Hopefully he is having better luck with the handling on his, but I will say that mine handles like a semi truck..... :no:

Krawlin I forget this is your build. The dude your own build thread would be saweet!

I don't mind him posting it here, I mean the thread title isn't "Krawlin's Monster GT Conversion With A Center Diff", it's just "Monster GT Conversion With A Center Diff", so it kind of leaves it open to anyone. Like I said, I don't mind him posting it at all, I'm glad that he is. It encourages me to make improvements on my own design.


Speaking of which, a bit of an update here, I am ordering a whole bunch of cap head, button head, and countersunk screws from McMaster-Carr, but I plan on replacing anything with a button head screw on the upper deck of the chassis with a cap head screw if I can. I hate button head screws because they always strip out. I may give some Torx M3 thread button head screws a try though and see if they don't strip as much.

Also getting some M4 cap head screws, with 3mm hex. Going to be using those for holding the motor to the mount, I'm sick of stripping these wimpy 2.5mm hexes on M4 screws. I may also use them to hold everything down with my new design, should be pretty sweet though.



And another hint for my new design change.... first hint was it was that I was taking a "suspended" approach at the re-design, another hint is that it will be attached in a different place than before. I love being vague and making people guess... :lol:

sorry for the invasion...but my English is very limited... so I post some pics that all...:neutral:
I can't explain all I want, due to the language border....I was a bad student....:whistle:

just waiting to see your new design Krawlin

just a pic of the bash of yesterday

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020093.jpg

I'm working on a video.....

Is the dude on the bicycle about to bunny-hop your truck? Haha!

What happened to the right front wheel? Did the upper arm break?

Edit: Oh, and I suggest you get some UE Racer-X Knucklehead shock towers, you won't ever bend them!

too many power and not enough control....:whistle:
It's new era tower, not easy at all to bind...and I don't think that UE made some tower for MGT....:neutral:
the upper arm didn't break, it's just the pillow ball who pop off...

and no this is not me !!! :na: (all this kids... I think this is too dangerous for playing with all this kids around...)

(not easy too find the good word...so sorry if it's incomprehensible....)

I could be complete;y wrong on this, but I think Maxx shock towers will bolt up to the MGT. If I remember correctly, they end up being a little shorter, like a ½", but that's not too bad, and you will get a much stronger tower! New Era uses 6061-T6 aluminum, UE used 7075-T6 aluminum, which is MUCH, MUCH stronger!

If I remember right the new era tower is in 7075-T6.... but I can't find the info....:eyes:

and the UE Racer-X Knucklehead shock towers don't fit on the MGT....
look at the new era design and the UE design...:neutral::no:

the little video

http://www.vimeo.com/12013825

I'm just a beginner.... I discover the amazing power of electricity.... :surprised:

If a Maxx tower bolts up, save some money and just get a FLM tower - also 7075-T6.

Actually everything FLM makes to my knowledge is 6061-T6, billet of course. Most definently the shock towers. The flm towers are so tall that if it did bolt up it would work just fine. Lots of adjustablity here.

ok, but FLM or UE don't fit on the MGT...:neutral:

Yea, FLM and New Era make almost all of their parts out of 6061-T6. The only parts they make that are 7075-T6 are their diff-cups and a couple other smaller parts.

None of the Maxx parts will bolt up to a Monster GT as far as I know. The Monster GT uses a completely different style of shock tower mounting than the Maxx. The MGT uses a large "H" style foot on the tower and it anchors at each of the 4 ends of the "H" foot, and this foot mounts pretty much flat onto the chassis (angled up front for caster but that's a given). The Maxx uses a vertical style of shock tower mounting, where it butts against small upright's on the bulkheads and uses 4 screws to hold it vertically against the uprights on the bulkheads. The MGT design is actually stronger as it distributes the load over a greater area, and with aluminum towers can be made even stronger by TIG welding 4 braces from about the middle of the tower down to each leg of the "H" foot. The bulkheads are also a bottom/end loading design, where they actually slide into the end and up from the bottom into the chassis, with the chassis spanning almost the full length of the truck, where on a Maxx the bulkheads simply bolt onto the ends of the chassis. The Maxx design is more modular in a way, because it only takes 8 screws to remove the rear bulkhead assembly with arms and all from the chassis, and the front only requires like 12 screws to remove everything. IMO the MGT seems less parts intensive and it's easier to work on. An overall better design really.


