The same here - really looking forward to this little experiment. I communicated with a guy named Scott Smart and he has been very helpful with replies to my questions.

Right now I am waiting for hoses for the shocks, the kit for the cooling, the new motor and ESC - almost like christmas:party:

Awesome idea. Curious to see how that works out.

me too


this has become a great thread

Hi Again,Hi Again,

Been waiting for parts the last few weeks, but has also been in the final stages of finalizing a E-bike for competition, here's a few clips (in the last one you can see more of the external design, the others are drive-by clips)

[YOUTUBE]ElGSgE36pYg[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]GLHamFVxtBQ[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]7t0tmZd0nPg[/YOUTUBE]

The motor came this friday, the day after the bike was shipped - about to start buildning again:lol: Waiting for the ESC now..

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/img_0219.jpg

Holy CBR999 Batman!!! But why green on a Honda?

excited to see the pumps and radiator. when i converted a 1/5 rampage i had looked at doing water cooled but ended up not needing it. i am sure it will look pretty sweet.

Well, I had free hands on the electronics, motor and ESC - not the paint and shassie...

Got any pictures or a thread/ link for the bike project ( cant view the videos at work :no: )?

You can find some more information here http://www.sertracing.se/

This is the official homepage, but there is not so many pictures and details yet. I am not allowed to disclose certain information yet, but in a few weeks I can post images etc.

On the motors, the neus are lighter, more torque per amp, higher efficiency and more power out

If that motor needs radiators it is such a poor choice you shouldnt use it.

There's a few opinions on that, for sure.. Please feel free to buy a bunch of each and test

Lehners are efficient monster lol ^^ ~93% the neus are ~90%. Contrary to cheap motor, the presence of a heat sink does not mean that the efficiency is bad... Why neu do smooth can ?? To put water cooled heat sink, exactly like the lehner...

Water cooling vs air or Neu v Lehner?

Re the motors have you seen dyno charts - not just calculator graphs?
Lehner efficiency is OK, as are Hackers, which are same gen technology but

Neu
* make motors for planes - most use smooth cans - I know how Neus were introduced to marine racing I did it... when I raised their performnce on RRR many years ago.
* uses finer laminations and 4 pole is easier than 2 pole on ESC's and the designs 4 years old the 2280s date from the mid 90's
* have better peak efficiency (claims means nothing - dyno charts tell the real story) and also much better efficiency at low amps and very high amps ie a wider band of high efficincy - this is very important for cars which spend most time at very low amps - less than 50 amps but spike into the 150A's under acceleration and high loads
* produce more torque per amp - in practice this usually means they do more with less or they give harder acceleration or better runtime
* are lighter for the same power and torque - means better p:w ratios and handling

In a car the avergae amp draw is so low a motor with enough torque shouldnt require additional cooling. IMO this mean water cooling is a complicated and redundant.

However given that Lehner;s specs will be running out of it efficiency band most of the time due to the high iron losses at low power and will run hot with air cooling.

With electric bigger isnt better. The smallest possible motor with sufficient torque and the correct efficiency point is the way to go. Electric motors are like the rods and crank - they dont make power they just covert it and waste it to varying degrees. Only batteries make power.

Water cooling is used on race boats but the power throughput is 150-190 amps average... or about 5 times that of a car.

correct me if i am wrong, but i believe mckrill is doing the water cooling not out of necessity but for more the experience of doing something different, cool, and of scale realism.

as for the lehners running hot at low power, that is true. i bought a lehner 2250 to run in a 1/8 truggy. i knew it was way over powered so i expected that truggy to fly. well, i was disappointed. the temps were high which i could not figure out. then someone here on the forum bought the motor from me and explained i had it in too small of a car. he put it in a baja conversion and it ran cool as ever.

but here is something interesting. i love lehners, neus, and hackers. all are great motors if you ask me. i just built a slash 4x4 and put in a 1512 1y 2700kv on 3s. temps were pretty good. mostly in the 130 range but got up to 150 at one point. which is hotter than i like. so i put in a 1973kv b50xl hacker just to test. now temps are in the 105 to 110 range and the truck seems faster, or at least as fast. the same exact thing happened when i switched from 2200kv neu to 1973kv c50xl in my losi 8ight last year. lower temps, lower kv, but faster car. that has just been my experience.

Well, as I said, there are a few opinions about the performance, but what remains is what I can fit into the car and what I can get my hands on with easy. All this has been discussed in the thread before - just like the reason for why I'd like to experiment with radiators and pumps.

If I wanted it to run smooth, cool and last forever I could have used any of my other 8 cars..

Please feel free to start one of those everlasting threads on witch motors are the best.

