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pin screw from a stock maxx?
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Yeah, they should screw into the RPM arms like it would a stock a-arm. Otherwise, you can certainly buy some nicer aftermarket pins- but be warned, the RPM arms are abit fatter than stock arms, so you may need to trim the arms in order to install the little C-clips / e-clips on both ends of the hingepin. Not a big problem, just something you need to be aware of. Have a look on ebay for 'e-maxx hinge pins', comes up with plenty of results.
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i have 5.5 bullet contacs to my lipo. should i go for 5.5 bullet on my esc or should i change all of them to deans?
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Do what you want.
I got Traxxas hcc on my batteries and the standard bullet connectors that came with my ESC. Just make sure you use connectors that can handle the currents your system will pull. |
I personally have stock traxxas on my g-maxx but I am going to change them to castle 6.5mm bullets. 5.5 bullets should be fine though.
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5.5mm is what I use for everything- cheap, readily available and easy to solder with just a ~50 watt iron.
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f*ck...this cant be right. help me.
[IMG]http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010086.jpg[/IMG] someting is missing, i think it is the 4943 part from the t-maxx, is that right? |
4943 should have the right part included, annoying that you have to buy the complete stering assembly to get the one part.
Did FLM not include one of those nylon spacers? Back then with the gorillamaxx G3 there were 2 spacers included.... But I think you can just go to a hardwarestore and get a tube with the required diameter. |
FLM have mave a bad work...they didnt shipper my shocktower and the front hybrid bulk didnt include the output for traxxas stoch shafts.
i have the 3905 tranny and FLM outputcup for the center, how do i put them together?.. i will put my lipo together in serie. is it possible to put + to - between the lipo and then + and - on the esc. then its an serie... or must i have a serie contact? |
You put RED of the ESC on RED of battery one, put BLACK of bat1 on RED of bat2 and BLACK of bat2 to BLACK of ESC.
As for the drivecups and the tranny, I don't understand your problem. Can you try to discribe it another way or make a picture of the parts? |
to the outputcup i have to use one 4mm set screw but the out putshafts from the tranny have a opening to fit the traxxas stockcentershaft. the 4 mm screw will land up in the opening.
i would like to put the set screw on a flat area , but the only flat area on teh output shaft have a opening. do you understund?or do i have to post at picture? |
I think I understood...
I had the same "problem" with the tranny of my old maxx back when I still was planning to use ist. I just put the screws where the hole is and tightened them. As long as the diameter of the screw is lager than the diameterr of the hole, this shouldn't be a problem. Use threadlock! |
okey i will try that..maybe use a long screw and a nut?
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no, only use one set screw, you want as much friction between the surface of the drive cup and the tranny outdrive, und you don't get that by applying pressure from opposite sides of the drivecup
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okey i get it:-) maybe the opening in the outdrive is good.
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FLM will send me an alu spacer for the stering.
i have change oil in my diffs. 7000 in front and 3000 in rear. but the front moves easyer than the rear, i wonder if i have to little oil. is it possible to put the diff back in the wrong way...i did not force it togheter but i wonder if the small things inside are in the right position.. |
When putting oil in the diffs, the best way I found is to put the spider gears in, then put the oil in until its almost overflowing, then put the ringgear/cap back on which also holds the remaining spider gear- tighten the screws in a diagonal pattern (1,4,2,3, as though they are numbered left to right, top to bottom). Assuming you didnt miss out any gears or gaskets, and you didnt also fill the diff housing itself with oil, then when you try turn the wheels in opposite directions (on the front end, not connected to the tranny), you should feel more resistance vs the rear end. There shouldnt be any/ very much backlash between the diff and pinion gear either when you rotate the pinion shaft by hand.
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i have FLM hinge pins and RPM arms. i have to trim the arms. but what is best, trim everything on one side or little on each side?
update: [IMG]http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010070.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010075.jpg [/IMG] [IMG]http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010102.jpg[/IMG] http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010109.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010111.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010113.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010005.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1010007.jpg |
You can shave a little off each side of the arm to make it fit, probably best so that you end up with an even finish, not one side thinnner than the other (its only like 1mm so not overly critical). Nice job on the shocks, they look great, as does the rest of the truck- where did you find those really long rear posts ( square? )?
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i order all "stockparts" from towerhobbies.
proline extended body mounts http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWNR9&P=7 ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/Proline-600310-E...item53de155411 |
Oh cool, I didnt know long square posts like that existed- only ever seen the old round posts for many years... *puts on his best Baldrick voice* "I have a cunning plan..." :intello:
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hmmm interesting...
iam whating for a small small package from FLM. they will send me my alu spacer for my stering, but it take time... and i need to buy some sort of radio. i am think of buy the new spektrum DX2s 2.4ghz. |
maybe this is just me, but I would definately take something with 3 channels if the price isn't that much higher.
you never know what you might need it for:mdr: |
maybe, but what can i do with the 3:e channel?
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Shift servo maybe, if you ever wanted to try the 2spd upgrade. Or, maybe if you get a little pico-switch (r/c on/off switch), you could use the 3rd channel to turn some lights on and off, or maybe a horn even! :lol: I like that last idea- useful sometimes...
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ha ha thats funny! where can i find a horn?whats i pico-swich?can i turn the car on/off?
hmm i find Dx3s at ebay for $180. thats a nice price. |
For a horn, any little buzzer you can buy from somewhere like radioshack would work, something like a 5-12v item would work with this:
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/PicoSwitch.htm Put a small ~9v battery on one side, and the buzzer on the other, then you can turn it on and off via the rx. You wont be able to turn the truck on and off though- the rx needs power in order to control the switch, so if you switch the truck off some how via the esc = no power. For lights, you could either use the picoswitch above + some large LEDS, or use the item below for a simpler setup: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/EasyLights.htm |
hmm dont get it. dont i connerct the switch to the reciver?isnt the switch the horn?
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The picoswitch is just an on/off switch in itself- you plug it into the rx to control it. You have to connect up a horn and battery to the switch itself, then you can turn it on & off- rather like an esc; the esc does nothing on its own without a battery and a motor.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/...ch-diagram.jpg Just swap the lightbulb for a buzzer in this example diagram. |
why why why. what is wrong.
my drivshafts in the front(5451x) are to long or the RPM a-arms to short... this is not funny, any idee?what to do? |
hm...
got the right turnbuckles? exactly which a-arms did you get? |
i have all the right parts.
rpm arms: 80462 axle carriers:80032 traxxas driveshafts:5451x |
no, you don't.
you need the axle carriers for the new maxx: 80582 |
f**k
thanks alot |
I absolutely understand your anger!
Don't belive me? Guess what mistake I made wih my g3:lol: |
Haha i understund,i have order à pair now.thanka again
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Looking good so far :yes:
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admit it!
the little girl is who's building the truck, not you:lol: |
Shiny :happy:
Good choice for the parts ! I have a similar setup (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24653) and it's really durable and sturdy ! What did you plan to secure the lipo packs ? I tested multi-strap method....really ineffective... I really advise you to use boxes (RCM custom trays or Novak boxes : http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...5050/135.0.1.1, cheaper). Good job so far, can't wait the final result ! And don't forget to dremel the front upper arms (or the chassis) because they rub against the chassis. |
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