EDIT:
To TheDude,
Awesome video, that thing flies! Looks fun! Mine is like that when I gear it up but not quite that fast, but I keep it geared low so it's more controllable.

I'll have to dig through my emails from them - I bent one of their towers, and I swear she told me they were machined from 7075.....but then I did ask her several other questions.....hmmmm....me thinks yer right.....

Great video Dude, truck looks like a real handful- much fun :mdr:

Here is a quick teaser shot, it doesn't show very much at all and that's the whole point. However, you will notice the current design with the foot on the bottom of the motor mount to bolt to the chassis, nothing new there, but there is something added in the picture, and there has been alot taken off the mount since the picture was taken. I've gotten my re-design aluminum finished, just some basic finish work with the Dremel to do and a couple holes to drill.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1383.jpg

more pics !!!!! :lol:

And now we know.
http://www.novarcproducts.com/_wp_ge...cd8730d_0a.jpg

CLICK FOR NOVA RC

yes but:neutral:

http://www.novarcproducts.com/_wp_ge...wpde9f1892.gif

Well I mean at least we know what they look like. LOL sorry

:lol:

but I think it's a 2 pieces design (it seems no ?)

If RPM made MGT shock towers I'd buy them. I would prefer them over aluminum ones actually, since I'm not going to add a wing mount or anything like that.

I'll take another teaser picture of my motor mount in a bit.

Here are some more teaser pics of the motor mount. I will say that it is done minus finish work and 4 more holes that need to be drilled. I have not tested it yet but it will be stronger than the previous design as it will be more securely mounted. Think of how they pick up smaller boats (in the 40 to 130 foot range) from the water, and that will help with figuring out my design.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1384.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/DSCN1385.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/DSCN1386.jpg

Steel? Wow!

This mount has been steel since I decided to completely redo my center diff motor mount with something less hack looking (and performing) a couple months ago. I don't really care about weight since this truck weighs less than my E-Maxx, and I know how to weld and I have lots of steel available to me, so it's the best thing to make a motor mount out of in my case.

Got some more work done to it, got all the holes drilled in it and now I just have to do some more finish work on it. Have to order another Turnigy LiPo before I can run it though, one of mine had a bad cell and I wasn't able to revive it.

I'll post some actual pictures of the motor mount tomorrow.

except for the steering knuckles of RPM :yes: (I'm gonna put this for mine cause I break a lot of stock steering knuckles...)
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...T.htm#carriers

Alright guys, here it is. Not totally done yet, just have the finish work left to do, but I got alot of it done yesterday and so far so good.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1387.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1388.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1389.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1390.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1391.jpg


It's a hanging setup, nothing holding it on at the bottom of the chassis, only at the top, and the diff basically hangs from the motor mount. Nothing super amazing, but I thought it would look a lot cooler than the previous setup. Besides, I have to have something that can give "TheDude"'s motor mount some competition. :mdr:

While I wait for a new LiPo from HC, I will clean the mount up a lot with files and the dremel, as well as dunk it in some muriatic acid for a few hours to clean it really well and save some work with the files (it will smooth out the surface quite a bit, I've done it before with other parts with great results). I also need to clearance the chassis a bit more for the wide plastic spur I have now, so I'll try to do it in such a way that looks factory rather than the current hack job I did with a sanding drum on my Dremel. Stay tuned for more updates!

Damn! That thing looks awesome!!! If you could have someone turn that into a CAD/CAM file, and then have it CNC machined out of a solid chunk of billet aluminum (still with the removable, bolt-on section for diff access/removal), you would have something you could market, sell, and make quite a bit of money on!