Ryu James - I think you observation is similar to mine with other bl-setups.

Just curious, do you have any dyna charts to back up the story? I would be interested in seeing those.

I have same the experience with my cars as well. Lehner did advertise that their Basic series motors didn't like partial loading.

Recent temperature observation in CRT.5

With the 4 pole Plettenberg, the temps are higher than with the XL3100 Basic Lehner. Lehner is faster than the Plettenberg in the CRT.5.

I take the same Plettenberg and stick it in my GTP and it's a beast. I swap out the Plettenberg with a C50L Hacker and speed is insane.

so now that....ahem.... almost ran away with the thread lets get back to what this thread is about: mckrill building a sick, unique truck and the rest of us supporting it and having a blast watching your progress. keep us posted mckrill and latest updates.

Hey good luck with it - it will be a show piece of you building skills.
However, I dont use opinion; logged data, dyno tests and spread sheets and occassionally a motor formulae calculator. been doing this too long to be bothered guessing any more.

So - finally I received the ESC.

Rather large package:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/14s_016.jpg

Some connectors, temp-sensors etc:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/14s_017.jpg

Larger than what I thought, I will post some images comparing it against the JetiSpin 200 later.

BTW these images was snapped with my cell-phone, so sorry for the Q.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/14s_018.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/14s_020.jpg

Back side

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/14s_019.jpg

:surprised: damn... big things do need large packages :lol:... Can't wait to that in action.

I like the candy bears ;)

I still haven't received the stuff for the cooling system, but it is actually no hinder for driving this weekend. I just hope I find the time to set the truck up, belt and glue the tires etc.

may I ask why you didn't choose the new 40.300 from Schulze?

Very nice project

Hope to see it running soon:party::party:

I hope to be able to start it up again this weekend...

Why I didn't use the 40.300 - Size..

Withthe water cooling you plan the 40/160's are fine for spikes of just over 300 amps and in excess of 240 continuous on very low resistance reactive motors used in speed records.

Are you going to log it?

Hello, I am considering to get the eagle tree data logger, anyone know were to get a good price? I think the ESC should hold up, but testing will tell...

The new motor is longer due to the fan, so I had to modify and move the motor brackets as well as the brackets for the ESC. There are no mounting holes in the ESC so I had to do like everyone else...

I also mounted the hoses on the shocks.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/ny_motor.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/ny_motor_fram.jpg

Since I have not had the time to fix belting on the Panther Tires I used another pair of Monster truck wheels.

Firstly driving away from me to get some distance and then pulling the trigger....

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/spr_ngd.jpg

It became a very short test run..

So this night I started to do the belting of the Tires. (A lot of duck tape)

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/belting.jpg

I used Acetone to get the tires of the wheels and the rubber became substantially softer - I think they will explode as well, but it is worth a try..

i have problems with blowing wheels on 6s with a neu 1520 motor, so you must have serious probs...

Tell me how the ductape holds up.
Also how many wraps did you do?
I noticed when i boiled my badlands off the rim, they became extremely soft. So one tyre would balloon much more than the rest!!!

I dont even want to attempt 9s untill i know there is a tyre that can handle it. Maybe baja rims and tyres are thicker and stronger?

I started using 2 layers of duck-tape, but as they are also overlapping in the center it might add some strength as well. Unfortunately the foam isn't good to use anymore, so I am waiting for new foam before I can glue them to the rims again.. :cry:

Luckily I ordered new wheels, foam and extra rims from SC last week

i am probably going to try gorilla tape next time. I did 2 layers as you did (which broke away from the tire and caused a bad imbalance) then i did 3 and it still didnt work. I dont think it was stick enough or strong enough to handle the power. Gorrilla take looks more promising.

OK, I see. Did you use "real" duck tape or some kind of copy? Do you have any link to the Gorilla tape?

If this doesn't hold up - what to do? Any suggestions?

i used real duck tape. Someothers are having no problems using it but i seriously am resulting in the mentioned problems.
Gorilla tape is meant to be extremely sticky stuff..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GORILLA-BLACK-...item439fd1ad3e

Something i will be trying next time definitely. These tyres have no option but to be strapped, i guess gorilla tape should work very well. I havent head anyone say they have had probs with it yet...

I remember using some tape with glass fiber threads in it a few years ago - could be a idea to look into as well?

I think the tape your refering to is called strapping tape,I see it in my LHS for reinforcing aircraft wings.it's some tough stuff it doesn't stretch at all and it will stick for a fairly long time as long as it's dry.--Josh

It's also much lighter than duct tape... I've used it with my Boweties... works well... Very sticky stuff... not that easy to remove if the surface is cleaned correctly.