WOW they sure do, i have some Baja wheels just not sure if i want to use them because of the wieght and whats invovled in fitting them, but it looks like from what you have done it's not that hard.

WOW THAT IS A LOT OF ADDED WEIGHT!

i bet that weight is because of the beadlock wheels and not the tyres them selves! HMMMM there must be other light normal style glue wheels we can use that accept the baja tyre???

you havent weighed the wheels and tyres separetly by any chance have you??

THat is a lot more weight than i really want to add honestly... My alloy spi and badland tyres weigh 310grams per corner... i wouldnt mind going to 450grams per corner with the added power... but 560g!!!!!! nearly double!!! it does look like your truck has no prob pushing the heavy tyres around, but i will really have to think about it... may ask around and see if there are any other normal wheels...

Have you just used the beadlocks to lock the tyre to the wheel??? i was thinking that brushless power would be too much for beadlocks and you would need to glue as well as use the beadlocks to hold the tyre on??? have you had any probs?

No glue, just the beadlocks - and no problems. We'll see how well they hold up to people running the MMXL/2028 combo, but I've read of no complaints. I'm not sure that the fact that they are beadlocks really adds that much weight to them - they are just very beefy all around. When I had them apart to tape them last summer I should have weighed them, but didn't.

@Jahay
You might want to try those Baja wheels then. Glued with no beadlock. Front wheel wheighs 370gr and rear one 475gr. I'm using them also with the afore mentioned 23mm wheel extenders on my Baja/Truggy build.

But i had to shave some plastic off the wheels as the extenders thread is not long enough to securly mount those wheels. Not an optimal solution either if you want proper concentricity.

Without modifications to the wheels it looked that way:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1298079487

When using those extenders you will have to wrap the hex with some thin Alu foil (brian015 already mentioned that. I cut some strips from a can of coke) otherwise it will look that way:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1298079614

@brian015
Always red your thread. Good stuff. Good modifications. Did your beadlock wheels fit properly to the extenders?

othello - thanks for the links to those wheels - I wouldn't mind some lighter ones in the future, too.

The nuts on my wheel extenders do not thread on all the way (as in your pic) - but I crank them down pretty good (with a 23mm socket and a long bar!) and I've never had one come loose on me.

Since I've been posting about the Pro-line extended 23mm hexes, I'll show how they look on my buggy. One of the four on the buggy must have bent slightly (or the axle itself bent) because I was unable to get it off the axle. I wasn't able to see any bend in it, but something must have happened to it at some point.

I've been rebuilding the back end, so just replaced the extended hexes with new ones. Since they extend beyond the axle, I can use a large 5mm bolt to hold the axle pin in place instead of fooling around with grub screws. It will look like this after the hex is put on:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0838Small.jpg

I use the hex, a 3mm pin, 2 shims, and the 5mm bolt. (These hexes also have holes for 2.5mm pins)

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0840Small.jpg

I put the extended hex on the axle, the pin through, and then can put the bolt in and tighten it down good:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0841Small.jpg

The ones up front already have aluminum tape around them:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0843Small.jpg

and they fit in the 24mm hex perfectly:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0844Small.jpg

They do not stick out much, but it's enough:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0847Small.jpg

So I tighten down the nut with this:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0848Small.jpg

and then it looks like this:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0849Small.jpg

I've never had one of these nuts come off.

How long are those extenders? I just scored 4 new pairs of PL Wabash wheels, dirt cheap, off ebay but they are revo offset and don't fit on my Muggy build. I'm hoping the extenders will get me to the correct offset. Thanks.

-JB

Long - 30mm longer than regular hexes.

Nice write up... are those the stock LST Axles? no mods required? Just use the usual 3mm pin? Does the bolt come with the kit? does it securely hold the extended hex on? or just provide support ?

Thankns

Stock XXL/LST2/Muggy axles without mods - yes. The 3mm pin goes through the axle and the hex - the bolt (normally a set screw) threads down inside the axle and holds the pin in place. I use the bolt because I can tighten down on it better than on a set screw. I bought the bolt at Lowe's. :yes:

thankls brian!

Gens Ace!
 

