I don't know the Ofna specific part number, but glassdoctor said these should work.

The plastic one I made was done simply by tracing out the size needed and using lexan scissors to cut the rough shape. Then, I used a dremel sanding wheel for the fine shaping. Note: Even though it hasn't leaked yet, I don't know if it will under actual use. To avoid the chance, I simply bought the real gaskets.

I thought about getting a 777 diff as well. Seems a lot less trouble overall.

part numbers for the 777 diff?? please??? lol

and those will work no mods? then i can use the right stuff, correct???

Sorry, I don't know the part numbers. I'd probably just pick up the whole diff from ebay or something like that - it'll be easier and cheaper than building it from parts.

Anyway, I'm bummed. :dft004: Turns out the Quark simply won't fit. I can get it where I want, but the edge of the ESC is too close (~1/8") to the lipo batteries for my liking. If I move it so it has enough space, it sits too close to the body and may contact it if/when I crash and it lands on its lid. :007: The 80B would fit much better, but the current isn't high enough IMO. So, I had to get a MM as much as I didn't really want to. Oh well, at least I'll have an ESC for my next project.

that STNKS!!! lol didnt someone say ohh y did u get the quark when u could of had the mm for 140$$ less????? lol

That was MetalMan! :p Sorry to hear that Brian..

lol ohh well its only money right?? :D

Yeah, I know, but I wanted to use the Quark. I'm only using the MM because I have no other choice. I have a mind to get it to work despite the fitment issues just to prove a point now. :p

Well thats what these conversions are about, you have to use your head to find a way to make things work, and if they dont, you comprimise. Are you sure there isnt any possible way of mounting it or not?

Im running the 80B in my buggy with no problems. The 80B is good for 200 amps for 10 seconds. Do you really see excerding that? Even in my Monster Trucks I dont see spikes that high. Certanly not for 10 seconds. I have a custom heat sink I made up for it to help keep it cool. Just my $0.02.

I don't see a problem having the controller next to the battery.

Are you concerned about heat from the battery? The battery likely will never get over 120* even on a 90* day... that's the hottest I have ever had a lipo get. My lipos generally don't get much above ambient temps (in summer)... maybe 10-20 deg.

I need to go back and check the layout you are using... I forget exactly what it is.

Just build a mount for esc, use standoffs and you can raise it over anything.

OK, without pics, this is hard to explain, but I can get it mounted. I just don't like the edges of the ESC so close to the battery (it's not the heat aspect). Call it being anal. :) If I raise it with standoffs or whatever, it interferes with mounting the shell. Plus, I want to leave a little room between the shell and the parts so that if I land on the lid, it won't bend/break anything. I know the real answer to that is to drive better :). Part of the problem here to is that I want this thing to look like it was designed for BL, not converted. So, no shortcuts or hackjobs. Another part of the problem is that I'm using Lipos in this and am a little gun-shy. You should see me handle them; it's like I'm carrying a bomb. I actually thought about making a metal enclosure for them! Yes, I'm paranoid. :)

A little earlier, I re-made the battery tray standoffs so they are now 1/8" further back. This should give me more room no matter which ESC I end up using for this. At any rate, the MM is on the way, so I'll have options. I have another conversion planned after this is done anyway...

Regardless of these "roadblocks", I still love these conversions. A little frustrating at times, but the end result is always worth it. Although, you wouldn't think I like doing this if you heard me downstairs swearing when something goes wrong. :)

I know what you mean about the lipo's being paranoid. I will be too, once I buy them, lol. But it is all part of it. :027:

Yeah... I keep my lipos buried in my underground bunker in the backyard... ok... not really. But I do have them in the garage. :)

I treated mine like nitroglycerine too... mine have all been bare cells... no prebuilt packs. Desk looks like I'm doing surgery when it's time to solder them up, lol...

Well, not so much anymore but still...

yeh lol same here, but idk... good to hear u found a new way to mount it..

and also what is wrong with the 80 b? its cheaper (which i like lol) would it get to hot or what?

Don't be too tempted to make a metal enclosure for Lipos, they come in soft polly pouches for safety reasons first not weight.

My dad was an electrical safety tester, responsible for giving out BS kite marks for the UK, one of the things came with AA size lithium cells, and in his effort to find dangers he put the 2 cells in a standard home nicad charger, and left them on an ovenight charge, he put the charger in a thin steel locker the type we have in schools and placed a screwdriver through the holes where the padlock would go.

On return in the morning he found the screw driver, stuck over 2 inches into a brick wall from where the door blew off and schrapnel from the bits of cell had blasted through the locker (creating more schrapnel) and bits of the metal cell cases and locker where all over the bunker, floor, ceiling, walls, the lot.

Its like gunpowder, you can put an ounce of powder on a plate and burn it in your hand but if you put it in a pipe and seal the ends, you have a bomb.

Theres videos of lipo fires and while they go up well and start fires, if your outside and one goes up 20ft away your prety safe, but stick one in a metal case and I wouldnt want to get within 100yds.

I think from memory those cells where 3.7v and 1200mah I cant imagine the destructive power of a 4s 8000 pack in a metal enclosure. Just dont Do it.

lol terrorists!! the po po shows up, we had a bunch of calls that ur lighting off bombs!! no no just my batteris for my toys:018:

Well, it wasn't going to be sealed, just mostly enclosed to help prevent punctures during a crash. I wonder what material the liposack is made of? It would be interesting to see if they could make battery wraps. That way, your cells are always in a sack. Of course they'll still vent if a problem occurs, but it would help mitigate the effects.

As to why I didn't go with the 80B; I wanted at least 100A minimum. Those current ratings listed are at 25 degrees C. But, we all know that running BL on a hot summer day can greatly exceed that and those FETs derate the current ratings. So, even though I won't be running at 100A, it'll be right where I want after derating.

