All done. It's gonna work. The Lexan pieces are from scrap from a body, once I knew what I wanted to do, the whole mod took a little less than an hour to make.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...att_doors6.jpg

Wow.. Looks really neat, how did you bend the lexan?

heat...
Looks good Mister crash, what else could you possibly do to this thing?

I didn't have to bend the Lexan, I used a part that already had a bend in it. Scrap pieces left over after trimming a body.

Running the ERBE today, I suddenly lost center diff action. I found this surprising as I just rebuilt the thing with a 100k diff lube. Once I took everything apart, I found out that the Stainless Steel output shafts I made seized in the output holes of the diff case and diff cap. It seems that Stainless Steel is not hard enough. Also, they were made out of a stainless steel rod that was 5.98 mm in diameter. It was probably just a tad too big. The modified TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts I used in my other diffs are a little smaller and have a bit more clearance so there's probably less rubbing and less heat build up because of the rubbing so they work much better. I tried the SS to keep cost down but using the Traxxas output shafts is better. There are marks on the SS shafts where they got grinded by the hardened steel of the diff case and cap.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...fts_grind1.jpg

I also noticed that my motor was a little bit out of alignment with the chassis so I took out the two aluminum motor plates I was running and they are bent. It appears that 6 mm of aluminum is not enough. Of course they are made of a very cheap aluminum, not that stiff at all. A motor plate machined out of T6 7075 aluminum would probably not bend like that. I did the best I could to take pics of the plates next to a straight edge in front of a light source to show the bends. In the meantime, I went back to the 6 mm carbon fiber motor plate I was using at the beginning of this build.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._alu_bent1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._alu_bent2.jpg

you must race hard...or maby it's the E-revo's motor mount setup, i'm just using the little old 3mm blue motor mount that comes with the E-maxx trannies (single motor conversion of coarse)
and it's not bent:neutral:

Are you using the plate that places the motor up in the center over the tranny instead of the ERBE's plate that place the motor to the side of the tranny? I have seen a few conversions that have the motor centered over the tranny. The way the ERBE is set up, the motor plate is secured to the tranny with 4 screws that are all on the left portion of the plate. The right portion houses the motor and is just floating with no support. With the weight of the motor hanging on it.

Bummer. You can really see how much material has been ground away on the closeup shots of the outputs, quite nasty.

yep that's what i have.
it must be absolutly rubbish for COG but i got used to it and cant feel much difference between my convert and a proper ERBE.

but my plate has not bent:surprised:

Well if that's your truck in your avatar, I would say we have very similar racing styles :lol: So I don't know what made my motor plates bend like that. :neutral:

Running my ERBE in the last few days, I noticed that it was easier to roll it over when making tight turns. I checked my sway bar set up and the front Tekno sway bar I run (Tekno front/Traxxas rear) has become so soft that it is now useless. Many don't beleive that the Tekno sway bars are prone to premature metal fatigue because they are too short and small. Here's a good proof. Longer and thicker sway bars don't have to bend as much and last longer. I replaced this Tekno sway bar with one I made. It is a bit thicker and taller so it will last longer. The same is installed on my nitro Revo and has been bash and race tested for over a year.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...l_fatigue1.jpg

This is the Tekno sway bar I was using. The ends were bent upwards. Whether the ends are bent upwards or left stock, I experienced the same kind of premature metal fatigue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ars_front4.jpg

This is the sway bar I made out of 2.3 mm piano wire. This same sway bar has been working awsome on my nitro Revo.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t_swaybar1.jpg

Hey gang...

I wanted to go back to your discussion about battery connectors. I have done a lot of work in the car audio industry on power delivery in high-current applications. You would be very surprised at how limiting wire and connections can be.

I started off using Anderson connectors, but after some research on them for an OEM audio system project I am doing at work, found out they are only rated for 30 Amps of current at 65*C... Given that voltage is speed, I switched to Deans based on their reputation. I like the concept that there is good surface area and a solid connection.

The EC3 connectors look to me like a set of bullet connectors in a custom housing. I like the idea of the bullet connectors from Hobby City, but unless you can really feel how tight the connections are, it's hard to tell how well they will work.

I have been intending to contact one of the RC car magazines and offer to do a connector test to determine ultimately who offers the best connector - but I doubt any of them would go for it, since they would be bound to loose advertising from the 'not winning' companies..

Anyways, use the most solid connectors your can, we are drawing a LOT of current through already undersized wiring - the slightest increase in resistance from a connector can definitely reduce performance.

BTW mistercrash.. I still want to get out and see that beast run!