Uber Beef! I like it!

Looks very nice, hit it with a coat of paint or something to keep it from rusting man. Good work

No color, Laquer clear in a spray bomb !

Nice engineering and looks plenty strong !

Thanks! I know how to use AutoCAD 2010 pretty well (took a course at the community college for it), and I'm trying Inventor out on my own, so I could draw it up, but getting that machined would be awesome. The price of the billet block for something that big and the amount of waste from machining it would make it too expensive to sell probably. If there was a huge aftermarket for MGT's that was more like UE stuff then it would be more likely to sell, and I could make one for Maxx's too, but it's probably not worth it. I'm not sure how well RCM-Mike would like me trying to market them either considering they are somewhat similar to his universal center diff motor mount.

Thanks guys! I plan on clear-coating it once all of the finish work is done.

Groovy, thats definately a different approach compared to what we're used to seeing.

:intello: really nice work man !!
like this different point of view, it's original and look really solid :great:

I bend my motor mount, so my friend gonna make it in 8mm....:mdr:

Thanks!


And how did you bend that?! It looked really solid in those pictures you have of it, how thick is it? And what grade of aluminum is it?

Small update, got my MGT torn down, waiting on my new chassis. Going to do some mods to the new one right after I get it, including countersinking the holes for the mud guards so I can use flat head screws, so I won't have to put pieces of velcro over the screws to protect the LiPos like I did with button head screws. I need to find an OEM dog bone for the rear center shaft as well, my current setup is kind of hack and it's getting really sloppy and worn out. I'll have more pictures of it later once I get the new chassis and put it all back together.


EDIT: Found the perfect pair of OEM dogbones on Nitrohouse.com, it's a front and rear center set for the Hyper 9 1.0, and they are both exactly the length I need, 93mm front and 115mm rear, talk about good luck! http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=21011 And they have a chrome finish, which doesn't show pitting from rocks like black drive shafts tend to. Going to be ordering those tonight.

Hi
I don't know how I bend it, maybe in the skate-park (a bad place for the truck.....but great for the jump....:whip:)
It's a little bending, very little, (don't know how to explain that... ) but my friend say it's better to do it in 8mm, for secure it...
If I remember right it's 2017A (he don't have a 7075T6 in stock and I don't really want to wait too much time :whistle:)

today I'm gonna make a real ESC support in carbon... I don't trust the zip-tie:no: (and I've got a Traxxas support for hold it :yes:)

I've done it :intello:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020128.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...g?t=1275325984



just missing some screw and it can gooooo :yipi::yipi:

That looks awesome! I really like it!

Edit #1: I REALLY like those spring-loaded body mounts...who made them and where did you get them?

Edit #2: How much wider are the Monster GT A-Arms than the Maxx A-Arms? Can you measure your Monster GT arms from end to end (just the arms) so I can compare that measurement to my Maxx arms? I would really appreciate it.

I don't have my MGT in front of me right now as I am over at a friend's house, so I can't help you with question two, but for question 1, those are stock MGT body mounts, he just added a spring between the mount and the tower, and put the pin that would normally go through the tower and the mount post through the mount post only, right below the tower. Basically the only extra part there would be the springs. It can be done with stock Maxx body mounts as well.

Not to jump the gun or anything here, but if you were considering using MGT arms on your Maxx, the uppers would have to be modded to work and even then I'm not sure if they would fit, and the lowers would also have to be modded. Both would require removing material around where the hinge pin goes through the arm on the uppers, and for the lowers you would have to remove the middle stub that sticks out from the arm for the hinge pin to go through, and I'm not sure if the outer stubs for the hinge pin are the right width to fit into a Maxx bulkhead. For the modifications needed, it probably wouldn't be worth it, if that is in fact what you were considering. I'm curious to know, is that what you wanted to do or were you just wondering if the lengths were different?