I have this big buggy back together and got my first chance today to try it out. I'm now running 2 of these Gens Ace 5s 25c 4000mAh packs and this was their first run:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-4000-5s1p.html

So it weighs 18.9lbs. with these packs after the rebuild and I was running 10s geared for 50mph. Here is the log of the run:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...30511image.jpg

I pulled 3300mAh from the packs before tossing my pinion and losing the grub screw. But I'd say the buggy is running great and these packs are what I was hoping for. More power than when I ran 10s with my Turnigy 40c 5000mAh packs. Today I hit 3990 Watts (= 5.35hp)! The maximum ripple voltage was 2.0V, which, at around 5% of total pack voltage is a "good place to be" according to the man himself in this post:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...2&postcount=11

I noticed that the buggy was handling better than when I last drove it. So I figured either it wasn't getting quite as much power as before or my shock absorber mods were helping. After looking at the logs and seeing the power I was getting, I'd say the shock mods are a big help to this. So, a good day, with good results.



Edit: Here's a picture of it before I took it out and got it dirty again:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0947Small.jpg

Pro-line extenders (shortened)
 

I have a bunch of these Pro-line extended 23mm hexes and they give an additional 30mm or so of width to each side:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0950Small.jpg

I decided to shorten some of them by half to give me more options with my current trucks and planned build. The inside diameter of the outer half of the extender is 1/2":

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0952Small.jpg

So I bought some 1/2" Aluminum rod and drilled 8mm holes in pieces of it:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0953Small.jpg

Next I cut the extender to half its normal length:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0955Small.jpg

And inserted a piece of the 8mm id tube, then drilled a 1/8" through hole for the pin:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0956Small.jpg

The final product extends the width approximately 16mm now:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0957Small.jpg

This is my prototype - I have more to make, but am pleased with how it turned out. :yes:

Nice work. What ProLine part # are these as I haven't seen them before? I assume that its a standard 8mm axle, but what is the pin diameter, 3mm? Also how long is the threaded shank?

Finally I assume you used a drill press? What type of jig did you use to get alignment, etc. right?

These are the adapters:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pro-Line-23mm-He...item230e21fdc9

Part #6034-03.

The pins are 3mm. I actually use these hinge pins and cut them to length:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=ASCC9620&P=K

When I do some more, I'll take pics of how I did the drilling.

Thanks for the info. Be interesting to see how you jig it up.

Had thought about just using some 24mm Baja hubs, using a 8mm-12mm spacer, sorta like what you have here but it requires drilling a 4mm hole in the axle and at least with the RC8T, and the LST2 axles I believe too, axles there just isn't enough length to do it I think without losing strength. Drilling out the 3mm to 4mm (pin size for the 24mm hubs) I'm not sure would work either; it'd definetly mean grinding down the rear of the hex hub to get it where it'd be close to flush with the bearing and that wouldn't leave hardly any material behind the pin.

Might you be willing to do a set for others once you've finished yours and are satisfied? Have the 23mm from Integy from my RC8T, but ProLines are probably better, but as you noticed they (and the ProLines) are just a bit too wide but don't really have expertise to cut em down and get them dead on.

Thzero, with your 24mm Baja hex idea. How about using the rc8t size pin, and drill a new hole for it 90 degrees from the original holes? Or would the hole still be too close to the edge of the adapter even with he smaller pin? Brians look pretty darn close to the edge and his have held up...

Love this build btw Brian.

Can't use the 3mm pin, its too small for the Baja hexes. I had thought of doing the 4mm hole as you said 90 degrees from the origin holes, about 1 or 2mm away from the original hole. Same thing would work for the LST2 axles (or any other 8mm truggy/buggy style axle).

Issue really is I don't think I have the skill to drill a new hole in the axle dead-on. :)

I think Overdriven is saying to drill a new 3mm hole in the Baja hex - not your axle.

The way that I drilled the hole in my adapter was pretty straightforward - I used the flats of the hex and clamped it to my drill-press table - no need for a jig and it was easy to get the pin hole straight through the adapter at a right angle to where the axle would go through.

My wife has the camera - so no pics for now.

Edit: I'm not sure that you need that much material behind the pin - the pin is there to hold the hex in place, but the axle itself provides the mechanical support for the hex - so an impact is absorbed mainly by the axle, not the pin (in my thinking).

AH yes, good point about drilling a new hole in the hub. Had been approaching from the other direction.

Well that may be true, but what holds the hub onto the axle laterally?

The pin - but in my experience, impacts that would pull the wheel off sideways are rare (depending on how you drive, I guess!).

That's exactly what I meant.

You're more likely to encounter significant forces that are trying to push the adapter onto the axle rather than pull it off. If you look at the diameter of the adapter itself, theres quite a bit of thickness there that the pin would have to rip through to get it off. I'm not saying its impossible to do, but it would take some doing.

:yes:

Great job brian on the modded hexs!!! I was thinking about doing something similar to this just for the front tyres to give me a sort of staggered wheel look...