I like confort level in my esc's too. On 5s, my 12020 runs a lot cooler than the 9920. My quark also runs cooler on 4s than 5s as well.

yeh i want the same feeling, but im asking lol
but can we get some updated pics?

This might be done by the end of the weekend, so you'll have pics then. Right now, I'm using Legos to simulate the ESC mount for fitment purposes so it looks a little funny. :)

And yes, the Legos are mine. I find that I can easily make mockups of many things before building it for real.

Sounds good Brian. Whenever you are ready. I bet the legos would fly with some lipo and esc with bl though!

Yeah, and fly apart with the first crash! :) And just to clarify; I just use Legos to simulate certain parts, mainly for fitment - not the whole buggy.

I figured that mcuh, but I know how much you like to take things apart and put them back together! LOL:005:

Now we know why it took so long to get the buggy done.. you spend all your time playing with legos, lol.

I use cardboard to mock up stuff sometimes. Anyone want a pretend 4s 6000mah pack? It kinda looks like the real thing... hee hee

LOL i think im going to pass on the carboard lipos.. altho it would be nice and light LOL

amd yay lol i want to see pics with everything in it

Awww man! You caught me! :dft001: We all have to have our toys! ;)

I've used cardboard too, but Legos are easier and faster to make stuff. Plus, you can make small adjustments without having to build from scratch. I actually have my Lego bins near my workshop area. :)

Lol, E-MAXX Rock's. Patience! I did make some headway tonight though. Made the receiver mount, replaced the gasket in the diff, made and thermal epoxied the heatsink for the Quark, figured out how I'm gonna have the ESC mount set up, and figured out the wire routing. Not bad for one night.

That is pretty good progress Brian. So you thermal epoxied the heat right to the quark? Or did you put it in the case of the quark?
Can't wait to see the completed project!

I only epoxied heatsinks to the external case. I'll wait until the warranty runs out before I do any improvements to the ESC internals.

I can't wait to see the completed project as well! :)

Brian, if I may ask. I thermal epoxied my fan mount wings to the bottom of my rear custom heat sink. Now, when do this, the epoxy did not seem to be AS strong where you would not be able to remove the object after it dried. Stronger than the paste yes, and yes it dried hard, but my question is..."how hard would it be to remove the esc from the epoxy?"
The reason I ask is because I would love to epoxy my Quark to my rear heatsink. But if it's harder than hell to remove in case of damage, then I may not want to. But it seems that it may not be. If I could epoxy with some effort to remove it, then I would definately do this instead of zipties...

Well, the fan wings may not have as much surface area to grab on to. Also, thermal epoxy is meant for closely mated surfaces. Remember; any thermal paste/epoxy is meant only to fill in the microscopic imperfections in the mating surfaces. The Epoxy just has the added feature of being a bonding agent.

From all reports, thermal epoxy is permanent if the surfaces were clean and there was enough surface area. Sometimes, you can seperate two epoxied items by placing them in the freezer for 1-2 hours and then gently prying them apart. It's not guaranteed though. And I would NOT try this on any heatsink that is mounted directly to the FETs - the FET pins will most likely break before the epoxy does. But you could try this on a sink attached to the external case with minimal fuss as long as you don't apply too much prying force.

If you post a pic of your present mount, maybe I could offer an alternative mounting suggestion.

here is a shot of the bottom
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...r/PC281267.jpg
here is a shot of the top
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...r/PC251211.jpg
here is a shot of the side, but it's a bad shot! lol
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...r/PC281258.jpg
this might be too far away to see...but it might be clearer
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...r/P1021284.jpg

OK, I see. First, I would use screws to hold down the fan mounts. Just countersink the screws from the top.

As to holding the ESC down, how about a clamp? A piece of 1/16" thick 6061 Al, about 3/4" wide that goes across the top of the ESC and then screwed down on each side? Or maybe make one side hook under the plate and then screw down only one side? Then you could use thermal paste instead of adhesive. It looks like the mounting plate is very close to being the exact dimensions of the ESC (on 3 sides anyway).

Nice truck BTW. :)

At last! It's done!

Wire routing was a challenge with the Quark, but I think it'll work just fine.

Pics:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumspics/hyper8_final_1.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/forumspics/hyper8_final_2.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/forumspics/hyper8_final_3.jpg

And finally, a pic of the balancer Y adaptor. I made the leads quite long so the batts can sit in my Liposack without having the balancer crammed up against the sack.

http://scriptasylum.com/forumspics/balancer_Y.jpg

The Quark is thermal-epoxied to a 1/16" thick sheet of 6061 Aluminum with a couple of these heatsinks epoxied to the sheet. I wasn't sure if 1/16" thick Al would transfer heat fast enough, but temps between the sinks and the ESC case are very close. And the sheet allowed me to secure it to the ESC mount without using zipties. Yay!

That thing looks aboslutely awesome. The wiring may have been a challenge, but it looks very clean and like you bought the whole buggy like this.

Have goten a chance to try it yet? Any estimates on run time and/or speed?

Thanks!

I just tried it around the house a little. Still too cold out to really put it through it's paces. I may take it to work later today (depending on temps) and do some drifting on the packed snow/ice in the parking lot.

Very clean job Brian. It looks nice and balanced. Let us know how she runs.

Nice! I like how you ran the wires. Looks very clean. Very Nice! I glad you were able to squeeze the Quark in there too, it is really a great controller with the Neu motor. It's my favorite combo.

I modded my new Quark in my CRT. It's just great. I wanted to wait until the warrantee was up, but it was thermaling and since I modded it, now it goes forever and no thermals. I can't say enough good things about it.

Very nice. Hope we get to see a vid of it. Good job!

Glad to see its finished Brian! NICE work!