Any testing you might do on connectors could be posted right here in this forum if the RC magazines are not interested. There would be a lot of interest in connector testing I suspect and what the final results would be. If you want to see my truck run, I will be at Hardcore RC race track Sunday the 26th to race in the club series race #4. Look for Raymond :smile: But no laughing at my driving ability :mdr:

I sent an email to Derek at Xtreme... we'll see what they say.

I don't laugh at anyones driving.. it's all likely better than mine!

Someone PMed me saying that the template for the mud flaps can't be seen on my Photobucket account so I'm sorry for the large pic, I am posting it directly in here in hopes that it can be seen and downloaded.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._template1.jpg

i cant see the pic

mistercrash.. email me the pic and I'll host it for you...

Weather permitting, my son and I will try and get out to hardcore for a quick visit.

BTW, if you are (or anyone else) is planning on ordering anything from hobby city, I'd like to get some new Lipo batteries.. maybe we can share some of the shipping costs..

Can anyone see the pic now?

Dave, I have a lot of lipos that I am running right now, for now I don't wish to order anymore although these new ones from Zippy are tempting.

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 30C hardcase pack

pic still no worky

If you want to sell some old ones to try some new ones, let me know.. I just need a pair that will work with my e-revo.. my 4000mAh NiMHs just don't have the balls...

New Zippys?

Link?

I got my Turnigy's awhile ago, but have been waiting for my powerpoles to come...

Grrrr..... Any of these work? The link for the new Zippys is in the post above, just click on it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._template1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._template1.jpg

Template

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._template1.jpg

Both of the posts worked...

The hardcased? They want $20 for a a case? =/

These are the new hardcase Zippy Flightmax

http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store..._hardcase_pack

Actually the prices are (not signed in)

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 20C $28.84

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 20C hardcase pack $33.57

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 30C hardcase pack $46.69


So the case is only and extra $5

Ah, I usually don't sign in until I am going to check out.

Dang, $33.57, I may have to pick some up now..

go for the 30C...trust me:wink:
if they fit that is.
yeah i guess we do drive the same hehe.
that was my old nitro revo in that pic...i'll update that avvy when todays race photo's come through.

no ive never bent mine at all...it'd be interesting if we could swap revo's for a race...too bad there is a long distance between us :(
maby you could try the E-maxx plate? you'd have to spin the tranny 180 and in theroy it should be a bad thing in a race CoG wise....but it'd be interesting nonetheless

mistercrash : the trick for diff block dont work with the stock e-revo diff I put the complete diff in a birthday balloon and then put in into the bulkhead and seem more tight then before should work just fine ? ... I cut 3 holes for the diff output ... and checked my diff pinion and ring gear look like brand new and the pinion dont needed to be shimmed and I dont got any move side by side with the diff case too.. but once I opened the diff the seal were the screw goes was broke so the diff leak but not by alot anyways im going to buy a seal and change the diff fluid one day.. and I forget the bearing was all fine ;)

Quessé t'as fait là toé sti! Mette té diffs dans dé balounes :mdr: Pourquoi pas du glaçage à gâteau dans l'diff tant qu'à y être :tongue: C't'une joke là :yes: Bin si ça marche çé tant mieux.

un plan de neye comme quon dit :)

j'ai défait le diff avant aussi pis lui pas eu besoin de rien toucher il est parfaitement tight cétait seulement lui d'en arriere qui avait un lousse

Bibliotheque!

Hahha.. Sorry, had to do that...

Hey mistercrash, where did you get the piano wire?

OK, so, who's up for placing an order for Lipo's? Maybe I'll start a new thread?

Dave... I'm down! I need 4 or more. 4 for sure.

The wires I have were available at my LHS in the airplane section. But I found this also. I ordered a pack of ten 18'' rods to try out.

http://www.smallparts.com/Music-Wire...AF&pf_rd_t=301

Thanks mistercrash...

Weather isn't looking too good for the race tomorrow.. calling for showers in the morning and afternoon...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...h/IMG_1384.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...h/IMG_1386.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...linh/008-1.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...mblinh/010.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...mblinh/006.jpg

Dang, that turned out good, I may have to make some out of some rubber tubing from a few bike tubes...

Smallparts.com was fast in shipping the wires to me here in Ontario, Canada. I got them yesterday and what they sent me is better than what I was getting at the LHS. The wires are stiffer and are springier than what I was using before. So I went ahead and made a front sway bar right away and installed it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...usic_wire1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ars_front6.jpg

Update on the battery doors. They are awsome, I am absolutely confident that the doors will not open up while running anymore.

Sweet stuff!

Have you tried the ejector pins that some people use for hinge pins on the EMaxx?

I tried tool steel in the past with very good results but that was for on road cars. Never heard of the ejector pin EMaxx hinge pin thingamajigger. I was looking at this also. Might be good for those who like to go to extremes in saving weight.

Titanium 1/8th inch rod