I finally decided to bite the bullet and bought baja bowties for my savage.. but i bought 4 rear ones... just need to get the crazy 30mm hexs now and some alloy tape...

your build has been real help for me! Mucho Appreciated!

I made two of the shortened extenders for the front of this buggy. The way I drilled out the 8mm hole in the insert is by lining the 1/2" aluminum rod up vertically and then drilling through one of these extended hexes to keep everything aligned. Otherwise, I would never have been able to center the hole properly:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0962Small.jpg

I drilled the pin hole simply by clamping the hex to the drill press table with by its flats - keeping the pin hole exactly at a right angle to where the axle will go through:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0959Small.jpg

I JB-welded the insert into the extender and then filed it down to exactly the right length so I could get one shim between the extender and the bearing:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0971Small.jpg

With these on the front of my buggy, the width is now around 18" (about an inch less than before). The rear width is 19.5"

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0974Small.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._0972Small.jpg

I like the way it looks, but I'll have to see how it handles.

i had a staggered offset similar to this on my savage... I loved it because the savage wouldnt roll, but would turn in harder.

This is something i will attempt most likely. You did a very clean job. I just hope my dril and press are up to drilling the 8mm alloy.

THanks for the pics brian!!!

That's what I'm hoping for!

Wow that's a great idea something i might have to adopt Brian as i'm finding that roll overs are very easy, be interesting to see how you like the way it handles too.

I've been using the full 30mm extenders on all 4 wheels all along - so it's been hard to roll this over - it's very stable. Now the front is a little narrower, and I'm hoping for more responsive steering without increasing it's roll-over ability too much!

I saw this build last week but didn't get around to posting about it:

http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=103080

It's a nice 4wd shorty Baja with chain drive that seems to be very well-made. I found it interesting that some agree that a 4wd Baja should be a little shorter - pretty much the same length as mine. Now he just needs to get a CC kit and convert it!

nice find brian... very nice build there! Going to have a closer look at his build.

I got this out for a quick run today - only 2800mAh used. Again the Gens Ace batteries performed well:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...31911image.jpg

Here's a short video - please excuse the shaky camera - this is my six year old's first attempt at being my cameraman. He wants me to include this smiley-face: :party:

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/0dxSxkbTCp8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The narrower front seemed to be fine.

All temps were low (motor 120F), except my only concern today was that my CD was at 200F after the run. That seems a bit high for the conditions today - I have 30k diff fluid in there. I'll check my mesh and alignment to see if they could have been generating extra heat. Otherwise, I might go to heavier fluid to see if it helps.

As you have now got your son as the camera man, i expect more videos of this monster with some more high speed passes.

Seemed to corner nicely with the narrower offset on the front.

Im running 300k oil in my CD and temps do not get as hot as that... i measured mine at 140F which is a little better.

But it was hot when i had 50k in there!

Under 120 Amps sounds good... well within the 160amp capabilites of the Ice HV!

I got my CD reinstalled with 100k diff fluid and it looked like it was slightly misaligned with the motor mount - probably why I lost my pinion a couple weeks back. So this weekend when it dries out I'll get this out again to see how it performs.


I saw another cool build on the Baja forum - a 1/8 scale baja build. This guy is off to a good start:

http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=104095

nice project :yes:........ ¿weight rtr, mah/v bat, runtime, temperatues?

Thanks.
18.9lbs rtr.
2x5s 4000mAh Gens Ace batts in series - 15-20 minutes of runtime depending on how I'm driving.
Temps last time out: ambient 55F, batts 88F, esc 110F, motor 120F if I remember correctly.

awesome ..... 20min ...... great runtime using this beast 1527 :yes:

thanks and we waiting more notices/photos/vids :lol:

Hi Brian, i know this is a silly question...
But which alloy tape are you using around your hexs exactly so they fit the 24mm baja hex correctly?

Is it similar to this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-Roll-Alumini...#ht_3605wt_809

and obviously it isnt 1mm thick so, would you just do multiple wraps till it fits snug in the hex?

Thanks... and sorry for the silly question... i just dont want to strip my baja hexs

That's basically the stuff that I was using when I was running 23mm hexes. And yes, couple of wraps and make sure that the fit is snug.

Exactly - I found my aluminum tape in the ventilation/ductwork aisle at the Home Depot.

And someone else cut a strip of aluminum from their coke can and put it in the hex to fill the space - you could even super glue it to the hex so it stays put when you mount the wheel.

Edit: link to coke can reference