and they will still warranty the ESC, I am willing to give it a try. as it sits now though, I am going with this or I won't be able to run:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...E/DSCF1656.jpg

I liked how the speed passion setup went in the vehicle, but I am very dissapointed on how the switch just came apart. I got contacted by Shawn about the switch, and he is going to send me out a new switch and I can splice the power wires together to get my by. Just need to confirm which are the power wires to be sure.

As for the 2200Kv, I fit about a 15T pinion, don't think I can go smaller unless I grind on the motor case some.

The 2200Kv has A LOT of torque. Need to play with the settings a bit for this.

So what is the front and rear diff ratio on this buggy? A friend of mine has one on the way and we are trying to figure out what motor to get for racing on 5s. I'm thinking 1400kv Tekin. Not sure if you could gear it down far enough on the 1700 and 5s.

Can anyone tell me the f/r ring and pinion sizes. Thanks.

I believe its 11/43. I have the 1400kv in mine, but I run it on 6s geared 17/40. Its more then I need for the track and ended up with the punch at 3-4 on the tekin esc.

It's 3.909090909 (or 11/43 as gixxer says).

By the way, I've just sold my Hyper 9E. Not because I don't like it, but more because I just don't keep cars for that long. I did like the handling, though durability appeared to be an issue with it. Also, I kind of like home-grown conversions more, you can put your own personality into it. So now I'm building a D8!

Well if any parts need to be boiled, boil those D8 parts, especially the front spindles and carriers.

I know someone did ask about it in this thread and I was also looking for it so here it is:

Hyper9e manual in pdf file
http://ofna.com/pdf/14351-HYPER-9e.pdf

The HB plastic is very durable, no boiling needed.

I'm just giving Marvin a heads up. I had a D8 and broke two spindles and two carriers on easy landings. Friend of mine broke one also.

still very happy with mine. only complaint I have is the front arms and ofna is suppose to have a new version coming out.

I'm not complaining about the car, or parts. It's just, I change cars very often, as I like experimenting with something new. The 9E just didn't quite suit my purpose. I can get at most 12 minutes on the track with the batteries I use. I'm looking for 20 minutes, so I have to change packs. No-one does packs large enough - capacity wise - but small enough to fit in the box nicely. I would need ~6600mAh at 18.5 V to acheive this. No-one in England imports such a battery.

My new set-up is two 18.5V 3300mAh packs in parallel, one each side of the centre driveshaft. This works better, as it doesn't off balance the chassis so much.

I know I could have got a 6S pack that would work, but, like many others, I don't want to run my MMM on 6S for reliability reasons.

I haven't had much to report here. I am waiting on getting my part back from ofna so I don't have a stripped screw sitting there. hope to see something end of this week, maybe beginning of next depending on when they get to it.

Then after that, may finally get to give the Silver Arrow ESC a try when I get it back with the switch replaced. I am very curious to see how much smoother sensored operation will be compared to my experiences with the MMM and Neu 1512 2.5D/F setup.

Cleaning this buggy after its first race was brutal. Not having stone guards with the giant body that doesnt fit the car = a mess! My first mod was to fit a guard on the right side. The right takes all the damage <Servo, ESC, transmitter box, and motor> The left side doesnt have anything to get destroyed, the battery box takes the beating. FYI the body is a JC High flow for a RC8 trims out fine.

any more news guys?

nope, still really like mine but have to send my tekin in for service so 8th scale is out for a week or two.

I found a video on youtube of the hyper 9E in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjId5aGiy2U

Check this out LINK

Not too late!

Only 2 months and 11 days...

must be the conversion kit

Finally got in a track run with my Hyper 9E. Unfortunately it was short as I had electronic issues. But, the track performance was quite impressive. The vehicle was planted around the track even when less than ideal tires, and changed direction faster than I was used to with my previous RC8 conversion that I felt was pretty good already. It jumped very true and level, and responded quite well to the power I had going through it. Also, I had no weird pitching issues even with the heavier PQ6000XP 4S battery pack.

All in all, I would highly recommend the vehicle. with a few simple mods, its one heck of a car.

good to hear you finally got to run it. I have a heavy pack (6s 4300mah) in mine and it doesn't seem to effect the balance while running. Probablly because all the weight is so close to the center of the car.

hope to have my tekin back this week so I can run it somemore.