I ran into the same thing. I even tried McMaster Carr without success. One of my vendors at work makes us custom screws but they have a design fee and a 20k piece minimum order, so that option is out.

-JB

Made some decent progress this week. Got the prototype upper and lower plates cut. Had to make the upper plate twice as I found that some of my hole locations were off a bit, and had to reduce the taper on the front by 1/2 a degree. Still have one set of holes that are off by about 1mm.
First I had to finish up the front end and get some shocks put together for the rear (still waiting on a pair of Ti shafts for the front). I had originally purchased Dynamite Red bodied shocks, then changed my mind and bought a set of Losi threaded hard anodized ones. Only issue at first was that I would have to get the shock ring re-anodized red to match the truck. I was going to use the red caps off the Dynamites, and hopefully end up with a decent looking shock. Well, the cap wouldn't thread on to the Losi's. I then tried the stock blue caps, and they threaded onto both shock bodies fine, and the red caps threaded onto the stock blue bodies.....don't have a clue what could be happening here, but it's fairly obvious I'm not going to be able to use the hard anodized ones.

Also added some Dynamite red chassis braces.

Next up was assembling the RCM Slipperential, and installing the RCM Muggy motor mount. Had to do a little filing of the slipper pads on this one, other than that it went together a little better than the first one. For those that are going to get a slipperential - just prior to mounting the small end cap, screw the tightening ring down. It will help to make sure you dont get the cap on slightly crooked. I thought I had it all together and went to adjust the ring to the initial setting, and it wouldn't budge. I think I may have stripped out the threads on the ring as I was attempting to tighten it. Anyway, I pulled the cap off, screwed the ring down, and replaced the cap and it went together correctly this time.

The new Muggy motor mount is anodized black - unfortunatley, I dont think they oversized the bearing hole to account for the anodizing. I had to use my dremel and a sanding drum to remove the anodizing to get it to fit the bearing. Its got a tad bit more "slop" than I really want, but I dont think it will be bad.

couple more pics
I was going to go the route of a single pack, but looking at the pics, you can see that it doesn't look like a good fit to me. Seems to me that side mounted packs (flux style) would definitley fit the lines of the layout better.

The lower tray is a half inch lower than stock. I may drop it a little more to get the top of the motor mounts level with the top plate - but its right on the edge of being too low I think.

Also I used a stock LST axle CVF for one of the centers...its about 1/8th or so too short but I can move the mounts a bit to make it work. So that solves one end. Waiting for a XXL center shaft to see how that fits.

I also think I'll be moving the servo mount back a bit - too close to get screws into the front on it.

OH...and one beef....those stock losi screws suck! I've got three of them on there right now that are going to be a real bugger to get out, and two of them have to come out for me to finish this build. And being flat heads, I'm going to end up messing up the plate that they go through.....lesson learned...

I understand that there is quite a lot of titanium material in them, but they are cast, so there isn't any material-loss due to machining, so are the FlexTek arms really worth the price you pay for them?

Couldn't tell you yet. I got them at a decent used price, so it wasn't that steep of an investment. But they did drive me to go with aluminum bulks and Ti hinge pin plates to hopefully make sure I didn't break something there.

Most definitely. This build looks great. Having a big honkin' lipo on top would clash with the layout you have with the motor and slipperential so low. This truck will handle so much better with lipos on either side of the chassis placed as low as possible. Just my opinion here from what I'm experiencing with my own XXL.

I agree...split that pack and put one battery on each side, not on top like that...it looks like an afterthought, not to mention destroys the look of the truck, and kills the center-of-gravity.

Looking good man!! Really good! I have that exact same pack on my LST2 and in the same spot. But until we're done building the chassis, there really isn't much I can do about moving it. I'm not able to cut stuff in my garage as I don't have a router. However, my buddy and I have considered going this route after seeing how awesome it worked for MisterCrash! I'm assuming that unless you can "make something yourself", that you can't buy something that will attach to the side of the chassis right?

Personally... it looks better with them on the side, and probably adds better balance. However.... My truck isn't front end heavy at all, and handles really really good. So, despite the way it looks, I'm pretty happy with how it handles. It can only handle better from here!

Savage Flux battery boxes, with a bit of ingenuity!

Exactly....

And there you go JT, we the people have spoken. Split those lipos and get some Flux boxes :lol:

And it shall be done!

Does anyone have a picture of Sav boxes mounted to their LST?

Bdebde did it on his. I think his build thread is in the Brushless section.