That is a 16V 1000uf cap for 2s applications.

The standard cap on the R1 is a 16V 330uf for 2s applications.

We sell...

TT3543 Power Cap 25V 1800uF 5Slipo (2)
TT3544 Power cap 25v 2200uF 5Slipo (2)
TT3545 Power Cap 25V 2700uF 5Slipo (2)

TT3552 Power Cap 35V 1500uF 6Slipo (2)

Short leads and or 2 in parrallel is always good stuff. Mounted securely, these caps leads were not really designed for the abuse of being bounced around.

has anyone tried running a modified r1 on 6s with any luck? would like to try one in my buggy. i have owned many tekins over the years with good luck and in fact still have a functional G12c i purchased when it hit the shelves looooong ago (whenever that was). Other than the caps and the external bec is there a chance this might work?

6s would be pushing it! For sure

It might work, but wrong gearing, or shock will probably fry the thing. If you ran mech brakes, and had it geared conservatively it probably would work!

Modified one would work with 6S with no problem as long as your battery voltage below 27V, otherwise it would clamp it to 27V level.
Stock ones, if you can keep temp down then probably, but I won't recommend that...
And would agree with BlackedOutREVO about setup, keep it conservative and it would work, try to push it - it would fail.

i do use my mechanical brakes and run a 1512 3d at 15/46 in my rc8. was just pondering seeing it actually move on its own again........

GriffinRU in your first post in this topic there were some strips of copper? what were these for? if you dont want to say it cool i was just curious, seemed like alot of extra metal.

Heat spreading... They displace heat better then normal.

Try it! Would be a awesome esc, and perfect car to try it in, nice light-ish buggy

any idea these currents tekin gives for r1pro - how long it can handle it? I want to know how much current it can handle for 2500 or 5000mAh as germans give numbers.

They said it was 200A, but those are just from going by the MOSFETs datasheet.

that won't tell you truth... I don't lnow why in th US there is a funny way of giving info: Current-more than you can handle or no limit ;) Or numbers which are valid for 1s. f.e. Real life is driving for about 4000-5000mAh lixx battery, so there should be mentioned number, how much current can ESC handle.

Is there any reason I can't use an R1 for the same application or is it necessary to use the R1Pro?

-Jeff

For what aplication?

4s buggy with 1512 2D in texas.

The R1 has a Motor Limit of 5 Turn Brushless (36mm can)

R1 has half the fets of a R1Pro. (2 power boards vs 1 I believe) For 1/8 the pro is necesary IMO. I would compare the R1 to the Sidewinder and the R1Pro to the MM as far as power handling. However I like the feeling of the Tekin throtle and brake better than the MM. The MM however is easier to mount a fan on the heatsink to coo it in a heavy load situation. The Tekin controllers dont have heat sinks and arent easy to mount fans on. I sucessfully ran my buggy on the stock R1Pro for quite a while before getting the modified one from Artur. But I only ran it on 5s using a Hacker 11xl, Neu 1512/2.5d and a Neu 1512/3D. I have no 4s data to share with you. I would think the setup you mentioned would be fine for the R1Pro.